Help with canna base nutes an ec

Sneakysneaky

New Member
Basicly I'm using canna aqua base nutes for veg and flower. I'm growing in rdwc system and this is my first grow in it. (Been doing soil for years) I've been using aqua vega a and b, cannazyme and rizotonic with a ec of 1.5. I put them to flower last Wednesday (12/12) added Buddhas tree pk 9/18 and Buddhas tree boost at the measurement stated on the back of the bottle which brought my ec up to 2.0. Today I noticed the tell tale signs of over feeding. The tips of the leafs started browning not a lot but just caught it. So I'm now flushing with ph water. So I've drained my res down and filled it again with aqua Flores a and b, cannazyme with a ec of 1.6 but when I've added the pk and boost my ec has gone up to 2.2. I'm not going to fill my system with it untill I've flushed them but I'm worried that filling with pots with an ec higher than what I've already drained is going to cause more over feeding problems. Can anyone tell me what do I take my ec readings on is it just base nutes only (like I've been told) or is it a combined base booster and pk and if so how do I work out the right mix... Cheers
 

Twitch

Well-Known Member
the pk is what is jacking up your EC, i am not familiar with the buddhas tree pk, but i am familiar with canna and the cannas pk 13/14 jacks up the ppm
 

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
Hey,,
well im not rdwc but am using the aqua (zym and rhizo,)line in coco, and have used in recirc hydro...

not with the budda but once again with the canna pk13/14.

well i guess it depends on how you want to use your pk supplement. If you follow cannas idea, or just use it throughout.. Either way maybe dont use the pk supplement at full strenght. When i use the pk13/14 at half dose it raises the e.c. By about 0.2, ontop of my base. So for the first week of use i drop my e.c. Of the aqua vega base(im using vega in flower as its coco and flores has way to much K for me i think,, anyway) by the predicted 0.2 and then raise it to the desired level. So if i wanna feed at ec 1.0 i make my base up to 0.8 then add the pk supplement to get me to 1.0. If you get me. Im also doing that with cal max for the coco but thats for another time..

reading what you say again, to begin with i would be using my e.c. Meter constantly, hence knowing what will give me different values. Eitherway just always measure at the end after you adjust ph, but do it all the way through the mixing process for more confidence.

But yeah maybe just use half or a quater of the budda. And stick with the full base if its working.. Or try drop the ec and contiue..

sorry for the long winded ness.. And if im not much help....

. Take it easy
 

Sneakysneaky

New Member
Yep I understand what your saying but does any one know what I should sacrifice is it the base or the boost and pk or just boost or just pk. I've just drained and refilled my res and did exactly the same. I end up draining a little of the 2.2 ec mixed nute solution and topping back up to get the ec down. Also my ec starts to drop a few days into it being fed to the plants and rises again after a week when I'm due to cange. So I start of at 1.7 say and it will drop to 1.5-1.6 three or four days in the go up to 1.8 after 7 days.. Any ideas??
 

NorthofEngland

Well-Known Member
Go back to AQUA VEGA A/B, CAANZYM and RHIZO
LATER, reduce your overall EC if you want to add PK, SO the total is a little lower
2.0 is high EC.

I use exactly the same nutes in a 140lt Wilma system

and don't change to AQUA FLORE
THE n p k ratio is weird!!!
 

Sneakysneaky

New Member
So what ec/ppm do people run at different times of the cycle?? The man in my local shop told me 1 to do ec of nutes on top of ec of tap water. Eg tap water is 0.6 ec and I want my nutes to be 1.4 I combine the two and set at 2.0 but I can't belive that and 2 he told me to do set my ec on base nutes only and add pk and boost as the bottle says which I also don't belive... I'm thinking About throwing this dwc system away and going back to soil but have herd it can make the ladies produce a lot more.
 

machead

Well-Known Member
Canna grow adds them together so if want it at 1.6 EC that is your water as well.

If running DWC I'd shoot for 1.2 an go from there. Might hit 1.6 towards end less is more
 

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
Hey, well i start at around o.6 ec, and work up and was at 1.2 ec( 1.1 and then it goes to 1.2 when i pH adjust), then once the flowers have formed im using another ml/lt of pk13/14 and that raises my e.c. To 1.3-1.4. (After ph adjustment). Before i added the pk, i tried a base of 1.3-1.4 and got claw on these pineapple chunk girls. All clones. Dropped the ec down to 1.1 and then flushed with that. Claw disappeared. So like i say i just run at 1.2 max base and then i have gone up to 1.4 max with the pk13/14. Not seeing any claw now ,so i assume they are wanting the slightly higher ec. Then after 2-3 weeks with this them i will start lowering ec again, then flush for a week/10days .
Guess thats the beauty of coco. If you do go to high its very easy to reduce again with a leech.

Sorry if that dosn't help, or give you a specific answer. Just the only one who can decide it is you. As a rough guide though go for 1.2-1.4. As someone said its very strain specific, and also depends on every other factor.

Sorry you know this already.

What i do, and did was to look at the canna grow guide/sched. Change between the aqua one and the coco one. It will give you an idea of the ec for each stage. And you will see slight or no difference between the ec recommendation at certain growth stages.
It also says its not iron law,or set in stone, something like that and its true.

