Hans Panel 56w triband led(65w total)>VS<Indagro 100 full spec induction(105w)+FIGHT!

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by chazbolin

Hang in there brother P. That cheese is like a finicky hot bitch you met at the bar that may need to be plied with more liquor and compliments. She better give it up this week though or it maybe she's looking over your shoulder at the dyke behind you. Nothing you can do about that one either.

That annubis main stalk looks like it's ready to handle some weight. One can only hope.

peace
I bent her down like the hoe she is.................took it well
I knew you'd wear her down. Well done! Now have her tell her friends!

Originally Posted by FranJan

Hey PSU, since I can't like you in your own thread for some reason, here's a big
for your work so far.

Question; does that induction put out any UVB? I got 2x 48" T8s that I'm thinking of fitting with 2x 36 watt 10.0 UVA/B bulbs and 2x40 watt Vita Light Natural light and adding that to the flowering room. But if inductions do UVB, well that could change my plans drastically. Good luck with the ladies (both types
)!
The current phosphor blend that's been in use for going on three years now has a process that allows a 3% UVB emission. They tried for more but the borasilicate glass gobbles up any UVB that the phosphors don't nab. 3% is all you're gonna get but the plants defense mechanism to UVB is increased trichome production and from what I've seen of the trike production it's as good as I've seen even when compared to when I was using a couple of 32 watt ZooMed reptile lamps. I don't use reptile lamps anymore.

Originally Posted by IlovePlants

This is why someone on the led forum needs a brix tester. It allows you a rough estimate of the amount of sugar being produced if you take enough samples. It would be easy to tell whether or not certain lighting enhanced the amount of sugars saturated in the tissues. Wine makers use brix testers to test and determine a host of things. They range from $89 to around $300 for a really nice digital version.

With two identical grows; one with 660nm reds, the other without the 660s but identical wattage to the first, you would be able to make a develop a theory. Take samples 1 week apart each week of growth, boom you would get a rough estimate of sugars produced over time. Incorporate CO2 after the baselines have been established and then monitor the brix again. This would allow you to see a difference in brix for a specific amount of CO2 ppm in the air. With enough testing anyone can make standards, and as long as the instrumentation and implementation are done correct you would have viable data.
Awesome post............can't rep you either friend.........I can't imagine the Brix levels indoors being anywhere near the outdoor levels.......but it would be a good indicator on which way we should be heading with this tech...........Can't take this White vs Monochromatic led shit anymore!!....ha
I gotta tip my hat to ILP for a thought provoking post and P you're dead on as to marching forth with a compass that shows magnetic north. Of course that compass will not show the deep valleys and high hills that must be climbed but it will set direction. That's what I used in my chat a few days ago with Darryl @ Inda-Gro when I threw some of the comments his way I was seeing on this forum and it led to this...

I firmed it up a bit more today with Darryl and for starters they already have an analog Brix Refractometer that gives readings from 0-32. They were getting setup to do a side by side for another project that involves experimenting on decreasing natural phytochrome switching by using 4 ea., LEDengin's 5 watt 730nm diodes powered off of a control circuit they built into the existing 420 driver. The diodes will get their 5 minutes of power off of rechargeable lithium-ion batteries so there won't be any need for additional timers or a power source once lights are off. I don't know if anyone here has seen this tried before but when they mentioned it to me it seemed obvious. So as long as this project was about to take off they're going to add in 10 ea., LEDengin's 5 watt 660nm diodes spread equally over the length and width of the 420 housing. That's as much as they were willing to share. You can see the in house garden (tomatoes, strawberries, peppers, etc) and tests they run on @ http://www.inda-gro.com/cam.html The partition across the 3 x 6 tray would indicate the ebb and flow garden will keep everything equal between the identical plants on both sides of the partition. You can see higher res images on the photo gallery they link under the notes.

