Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical

sherriberry

New Member
if you want to see my evolution of ideas and get a TON of random extremely useful info, go to this other thread...

my personal thread is here, and i will be continuing my ideas over there and get out of heaths way even tho it appears he has vanished

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/266935-new-nft-nutrient-film-technique.html

and we also chat about aero stuff here, every person on this thread is a jedi master, so before you even think about correcting one of them, superglue your fingers together and just read it again, because chances are, they are right

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/254876-my-true-hp-aero-plug-57.html
 

laughingduck

Well-Known Member
Sherriberry: check this
NCC National controls corporation
solid state timer
model CKK-3600-461
range 36-3600 sec.

This is the timer i use, it requires an 8 pin socket to connect to it, but it works awsome for me.
 

Malenki

Well-Known Member
Your grows awesome man. I am finnally in the thread so now no more looking 30 minutes to show a friend.
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
I can not say what has left a more lasting impression on my mind. The grow.... or the thread. I'm inspired... going to make a smaller version in my 2' x 3' closet. I'll make my own thread for it... instead of using this as my grow journal (wink wink).

Greenyield... at first I thought ill of you. But I realized what kind of guy you were. The kind who wants to get shit done. Love your build. Props.

Fatman... love the way you put down people without college degrees. Engineers = Thinking leaders. Contractors/ Drivers = Idiot Sheep. I also love you don't accept PM's. Tired of people telling you similar things I guess.

EDIT: LOL... it gets better... you even tell people they complain about you wrong. (post 770)

Sherriberry... I have been around RIU for about a year now... and you win the award for most completely jacked thread. I know you have your reasons about everyone else jacking it... but you win. And that's for real. And seriously... what is with hitting 'Enter' after every fragment sentence. Are you taking vertical growing to the forums... vertical posting, haha.

And yes... I admit I am behaving no better than most... adding my drivel to the pile already here. It's like peer pressure or something.

Heath... Thank you so much for sharing this with the world.
 
Yes this is a great thread and i'll be building one of these and then several more when I get its tics worked out.

My main question is that when I look at descriptions on hydro nutes I see that they say for systems that use water/nutes once and then drain away. But this system and the one I used years ago to grow tomato's uses a system that runs 24/7.

So do I just use say AN hydro nutes and just run them 24/7.

I'll be putting femmed autoflowers in the capsule.

MLB
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
and we also chat about aero stuff here, every person on this thread is a jedi master, so before you even think about correcting one of them, superglue your fingers together and just read it again, because chances are, they are right

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/254876-my-true-hp-aero-plug-57.html
They are also rude and cocky as hell...:lol:

but the thread has a lot of good info... if you do not mind being freely insulted for asking a simple question...:lol::clap:
 

tree farmer

Well-Known Member
They are also rude and cocky as hell...:lol:

but the thread has a lot of good info... if you do not mind being freely insulted for asking a simple question...:lol::clap:

im sorry if you feel insulted. i have no control over what people post in my thread any more than you do in your threads. i have never insulted or been rude to anyone. i appriciate any and all info in the thread in regards to what the threads subject is about. i try to provide the most accurate and up to date info on a subject that has very little info available and welcome anyones input that cares to contribute.
 

CaptainPointless

Well-Known Member
Things seem to have got a little bit heated in here :fire:

chill out and look at my latest find, its different to say the least! Heath's Dizzy !!!
I love your FTV setup Heath! Fantastic way to utilize the maximum sq. footage available. I'm actually trying to come up with a way to do the same basic thing in a very tight area (24x24x60) -- I'm pretty well on my way with the design.

I did want to let you know, though, that your link isn't working (unless it just started to since I began this post). Once it is fixed, I'm looking forward to checking it out!

EDIT: Thanks for fixing the link, Heath! Checking it out now!
 

Heath Robinson

Well-Known Member
Hi CaptainPointless thanks for the heads up, and good luck with your vertical if you manage to get it up and running and make a thread, point me in the right direction :bigjoint:


heath
 

Dillinger

Member
Heath,

Welcome back! There is something about your system I really do not understand. How do you manage the water in the pipes with such a small reservoir? I do not believe the res will hold all of the water in the pipes and I am wondering how you manage water changes, system drain, etc. I know you have a larger res in addition to the res that is part of the system. Can you please talk a little bit about the dual reservoirs and how you manage the water in the system?
 

