Help Please! Deficiency or Rust Disease?!

1weedz4

1weedz4

Well-Known Member
Hey dudes,

I posted a previous thread about some issues I'm having and we came to the conclusion that this is a Calcium deficiency. But now I'm thinking it's not. I upped the dosage on the CalMag and have not gotten any results.

This is the first time I have mixed FFOF and Happy Frog. Usually I just stick with FFOF and perlite and have great results.

Please take a look at the pics I took. Can anyone help me out on this? Is it a deficiency or RUST disease. The leaves are turning yellow with dark spots and some are curling inward now.

Thank you.
 

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1weedz4 said:
Hey dudes,

I posted a previous thread about some issues
Click to expand...

You have a few possible problems here in my book...

A virus of some sort but unlikely, some viral infections show like a K def, also do you have any purple stems?
You simply have the wrong Ph at the soil level, its too high... forget run off you need to do a soup test 1:1.5 extraction method?
I'd say your Ph is marginally high for these strains and locking out the Potassium or you are feeding excess calcium trying to fix the problem but making it worse by locking out the K as a result?
Stop the Calmag right now it won't kill it but a K lockout will cause mayhem in all sorts of manner during flower.

I would do a soil Ph test using the soup method as instructed below before you do anything!
The most reliable way of measuring the nutrients present in the potting mix is to use the 1:1.5 extraction method, which
can be used to determine the root environment’s EC and pH. The EC and the pH of the drainage water will normally vary
because potting mix is capable of holding back a number of elements or even refusing them. It is best to carry out a
1:1.5 analysis after three to five weeks. The easiest way to make this analysis is to follow the plan given below step by step:
1. Take a potting mix sample. This can be done with a ground drill or a spoon. Take the potting mix from a large number
of different places to ensure that the sample is representative.
2. Put the sample in a bowl and determine if it is moist enough. This is done by squeezing some potting mix in your hand; if
moisture comes out it is OK. To increase the sample’s moisture content add distilled water. Mix the potting mix well after
adding water.
3. Take a 250ml measuring jug and fill it with 150ml of distilled water. Add potting mix to bring it to 250ml, mix it well and
leave it for at least 2 hours.
4. Mix it well once again and measure the pH. Filter the mixture that you now have and measure the EC. Target values for
the EC are between 1.1 and 1.3 and for the pH between 5.8 and 6.2.

Curled up leaves...?

Maybe incidental but if the whole plant balance is out of synch they could be just a side sympton as in suffering heat, dryness, inadequate transpiration, stress and rolling in to protect the central area from dying. Theres a word for all this but its like for the better good of the whole plants health, get that soil test done and we can look at a solution.

Good luck

 
Jimmy Sparkle said:
Wow, I would NEVER Grow again if I overcomplicated things this much.
Click to expand...
Don't complicate it then, just keep it simple like the basic soil test recommended by 99% of horticultural manuals! Its written out for you in a step by step tutorial above, I like to make things eeeeasssy man :bigjoint:
 
Thanks! I have been feeding them CalMag. Along with:

Soil:
Happy Frog & Ocean Forest mix (never mixed for flowering before but had to this time)

Nutrients:
Pure Blend
Sugaree Carbs
Pure Blend Pro
CalMag
Some SuperThrive beginning stages

PH 6.8-7.0
Runoff 6.4-6.5
 
1weedz4 said:
Thanks! I have been feeding them CalMag. Along with:

Soil:
Happy Frog & Ocean Forest mix (never mixed for flowering before but had to this time)

Nutrients:
Pure Blend
Sugaree Carbs
Pure Blend Pro
CalMag
Some SuperThrive beginning stages

PH 6.8-7.0
Runoff 6.4-6.5
Click to expand...
OK, now do you know the ppm, NPK, and feed intervals for that mix?
 
It's not hot in the room. These are under 4k with a 24k BTU split system Temps stay perfect 75/42.

PPM last feed read 700. NPK with all nutrients not sure, feeding is once a week, soil.
 
1weedz4 said:
I just tested the soil PH and it was 7.
Click to expand...
If you don't want to do a proper soil test and you're happy its Ph7 drop the CALMAG and start feeding her at Ph 6 you're not organic so forget microbes and that other shite they go on about killing with low Ph water, soils out the window man get a small coco n drip system next time imo...
1weedz4 said:
It's not hot in the room. These are under 4k with a 24k BTU split system Temps stay perfect 75/42.

PPM last feed read 700. NPK with all nutrients not sure, feeding is once a week, soil.
Click to expand...
Mate trust me if thats not fungal/viral thats either just too high on the Ph for what she wants or your Cal is too high, simply drop the soil to Ph6.2 or stop the calmag and keep feeding as normal. Your PPM is sound @700ppm assuming its a balanced ratio that is... 700ppm of PK for example isn't cool is it?
 
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