To add the 660's (remember these are phosphor guys) took a bit of persuading by me and the fact that this thread and all of those on it convinced him that while knowing the contribution that 730nm plays in reducing Pfr switching is certainly important, the bottom line as growers is that we need to look for EVERY opportunity to increase yield/quality and operating efficiencies. While the existing phosphor blend has a peak at 650nm it falls off rapidly and only, per there own admissions, manages approximately 80% of the PAR Red regions. Since there isn't anything on the horizon that would let IG modify the phosphor and achieve a Red enhancement that peaked @ 660nm while emitting a 20nm 1/2 peak I suggested this test could prove considerably beneficial to our gardens. I convinced him to try this approach so we, and I mean this forum, can get an idea what the benefits this essential spectrum will contribute to our garden with what I was told today amounts to an extra 8% in radiant flux.

These lamps already flower quite nicely, so for him to entertain this I can say is directly proportional to the technical improvements and increasing interest he has seen in LED as a viable option to HID grow lamps. Anything that were to come from this test would be used as a supplement to the existing fixture so nothing would change that design. But if the improvements bear out than the diodes would be added in some type of housing that simply draped over the existing housing. BTW he had no problem sharing this with me and actually encouraged me to share it with this thread should anyone have any suggestions they wish to chime in with. This, in my humble opinion, has some potential. We shall see.

Originally Posted by Beefbisquit

Everything I've encountered either suggests that, or flat out states that, 3000-3200k neutral light contains the highest amount of PAR.
Not sure that you read that one right bro. But if it flat out (unequivocally) states 3-3.2K kelvin as the highest amount of PAR than you pretty can be sure the source is 'misguided'. I'm not saying plants might not grow under this range but think about it this way...LED's are categorized by wavelengths in nanometers. not kelvin If a 3-3.2K kelvin lamp was the ultimate in PAR for grow lamps and you believed that than you wouldn't even be in this forum or reading an LED thread.

.....we need more testing obviously....<=>...I still don't like a panel with any actinic leds in it IMO........



Hans's is way ahead ..Generally speakin' ...
I'm not familiar with the true definition of actinic but when referenced in kelvin for aquariums its 8000 kelvin and up. However if it's blue spectrum which you're loosely calling actinic and we're in the 420nm region that is a chlorophyll peak you would want to hit. Perhaps you can explain what I may have misinterpreted in you intial statement.

As to your early endorsement; 'Hans is way ahead...generally speaking' what is that based on? Nothing about this side by side is a true comparison of plant development when little things like the plants being different between the two lights are what we're observing. Han's panel is well made and the wattage is lower but to suggest that this panel is outperforming the 'competitor' is going to take me a few more bong hits to catch your drift. What the hell I'll load up and than come back reread it and see if it makes sense.....









Nope, still don't get it Mr. Stardust. But let it not be said I didn't try.

Luv ya brother. Your posts are for the most part truly entertaining and often times well above my pay grade.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
I think led`s are great for targeting wave lengths but it can get very very expensive to start adding more then a few colours to an led light

White led`s emit low levels of uv if any they are good lights and in high power say over 100w per chip they could become a viable and easy replacement for hps even more so with lighting for humans.

I feel that with leds its best to limit colours to get the very most you can out of them but induction lights and cfl`s are much much cheaper to buy so I think anything from a 20% cfl/induction to 50% cfl/induction lighting can be added to any led set up to get a full spectrum of light on your plants if you can spare the extra money if not then a simple red/blue set up has grown some really nice plants and lets face it when you start getting over 1g per watt with led 50watt of led is making you a hell of a lot of plant matter.
 

Beefbisquit

Well-Known Member
Not sure that you read that one right bro. But if it flat out (unequivocally) states 3-3.2K kelvin as the highest amount of PAR than you pretty can be sure the source is 'misguided'. I'm not saying plants might not grow under this range but think about it this way...LED's are categorized by wavelengths in nanometers. not kelvin If a 3-3.2K kelvin lamp was the ultimate in PAR for grow lamps and you believed that than you wouldn't even be in this forum or reading an LED thread.
I definitely don't like the way I wrote that, and to be honest I can't find the article that it was in so I'm just going to go ahead and retract that.

