High Brix Marijuana

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
By the way what people think about my style means nothing.

What matters is this thread is open minded, decent toward those growing marijuana (because we understand their struggles), helpful, respectful, and filled with valuable/valid information that new and old growers alike can use and actually apply to real world situations with Success!

There is more than one way to skin a cat or grow a marijuana plant. As long as the methods work well we embrace them.
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Another excellent high brix article. Im hoping these links are helping others get a decent idea of what brix is and how to go about achieving a high brix crop. They certainly have been helping create a better understanding in my case. Enjoy ...

https://highbrixgardens.com/victory-gardens/the-path-to-high-brix.html


Just one example of a High Brix soil recipe. According to him a lab helped create it for him.

Adding 1 cup of 6-5-3 to 2.0 CF of soil
(25% happy frog 75% peat perlite mix)

6-5-3 = 6 parts Calcium Carbonate 90% pure or better CaCo3

5 parts Soft Rock Phosphate

3 parts gypsum

3 quarts EWC

1/2 cupAzomite (we're being told not to use azomite due to high aluminum content basalt rock dust instead?)

1/2 cup Bone Meal (Do you guys know of a better option that promotes brix?)

Mycos

Mix it then pour microbial tea over soil...mix again and let it cook 1 month in a warm place, making sure it does not dry out during the cook period.

He goes on to say ... "like I said I didnt create this. This was formulated for me for high brix by ag labs"

(Anyone have any experience with AG labs?)

Obviously there are better brix mixes out there. My questions are what do you all think of this mix? Can the brix masters point out the flaws, benefits and/or where this mix is lacking? Thank you for the input!
 
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Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
From the SARE website. Quite a bit of useful information. Concerning soil testing...

Testing Soils for Organic Matter


A word of caution when comparing your soil test organic matter levels with those discussed in this book. If your laboratory reports organic matter as “weight loss” at high temperature, the numbers may be higher than if the lab uses the traditional wet chemistry method. A soil with 3% organic matter by wet chemistry might have a weight-loss value of between 4% and 5%. Most labs use a correction factor to approximate the value you would get by using the wet chemistry procedure. Although either method can be used to follow changes in your soil, when you compare soil organic matter of samples run in different laboratories, it’s best to make sure the same method was used.
There is now a laboratory that will determine various forms of living organisms in your soil. Although it costs quite a bit more than traditional testing for nutrients or organic matter, you can find out the amount (weight) of fungi and bacteria in a soil, as well as obtaining an analysis for other organisms. (See the “Resources” section for laboratories that run tests in addition to basic soil fertility analysis.)

Heres the link to the SARE website. Quite a bit of interesting information on soil here. Some myths are challenged on this website as well ...

http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Books/Building-Soils-for-Better-Crops-3rd-Edition/Text-Version/Getting-the-Most-From-Routine-Soil-Tests/Testing-Soils-for-Organic-Matter
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Volacanic rock dust really work for high brix and is verry fast absorb 12 h after feed water to my organic mix my brix level jump from 14 to 21 that high brix i guess

View attachment 4031433 View attachment 4031434
Nice job Swed!

How much volcanic rock dust did you add per plant? Did you water with any other additives?

Thank you for the valuable input!


I found this online today. Makes sense.

High Brix grower: "Sorry I just noticed this. Before Brix is measured it's important to wash the leaves, ideally with a strong acidic solution (e.g. using pH 3 using citric acid), and then with distilled or deionized water. So residual ions and organic compounds (e.g. sugars from compost tea) do not containment the sample for Brix measurement, as can happen during sap extraction with a leaf press. Also, the press should be thoroughly cleaned between uses, with strong acidic solution."

As usual any input would be appreciated.

Peace!
 
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swedsteven

Well-Known Member
Organic mix
I just top feed all dry the1/2cup volcanic rock dust with composted cow manure and a 1/3cup neem cake they were asking for nitrogen after that I feed straight water .

Botanicare
I top feed all dry volcanic rock dust .compost.dolomite lime powder chaux ph issue. After that i feed nute 1/4strenght with water and full doses of liquid karma(kelp .humic and fulvic acide) .

I never do foliar when I am flowering .
If I do foliar is to kill some aphid in early veg and then i rinse them with a compost tea .I dont want to put shit on my bud not even water !!!
 