Sorry for long winded ness. Best of luck and happy grow.
 

easy jimmy

Active Member
So what ec/ppm do people run at different times of the cycle?? The man in my local shop told me 1 to do ec of nutes on top of ec of tap water. Eg tap water is 0.6 ec and I want my nutes to be 1.4 I combine the two and set at 2.0 but I can't belive that and 2 he told me to do set my ec on base nutes only and add pk and boost as the bottle says which I also don't belive... I'm thinking About throwing this dwc system away and going back to soil but have herd it can make the ladies produce a lot more.
heavy 16 a and b is nice and easy and sold in the sfv at a low price
 

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
So what ec/ppm do people run at different times of the cycle?? The man in my local shop told me 1 to do ec of nutes on top of ec of tap water. Eg tap water is 0.6 ec and I want my nutes to be 1.4 I combine the two and set at 2.0 but I can't belive that and 2 he told me to do set my ec on base nutes only and add pk and boost as the bottle says which I also don't belive... I'm thinking About throwing this dwc system away and going back to soil but have herd it can make the ladies produce a lot more.
Never saw that post sorry.
Well you are certainly right to question that chaps/chapettes advice. Espically if the ec of the tap water is 0.6. Even as an example thats extreme. Anything above 0.2-0.3 i would recommend an RO filter. Back to your point though. The ec should be adjusted to take into account the tap waters ec. So if you want an ec of 2.0 then yeah add 1.4 to the 0.6 , but if you should be saying something like, o my tap is 0.6 and i want to get to to 1.2, so i will only add 0.6 fert to my 0.6 tap to get to 1.2 if you get what im saying. So yeah if you want 1.4 add 0.8 to the tap of 0.6. Dont just ignore the tap waters ec. Also if your tap water is up at 0.6 i would get the water report(normally available online) to see how much of what is in your water. That could be 0.5 sodium with 0.05 Mg and 0.05 Ca for example. (More likely its a combo of alot more, but thats just an example.)

i say stick with the dwc this run, get at least a full cycle outta it before you decide against it.

Best o luck and take it easy.
 

Sneakysneaky

New Member
That's the way I thought of it bunnyface. So if to keep numbers and examples simple. For instance I ran at 1.6 ec with my 0.6 ec tap water but brought an ro filter do I continue the feeding at 1.6 so more nute to compensate for the loss or could/ would that nute burn the lady's so drop the ec to 1.2 taking into account from the ec I'm not putting in from the tap water
 

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
That's the way I thought of it bunnyface. So if to keep numbers and examples simple. For instance I ran at 1.6 ec with my 0.6 ec tap water but brought an ro filter do I continue the feeding at 1.6 so more nute to compensate for the loss or could/ would that nute burn the lady's so drop the ec to 1.2 taking into account from the ec I'm not putting in from the tap water
Yeah, well i guess there are a few ways you could run it, yeah i would keep my ec the same or drop it slighty and see how they go.
Presuming you drop the ec for a bit the only problem could be slight underfeeding, but if there was anything in the tap water the lower ec could help.
You could even start by using 50/50 ro water/tap water and maintain you ec and see how it goes. There could be sodium in your water that would 'substitute' other elements in your solution. (This only happens up to a tiny amount,then it goes toxic,cant remember exactly, im sure it was around 10ppm, would have to look it up.).
What i was trying to say was that the 0.6 tap water would be adding extras, so dropping it and not compensating for it,like you say could produce a diff. , Could...
The best approach would be to maybe just drop the ec slighty, by 0.2.-0.4 and try. Its not the best advice sorry but its kinda how much you wanted to do.
I see your dilema, i dont think that dropping the ec abit will hurt, but over doing it can. Especially in RDWC.

best o luck.
 

Sneakysneaky

New Member
Bunny face think I've got a calcium deficiency prop now I can't upload photos from my phone but basically the older lager fan leaves have started going yellow in the middle brown at the end with rust colored spots am I right and what can I do
 

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
Yeah, mind that older leaves yellowing with brown spots could be a few things. Ca would more effect younger leaves first.(Ca dif. is somewhat uncommon indoors, could be though) im sure Ca is immobile so would show in the younger leaves first.
ca deficiency will start with slow growth, and young leaves turn a dark green,then new shoots(young leaves)discolour, then shrivel/contort and die.
As just from the description i would think maybe a K deficiency.
a toxicity of Ca will cause a deficiency in potassium,magnesium,manganese and iron.
A K deficiency will start with dark green foliage aswell, then leaf margins will turn greyish colour, while the older leaf yellows. The grey colour progressing to brown(dead) colour,then the edges first curl/shrivel up and dry. Progessing up the leaf.
The yellowing of older leaves is accompanied by rust-coloured blotches/spots.
If the yellowing is 'between the veins' , so green veins on leaf, and yellowing between them, with brown spots,(smaller genrally)on older/middle leaves , spots on margins, tips and between veins, you probably have a Mg deficiency..(Mg is mobile too)
the later stages of which will yellow the whole plant.

Im assuming that your pH is in range, and your ec isnt way high. If this has shown up after lowering the ec up it. And vise versa ay.

these links may help you abit more.

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html


https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/38772-guide-diagnosing-plant-problems.html

as i said im not dwc, so couldn't really advise. But i would check my measurements, like ph, ec, temp of res. etc and then if all was well i would change out the res and if that didnt help, start a foliar feeding regime of whatever is deficient. (Even a 1/4 strenght complete nute formula.)
Most of the time a good res change will side step the need for an accurate diagnosis of deficiency/toxicity.

Once again sorry if thats not much help.

Best of luck...
 

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
Re reading your post you say the yellowing is from the middle of the leaves. Do you mean the apex of the leaf? As in where it changes from stem to leaf fingers?
As that with brown spotting could be a Mn deficiency. (But that would be on the younger leaves first),
without the spotting then maybe Fe, .
So yeah thinking about it again maybe its a Ca toxicity .

sorry thats probably not helping what so ever...

take it easy...
 

Sneakysneaky

New Member
Right I've brought some calmag today. Set my nute overall ec at 1.7 added calmag and it's shot up to 2.0. Do I take into consideration the calmag into the ec or leave it be??
 
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