Colored LED's are measured in nm. White LED's are measured in kelvin like any other white light is.


Full spectrum light with supplemental lighting that peaks with the chlorophyl A and B peaks will grow better bud than too specific of a spectrum.
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
Full spectrum light with supplemental lighting that peaks with the chlorophyl A and B peaks will grow better bud than too specific of a spectrum.
I'll go one step further.
Keeping the wave form in the visible spectrum smooth and somewhat linear also contributes to superior plant photomorphology. Think sine wave, or section there of.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
See I think the key is to use peak spectrum lighting as a main sauce and supplement with full spectrum, when I run just red/blue the plant leaves look black when you start adding 3200k or 5700k you start seeing how much green is in them you start seeing all these other colours yes they look nice but anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs

Well if induction does just a good a job as uvb cfl`s then I should be able to cut 100 to 200w out of my grow by using just 1 200w induction instead of 200w to 600w of cfl it`s easy to go a bit over board with cfl`s lol
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
See I think the key is to use peak spectrum lighting as a main sauce and supplement with full spectrum, when I run just red/blue the plant leaves look black when you start adding 3200k or 5700k you start seeing how much green is in them you start seeing all these other colours yes they look nice but anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs
Well if induction does just a good a job as uvb cfl`s then I should be able to cut 100 to 200w out of my grow by using just 1 200w induction instead of 200w to 600w of cfl it`s easy to go a bit over board with cfl`s lol
Guh...Ehem......guh....
Nopnono.JPG
anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs


Well ,it absorbs green just fine...
A small percentage only ,is reflected...
What we actually can see ....
(given also that human vision is way sensitive to green wls ...We see them way..he-he..green... )...
But who said that this is what is reflected back at most ?
We just can't see what is most reflected...
We miss the best part of it ....



Oh...Notice the Relative (per nanometer )Quantum efficiency* ..

T2.medium.jpg
*The Quantum yield (quantum efficiency) is defined for photosynthesis
as:
&#8220;The number of photochemical products&#8221; [such as moles of CO2 assimilated or O2 evolved] divided by the &#8220;Total number of quanta absorbed
...Or else ...
"For a given number of quanta absorbed,the number of photochemical products that occur.."

I.e if for every 100 photons absorbed the max.(100% ) is 1 molecule of glucose produced...
( max .phorosynthetic quantum yield ),then for every wavelength :
RQE x 1 molecule glucose...

i.e 100 photons of 620 nm light produce 1 molecule of glucose...
For the same one molecule of glucose produced ,
plant needs to absorb 107.5 photons of 660 nm light... (.93 RQE )

1 watt red 620 is 620/119 = approx 5.2 umol /sec =>if for 1 umol of quanta (photons) max PS yield is 1 umol glucose ,then
1 Watt 620 nm = 5.2 x 1 (rqe ) x 1 (umol glucose ) = 5.2 umoles glucose.....(per sec )
1 Watt 660 nm is 660/119= 5.5 umol /sec
1 Watt 660 nm = 5.5 x .93 (rqe ) x 1 (umol glucose ) = 5.1 umoles glucose.....(per sec )
And the most efficient red is 620 by a small difference... (actual values of glucose produced are random )
The debate about reds 630-640-660...
I had enough...
Everyone has it's own thoughts...
For me,myshelf and I ,for the last time .....
Plants seem to like the 590-630 range,most...
No matter what...
Nothin' more to add ,there...Never again...



 

jubiare

Active Member
As to your early endorsement; 'Hans is way ahead...generally speaking' what is that based on? Nothing about this side by side is a true comparison of plant development when little things like the plants being different between the two lights are what we're observing. Han's panel is well made and the wattage is lower but to suggest that this panel is outperforming the 'competitor' is going to take me a few more bong hits to catch your drift. What the hell I'll load up and than come back reread it and see if it makes sense.....