macster

Member
does anyone know, in order to make an inside measurement of 48" how big you cut each side of the octagon.Because I'm going with a1000 watt bulb I want an inside measurement of 54 ".
I figure 2 pie r is the formula or 2x3.14x27=170 inch divided by 8 (# of sides) = 21.25 inches
Does this make sense. Chime in anyone in the know
 

fatman7574

New Member
This link will tell you the lengths of each side of a true octagon if there were no 45 degree fittings at each joint. You will need to measure your 45 degree fittings to see how much to shorten the straight sections to make up for the fittings. You need only plug in one measurement and the chart will fill in the other measurements. If you plug in an inside dimension it would work best. The graphics should show you all you need to know except how much to shorten for the fittings.

http://buster2058.netfirms.com/octagon/calc/octagon_layout_calc.htm
 

Heath Robinson

Well-Known Member
Dillinger The small rez is just used as an auto top up, its there simply to replace the water used by the plants and evaporation. When I drain the system it runs into the small rez which in turn overflows into a drain. If I didnt have a drain handy, I would use a rez big enough to hold all the water in the system.
hope that helps.

Heath
 

sherriberry

New Member
if anyone is thinking about doing this with sprayers, it wont be better than heaths setup because the roots will still be under water if you have the water running all the time.

however...

bioballs... the things that are blue and have 100 drip points, you see them in fish tank filters... they are plastic balls.

If i were to do this setup using the tube as heath did.

i would fill it with bioballs, and have a sprayer come in from the top fo the pipe about once every foot.

I would not have much water at all flowing in the tube... just the tiniest trickly possible.

I would not have the dams.

Just put the sprayers on a cap timer, and have them fire once every 15 min or so.

You will be amazed at how the roots expand through the bioballs... its like having soil everywhere... but no soil.

you can get the bioballs in bulk off ebay or better yet, alibaba and buy them from the manufacturer.




Not cracking on heaths setup... just giving a tip for someone who is determined to add sprayers to it... if you are going to go through the trouble, make it worth your while... get rid of the deep water and allow the roots to branch out like crazy through the bioballs.

Its like hydroton but way better
 

sherriberry

New Member
better than the sprayers would be if you had a lazer cut aeration hose... snake all the way down the tube, and lays on top of the bio balls.

And then add water pressure to the aeration tube once every so often, or have it on constant but at a trickle...

at that point, you wouldnt need the spiral... you could have the tube that heath made... just go in a perfect ring, and have a vertical pipe come down through all the rings, back down to the res.

Just give each ring a slight slight tilt so that the vertical drain pipe is at the lowest point of the rings tilt.

Then you could have 4 aeration hoses, one for each ring.

It would be a lot simpler to build if it was in rings as well.

The only catch is, you have to have sprayers or some sort of feed hose in each ring of tube.... but i bet its gotta be easier to build than figuring out the geometry and dams in heaths system.

Just some ideas for anyone who wants to try
 

sherriberry

New Member
and better yet, you could make them C's instead of complete rings... and that way you can have an entry point..


and jsut have a vertical pipe go down through all the C's.

-----C -----C ----C -----C

Lame diagram, but best i can do... the dead ends of the C would just have endcaps on them, and the middle of the C would be the low point in the pipe, and thats where the vertical comes down through all 4 or 5 or 6 C's

You could still do it heaths way do... only catch is, youd have to have a higher volume pumpe, and have it split 8 ways, and go to the endcaps of each C, so 2 feed lines per C

And that would give you your door... and if you made it narrow enough, the plants would bush out and bridge the gap, but you could push them out of the way when you come and go.


Id use an aeration hose around the C tho personally, and hang it from the roof of the pipe, and if you can afford it, pack the thing with bioballs.

Aero is uselss in such small confines... the bioballs with a lazer cut drip aeration hose ... on a timer, 10 min off, 30 sec on.. would beat hp aero in such tight confines i bet.
 

greenyield

Well-Known Member
and better yet, you could make them C's instead of complete rings... and that way you can have an entry point..


and jsut have a vertical pipe go down through all the C's.

-----C -----C ----C -----C

Lame diagram, but best i can do... the dead ends of the C would just have endcaps on them, and the middle of the C would be the low point in the pipe, and thats where the vertical comes down through all 4 or 5 or 6 C's

You could still do it heaths way do... only catch is, youd have to have a higher volume pumpe, and have it split 8 ways, and go to the endcaps of each C, so 2 feed lines per C

And that would give you your door... and if you made it narrow enough, the plants would bush out and bridge the gap, but you could push them out of the way when you come and go.


