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FranJan

Well-Known Member
I am looking to upgrage from CFL to a LED. I have a Secret Jardin 60x60x140 what wattage LED full spectrum would be the best to use and produce a decent yeild?... I was looking at purchasing a 300 Watt LED would this be to powerful for the space that i have to use?... :-?
If heat, stealth and price are a concern then a 300W budget panel is a bit of a crap shoot if not completely wrong for you. There are DIY threads around here to help people make lights, this is something you should be looking into. You don't need drill or solder. Very simple, very effective lights that are probably your best bet for smaller spaces. Hans panels 65w and A51 W100 would be good companies to start with too if you're really not into the DIY stuff but for your space some Veros or CREE CoBs would rock.

I wonder when Lumigrow are gonna update there pro series for a bigger footprint?
Call them up and tell them you are going to start a MMJ business. If they don't hang up on you, (and they probably will), ask the guy they transfer you to.
 

Induction87

Active Member
@az2000

Hola AZ. I was looking at PAR38 leds online and found these, have you seen them? CREE XR-E diodes, 24w, 3000 and 6500 Kelvin, 60 deg spread, $40-45 and free shipping. Fucking love Amazon. Btw, are you an engineer or have a tech background? Your writeups read like lab reports, detailed and well organized. Cheers!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CDACYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1422147756&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51OORgLLpPL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/ECO-LITE-Power-PAR38-60Deg-Daylight/dp/B00DCJ2MVG
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I was looking at PAR38 leds online and found these, have you seen them? CREE XR-E diodes, 24w, 3000 and 6500 Kelvin, 60 deg spread, $40-45 and free shipping.
Those don't look like a good deal compared to the Cree PAR38 spot/flood at Home Depot. For LEDs that are pointing out (not inside a reflector like the Cree), I think it should be better than that. It says 24w, that's the total diode capability (12x2w chips). I don't see anything about how much wattage it actually draws. And then it costs > $40.

For $25 the Cree PAR38 looks like a better deal. 18w actual draw, 1500 lumens. 83 lumens/watt.

XR-E was released in 2007. XB-D in 2012. I'm not sure which LED Cree's PAR38 uses, but I'm sure it's XB-D like used in the "lightbulbs." Or, XT-E which is even better and was used in the "lightbulbs" initially.
 

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
Bulb replacements have a small built in driver, it's usually less efficient and much much more likely to fail. Just don't expect them to last as well as COB + driver options.
 

Induction87

Active Member
Those don't look like a good deal compared to the Cree PAR38 spot/flood at Home Depot. For LEDs that are pointing out (not inside a reflector like the Cree), I think it should be better than that. It says 24w, that's the total diode capability (12x2w chips). I don't see anything about how much wattage it actually draws. And then it costs > $40.

For $25 the Cree PAR38 looks like a better deal. 18w actual draw, 1500 lumens. 83 lumens/watt.

XR-E was released in 2007. XB-D in 2012. I'm not sure which LED Cree's PAR38 uses, but I'm sure it's XB-D like used in the "lightbulbs." Or, XT-E which is even better and was used in the "lightbulbs" initially.

Oh I thought the CREE was $35. And the XR-E is a 4w max, according to their website, so 24 must be the actual draw. And they put out 1600 lumens, which yeah is still less efficient, but it would be nice if we could compare umols. Philips actually publishes the umol output of their PAR38 but it's not that great. I think their 19.5w only puts out 15 umols. Their green power flowering led lamp does better, but it's super pricy.
 
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Pantar

Member
Hello guys,
Im new to the forum, been growing on HPS for many years now, im changing to LED mostly due to the heat and power bill. I wish i had found this forum a couple days ago.

I already got a "Mars II 1200w" i chose it because it had some good reviews and the cost per watt (600w) was the best of their series, im not sure if i bought a good LED, what would be the equivalent on HPS and what growing area you think fits best? Anyone knows whats the % ambient heat reduction compared to HPS (its 5W LEDs)?

