help!

MustGro

MustGro

Well-Known Member
Your plants are doomed @Bhizzle28x , absolutely doomed. You’re gonna worry them to death.
Most people do too much and ruin them (I did), but you aren’t doing that. You’re just worried.
Relax if you can, if you can’t, pop some more seeds, they’ll keep you occupied.
So what there’s a bit of clawing on the small growth, the fans are lovely in the pics.
I don’t even see any red petioles. Looks dynamite, especially for under a blurple. You gonna flower with that?
How bad can your PH be when she looks like that, I wouldn’t change a thing myself judging on the plant.
I would add an oscillating fan for sure, it’ll help the plant transpire.
You didn’t give an overall pic so I can’t really judge her size, but the stalk isn’t so small so she’s getting big. I think you‘re right to be thinking about nutes, the spotting you mention is probably the start of using up what was in the mix. The ph swings in the wash could be from that too, but don‘t get too worried about the wash ph and ppm too much, especially if the plant is looking happy.
So what are you thinking of for nutes? Don’t tell me you haven’t thought about it.
You might get away with transplanting up to a bigger bag and adding some fresh mix that way; at least for a bit.
 
B

Bhizzle28x

Member
MustGro said:
Your plants are doomed @Bhizzle28x , absolutely doomed. You’re gonna worry them to death.
Most people do too much and ruin them (I did), but you aren’t doing that. You’re just worried.
Relax if you can, if you can’t, pop some more seeds, they’ll keep you occupied.
So what there’s a bit of clawing on the small growth, the fans are lovely in the pics.
I don’t even see any red petioles. Looks dynamite, especially for under a blurple. You gonna flower with that?
How bad can your PH be when she looks like that, I wouldn’t change a thing myself judging on the plant.
I would add an oscillating fan for sure, it’ll help the plant transpire.
You didn’t give an overall pic so I can’t really judge her size, but the stalk isn’t so small so she’s getting big. I think you‘re right to be thinking about nutes, the spotting you mention is probably the start of using up what was in the mix. The ph swings in the wash could be from that too, but don‘t get too worried about the wash ph and ppm too much, especially if the plant is looking happy.
So what are you thinking of for nutes? Don’t tell me you haven’t thought about it.
You might get away with transplanting up to a bigger bag and adding some fresh mix that way; at least for a bit.
Click to expand...
I definitely worry a lot cause it’s my first grow so any little thing of course I wanna be on it and on top of it for a learning experience you know. And I have nutes I have the FF trio nutes that before I bought everything that everyone seems to like.. also got some mag cal too so yes I been thinking about it since before I started growing. I been letting them go then I started to see the deficiencies and started to week. I’m only a wk or 2 before I start to flower. Plants at like 3 ft to 3 1/2 ft tall now
 
B

Bhizzle28x

Member
CheGueVapo said:
What kind of water you are watering? Do you know the mineral contents? Such low PH lower than 5.5 is a sign they liming agents (calmag) all have been used up.

Check this out:

Dolomite Lime

I'm growing 8 autoflowers in 2 gallon smart pots with FFOF soil. About 4 weeks in I noticed yellowing of the leaves so I tested the soil ph and it was ~5.8 in all the plants. I always ph my water to 6.5 before adding it to the soil. I flushed and flushed the plants with 6.5-6.8 water and could...
www.rollitup.org

Edit: dont try the2 tablespoons per pot.... if you try that, dilute it in water first and start low, maye with "teaspoons". It is pretty powerfull stuff in raising pH (dolomite).
Click to expand...
I do not I have been using the FF soil but someone else said it could be from the soil nutes being used up.but I use tap at 6 ph and it sits 24 hrs before I use it
 
B

Bhizzle28x

Member
MustGro said:
I wish I still had all the enthusiasm of a new grower. You have time for a part time “job” in my grow. It pays in weed…. Got lots of weed work on.
Click to expand...
i actually might lol and I have the enthusiasm but I also just want to do as little as possible. I spent a good bit on my setup so that it makes it an easier process so I hoped lol
 
MustGro

MustGro

Well-Known Member
Since you’re only a week or two from flower, I’m gonna nag you a bit…
I meant this shit, your plant is awesome, don’t slack off now
have you got a better light than a blurple to flower under? They don’t have the power to give good results in flower.
Get an oscillating fan in there, it’s ok if the leaves blow around.
A transplant into a bigger bag will help your roots expand and give the upper foliage a “pop”. It’s a nice idea to do it just before you flip to flower, then the roots have new area to grow into and new nutes to pick up. Plus the bigger bag holds more water so you’re not always putting fluids on after she gets big during flower.
I used to let my tap water sit out for 24 hours too when I first started. If it’s just for chlorine then it’s probably not necessary. Cannabis needs some chlorine, not much, but some.
You don’t have to do any of this obviously, but it’ll help your plant, I think so anyway. Great job so far.
 
