Induction Lights? The newest (supposedly) technology in Induction Grow Lights

seems to me this bio-sonic light is more of a pain that it's worth. One of the several reasons i went with the induction was to get away from changing bulbs and heat issues, and with this lamp one would have possible moisture issues and buy an add on reflector or build one...all for the low price of $360.00 with shipping... no thanks. but an interesting read
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That's $360.00 with only one of the two lamps you're going to need. Not sure what the second lamp is going to cost and how easy it is to change out.

As to the video I also find it interesting that they can grow such nice plants from so far off the canopy.
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Interesting would be one way to put it. These are flowering greenhouses where they are alternating red/green at about a 30' on center spacing @ what looks to be 15' above the canopy. In addition to their new greenhouse lights it looks like they have found a revolutionary way to apply physics to plant photobiology.
 
Chaz,
Did you notice that in the video at 1.25 mins way back in the green house thier are not even using those lights. Looks like hps to me. And that Debbie Gibson techno shit in the background,come on now this just seems super cheesy. Kinda reminds me of one of those tv commercials you might see at 3am
 
Seriously Ganja I can only handle one pass at these kind of vids. I've done 7 greenhouse supplemental lighting jobs now with Inda-Gro Daylight Harvester lights. One was in Canada. There is no way in hell that even a 420 at 15 ft above the canopy is going to add more than 0.5 Mol/day which means you might as well not even have supplemental lighting unless they can contribute < 5 Mol's/day/M-sq to the DLI. The maximum lamp:canopy spacing we got away with was 8ft over a M-sq.
 
What can you guys tell me about Tom Vilsack @ the USDA? His CV makes it look like he'd have the cape and the big S going on. What's the real deal with Mr. V?
 
chazbolin said:
If you were to purchase these lamp/drivers consider this;
1) You'll have to build a housing with reflector for these since all the light off the sides of the lamps is lost to the canopy.
2) The driver housing is not IP65 which lends itself to moisture building up on the components.
3) They ask you to buy both a veg and a flowering lamp.
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4) I believe they are using a magnetic (110V~277V, 50/60 Hz) ballast vs Inda-gro's digital 2.65 MHz High Frequency Generator (driver / ballast)
 
Chaz and G farmer,
Over all the years I've been farming, coupled with my minor in horticulture at a major research university and working in the greenhouses we could never come up with a grow as great as that video depicts. Apparently they're onto something in the private sector that is far more advanced than a research university in regards to artificial lighting...hahaha.
If they played that music in the greenhouse the plants would surly die. :spew: I'll stick to my inda-gro 420s. I'm all for low maintenance and keeping the door to my chambers shut as much as possible. I was reluctant for years to even join this forum but I started to find a lot if it very comical and some informative thus far. I did start my first thread, (post) whatever you call it, regarding induction lighting, and posted one photo but have had just a few responses.
 
chazbolin said:
Unlike igrow who neglected to show the Hg peaks on their spectral distribution graphs @ least these guys got the Mercury spikes right. While there are now literally dozens of Chinese companies that have laid claim to manufacturing plant lighting lamps/drivers/fixtures I'll keep my comments to this new brand.

If you were to purchase these lamp/drivers consider this;
1) You'll have to build a housing with reflector for these since all the light off the sides of the lamps is lost to the canopy.
2) The driver housing is not IP65 which lends itself to moisture building up on the components.
3) They ask you to buy both a veg and a flowering lamp.

ahh fuckit I couldn't resist. Here's another one:

Fat Doobie to the first one that posts up what wrong with this product especially referring to the greenhouse at 0.48 into the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73cLRRcvXsM
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upon reading their site it seems they are trying to get people with light setups already to upgrade to these using their present hoods etc. as long as you have one of those useless huge xxxl pos then their point is moot....my main problem at first glance with any induction is the huge size and weight....lotsa weight and size to deal with in something that doesn't perform any better or IMO worse that what I have already that is light and small in the first place...
 
natro.hydro said:
I definitely do not hate those lights. That red shift is something I could see putting in the more mature part of my perpetual flowering tent I want to put an inda-gro in. If they are all about the par how come they do not throw a u/mole reading at you? I didn't even see canopy coverage except a pic on the sellers site that says its does not work after 12" away.

Was I the only one confused by the structure of that table expalining how they are better than hid?
And the ballast choice throws me off a lil too, since the one model only has a 2 year warranty, and those are the only ballast for the 250w.... But I do like the look of those graphs, can not lie about that.

