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- Thread starter gazjol
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elenor.rigby
Active Member
im no expert but i would say they are way too young for any nutes or adds. look a littlie stretched too. try transplanting to bigger pots and closer to light sourse..
Los Muertos
Active Member
Yeah man. How far away and what kind of light? They should be a lot bigger after 5 weeks.
elenor.rigby
Active Member
repot when you can see the roots approacjing the bottom of the pot, transplant 3 times in total, thats what i do. you need a better light dude or you risk just growing an attractive ornament.as nice as they look. dont worry that they look different at this stage. could be many many genetic things, get a hps light or at least 300w of dual spectrum cfl.
ValiD
Active Member
5 weeks? really? They should be very big at this point, but the lack of light stopped them from growing and developing very much, as you can see they are pretty much stretched. Fertilizing is a big no-no, and can also contribute to the stunted growth. The size of the pot would not be a problem, I have been growing my bubblelicious its first 2.5 weeks of vegging into a pot exactly that small and when I transplanted it, it still had about 20-30% space left. The plant though was about 4 times the size of the one in the picture, and never lost a leaf until now, 2 weeks after going to 12/12.
More likely the problem with the stunted growth is the daily watering and the use of fertilizers. You never ever should keep the roots permanently moist. Water (half a glass or a glass should be enough for that much soil, just water it until it starts to come out the bottom, but stop when it starts to do so) every 4 days or maybe even more, like just once a week. (this also depends on the amount of heat that builds up, more heat => faster drying)
You need to let the soil dry between watering, because the roots need to search for the water in order to grow. Don't spray ON the plants, that will cause burns. They shouldn't have been yellowing being so small in size. The cotyledons, maybe, but even those come off waay later, if they even come off, usually they just shrivel and become part of the stem's trunk, acting as protection I would assume.
You can transplant into a better soil, but be careful with what you mix, remember your seedlings don't need very much organic matter, just enough to support a few more nodes growing and stem thickening. Always wash your hands before touching the plant. Don't even think about fertilizing for now, you WILL kill your plant at some point or another. If you decide to transplant, bury them more into the new soil, like up to the first set of (now yellow) leaves, those will come off anyway. The leaves nodes should be ABOVE soil level. You want to be extra careful with the roots and the seedling itself. After putting it into the new soil, gently press the soil around the stem, not very hard though. Water the area around the stem, but not near the stem itself (leave about 1-2cm), but the soil that stands around it, that you earlier pressed. Don't water very hard, just a half glass of water should do the trick. Then leave it alone for the next 2 days at least, maybe 3.
Wrap your box walls with white paper (duct tape?), that should improve the amount of light being reflected back to the plants and it's always a good idea. And bring the light closer. If they're cool white CFL's, you're safe keeping it about 4-5 cm high above the plant. Check it twice a day or so to prevent burning it, if it starts to grow at a fast pace, keep it at around 7cm, but not more than that. If you can add some more CFLs that would also help. Not a whole new lot, 2/3/4 cfls should be more than just fine until they grow a little more. After that you WILL need to get more lights; 100W worth of CFL is the minimum for an acceptable yield (this means 3 to 8 bulbs, depending on wattage and how long you grow them before flower). The more light, the better.
Pick Cool Whites for the vegetative state (ie: until you want to flower it), the ones at 6400-6500K because as they're name says, the light is very cool and even the bulbs themselves aren't hot, you can keep your hand on it and you'll not be burned. When you go to flower you will need to replace those with some that emit a warmer light (2700K range or so) also called Daylight or Warm Whites, or a HPS bulb, but you have a good bunch of time to read some more on the subject before that.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
More likely the problem with the stunted growth is the daily watering and the use of fertilizers. You never ever should keep the roots permanently moist. Water (half a glass or a glass should be enough for that much soil, just water it until it starts to come out the bottom, but stop when it starts to do so) every 4 days or maybe even more, like just once a week. (this also depends on the amount of heat that builds up, more heat => faster drying)
You need to let the soil dry between watering, because the roots need to search for the water in order to grow. Don't spray ON the plants, that will cause burns. They shouldn't have been yellowing being so small in size. The cotyledons, maybe, but even those come off waay later, if they even come off, usually they just shrivel and become part of the stem's trunk, acting as protection I would assume.
You can transplant into a better soil, but be careful with what you mix, remember your seedlings don't need very much organic matter, just enough to support a few more nodes growing and stem thickening. Always wash your hands before touching the plant. Don't even think about fertilizing for now, you WILL kill your plant at some point or another. If you decide to transplant, bury them more into the new soil, like up to the first set of (now yellow) leaves, those will come off anyway. The leaves nodes should be ABOVE soil level. You want to be extra careful with the roots and the seedling itself. After putting it into the new soil, gently press the soil around the stem, not very hard though. Water the area around the stem, but not near the stem itself (leave about 1-2cm), but the soil that stands around it, that you earlier pressed. Don't water very hard, just a half glass of water should do the trick. Then leave it alone for the next 2 days at least, maybe 3.
Wrap your box walls with white paper (duct tape?), that should improve the amount of light being reflected back to the plants and it's always a good idea. And bring the light closer. If they're cool white CFL's, you're safe keeping it about 4-5 cm high above the plant. Check it twice a day or so to prevent burning it, if it starts to grow at a fast pace, keep it at around 7cm, but not more than that. If you can add some more CFLs that would also help. Not a whole new lot, 2/3/4 cfls should be more than just fine until they grow a little more. After that you WILL need to get more lights; 100W worth of CFL is the minimum for an acceptable yield (this means 3 to 8 bulbs, depending on wattage and how long you grow them before flower). The more light, the better.
Pick Cool Whites for the vegetative state (ie: until you want to flower it), the ones at 6400-6500K because as they're name says, the light is very cool and even the bulbs themselves aren't hot, you can keep your hand on it and you'll not be burned. When you go to flower you will need to replace those with some that emit a warmer light (2700K range or so) also called Daylight or Warm Whites, or a HPS bulb, but you have a good bunch of time to read some more on the subject before that.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.