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Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Botanicare brix when to 21-22 after feeding yesterday . I really think is only the volcanic rock dust that do that .
Where are you buying your rock dust swed onlne? What brand is it? Sounds like minerals in the volcanic rock are in fact absorbed immediately.

Appreciate the input!
 
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swedsteven

Well-Known Member
The cheaper i could find and the closer


On amazon canamaze

  • VOLCANIC ROCK POWDER
    OMRI Listed as an acceptable organic soil amendment which contains 63+ minerals and trace elements. A small particle size, 73% = -325 mesh or smaller, makes it easy for microbes to break down quickly and plants to absorb for maximum effectiveness.Easy application methods and rates of application for any area.



  • 100% NATURAL PLANT FOOD
    A premier rock powder, derived from authentic andesite volcanic rock, contains high levels of the minerals and trace elements, which enhance the health and productive capacity of soil. Adding CanAmaze VRP is the most effective, natural method of enhancing plant health and strength enabling plants to resist insects, disease, drought and frost; while simultaneously increasing the quality and yield of plants.



  • ROCK DUST SOIL CONDITIONER
    Rock dust is also known as rock powder, a soil conditioner or soil amendment used to remineralize crop land, garden soil, greenhouse potting soil and landscaping turf. The minerals and trace elements which enhance the health and productive capacity of soil increase the quality and yield of plants growing in mineral depleted soils
  • 20 lbs for 55 can 2 day free shipping .I order 1 bag let start paramagnetism upgrade!!!
  • 1 cup for every cubic foot once year
I test the brix of my veg tent mother and averege off 5 to 7 brix i dont really feed any food only when im vegging they eat in 1 gallon pot
 
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Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
The cheaper i could find and the closer


On amazon canamaze

  • VOLCANIC ROCK POWDER
    OMRI Listed as an acceptable organic soil amendment which contains 63+ minerals and trace elements. A small particle size, 73% = -325 mesh or smaller, makes it easy for microbes to break down quickly and plants to absorb for maximum effectiveness.Easy application methods and rates of application for any area.



  • 100% NATURAL PLANT FOOD
    A premier rock powder, derived from authentic andesite volcanic rock, contains high levels of the minerals and trace elements, which enhance the health and productive capacity of soil. Adding CanAmaze VRP is the most effective, natural method of enhancing plant health and strength enabling plants to resist insects, disease, drought and frost; while simultaneously increasing the quality and yield of plants.



  • ROCK DUST SOIL CONDITIONER
    Rock dust is also known as rock powder, a soil conditioner or soil amendment used to remineralize crop land, garden soil, greenhouse potting soil and landscaping turf. The minerals and trace elements which enhance the health and productive capacity of soil increase the quality and yield of plants growing in mineral depleted soils
  • 20 lbs for 55 can 2 day free shipping .I order 1 bag let start paramagnetism upgrade!!!
  • 1 cup for every cubic foot once year
I test the brix of my veg tent mother and averege off 5 to 7 brix i dont really feed any food only when im vegging they eat in 1 gallon pot
Excellent post Swed. Your input is always welcome.

So it's working really well for you. Your mothers are between 5 to 7 brix and they arent being fed the same diet as your plants that are around 21 brix.

So far the volcanic rock dust has propelled your brix levels through the roof. Anything youd like to add to this?
 
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psychedelicdaddi

Well-Known Member
Sampled from the lowest oldest leaf receiving light, I checked my brix for a preflowering autoflower to be 9. I wonder if it changes towards flowering finish. Bud vs leaf would be interesting.
 

Tupapa

Well-Known Member
Finally, Roger Haring, an agronomist working in our laboratory, decided to test the effects of the paramagnetic force on growing plants as well. Haring decided to isolate the paramagnetic force from the soil by surrounding a mere 3 grams of paramagnetic, rock dust with parafilm. With previous experience growing mung bean, Vigna radiata, he decided to continue his work with this Asian crop by testing its interaction with the paramagnetic force. Since previous results had already shown that paramagnetism has beneficial effects on plants through out their life cycle, he chose growing mung bean, Vigna radiata, he decided to continue his work with this Asian crop by testing its interaction with the paramagnetic force. Since previous results had already shown that paramagnetism has beneficial effects on plants through out their life cycle, he chose solely to focus in on germination rates. For this reason, Haring ran his experiments for only 10 days and then observed the effect paramagnetism had on the seedling as well as the early stem and leaves. Even though his results were modest, owing to the short periods in which he ran the experiments, he still recorded significant effects.