Im still learning about all the different LED lights. What do you think about this one?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Professional-design-high-power-cob-600w-indoor-led-grow-lights-full-spectrum-for-greenhouse-hydroponics-systems/1692503921.html
Its supposed to be half the price for another day, but im not sure if its just a trick and the regular price is not that high, if anyone wants to check im sure you will know if its a good buy or not ;)

Im also going to check the DIY and create one for myself just for the heck of it, its just awesome! How much % you can save with DIY?

Thanks!
 
Hey guys, my tent currently has 1000w HPS 600w MH in 8x8 feet and I'm wanting to round it off with like a 400-600w LED panel, what is a good fairly priced LED lamp in that range?
 

Induction87

Active Member
Hey guys, my tent currently has 1000w HPS 600w MH in 8x8 feet and I'm wanting to round it off with like a 400-600w LED panel, what is a good fairly priced LED lamp in that range?
Area 51 and Onyx make reasonably priced units, less than $3 per watt, and are known to be decent to great. They use CREE diodes and good bins, but they only make smaller units, so you would have to get 2 or more.

Advanced LED makes a 350w unit (DS XTE 400) with XT-E and Osram diodes, but they are $3-4/w. And the advertised coverage area is a bit overstated.

Of course dollars per watt is not the only metric you should be looking at. Some lights are more efficient than others. Some get better coverage with more even PAR distribution. It really depends on what you're trying to do. If you run SOG then a lower intensity (500-600 PPFD) broad spreading light like an illumitex or BML horticulture would be great. But if you have trees, you need something with more intensity, maybe 1000 PPFD, if you want to make it a few feet down.

What do you want to put under it? How many plants in what space with what method? How long will they veg? Stuff like that will dictate the light you need.
 

Induction87

Active Member
Hello guys,
Im new to the forum, been growing on HPS for many years now, im changing to LED mostly due to the heat and power bill. I wish i had found this forum a couple days ago.

I already got a "Mars II 1200w" i chose it because it had some good reviews and the cost per watt (600w) was the best of their series, im not sure if i bought a good LED, what would be the equivalent on HPS and what growing area you think fits best? Anyone knows whats the % ambient heat reduction compared to HPS (its 5W LEDs)?

Im still learning about all the different LED lights. What do you think about this one?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Professional-design-high-power-cob-600w-indoor-led-grow-lights-full-spectrum-for-greenhouse-hydroponics-systems/1692503921.html
Its supposed to be half the price for another day, but im not sure if its just a trick and the regular price is not that high, if anyone wants to check im sure you will know if its a good buy or not ;)

Im also going to check the DIY and create one for myself just for the heck of it, its just awesome! How much % you can save with DIY?

Thanks!
If it's drawing 600w put it over a 4x4 and raise it high enough so that the light covers the edges well, a reflective tent and a light meter would help.

That light you posted is like buying the Wal-Mart brand, except from China. Will it work? Sure until it breaks. Except at Walmart you can take it back; try that with Shenzhen. They are notorious for not honoring warranties. They also use low end chips and drivers, so you're not getting as much light as you would with a better made unit.

As far as the heat, I'm still not real sure on that myself. Maybe someone else can and help both of us. I think it has to do with the fact that HPS produces a lot of IR we usually don't see on spectrographs. I think most of them have a big spike out in the 800nm range that LEDs do not. When LEDs first hit the market they used only red and blue light. The argument was that HPS and metal halide produce a lot of green and yellow light that plants don't use. So even though LEDs were only about 20% efficient at converting energy into ligh and HPS is like 40% or more, they produced a lot more usable light, PAR, per watt. And wasted light that is not absorbed creates heat every time it is reflected. Then people started reading scientific articles about plants and realized that there are lots of wavelengths that are used, just in smaller quantities. Or are less efficient in photosynthesis for different chlorophylls carotenoids etc. So now all the major led companies are using white LEDs to fill in the spectrum; some companies use only white LEDs.

It's basically a big marketing thing. In the end, only experimentation will tell.
 
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JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
If heat, stealth and price are a concern then a 300W budget panel is a bit of a crap shoot if not completely wrong for you. There are DIY threads around here to help people make lights, this is something you should be looking into. You don't need drill or solder. Very simple, very effective lights that are probably your best bet for smaller spaces. Hans panels 65w and A51 W100 would be good companies to start with too if you're really not into the DIY stuff but for your space some Veros or CREE CoBs would rock.