Nope, still don't get it Mr. Stardust. But let it not be said I didn't try.

Luv ya brother. Your posts are for the most part truly entertaining and often times well above my pay grade.

Don't get so defensive about IG mate ... there is no need as sds was referring to the LED world more than anything. Who might get defensive is everybody else in the LED's world other than Hans! :o

I anyway think those technologies have to be looked at in a friendly way, they could go hand in hand quite nicely!

Because Chaz, if you really want a fight, between the two, in terms of g/w? Well you don't wanna see that one if you are so defensive about IG coz I am afraid it's most likely going to loose!

I think if you look at things like saving as much electricity for the most productive outcome, you can't beat leds. But let's give it's winter and it's damn cold, well I'd do with an IG right now actually, + leds.

_______________________________________________________________

hey Psua, so healthy girls with your known soil mix you are doing a super job. Keep it up!
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
See I think the key is to use peak spectrum lighting as a main sauce and supplement with full spectrum, when I run just red/blue the plant leaves look black when you start adding 3200k or 5700k you start seeing how much green is in them you start seeing all these other colours yes they look nice but anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs

Well if induction does just a good a job as uvb cfl`s then I should be able to cut 100 to 200w out of my grow by using just 1 200w induction instead of 200w to 600w of cfl it`s easy to go a bit over board with cfl`s lol
Very true. The hidden problem with all CFLs is mercury vapor, which makes handling & disposal a problem. Now that DIYers have figured out how to mix diodes to achieve Spectrum Continuum, the upfront expense of LEDs is more than offset by their longevity, especially for personal use growers or small ~ 12 plant providers
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Guh...Ehem......guh....
View attachment 2422666
anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs


Well ,it absorbs green just fine...
A small percentage only ,is reflected...
What we actually can see ....
(given also that human vision is way sensitive to green wls ...We see them way..he-he..green... )...
But who said that this is what is reflected back at most ?
We just can't see what is most reflected...
We miss the best part of it ....



Oh...Notice the Relative (per nanometer )Quantum efficiency* ..

View attachment 2422690
It is amazing how much harder it is to change someone's mind/opinion once info has been driven into their mostly empty heads.

With a computer, you simply uninstall the old/incorrect info and upload the new- not that 640-660 was ever old info that could be relied upon as fact.

One can buy led panels/ufos that are 100% 660. MAYBE, there are indoor plants that benefit from 660, ours just isn't one of them.

We have a similar issue over diode wattage
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Because Chaz, if you really want a fight, between the two, in terms of g/w? Well you don't wanna see that one if you are so defensive about IG coz I am afraid it's most likely going to loose!

I think if you look at things like saving as much electricity for the most productive outcome, you can't beat leds. But let's give it's winter and it's damn cold, well I'd do with an IG right now actually, + leds.
Hey Jubiare!

I love SDS posts, have likely read every one he's posted on RIU and have learned quite a bit from them. I was restating the obvious in that there is no basis of comparison between the two lights insofar as relative plant development and that was the statement he was making here. If you saw my comment as an instigation of SDS and a 'fight' between LED/EFDL technologies, than my subtle attempt at humor was unfortunately missed while you zeroed in on the practically indisputable fact that LED's will outperform IG in g/w.

So why even bother with a comparison? Because that's what we do my friend. If Ford told me my car can only make left hand turns and I believed it than I have not utilized all of my cars potential. If by accident I find by turning right I have an enhanced driving experience than I've defied convention and found a whole new reason to drive. As ILP put it so beautifully earlier;
Find your own truth and you will have a base of knowledge from which to build.




 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Com' on u now....

Don't take life too seriously ...
Nothin' ...
It's just a ride...

Another one... of the endless rides to come...
Oh ! Yeap...For all of us....


