I grew it outdoors, it was about seven feet at harvest time, I don't think I would grow this strain indoors.
No I use this
Yes I have run several foggers, the heat is minimal though.
Last time I used foggers I built a small set-up for a med patient. It was a 30gal rubbermaid, an air stone, 12 3" net pots and one small fogger.
Not sure what you mean by "Nodes?" I run the foggers 24/7. No recirculation, just a rubbermaid tub it is more of a DWC/aero cross, see above post.
I wish I had a pic, currently I am not running an indoor grow. I have done a wide range of hydro grows though. From small closet set ups to large indoor set ups. My favorite set up was VERY similar to Al B's in Manhattan. Four flood tables for a perpetual harvest. Two 1000w hps.
Very small indoor grow. I just finished an outdoor grow and it yielded 6.5 lbs dry. I am going to be moving again soon so i don't want anything large. My small winter grow will be Trainwreck from Greenhouse. I am just going to use a homebox xs and stick with soil and a air cooled 400w HPS. My hydro equipment is still packed in boxes in one of those POD's and I don't want to spend the money to have the POD delivered because I can't even make use of all that equipment with my current living conditions.
If set up and managed properly there should be no difference in yield between systems. Aeroponic systems make it hard to achieve the same plant density you can in an ebb and flow, the benefit is the increased vigor you get with aero.
I really like flood tables for their ease of use, but if you want to grow trees check out the bucket system.
Still not sure what you mean by watering system but nothing beats a flood table as far as simplicity and ease of operation.
No worries bro I've been smoking that haze myself
Ok I got you now
I prefer flood tables myself, yield will be more dependent on plant size (veg time), strain, and how well you manage your grow.
Depends on the size of the plants, I think you could easily get an oz off each plant. The smallest "pot size" I would recommend would be 6" rockwool cubes placed directly on the table and covered in plastic. The downside to doing this is you can not move your plants once the roots become entangled. If you used 8" pots you should be able to fit at least 20-22 plants on a 3x3 table. If you are doing smaller clones you can go with higher plant numbers and get a higher over all yield. If you use larger clones you can have less plants and get more yield per plant (probably closer to the oz pre plant you are looking for). Trade offs with each . . .
For sure bro
Yes that is why I cover the cubes with panda plastic and just cut holes for the stems. No need for hydroton, did an ak-47/white widow grow with the 6" cubes. You will have to run string between the plants to tie them for support however because the rockwool cubes will not support them very well past 1ft of growth.
Hey there, NewGrowth!! Great thread you've started---and I am learning a lot from your conversation with flipsides!
Just a thick plastic used to line grow room walls, floor, ect. It is black on one side and white on the other to prevent any light penetration.
Go for it bro. There are trade offs with each system, aero/NFT systems tend to get clogged a lot and have to be closely monitored, also if you have a power failure your plants could die within hours if not hand watered.
You are correct rockwool holds a lot of water and can easily become over saturated. Once the plants get larger and the roots migrate out of the rockwool cubes it becomes less of a problem. For small clones in rockwool only I flood the table once a day right after lights on and only flood to about 1/2" up the cubes. When the plants get larger up to twice a day during lights on only and still just 1/2" up the 6" cubes. It also depends on the number of plants in a 4x4 tray for the AK-47/White Widow grow we packed close to 50 plants onto a 4x4 tray with 6" cubes. When the plants matured we were flooding much more often and for longer periods as the plants quickly sucked up the water. I prefer to run pots with hydroton and rockwool however because you can move your plants around. I am going to look into using fytocell next time around though.
Depends on the fans static pressure. Some fans such as duct boosters have low static pressure and can only push air through short lengths of duct. Blower type fans have a higher static pressure and can move air through longer lengths of duct work. CFM rating alone is not enough to determine. I have found carbon filters work better when you pull air through them rather than push.
Here is a good chart Can Fan - Inline Fans the problem is I am not a mechanical engineer and I have no idea how to estimate how much static pressure is created by your filter and all that duct work. I can tell you that from that chart can fans are able to handle pretty high levels of static pressure (.5" is getting high) without too much reduction in airflow. Your 270 cfm fan only drops to 185 cfm at .5". With that knowledge (once agin not a mechanical engineer here
) I would assume that your fan would be effective in cooling up to two 1000 w lights even with the filter and all that duct work attached. Just a semi-educated guess though 
Your carbon filter alone will not handle the smell? Carbon filters are by far the most effective means of eliminating odors. Ozone is close behind.
