coll
Well-Known Member
i dont think it matters personally, the big thing your looking for is it's anti fungal properties so it dont rought before it sends out roots, imo.
How Do I Clone Marijuana Plants?Tutorial
- Thread starter potroastV2
- Start date
noltnercr03
Well-Known Member
My question about cloning is the mother. I know the key is to not let her flower so you keep her under 18/6 hours. The question i have is what light is good to use. I have hps but that will be used for my already growing plants could i keep it under flourecent? Also could explain any bad signs that a mother may be showing. Yes i will admit i am a total noob but seeds are expensive and i like me strain.
I have a question,
I have been running this setup for at least 3 weeks and for some reason I can't get my clones to sprout roots. I boil the instruments before using them, shave the stems and cut at 45 degrees. I then dip them in a rooting powder and after getting a red dixie cup, half filling it with water and covering it with saran, I poke a hole in the top and put the stem inside so that half of it is covered with water. They are in a warm place and their temp is regulated and I get NOWHERE near the success pictured at the beginning. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks!
I have been running this setup for at least 3 weeks and for some reason I can't get my clones to sprout roots. I boil the instruments before using them, shave the stems and cut at 45 degrees. I then dip them in a rooting powder and after getting a red dixie cup, half filling it with water and covering it with saran, I poke a hole in the top and put the stem inside so that half of it is covered with water. They are in a warm place and their temp is regulated and I get NOWHERE near the success pictured at the beginning. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks!
JonnyBtreed
Well-Known Member
where are you taking the clone from?
onthedl0008
Well-Known Member
I found best results using the cup by simply putting enuff water in the cup to cover the scraping (1/2 inch to an inch tops )
From there I set the cups on the side of my moms in the veg spot in 18/6 light.
I make sure i change the water every day one time per day.
Do not cover the cup..Its not neccesary bro.Actually i think they need the fresh air.
U do all that I guarantee u great results.. I just got 100% again and with great abandonement..The trick is low intensive lighting but much of it... And change ur water daily man.I didnt even scrape or dip last time and got roots on some in 8 days the rest caught up in 11.
Good luck
ovrgrwn
Active Member
I just cloned for my first time and went 6/6. I used olivia's cloning gel and placed the cuttings in pre-soaked jiffy pellets, seeing as I HATE rockwool. All went well. All 6 were ready to transplant within 9 days tops. All were in a cloning box with humidity dome and under 2-24watt t-5's. Very exciting for a first timer.
deviouslikeyou
Active Member
alright, this is me and my own story. i've sat here and read, re-read the article trying to find some pointers and get some info i might have missed in the beginning. good article by the way..
i have completely screwed up about a dozen white widow clones from some 2 1/2foot mothers and a dozen alaskan ice clones from 3 different 2 foot mothers, all at the same time. i have cloned with the 45 degree cutting, dipped in water and roting hormone, tried both rockwool starter cubes and jiffy pellets to no avail. all sat within 2 seperate humidity domes with very minimal lighting and a germinating heater pad, misted everyday and checked progress regularly, misted and all that jazz. they are al still green ...but after 2 weeks there is no roots and when i gently puled out one white widow clone, the tip was nasty brown and crusty almost like it was dying or had died. it was very brittle and rough to the touch. it broke very easily when i bent it slightly..
nothing, zilch, nada. im not a pro by any means, ive just never cloned before. im a outdors type of guy but trying something new this year. but following advice and ideas seen here and wasting all these clones is almost criminal../ it's breaking my heart == ha ha ha ha . seriously though....im about to give up until i have seen this article on rooting in plain water in dixie cups.
im gonna go ahead and reclip the ones that are not doing anything and try the cup method.(making them a bit shorter) if it doesnt work then it cant get any worse. all my clones look healthy up top but wont root after 2 weeks. i know some strains root at different times but the white widow and alaskan ice doesnt seem hard to grow..im lost here..
thanks again for the article and if i can get these 24 clones to do anything i'll re-post with pics and a verification that this method works .
thanks for the article fellas and happy growing!