B

Bhizzle28x

Member
MustGro said:
Since you’re only a week or two from flower, I’m gonna nag you a bit…
I meant this shit, your plant is awesome, don’t slack off now
have you got a better light than a blurple to flower under? They don’t have the power to give good results in flower.
Get an oscillating fan in there, it’s ok if the leaves blow around.
A transplant into a bigger bag will help your roots expand and give the upper foliage a “pop”. It’s a nice idea to do it just before you flip to flower, then the roots have new area to grow into and new nutes to pick up. Plus the bigger bag holds more water so you’re not always putting fluids on after she gets big during flower.
I used to let my tap water sit out for 24 hours too when I first started. If it’s just for chlorine then it’s probably not necessary. Cannabis needs some chlorine, not much, but some.
You don’t have to do any of this obviously, but it’ll help your plant, I think so anyway. Great job so far.
Click to expand...
I appreciate all the helpful information I do & I have the bloom switch lights to use for flowering. I thought about going into a bigger pot but my plan was to always have like 3 in my grow tent and my tent is only 3 x 3 x 7 so it gets a little crammed if I wanted to do 3 plants in 15 or 20 gal pots in there I’m only in a 10 now
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
Dolomite is powerfull stuff to raise the pH... and is hard to get that down again when you put into too much.
The good thing about dolomite is that Calcium and Magnesium are in a balanced good ratio. You dont need to take thoughts about that into about, what the right amount of each might be together. Dolomite is perfect ratio!

If you are lower 5.5... one TEAspoon with the watering of a pot should make it raise a lot higher... so check gently first! Of couse depending on the pot-size, if we are talking about 20 gals - lol - ya might try a tablespoon ;)

But you should consider that it not good in quickly making Cal or Mag available to the plats, because it is really slow releasing liming agent, strong bond between the Cal and Mag. That makes it ideal liming agent because it keep up a strong pH buffer at the desired point an only decreases over time when the released Cal-Mags of it has been absorbed by the plant. That in line with using relatively soft water with low CalMag minerals or RO-water with only some little 100ppm CalMag added makes your soil pH to be stable in the desired range. You feed less than the plants need (100ppm) and the plants get the rest from the liming-agents that buffer the pH => slow changing, stable


Bhizzle28x said:
15 or 20 gal
Click to expand...
Thats a lot of soil and taking a lot of time to spread the roots in veg.
SOG technique with maximum amout of cuttlings in pots per final squaree that are quickly grown roots in each, is the most energy-efficient and quickest way.
I transplant the best 11 from 12 cuttlings veged in a small chamber (2-3 weeks) from 1 gal in a smaller chamber to 3,3gal for the final.
sog.jpg
They are topped in veg for about 4 or 5 colas.

Thatsmore than 36 gals of soil.... per little bit more than a squaremeter... thats A LOT, it works with half of it same, you just have to water more often, thats why I picked "this lot", im lazy. 4-5 days between the watering when they drinking fast in the mid to final phase.

Their root zone is great on transplant, so I only need one times feed root stimulant plus mykhorriza during the transplant watering, adjust the light intensity to the right DLI for 18h and few days later i switch the higher intensity for same DLI at 12h and start the flowering.... i must because they already fill up the hole width space ;) Same time i know the root-system in the soil is big enough and ready for the square to flower! So gogogo.

Keeping high pace!

Rooting such big pots pots of 20 gal takes tremendous amount of time for 1 plant, before you should switch to flowering and it does not make the product better. Keep that in mind. Small plant count and high soil-mass is highly time-consuming.
 
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MustGro

MustGro

Well-Known Member
Bhizzle28x said:
I appreciate all the helpful information I do & I have the bloom switch lights to use for flowering. I thought about going into a bigger pot but my plan was to always have like 3 in my grow tent and my tent is only 3 x 3 x 7 so it gets a little crammed if I wanted to do 3 plants in 15 or 20 gal pots in there I’m only in a 10 now
Click to expand...
Those bags in the pics are 10 gallon? They look more like 3 or 5 gallons. 10 gallons should be fine through flower though, you’re right about that.
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
btw.... there's an easy tech for re-potting with lowest possible stress, i do that for the final re-pot.