We are the One while .."dead"..
While when "alive" ,we're individual units....
Talkin' all the time ,that we should be a better humanity..more united...
Like ...One ?
Well ...Winter comes,summer is memoried and missed...
Summer comes....Winter is wished....

Being dead ,missing existance,but being the One...
While livin' ,dream of God and wish all to be One ..
Good day-Goodnight...
For ever and ever...
Again & again...
Trying to find out who I'm I ...
I the One.....


I'm just seeing other parts of the same thing ...

Do not take anythin' ,too seriously...
It won't last long,anyhow...

Our finger is stucked on the "reset " button....
For long time now ....

Oh...
Yeap...
Before even time ,came ( Saturn=Cronos =Chronos =Time )...
...

Light a spliff ...
Think of somethin' reaaallllyyyyy stupid....
Laugh with yourshelves...
..
Com'on now,guys...

It's nothin more than just a ride....
 

guod

Well-Known Member
Hans Panel 56w triband led(65w total)>VS<Indagro 100 full spec induction(105w)+FIGHT!

C8-)8-)L....

[video=youtube;I6nWpp18Npk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nWpp18Npk&amp;feature=related[/video]
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
It is amazing how much harder it is to change someone's mind/opinion once info has been driven into their mostly empty heads.

With a computer, you simply uninstall the old/incorrect info and upload the new- not that 640-660 was ever old info that could be relied upon as fact.

One can buy led panels/ufos that are 100% 660. MAYBE, there are indoor plants that benefit from 660, ours just isn't one of them.

We have a similar issue over diode wattage
I`ve seen an all 630nm led grow and it looked way better then you would think it would, some strains like 660nm more then 630nm my guess is that they need the 660nm to trigger flowering or something

Not seen an all 660nm grow yet but I`m sure someone could manage it just have to find a strain that responds well to it.


Oh wow so it turns out green is not useless

Hang on is there any bandwidths that will cause a plant to still grow but not mess up it`s flowering cycle ? I mean could green light instead of no light produce bigger yields ?


@stardust thanks for all the info man.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Well it ain't weed but it could prove interesting nonetheless. brix levels are posted on the individual images in the gallery starting from yesterday. Looks like the 660 add about 30 uMoles based on the readings I see. Too nice of a setup to not have a kush run going but I guess it is the office garden.

https://picasaweb.google.com/117165142682869295633/LiveStreamGarden#slideshow/5815913722020878530

garden notes @ http://www.inda-gro.com/cam.html

And on another note: Yesterday another voice was silenced in the fight against the world governments corrupt and failed drug policies. This my friends remains the real 'FIGHT'.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0z0s9AD18bc


God rest your soul Maria Santos Gorrostieta. You were a true warrior.
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
Hey psuagro I see you will not grow without 660nm , well I am wondering what is the H350 Kessil nm ? is it a mixture of 660nm and something else?

Whatever it is, I have made a discovery ,.. well not 100% sure yet but it seems to me like the plants that are being blast side ways by my kessil tend to turn purple, regardless of genetic, .. sometimes I ll have a branch in the way of the kessil, all purple, while the branch next to it on the same plant simply lush green.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
".....we need more testing obviously....<=>...I still don't like a panel with any actinic leds in it IMO........

:-P

Hans's is way ahead ..Generally speakin' ...

Well..I like most the light emitted ,when electons ,take a " dive" into chaos....
Light by Electrons Divin'.....
(or maybe Less Electricity,Dude....Lean Electron Dank ? ..Ha-ha-ha...)

Super work there,brother...
I disagree.............but your entitled to your opinion...........Philips has been doing some great case studies in holland's ag industry for some time now, according to a rep the greatest fruit/bloom increase per watt consumed with their "green power line" led was with red/deep red/blue led light "recipe"

http://www.lighting.philips.co.uk/pwc_li/main/shared/assets/downloads/pdf/horticulture/leaflets/general-booklet-philips-led-lighting-in-horticulture-EU.pdf

ill try to find a better link ......And yes most of the cases where for supplementation to SUNLIGHT..