i have completely screwed up about a dozen white widow clones from some 2 1/2foot mothers and a dozen alaskan ice clones from 3 different 2 foot mothers, all at the same time. i have cloned with the 45 degree cutting, dipped in water and roting hormone, tried both rockwool starter cubes and jiffy pellets to no avail. all sat within 2 seperate humidity domes with very minimal lighting and a germinating heater pad, misted everyday and checked progress regularly, misted and all that jazz. they are al still green ...but after 2 weeks there is no roots and when i gently puled out one white widow clone, the tip was nasty brown and crusty almost like it was dying or had died. it was very brittle and rough to the touch. it broke very easily when i bent it slightly..
nothing, zilch, nada. im not a pro by any means, ive just never cloned before. im a outdors type of guy but trying something new this year. but following advice and ideas seen here and wasting all these clones is almost criminal../ it's breaking my heart == ha ha ha ha . seriously though....im about to give up until i have seen this article on rooting in plain water in dixie cups.
im gonna go ahead and reclip the ones that are not doing anything and try the cup method.(making them a bit shorter) if it doesnt work then it cant get any worse. all my clones look healthy up top but wont root after 2 weeks. i know some strains root at different times but the white widow and alaskan ice doesnt seem hard to grow..im lost here..
thanks again for the article and if i can get these 24 clones to do anything i'll re-post with pics and a verification that this method works .
thanks for the article fellas and happy growing!
onthedl0008
Well-Known Member
Hey devious i have a thread on that cup of water method man. Works great and ive kinda fine tuned it if ur interested. I didnt see an article in ur post either.But either ways it does work well just in a cup of tap water in indirect light. Gotta change the water once a day tho. Sometimes u dont have to worry about changing ur water tho cause the cutting's suck it up over night and u just add new. Some times they develope roots quick. Some times they take longer depending on the health of the plant being cut.. Ive got some sitting in a cup i took yesterday haha ill update that thread.
nebula69hydro
Active Member
i just tried 6 3 durban poison and 3 dwarf ganja-been in flowering a few weeks now,hope it works
southlondon187
Member
how long can it take for roots to grow ?
tone702
Well-Known Member
research it dog on google or somthing im sure youll find lots of usefull info! But I use the Shultz powder(bought at the HomeDepot) takes couple weeks but you can clone almost any cutiing in flower veg or even small in size.. just make sure you keep humidty dome on it untill you see new growth.. Oh yeah use peat pots or rockwooll(havent tryed rockwool yet been meanning to heard it works well)
Codyztheman
Member
can you clone a fan leaf? it wouldnt grow weed on it would it?
palehawaiian
Active Member
Whatever grow system you use, you are bound to use clones sooner or later.
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Growing from clones means that you will harvest more bud sooner. Many people who start a garden these days know someone who will give them a few clones for the simple pleasure of sharing a good thing. Some people sell clones, often growing an exclusively vegetative garden without ever flowering. These clonemeisters keep a variety of select mothers from high-quality strains, and grow them on a continuous eighteen hour light cycle. They can make good money selling trays of cuttings, either rooted or simply fresh cut. Rooted
clones are more expensive than fresh cuttings. [/FONT]
cuttings versus seeds
Many people opt to purchase a tray of cuttings when starting out, so they get a faster return on their investment. This is sensible, but there is no substitute for learning, and growing from seed teaches you more about the plant. Growing from seed, especially from high numbers of seeds, allows for the selection of a particular plant that best suits your needs.
I always tell people who start from seed to be sure to take two clones from the bottom of each plant just before putting the plants into flower. These clones should be labeled with the same number as the mother plant from which it was taken, as well as the date it was cut. Keep those clones alive!
When you see which plant produces the best buds and is most worthy of your precious grow space, take the corresponding clones and grow them large under your metal halide on an eighteen hour light cycle. Your next crop can be all cuttings from your favourite plant. This harvest will be much more uniform than the last one, and this will improve the quality and quantity of your yield.