Call them up and tell them you are going to start a MMJ business. If they don't hang up on you, (and they probably will), ask the guy they transfer you to.
That's funny he did hang up!!
 

Pantar

Member
If it's drawing 600w put it over a 4x4 and raise it high enough so that the light covers the edges well, a reflective tent and a light meter would help.

That light you posted is like buying the Wal-Mart brand, except from China. Will it work? Sure until it breaks. Except at Walmart you can take it back; try that with Shenzhen. They are notorious for not honoring warranties. They also use low end chips and drivers, so you're not getting as much light as you would with a better made unit.

As far as the heat, I'm still not real sure on that myself. Maybe someone else can and help both of us. I think it has to do with the fact that HPS produces a lot of IR we usually don't see on spectrographs. I think most of them have a big spike out in the 800nm range that LEDs do not. When LEDs first hit the market they used only red and blue light. The argument was that HPS and metal halide produce a lot of green and yellow light that plants don't use. So even though LEDs were only about 20% efficient at converting energy into ligh and HPS is like 40% or more, they produced a lot more usable light, PAR, per watt. And wasted light that is not absorbed creates heat every time it is reflected. Then people started reading scientific articles about plants and realized that there are lots of wavelengths that are used, just in smaller quantities. Or are less efficient in photosynthesis for different chlorophylls carotenoids etc. So now all the major led companies are using white LEDs to fill in the spectrum; some companies use only white LEDs.

It's basically a big marketing thing. In the end, only experimentation will tell.
Thanks for the reply, had to start somewhere and some people showed good results with this models and the price wasnt prohibitive. Im looking into DIY now, whats the %$ difference between buying it and DYI with the same components? Im just worried that if i just weld few lights into a heatsink will miss some of the "science" manufacturers put into their products and it wont just get the same results.
 

leisuree

Member
i think i settled on the onyx bloom but im not sure how well it will veg. the rw-150 has a mixture of both blue and red spectrums but the onyx bloom is cheaper and has more watts. any advice if im only going to buy one light for the full cycle?
 

leisuree

Member
on second thought i can just make my own light with the LEDs listed below. it came out to be $410 for everything i would need from rapid LED. i think the spectrum would be good for both veg and flowering.
what do you guys think?

 

mc130p

Well-Known Member
on second thought i can just make my own light with the LEDs listed below. it came out to be $410 for everything i would need from rapid LED. i think the spectrum would be good for both veg and flowering.
what do you guys think?

Best bet would be some veros I think.. Probably cheaper and definitely fewer parts. I can't tell you a lot about them though, but others around here can... I hope they chime in.
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
on second thought i can just make my own light with the LEDs listed below. it came out to be $410 for everything i would need from rapid LED. i think the spectrum would be good for both veg and flowering.
what do you guys think?


MC has it right,do a DIY with CXA or Vero COB's,3000k for flower and 5000k for veg. Your design also has way too much 660 nm.
 

rezball

Member
As far as AREA 51, I was wondering is there a whole new light fixture thats supposed to be released soon or is it just upgraded led's to be used on the existing fixtures?
 

D_Urbmon

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I'm in the market for an LED light. Looking for something to illuminate 4x3 area for flowering but I have no clue where to begin looking. My head is spinning already. I'd highly prefer not to DIY as I have little to no electrical knowledge but I am wondering if that just might be the best route. I love value. With time and patience I am confident I would be capable provided I do the research but I am really hoping to have the light for about 4-5 weeks from now. To DIY this thing is a whole new monster which I would like to avoid.

How much could I possibly save by doing a DIY vs purchasing a pre made unit?

If I decide to purchase a premade unit, what companies should I start looking at? The only 2 I know of is Mars Hydro and Advanced LED. The differences in prices and specs of the units they offer are so different I have no clue.

The only thing I think I am certain of is that I want 5w diodes instead of 3w? Please correct me if that is wrong.
 
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