I take an empty one of the small pots and prepare a hole of that form in the final pots....
Like this illustration:
repot.png
Gently take them out sideways to top down, check the roots about how big they grown and if healthy, and gently slide it in the exact fitting form of the new pot, clean up eventual dirt from the soil that fall on the leaves.

The new soil should not be totally dry, but contain little moisture of course to not burn the young roots.

Pretty easy... the plants have no stress this way! Especially if it is the exact same soil and you water then with root-stimulat plus mykorhizza. That way you have the guarantee and checked before, that the roots absolutely ready for flowering and keep growing fast soon to the new media soil.

There is no stall at all.... they continue fast growing from the first hours after repotting this way. So i can recommend this to anyone! It really great and simple repot-tech.

To be able to eat up the nutes of a soil....plants need to root it first. When you have too few roots, you cant tell if they have used up nutes.... it's just you can tell, they cannat access them when they are still there. So feeding, is no solution.... you need roots that you can feed first too! Roots are the most ignored parts of the plant, because you dont see it when inspecting the plant, while growers start whining about any yellow spot on a leave panicing... still they ignore root problems at all. But it's the most important plant part... and usually if you see upper damage, the bottom damage is high likely greater and on top, high likely is the cause of it!

If you care for the roots the most... the top part of the plant going to be healthy automatically! Because they rely on work of the roots absolutely in all demands. The roots get the nutes! The roots drink the water! They are crucial! The roots are usually the root of a problem with the plant :)

It saying: "Get to the root of a problem" is for a reason ;)

20gals on1plant... you make it ultra hard for yourself.... requiring monthes of veg.... and if you make one mistake after and accicently harm that 20gal rootzone... right, start again.... but I respect the SKILL it requires to keep everything balanced for over so long time. I bow to you if you make that...

And I bow for a reason....that grew one big plant... and it is of course amazing to see! Valid achievement :)There's certain aspects of the american way of life, I admire... it's not that i hate everything ;) I just like to have easier quicker results myself. Cuttings for SOG in relatively small to medium pots for a "gal"-scale are alrighty. I measure in Liters ;) Its 16l ceramique pots 1l drain ceramique, 15l soil... 11 times. I think thats BIG scale soil already! 20 gals.... i just roll eyes, but nevermind, iI respect it!
 
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CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
Bhizzle28x said:
but I use tap at 6 ph
Click to expand...
Thats low for tap. Usually tap contains a lot of calcium and should be around 7, most likely higher. Its really pH 6 from the tap at your place? Whats the EC or ppm500 value? That would be the cause for the steady depleting liming agents in the soil... low calcium in the tap, so the plants eat up the lime! So is it soft water?

Edit:
In case you lowering the pH of the tap first to 6, I dont recommend that. Thats breaks up that lime-buffer-capacity of the tap-water.
First add all your nutes, when all is in, finally adjust the pH optionally to desired pH.... the nutes (should) alone lower the pH of the tap non the less.
Only RO can be added up with calmag and PH-control BEFORE you add up nutes, for the reason to add up a lime-buffer. Thats not at all neccessary for tap water it should have liming-buffer-capacity already. Thats in doubt at pH 6 when that comes from the tap...

See i take RO water and give Calmag into it plus specific anorganic acid and air-bubble-stones..... the PH starts at 5.5 and the acid and aerating (the CO²) starts diluting the Calmag-lime adding PH-buffer capacity to the water.... the PH starts increasing from that dilution of the Calmag and slowing down the process... so i add up repeatingly acid down to 5.5 until it does not rise anymore, ending up about 100ppm and set it @ PH 6.1 and then I add up the nutes and finally set the PH to dsired value finally. That way i have installed a liming-agent pH buffer capacity into the RO-water resulting in perfect soft water with only Cal-, Mag-, and either Nitogene- (veg) or Phosphorus- (flowering) -Ions from the lime and the acids, nothing else. This beeing the basic starting water, for the reason to keep the salinity as low as possible with the right ions (only EC 0,2=soft), still having PH buffering water, with that i add up a hole solely organic programm! I do that PH-controlling and adding up Calmag for lime-buffer, because i experienced PH going totally out of control with only RO, and recycling the soil may turned out beeing impossible to adjust effectively. Works perfectly now for me, so I keep that! Microbes grow strong! PH is rock solid as it should be with each watering under my control to where it goes next! That soil can be endlessly recyled and i do that! The most hardest part, is to get it down from 6.3 after the grow to at least 6.1 for the next grow... not that easy as you might think.... adding up acid isn't just working, without taking out the lime.... it just makes co² gas out and kill the microbes... but then the lime rebuilds when the acids H+ got neutralised... simply does not work that way. ;) Its a brainer in fact that most people dont get their head around always just thinking in acid and base, not knowing the role of the buffer-capacity. Adding up some (clean, mold free) coffee-ground (organic-acidic-material!) and rhododendron-soil (low on liming agents) works best lowering it in the preparation phase! For me all that is just routine.... not a big thing! Quickly done... reads more complicated than it is!
 