If you grow you should eventually cut and root your own clones. There are many ways to take clones, and I am going to share the simple procedure that I use to take mine. It's easy to do, especially once you get a feel for it.
how to take the cutting
To get started you will need: a clean razor blade, a water mister, a tray with a clear plastic lid, a planting medium, and perhaps a jar of rooting hormone. Clones can be effectively rooted using nothing more than water, however most growers choose to dip their freshly cut stem into either a rooting powder or a gel.
Many growers cut the branch underwater so that no air bubbles will form in the stem of the new cutting. If air enters the stem it will prevent the stem from carrying water and the cutting will die. Dipping the cut end of the stem immediately into a rooting gel also solves the air bubble problem. If using a powder the cuttings must be wet so that the powder will adhere.
Use a toothpick or a nail to poke a hole in the planting medium, to ease the entry of the cut stem. It is important not to crush or bend the tender stem at all. Try and make the hole about the same size as the stem to be inserted.
When you have your tools and accessories ready and have soaked your medium, you should select a soft, small branch from the bottom of the plant, one that wouldn't amount to much anyway. If you are planning to keep the plant in vegetative growth to continue taking cuttings then you should take cuttings from any shoots that have two or three nodes. I take cuttings that are between two and four inches long, but some people prefer to take cuttings as long as eight inches.
The stem will root quickly if it is still soft and green, not woody. Make an even, diagonal slice through the branch with your clean razor, below the would-be cutting. Strip the bottom leaves off of the cutting, dip it in rooting gel and plant it.
If you make your cut right above a node on the branch then two new branches will sprout out as if it had been pinched. If you continue in this fashion then your mother will produce an exponential number of cuttings every two weeks. You will soon be proudly giving clones away to your friends (or maybe Sell them).
how to root your cuttings
So now you've cut and dipped your first batch of clones, stuck them in a medium, misted them, and put the clear plastic lid on the tray. Now put the tray under fluorescent lights, about six inches away to start with, moving them a little closer every few days.
I've rooted clones on the floor in my bedroom, and in many a veg room in the shade of a leafy mother. Both provide decent ambient light and a good temperature range. 24¡C is optimum temperature, but my experience is that as long as it's close to that it'll do. The clones must be warm but not scorched. Direct light will burn them because without roots the stem cannot supply the leaves with enough water to match the leaves' rate of transpiration.
Transpiration is a part of how the plant grows. Water and nutrients travel up the stem from the roots to the leaves, where they are used in photosynthesis. Tiny hairs called stomata sweat out the moisture to allow the stream of nutrients to continue flowing. Wind aids in transpiration by blowing the moisture off the stomata, which is why the lid is so important.
Another way to protect the stomata is to spray a light wax onto the cuttings. This slows transpiration to the point where you don't even need a lid, and the waxy coating serves as a protection against pests. I suggest you just try using a lid at first.
Remove the lid once a day and fan the cuttings with it for a few seconds. I also like to cut small holes into the corners of the lid so that there is a little ventilation, and I usually put holes into the corners of the tray to allow for drainage if the plants are over-watered. The roots need oxygen to thrive and survive.
supplements & supplies
Oasis Foam is my favourite medium because it is so airy and quick to dry, and it has the added bonus of having a neutral pH balance. Olivia's is my favourite rooting gel, although I've tried many and they all work. I find that just soaking the tray before planting is usually sufficient to sustain the cuttings until they are rooted.
There are a number of nutritional additives that may be added to this soaking, but my experience is that they are not essential. You might try Spray & Thrive, Nutriboost, Powerthrive, Superthrive, Olivia's cloning solution, a mild seaweed solution, or a plethora of other products. Plain water works well too.
after cutting care
When the tray feels light water it. If the plants look dry, mist them. Check the bottom for roots after three days. Some strains will root this fast, while others may take up to ten days, or even two weeks. When roots are showing out of the sides and bottom of the medium it is time to transplant them into whatever medium you choose to grow them in.
Generally, your medium will be a pot with a well drained soil mixture, or one of any number of soilless cultures. The latter are definitely an improvement over soil when it comes to speed of production and overall yield, but it is much easier to grow marijuana in soil.