Looking good psu. Def more sexy bitches this time around.

I just ordered an apollo 10 and for whites im using per module 2 5000k, 2 4200k, 1 10,000k and no blue leds at all. This light is just for flower

When I order the ones for veg. Im probably going to use 1 blue 460, 4 5000k, 4 6500k.

Reds of course for the rest.
yes better bitches this time.......as ledmania/guod said too many whites in your modules===pushing the driver to it's limits/ i think

How long did it take you to find that:P.........good call

I knew you'd wear her down. Well done! Now have her tell her friends!



The current phosphor blend that's been in use for going on three years now has a process that allows a 3% UVB emission. They tried for more but the borasilicate glass gobbles up any UVB that the phosphors don't nab. 3% is all you're gonna get but the plants defense mechanism to UVB is increased trichome production and from what I've seen of the trike production it's as good as I've seen even when compared to when I was using a couple of 32 watt ZooMed reptile lamps. I don't use reptile lamps anymore.





I gotta tip my hat to ILP for a thought provoking post and P you're dead on as to marching forth with a compass that shows magnetic north. Of course that compass will not show the deep valleys and high hills that must be climbed but it will set direction. That's what I used in my chat a few days ago with Darryl @ Inda-Gro when I threw some of the comments his way I was seeing on this forum and it led to this...

I firmed it up a bit more today with Darryl and for starters they already have an analog Brix Refractometer that gives readings from 0-32. They were getting setup to do a side by side for another project that involves experimenting on decreasing natural phytochrome switching by using 4 ea., LEDengin's 5 watt 730nm diodes powered off of a control circuit they built into the existing 420 driver. The diodes will get their 5 minutes of power off of rechargeable lithium-ion batteries so there won't be any need for additional timers or a power source once lights are off. I don't know if anyone here has seen this tried before but when they mentioned it to me it seemed obvious. So as long as this project was about to take off they're going to add in 10 ea., LEDengin's 5 watt 660nm diodes spread equally over the length and width of the 420 housing. That's as much as they were willing to share. You can see the in house garden (tomatoes, strawberries, peppers, etc) and tests they run on @ http://www.inda-gro.com/cam.html The partition across the 3 x 6 tray would indicate the ebb and flow garden will keep everything equal between the identical plants on both sides of the partition. You can see higher res images on the photo gallery they link under the notes.

To add the 660's (remember these are phosphor guys) took a bit of persuading by me and the fact that this thread and all of those on it convinced him that while knowing the contribution that 730nm plays in reducing Pfr switching is certainly important, the bottom line as growers is that we need to look for EVERY opportunity to increase yield/quality and operating efficiencies. While the existing phosphor blend has a peak at 650nm it falls off rapidly and only, per there own admissions, manages approximately 80% of the PAR Red regions. Since there isn't anything on the horizon that would let IG modify the phosphor and achieve a Red enhancement that peaked @ 660nm while emitting a 20nm 1/2 peak I suggested this test could prove considerably beneficial to our gardens. I convinced him to try this approach so we, and I mean this forum, can get an idea what the benefits this essential spectrum will contribute to our garden with what I was told today amounts to an extra 8% in radiant flux.

These lamps already flower quite nicely, so for him to entertain this I can say is directly proportional to the technical improvements and increasing interest he has seen in LED as a viable option to HID grow lamps. Anything that were to come from this test would be used as a supplement to the existing fixture so nothing would change that design. But if the improvements bear out than the diodes would be added in some type of housing that simply draped over the existing housing. BTW he had no problem sharing this with me and actually encouraged me to share it with this thread should anyone have any suggestions they wish to chime in with. This, in my humble opinion, has some potential. We shall see.