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Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
CheGueVapo said:
Thats low for tap. Usually tap contains a lot of calcium and should be around 7, most likely higher. Its really pH 6 from the tap at your place? Whats the EC or ppm500 value? That would be the cause for the steady depleting liming agents in the soil... low calcium in the tap, so the plants eat up the lime! So is it soft water?

Edit:
In case you lowering the pH of the tap first to 6, I dont recommend that. Thats breaks up that lime-buffer-capacity of the tap-water.
First add all your nutes, when all is in, finally adjust the pH optionally to desired pH.... the nutes (should) alone lower the pH of the tap non the less.
Only RO can be added up with calmag and PH-control BEFORE you add up nutes, for the reason to add up a lime-buffer. Thats not at all neccessary for tap water it should have liming-buffer-capacity already. Thats in doubt at pH 6 when that comes from the tap...

See i take RO water and give Calmag into it plus specific anorganic acid and air-bubble-stones..... the PH starts at 5.5 and the acid and aerating (the CO²) starts diluting the Calmag-lime adding PH-buffer capacity to the water.... the PH starts increasing from that dilution of the Calmag and slowing down the process... so i add up repeatingly acid down to 5.5 until it does not rise anymore, ending up about 100ppm and set it @ PH 6.1 and then I add up the nutes and finally set the PH to dsired value finally. That way i have installed a liming-agent pH buffer capacity into the RO-water resulting in perfect soft water with only Cal-, Mag-, and either Nitogene- (veg) or Phosphorus- (flowering) -Ions from the lime and the acids, nothing else. This beeing the basic starting water, for the reason to keep the salinity as low as possible with the right ions (only EC 0,2=soft), still having PH buffering water, with that i add up a hole solely organic programm! I do that PH-controlling and adding up Calmag for lime-buffer, because i experienced PH going totally out of control with only RO, and recycling the soil may turned out beeing impossible to adjust effectively. Works perfectly now for me, so I keep that! Microbes grow strong! PH is rock solid as it should be with each watering under my control to where it goes next! That soil can be endlessly recyled and i do that! The most hardest part, is to get it down from 6.3 after the grow to at least 6.1 for the next grow... not that easy as you might think.... adding up acid isn't just working, without taking out the lime.... it just makes co² gas out and kill the microbes... but then the lime rebuilds when the acids H+ got neutralised... simply does not work that way. ;) Its a brainer in fact that most people dont get their head around always just thinking in acid and base, not knowing the role of the buffer-capacity. Adding up some (clean, mold free) coffee-ground (organic-acidic-material!) and rhododendron-soil (low on liming agents) works best lowering it in the preparation phase! For me all that is just routine.... not a big thing! Quickly done... reads more complicated than it is!
Click to expand...
Wait … WTF ?

Mr. Canuck nonsense
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Besides all that talk about 6.0 ph in ffof is wrong.
His plant has high nitrogen excess - not end of world. Plant can work thru the nute dense FFOF without anything else dumped into it. I run tap with it ( mine hits 8.2 - shit cali water ) i just mix and “ range “ final feed to “ match “ medium ( whether ffof / hempy or whatever. )

No god damn slurry tests or runoff checks … this bagged medium can take weeks just to begin sign of exhaustion. Matter of fact , you can top dress more ffof to simply recharge medium.

Buffers and all.

Ph to 6.5/6.7 - save the drama
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
Its 'bout bringing in line what you give with the buffer in the soil to not change the soil-buffer. Correcting only the PH is not the same than adding lime buffer to the RO-water, if you know what RO water is in cali :D A blessing!
When you always feed 8.5 to your soil it raises... they cant take up that many lime-minerals... so you have to throw away your salted-up ffof after a cycle.... you cant recycle that long with giving 8.5 tap. Good luck on bringing the soil down.

Redarding the insanity.... thank you for that compliment. At your service.... :)
 
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