It is not that difficult to set up and operate a hydroponic system, but one detail like a faulty irrigation timer can cause devastation if not immediately corrected.
The hydroponic solution must be monitored closely and kept balanced, while a well prepared soil solution may not need any additional fertilizers for the entire life of the plant. As long as you water the soil when it gets dry the plant will thrive and be happy.
Soil-grown pot is considered by many to have a more palatable taste than hydroponically grown herb, but there are always exceptions to such rules. Some growers get the best of both worlds by experimenting with organic hydroponics, but most use basic stock solutions that contain fertilizer salts in a readily available form. These salts are easy to administer in tried-and-true formulas, but the problem is that these stock solutions tend to leave a metallic taste in the precious produce. Experienced growers know to leach their plants before harvest to remove residual salts from the buds, but it appears that few bother to leach sufficiently for a truly clean, pure taste.
A milder feed solution will prevent the build-up of excess fertilizer salts in the bud. Leaching time varies from grower to grower, from two days to two weeks. Some use plain or distilled water, others simply use a very diluted feed solution.
clones are fantastic
Whatever grow system you use, you are bound to use clones sooner or later. They can greatly improve the efficiency of your growing area, and are a fantastic way to preserve your favourite plants.
An exceptional plant can be rejuvenated and cloned even after it has flowered and been harvested. If a small amount of vegetative matter is left growing on the bottom of the plant and it is placed under an eighteen hour light cycle then all the little nuggets will stretch into vegetative shoots, which may then be cloned and grown into a full mother plant, which can be cloned indefinitely. This will provide you with many uniform harvests of your favourite plant.
Happy cloning!
[SIZE=+1]By Breeder Steve
of the Spice of Life Seed Co.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]M[/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]any novice growers ask themselves "should I start from seed or should I grow some clones?" It's a good question, and one that deserves serious consideration. [/FONT]of the Spice of Life Seed Co.[/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Growing from clones means that you will harvest more bud sooner. Many people who start a garden these days know someone who will give them a few clones for the simple pleasure of sharing a good thing. Some people sell clones, often growing an exclusively vegetative garden without ever flowering. These clonemeisters keep a variety of select mothers from high-quality strains, and grow them on a continuous eighteen hour light cycle. They can make good money selling trays of cuttings, either rooted or simply fresh cut. Rooted
cuttings versus seeds
Many people opt to purchase a tray of cuttings when starting out, so they get a faster return on their investment. This is sensible, but there is no substitute for learning, and growing from seed teaches you more about the plant. Growing from seed, especially from high numbers of seeds, allows for the selection of a particular plant that best suits your needs.
I always tell people who start from seed to be sure to take two clones from the bottom of each plant just before putting the plants into flower. These clones should be labeled with the same number as the mother plant from which it was taken, as well as the date it was cut. Keep those clones alive!
When you see which plant produces the best buds and is most worthy of your precious grow space, take the corresponding clones and grow them large under your metal halide on an eighteen hour light cycle. Your next crop can be all cuttings from your favourite plant. This harvest will be much more uniform than the last one, and this will improve the quality and quantity of your yield.
If you grow you should eventually cut and root your own clones. There are many ways to take clones, and I am going to share the simple procedure that I use to take mine. It's easy to do, especially once you get a feel for it.
how to take the cutting
To get started you will need: a clean razor blade, a water mister, a tray with a clear plastic lid, a planting medium, and perhaps a jar of rooting hormone. Clones can be effectively rooted using nothing more than water, however most growers choose to dip their freshly cut stem into either a rooting powder or a gel.
Many growers cut the branch underwater so that no air bubbles will form in the stem of the new cutting. If air enters the stem it will prevent the stem from carrying water and the cutting will die. Dipping the cut end of the stem immediately into a rooting gel also solves the air bubble problem. If using a powder the cuttings must be wet so that the powder will adhere.
Use a toothpick or a nail to poke a hole in the planting medium, to ease the entry of the cut stem. It is important not to crush or bend the tender stem at all. Try and make the hole about the same size as the stem to be inserted.