I guess I just do not understand the need for all the variance they have, I kinda like how simplified inda-gro has it with you just picking wattage, bottom line I will prob contact a sales rep, but they better dazzle me to really get me to look at anything other than that red shift. And speaking of that the sales site they point you too(allieshift.com) says nothing about that bulb at all and only are selling the 200 from what I could find!! Idk prob still go with inda gro for simplicity and that decade warranty, but if it can do some crazy shit in flower (redshift) might have too grab, anyone else see something that would void any of what i just said ?
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umole has nothing to do with par..and again par is bullshit as well...I can give you some baddass par readings with blue leds...it is only a different set point for the light meters that tries to flatten out the reading to the entire visible spectrum rather than the center of it as with ftc...and IMO more sciency jargon to convince you this tech is better etc... I am tired of charts graphs and sciency lingo...show me some fucking plants...and more than 2 or three grows ...
that are ACTUALLY grown by them...not grown under hid then pretend it was leds like that asshat was doing
 
chazbolin said:
Seriously Ganja I can only handle one pass at these kind of vids. I've done 7 greenhouse supplemental lighting jobs now with Inda-Gro Daylight Harvester lights. One was in Canada. There is no way in hell that even a 420 at 15 ft above the canopy is going to add more than 0.5 Mol/day which means you might as well not even have supplemental lighting unless they can contribute < 5 Mol's/day/M-sq to the DLI. The maximum lamp:canopy spacing we got away with was 8ft over a M-sq.
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Points scored for hid as this is the normal placement for them in these applications

sativex-grow-factory.jpg


And I am pretty confident that this operation knows what the fuck they are doing
 
Another...go after it

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ibeam (#BPI300)
Induction Grow Light
The first and only induction grow light engineered from the ground up with the gardener in mind.
  • FEATURES:
  • Utilizes a proprietary plastic housing on an aluminum backbone.
  • Runs at a cool 215° compared to HID systems (app. 720°).
  • 94% reflective interior.
  • PAR readings of 2000 at the bulb and 765 at a distance of 12"
  • Bulbs are easily replaceable without requiring any tools.
  • Incorporates hot restrike technology.
  • Lightweight and "tentable" at a mere 15 pounds.
  • Water resistant ballast box.
  • Made in the USA using renewable energy from green resources.


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Benefits of the ibeam&#8482;
ibeam&#8482; induction grow lights provide the best single-source horticultural lighting for maximum growth and yields. The color frequency for the entire growth cycle is covered so there is no need to change out light sources for vegetative or flowering. Induction lights also provide maximum canopy penetration. Compared to other types of grow lights, ibeam&#8482; induction grow lights are also very long lasting (up to 60,000 hours) with minimum lumen depreciation. The ibeam&#8482; is very easy to set up and does not require any maintenance.
Cool Running
The ibeam&#8482; has an exceptionally cool operating temperature with a maximum fixture temperature of 500F less than a comparable 600 watt HPS lamp. There is no need to purchase and pay to operate expensive light cooling systems.
Energy Efficient
Lower wattage requirements for PAR usable light saves between 60-70% of the energy consumed by lamp technologies such as HID. There is also a low startup inrush amperage of 2.2 amps or less compared to nearly 7 amps for most 600 watt HPS systems. Low initial amperage demand means more lights can be run off existing wiring without the need for expensive electrical upgrades.Power Savings Calculator
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Polymer Reflector
The ibeam&#8482; reflector is designed to perform optimally in today&#8217;s demanding indoor gardening environments. It tips the scales at a scant 15 lbs for all components. This makes it ideal for tents and greenhouses where weight can be a factor. It is very easy to install.
IBEAM CONSTRUCTION​
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IBEAM INTEGRATION​
Quantity Required
When incorporating ibeam&#8482; induction lights into your garden, plan on each light effectively lighting the area of a single 4 foot by 4 foot propagation tray.

Watts Required
When replacing existing HID lighting systems, plan on 2 300 watt ibeam&#8482; induction lights per 1000 watts. Induction lighting provides more effective PAR per watt than HID so fewer watts are required.

Power Required
2.2 amps or less initial amperage demand.
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INDUCTION INFORMATION​
How Induction Lighting Works
Induction lights rely on the fundamental principles of electromagnetic induction and gas discharge to create light. When energy is applied to the ferrite cores(inductors) located at each end of the glass tube, a very strong magnetic field is produced which travels through the glass and accelerates free electrons. The electrons then collide with mercury atoms and are excited. As the excited electrons fall back from their higher energy state to a lower stable level, they emit ultraviolet radiation. The UV radiation created is then converted to visible light as it passes through a phosphor coating on the inside of the tube. Since there are no filaments or electrodes to burn out, induction lights have an extremely long lifespan.

For some very knowledgeable induction grow light information visit our friends at the Inda-Gro Website.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS​
Physical Properties:

Dimensions:
Height: 9"
Length: 28"
Width: 17.25"

Weight:
15 Pounds

Materials: (reflector)
UV/Heat Resistant Proprietary Polymer
Aluminum
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hey Kite,
can you post a link where you can order this light or at least see the price. I couldn't find a price on the brotherhood site that the "find store" link in your post redirected me too. I also looked at the online partner stores from brotherhood and had no luck. most of the partner links on the brotherhood site did not work. maybe it's my computer. thanks
 
chazbolin said:
What can you guys tell me about Tom Vilsack @ the USDA? His CV makes it look like he'd have the cape and the big S going on. What's the real deal with Mr. V?
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simple..hes a politician that Obamanation owed a favor to so walla...kushy do nothing job
 
Kite High said:
Points scored for hid as this is the normal placement for them in these applications

sativex-grow-factory.jpg


And I am pretty confident that this operation knows what the fuck they are doing
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BUT HID is boring......they just buzz along and do their job quite effectively:-P
 
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