Not sure that you read that one right bro. But if it flat out (unequivocally) states 3-3.2K kelvin as the highest amount of PAR than you pretty can be sure the source is 'misguided'. I'm not saying plants might not grow under this range but think about it this way...LED's are categorized by wavelengths in nanometers. not kelvin If a 3-3.2K kelvin lamp was the ultimate in PAR for grow lamps and you believed that than you wouldn't even be in this forum or reading an LED thread.



I'm not familiar with the true definition of actinic but when referenced in kelvin for aquariums its 8000 kelvin and up. However if it's blue spectrum which you're loosely calling actinic and we're in the 420nm region that is a chlorophyll peak you would want to hit. Perhaps you can explain what I may have misinterpreted in you intial statement.

As to your early endorsement; 'Hans is way ahead...generally speaking' what is that based on? Nothing about this side by side is a true comparison of plant development when little things like the plants being different between the two lights are what we're observing. Han's panel is well made and the wattage is lower but to suggest that this panel is outperforming the 'competitor' is going to take me a few more bong hits to catch your drift. What the hell I'll load up and than come back reread it and see if it makes sense.....









Nope, still don't get it Mr. Stardust. But let it not be said I didn't try.

Luv ya brother. Your posts are for the most part truly entertaining and often times well above my pay grade.
Still don't know how to quote a specific part ^^^^.......sounds like the right progression for Inda-gro adding some deep red leds to the panel=====shhh don't tell SDS

I think led`s are great for targeting wave lengths but it can get very very expensive to start adding more then a few colours to an led light

White led`s emit low levels of uv if any they are good lights and in high power say over 100w per chip they could become a viable and easy replacement for hps even more so with lighting for humans.

I feel that with leds its best to limit colours to get the very most you can out of them but induction lights and cfl`s are much much cheaper to buy so I think anything from a 20% cfl/induction to 50% cfl/induction lighting can be added to any led set up to get a full spectrum of light on your plants if you can spare the extra money if not then a simple red/blue set up has grown some really nice plants and lets face it when you start getting over 1g per watt with led 50watt of led is making you a hell of a lot of plant matter.
I wouldn't waste my time with CFL's ......Induction/led all the way .........set it and forget it for five+ years

I'll go one step further.
Keeping the wave form in the visible spectrum smooth and somewhat linear also contributes to superior plant photomorphology. Think sine wave, or section there of.
perfect........

See I think the key is to use peak spectrum lighting as a main sauce and supplement with full spectrum, when I run just red/blue the plant leaves look black when you start adding 3200k or 5700k you start seeing how much green is in them you start seeing all these other colours yes they look nice but anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs

Well if induction does just a good a job as uvb cfl`s then I should be able to cut 100 to 200w out of my grow by using just 1 200w induction instead of 200w to 600w of cfl it`s easy to go a bit over board with cfl`s lol
HMMMMMMMMM;-)........

Guh...Ehem......guh....
View attachment 2422666
anything the plant reflects is not being used as well as things it absorbs


Well ,it absorbs green just fine...
A small percentage only ,is reflected...
What we actually can see ....
(given also that human vision is way sensitive to green wls ...We see them way..he-he..green... )...
But who said that this is what is reflected back at most ?
We just can't see what is most reflected...
We miss the best part of it ....



Oh...Notice the Relative (per nanometer )Quantum efficiency* ..

View attachment 2422690
Always bringing the good info brother(mostly:p)

Shit.....more people to see my crappy little grow.


Don't get so defensive about IG mate ... there is no need as sds was referring to the LED world more than anything. Who might get defensive is everybody else in the LED's world other than Hans! :o

I anyway think those technologies have to be looked at in a friendly way, they could go hand in hand quite nicely!

Because Chaz, if you really want a fight, between the two, in terms of g/w? Well you don't wanna see that one if you are so defensive about IG coz I am afraid it's most likely going to loose!

I think if you look at things like saving as much electricity for the most productive outcome, you can't beat leds. But let's give it's winter and it's damn cold, well I'd do with an IG right now actually, + leds.