When you have your tools and accessories ready and have soaked your medium, you should select a soft, small branch from the bottom of the plant, one that wouldn't amount to much anyway. If you are planning to keep the plant in vegetative growth to continue taking cuttings then you should take cuttings from any shoots that have two or three nodes. I take cuttings that are between two and four inches long, but some people prefer to take cuttings as long as eight inches.
The stem will root quickly if it is still soft and green, not woody. Make an even, diagonal slice through the branch with your clean razor, below the would-be cutting. Strip the bottom leaves off of the cutting, dip it in rooting gel and plant it.
If you make your cut right above a node on the branch then two new branches will sprout out as if it had been pinched. If you continue in this fashion then your mother will produce an exponential number of cuttings every two weeks. You will soon be proudly giving clones away to your friends (or maybe Sell them).
how to root your cuttings
So now you've cut and dipped your first batch of clones, stuck them in a medium, misted them, and put the clear plastic lid on the tray. Now put the tray under fluorescent lights, about six inches away to start with, moving them a little closer every few days.
I've rooted clones on the floor in my bedroom, and in many a veg room in the shade of a leafy mother. Both provide decent ambient light and a good temperature range. 24¡C is optimum temperature, but my experience is that as long as it's close to that it'll do. The clones must be warm but not scorched. Direct light will burn them because without roots the stem cannot supply the leaves with enough water to match the leaves' rate of transpiration.
Transpiration is a part of how the plant grows. Water and nutrients travel up the stem from the roots to the leaves, where they are used in photosynthesis. Tiny hairs called stomata sweat out the moisture to allow the stream of nutrients to continue flowing. Wind aids in transpiration by blowing the moisture off the stomata, which is why the lid is so important.
Another way to protect the stomata is to spray a light wax onto the cuttings. This slows transpiration to the point where you don't even need a lid, and the waxy coating serves as a protection against pests. I suggest you just try using a lid at first.
Remove the lid once a day and fan the cuttings with it for a few seconds. I also like to cut small holes into the corners of the lid so that there is a little ventilation, and I usually put holes into the corners of the tray to allow for drainage if the plants are over-watered. The roots need oxygen to thrive and survive.
supplements & supplies
Oasis Foam is my favourite medium because it is so airy and quick to dry, and it has the added bonus of having a neutral pH balance. Olivia's is my favourite rooting gel, although I've tried many and they all work. I find that just soaking the tray before planting is usually sufficient to sustain the cuttings until they are rooted.
There are a number of nutritional additives that may be added to this soaking, but my experience is that they are not essential. You might try Spray & Thrive, Nutriboost, Powerthrive, Superthrive, Olivia's cloning solution, a mild seaweed solution, or a plethora of other products. Plain water works well too.
after cutting care
When the tray feels light water it. If the plants look dry, mist them. Check the bottom for roots after three days. Some strains will root this fast, while others may take up to ten days, or even two weeks. When roots are showing out of the sides and bottom of the medium it is time to transplant them into whatever medium you choose to grow them in.
Generally, your medium will be a pot with a well drained soil mixture, or one of any number of soilless cultures. The latter are definitely an improvement over soil when it comes to speed of production and overall yield, but it is much easier to grow marijuana in soil.
It is not that difficult to set up and operate a hydroponic system, but one detail like a faulty irrigation timer can cause devastation if not immediately corrected.
The hydroponic solution must be monitored closely and kept balanced, while a well prepared soil solution may not need any additional fertilizers for the entire life of the plant. As long as you water the soil when it gets dry the plant will thrive and be happy.
Soil-grown pot is considered by many to have a more palatable taste than hydroponically grown herb, but there are always exceptions to such rules. Some growers get the best of both worlds by experimenting with organic hydroponics, but most use basic stock solutions that contain fertilizer salts in a readily available form. These salts are easy to administer in tried-and-true formulas, but the problem is that these stock solutions tend to leave a metallic taste in the precious produce. Experienced growers know to leach their plants before harvest to remove residual salts from the buds, but it appears that few bother to leach sufficiently for a truly clean, pure taste.