Id use an aeration hose around the C tho personally, and hang it from the roof of the pipe, and if you can afford it, pack the thing with bioballs.

Aero is uselss in such small confines... the bioballs with a lazer cut drip aeration hose ... on a timer, 10 min off, 30 sec on.. would beat hp aero in such tight confines i bet.
i like the idea of using two C shaped sections, with 2 pumps and 2 res, one for each side. it would be kind of like the coliseum. would make things easier for pruning. i may dig out me old system for another try at it afterall.
i think heath is prety cool about other people bouncing ideas around on here.
he has set the bar on the vertical tube grow and got everyone talking about going vertical.
heath has been growing vertical for at least 4 years so i think he knows what works and what doesnt.

right, i fished out my old pipes and put them in a half Decagon and thought i would be able to stack them 8 pipes high and have two sets of 8 high to make a cheap coliseum shaped system but its a no goer.
you would have to use 2x 90 degree bends to connect them for continuous flow which would leave a gap about 18" between pipes.
you could use a manifold to feed each pipe seperately but its too much for me.

stick to heaths plans.
 

Attachments

sherriberry

New Member
yeah, first off i meant for the C to be 7 out of 8 sides.

second, the 90 degree bends? you lost me?

I was planning on having a CROSS PIPE in the middle of the C

And this cross pipe, is simply a vertical pipe coming down and crossing through all the c's


Every C has a fused endcap at the end of it.

My point was, this would be ideal for sprayers... if someone wanted to use sprayers...

because at that point... you dont want the deep water in the tubes...

and the problem if you have the spiral is that the sprayer runoff water would compound by the bottom level, youd have all runoff from ALL sprayers up the whole spiral.

vs, if you have a vertical pipe bisect all the c's on side 4.

(there would be 7 sides, side 3 or 4 would be where the cross pipe, or x pipe would be)

and have that veritcal come down on side 4, and have all the c's with a slight tilt to bring all the water back to that cross pipe...

theres where you wouldnt have to worry about water compounding and getting deep by the bottom level.

roots have tons of air... get sprayed every 7 min, plants would do better... period.

Add the blue bio balls in there... plants would do even better.

THIS IS FOR IF YOU WANT TO HAVE AN EXIT TO SQUEEZE THROUGH TO GET IN AND OUT, AND IF YOU WANT TO USE SPRAYERS

IT IS NOT A BAD IDEA

IT IS A BETTER IDEA TO MAKE PLANTS GROW FASTER AND HAVE MORE AIR AVAILIBLE TO THE ROOTS AND BE ABLE TO ENTER YOUR ROOM WITH EASE.

ONLY 1 PUMP AND 1 RES ARE NEEDED

IT CAN BE ADDED ONTO BY ADDING ANOTHER LEVEL AT ANY TIME DURING THE GROW... THE SPIRAL WOULD BE A NIGHTMARE TO ADD ANOTHER LEVEL ON DURING A GROW.

SPRAYERS COME IN FROM THE BACKSIDE OF THE PIPES, TO AVOID LIGHT AND HOSES STAY COOL, AND CAN BE MAINTINANCED FROM OUTSIDE THE CIRCLE IF NEED BE. RES CAN BE IN COOLER AIR, OUTSIDE THE GROW CIRCLE, AND YOU CAN PANDA WRAP THE WHOLE CIRCLE, MAKE IT AIR TIGHT, LET THE TEMPS GO UP TO 85+, GET MAX YEILD, AND KEEP YOUR RES OUT BEHIND THE CIRCLE, ADD A CHILLER IF NEED BE, AND DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE WATER IS NOT IN THE CIRCLE AT ALL TIMES, SPIRALING, WARMING UP, YOU CAN KEEP THE RES TEMPS LOW BECAUSE JUST A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER IS SPAYED INTO THE PIPES AT A TIME, AND MOST IS ABSORBED...

VERY LITTLE RUNNOFF NEEDED IF DIALED IN CORRECTLY.... THIS KEEP THE RES COOL, AND ALLOWS PLANTS TO ABSORB AND BREATH MOST POSSIBLE AIR BETWEEN SPAYS

HOPE THIS HELPS, PLEASE DONT TURN MY IDEA INTO A DIFFEENT IDEA AND SAY IT SUCKS

BUT I UNDERSTAND I SHOULD HAVE BEEN MORE CLEAR IN MY FIRST EXPLAINATION.

SORRY
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
I thought this was appropriate...:lol::clap:

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction." Albert Einstein.
 
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