Haring germinated mung bean seeds on moist cotton media with or without an adjacent pouch of paramagnetic soil wrapped in parafilm. He repeated this experiment a total of 15 times. Haring found that he could obtain, on average, a 19 percent increase in stem length, a 15 percent increase in leaf length, a 17 percent increase in total plant biomass and a 3 percent increase in the dry weight of the early roots after only 10 days. His findings are represented in Figure 5. The dry-weight increase of the early roots, though small, surprised us because the roots had absolutely no soil in which to grow. For this reason, we might not expect any difference to occur at this stage of development.

We have found that it is often the case that paramagnetism exerts its effects on the roots -through the roots may be more appropriate terminology. This is a trend that had been noted before the round of experiments just reported, and the results from these three experiments help contribute to this hypothesis. Both Horvath and Whitty found a significant difference between root development in their most recent experiments; however, the information they reported was only observational (qualitative versus quantitative) which far from disqualifying these results only prevents their publication in scientific journals. Even Haring achieved a small but surprising increase in dry root weight of mung bean after only a 10 day experiment with no soil.

The paramagnetic effect exerting its force selectively or more powerfully on the root system shouldn't be difficult to understand. The roots are in closer contact with the paramagnetic soil than the stem or leaves. Large, healthy roots would naturally lead to more vigorous growth of the plant above the soil as well, but it seems these benefits may only be a secondary effect. The primary effect appears to be on the roots, and it is strongly felt that long term controlled studies would reveal properties that would hold for all plants.
My head hurts
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Sampled from the lowest oldest leaf receiving light, I checked my brix for a preflowering autoflower to be 9. I wonder if it changes towards flowering finish. Bud vs leaf would be interesting.
Those are good questions PD maybe someone can enlighten us. I was wondering the same things.

My head hurts
lmao! welcome to the thread Tupapa. All of the info concerning high brix will certainly put a thumpin' to your head.
 

keepsake

Well-Known Member
My soil recipe is a little short on basalt.
I only had enough to do 2 cups per cubic ft rather than 4 cups.
My teens are already transplanted.
Can I top dress with basalt when I buy some more next week?
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
My soil recipe is a little short on basalt.
I only had enough to do 2 cups per cubic ft rather than 4 cups.
My teens are already transplanted.
Can I top dress with basalt when I buy some more next week?
From what Im understanding you absolutely can. Exactly how much you top dress with is a question better answered by those with more experience in high brix growing.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Im using a high birx molases when making a fpe, I like em-1 tried collecting my own labs but foung em-1 more reliable. I feel manure plays a key role here too and am experimenting with a few things. Winemaking is another hobby and i notice years with higher brix wine is generally better. Im curious about the refractometer readings and would likento get one myself, recommendations? Also would like to see some baseline info, what would be considered high brix mj seen charts for fruit and what not...
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Im using a high birx molases when making a fpe, I like em-1 tried collecting my own labs but foung em-1 more reliable. I feel manure plays a key role here too and am experimenting with a few things. Winemaking is another hobby and i notice years with higher brix wine is generally better. Im curious about the refractometer readings and would likento get one myself, recommendations? Also would like to see some baseline info, what would be considered high brix mj seen charts for fruit and what not...
Heres a link that may help answer some of your questions. Worst that can happen is you'll fall down the rabbit hole and gather all the information you need.

https://www.420magazine.com/forums/organic-hi-brix/169250-high-brix-refractometer-results-log-data-thread-post-your-brix-levels-here.html

Also Refractometers ...

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=refractometer+brix&tag=hydsma-20&index=aps&hvadid=174626766226&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12127539430478814449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031738&hvtargid=kwd-96682115&ref=pd_sl_5yct7zo7cn_b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu5qLufqW1wIVzYl-Ch1ytwsQEAMYASAAEgIM8_D_BwE

All we ask is you come back here ocassionally and share your findings with us! So we can create a kick *ss high brix thread over here as well.

Best of luck!
 
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