A milder feed solution will prevent the build-up of excess fertilizer salts in the bud. Leaching time varies from grower to grower, from two days to two weeks. Some use plain or distilled water, others simply use a very diluted feed solution.
clones are fantastic
Whatever grow system you use, you are bound to use clones sooner or later. They can greatly improve the efficiency of your growing area, and are a fantastic way to preserve your favourite plants.
An exceptional plant can be rejuvenated and cloned even after it has flowered and been harvested. If a small amount of vegetative matter is left growing on the bottom of the plant and it is placed under an eighteen hour light cycle then all the little nuggets will stretch into vegetative shoots, which may then be cloned and grown into a full mother plant, which can be cloned indefinitely. This will provide you with many uniform harvests of your favourite plant.
Happy cloning!
ganjaluvr
Well-Known Member
This guy basically just summed this issue up
for everyone. No further posts needed.. lol.
JK peeps. But.. either way.. hes right.
I thought about doing one of these....
speaking of which.. i need to keep this
female plant that I have growing right now.. whcih also just showed its sex to me three
days ago... being a female plant. I'll take a
clone or two from her when she matures alittle more.
hm... well cya.
Peace.
?'y sure!'
can you clone with just 1 fan leaf i hate cutting them off and wasting them?
FreeLeaf
Active Member
I started reading this thread and had to chime in.
I have cloned 100's of plants (not all have been MJ) and it really is quite simple.
I took a couple of cuttings from my plants that are going into 12/12 next week. I took the small leaf clusters from the bottom of the plants for 2 reasons. One is they probably would not produce any bud since they are buried in the canopy and two because the bottom growth has more of the rooting hormones.
You just snip about 1.5 inches below the leaf cluster. then you scrape the bottom inch of the stalk. Then you cross cut the bottom of the stalk. By that I mean you take a sterile blade and you start at the bottom of the stalk and slice up 1/2 inch. slicing it in half length ways. Then you can slice the bottom of the stalk in 4th's if their big enough. then you soak the bottom of the stalk in some PH CORRECT water, dip it in some rooting powder. then you soak your rockwool cube in some PH CORRECT water for about 5 seconds. Then just stick that puppy in the little hole of the cube and keep it moist ! The pics below were cut about 48 hours ago and they are doing just fine. 1 thing to remember is that the cutting you take will match the plant you are taking it from. So if the mother is in a flowering cycle, then your cutting is also in a flower cycle. If this is the case keep your light on 24/24 at first to reverse the flowering. If you are going to lollipop your clones (go straight to 12/12) it is best to take your cuttings from a mature mother. That means you have a mature clone believe it or not. This simple method works with a lot of different types of plants. You just adjust your PH for the species of plant you are cloning.
I have cloned 100's of plants (not all have been MJ) and it really is quite simple.
I took a couple of cuttings from my plants that are going into 12/12 next week. I took the small leaf clusters from the bottom of the plants for 2 reasons. One is they probably would not produce any bud since they are buried in the canopy and two because the bottom growth has more of the rooting hormones.
You just snip about 1.5 inches below the leaf cluster. then you scrape the bottom inch of the stalk. Then you cross cut the bottom of the stalk. By that I mean you take a sterile blade and you start at the bottom of the stalk and slice up 1/2 inch. slicing it in half length ways. Then you can slice the bottom of the stalk in 4th's if their big enough. then you soak the bottom of the stalk in some PH CORRECT water, dip it in some rooting powder. then you soak your rockwool cube in some PH CORRECT water for about 5 seconds. Then just stick that puppy in the little hole of the cube and keep it moist ! The pics below were cut about 48 hours ago and they are doing just fine. 1 thing to remember is that the cutting you take will match the plant you are taking it from. So if the mother is in a flowering cycle, then your cutting is also in a flower cycle. If this is the case keep your light on 24/24 at first to reverse the flowering. If you are going to lollipop your clones (go straight to 12/12) it is best to take your cuttings from a mature mother. That means you have a mature clone believe it or not. This simple method works with a lot of different types of plants. You just adjust your PH for the species of plant you are cloning.