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hey Psua, so healthy girls with your known soil mix you are doing a super job. Keep it up!
I think the induction will surprise some people in the end...the flowering rate of the anubis girls is showing me some favorable traits....will see......yep soil/perlite mix, always easy growing...thanks Jubi

Very true. The hidden problem with all CFLs is mercury vapor, which makes handling & disposal a problem. Now that DIYers have figured out how to mix diodes to achieve Spectrum Continuum, the upfront expense of LEDs is more than offset by their longevity, especially for personal use growers or small ~ 12 plant providers
Brother PET their is way more mercury in tuna/salmon which I eat regularly:O

Subbed...
Rock on!:twisted:
How are your Hans panels doing????????.........glad to see you again

Well it ain't weed but it could prove interesting nonetheless. brix levels are posted on the individual images in the gallery starting from yesterday. Looks like the 660 add about 30 uMoles based on the readings I see. Too nice of a setup to not have a kush run going but I guess it is the office garden.

https://picasaweb.google.com/117165142682869295633/LiveStreamGarden#slideshow/5815913722020878530

garden notes @ http://www.inda-gro.com/cam.html

And on another note: Yesterday another voice was silenced in the fight against the world governments corrupt and failed drug policies. This my friends remains the real 'FIGHT'.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0z0s9AD18bc


God rest your soul Maria Santos Gorrostieta. You were a true warrior.
Real fucking shame..........let us not forget that money is being made on BOTH sides of the border in this drug war

Psu how you diggin those uprising nutes...? Pun intended
Well you know I don't generally like these premium ferts/additives and their mostly bs claims......but the uprising line is actually affordable at recommended rates/ easy to use and the results have been surprising this far w no defs or burns........great call on this shit Hyroot.

Oh and I finally have found a powdered beni bac that I like http://www.promixpur.com/ when I run out of the liquid stuff

Hey psuagro I see you will not grow without 660nm , well I am wondering what is the H350 Kessil nm ? is it a mixture of 660nm and something else?

Whatever it is, I have made a discovery ,.. well not 100% sure yet but it seems to me like the plants that are being blast side ways by my kessil tend to turn purple, regardless of genetic, .. sometimes I ll have a branch in the way of the kessil, all purple, while the branch next to it on the same plant simply lush green.
No Idea, kessil won't share their exact specs............I did notice that when I went above 50/50 with my Florasuns/6400k bulbs the leaves tended to darken significantly....it's very possible endo


ILP's cheesedream @ 42 days since germ under the Hans led panel(65watts):

015.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg......she's just chugging along/ not giving me any problems except her smell.............large ionizer not liking the sealed room again/ keeps shutting off........I'm done with it

PS's anubis girls @ 37 days since germ under the Inda-gro par 100 (105 watts):

016.jpg010.jpg011.jpg012.jpg013.jpg014.jpg .....very well behaved also....where the fuck was this vigor during veg girls??........rocketing along.


001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg009.jpg017.jpg..12th day of 13/11..............I may be chopping the anubis girls in less than 5 weeks from now.......crazy shit.............be safe and happy growing
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Still don't know how to quote a specific part ^^^^.......sounds like the right progression for Inda-gro adding some deep red leds to the panel=====shhh don't tell SDS
I found the quote tab on the top of the toolbar next to 'insert video'. When you click it you get this: [QUTE][/QUTE] which (I took the O out so it would post here) lets you set whatever text you copy and paste inside it. Hope that helps. It took me forever to figure out how to do it but like most things in life it was right in front of me the whole time. Hey if SDS can get philosophical so can I. And don't worry I won't tell him I've gone over to the other side. At least not yet.

Hey that cheese is flowering. I guess patience is a virtue after all. Congrats!

View attachment 2424642

I found this to be an intriguing image in the way the leaf orientation is so dramatically different between the two lights. The annubis are reaching up towards the IG and the cheese under the Hans have remained for the most part flat. Perhaps it's strain related. Any thoughts?
 
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