Induction Lights? The newest (supposedly) technology in Induction Grow Lights

Wish this specta would be used for induction light....
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/78/Spectra-Philips_32T8_natural_sunshine_fluorescent_light.svg






Pics of NH21xMM sativa before the induction light.
3-4 monthes 12/12 she was just awfull....





Pic after a few weeks under the new light






Current pic (a month later) Looking lots better.







The mama Nh21xMM is to big for my cab an has been under 145w CMH an sunlight for the last 6 weeks.
The inductuion 400 put bud on the clones much better IMHO.





Drgt C99 x Amnesia haze Auto 21 days flowering





PineApple Express 28 days





80s Nl5xHazeC x Banana Platinum og.
35 days.

Hi Scar! I'm glad you're liking your ladies under induction. Get through the grow and take a hard look at how well they did for you compared to HID options and you may come away happy. But don't be fooled by all induction or phosphor blends are created equal. They are not. The blends are as varied as there are recipes in a cook book. Think of it this way; all lasagna is not created equal nor does it taste the same. Your plants are tasting the light you provide it. They couldn't care less if you paid $300 or $3000 regardless of the source technology or variants within that technology. If your gardens don't produce to your expectations it precisely because there are variants in the technology. As you have pointed out by the spectral distribution graph of the Philips lamp you wish could be created for induction, that blend is a wider variation of a standard BAM triphosphor blend. If I'm not mistaken it was developed to mimic sunlight to enhance office productivity through a better spectral match to human circadian rhythms as if the office worker was outdoors. It is a decent blend as broad spectrum goes but there are better combinations that target higher relative intensities in the 610-640nm ranges for plant net action spectra and that is the blend used in the IG lamps. It is going to be more expensive to specify a blend and have it produced. It's also risky. You have to have complete confidence in the team you're working with. At the end of the day the plants will tell you how your team has done. Ultimately if there are other teams products/blends out there that outperform your teams products/blends then your decision to use whatever it is you're using will be of personal preference/budget and not based on empirical results.

I do believe that paragraph was my record for metaphors.

Mr tony Wu said my Riant light can be remote mounted 5 meters.

Doing so for your own installation may not be an issue but doing so in production represents issues you may not be aware of. I would get it in writing from Mr. Wu that by doing so it will not violate UL or FCC regulations for making this type of adjustment. Perhaps Mr. Wu has a remote ballast kit that has taken these issues into consideration but if not and since you have his ear I would suggest you ask him if he is suggesting that this is a recommended practice for his products and by the customer doing so would not void his warranty?

In theory there is no limitation to the distance you could remote mount the lamp from the ballast. In reality it's critical that the impedance matching characteristics not be altered when doing so. I'd be very surprised if Tony is offering this as a factory option and will warranty damaged drivers if the customer remote mounts the ballast. Get it in writing to make sure they specify precisely what type of wire to use (max distance, awg, teflon coated, insulation, max voltage, max temp...) first before you do this. The reason I bring this up is because the lamp produces more heat on the glass surface 200F (why you don't install EFDL in a cool tube) than the driver 115F and you need the lamp at that temperature to fully vaporize the Hg. The risks with remote mounting of the driver do not make it worth the reward if you're doing so to try and reduce heat in the environment.

Keeping the lamp as close as possible to the driver keeps the ideal impedance match as determined by the factory and reduces rogue RFI signals that are always a possibility when dealing with these frequencies. If not properly grounded and EMI protected the remote driver can create real issues with cell phone and sensitive electronics that may pick up the signal and create disturbances in its normal operations. If you think about it your talking about constructing a 5 meter cable that will be an antennae and if you happen to coil excess cable that is not properly EMI protected it has the potential for creating an air core inductor, another electromagnetic field, that would affect efficiency and reliability. Inda-Gro used to offer it but has ceased doing so. Even with high end CON-EX connectors that locked the systems components in place there were cases where customers disconnected the driver under load and that fries the driver like right now.

There are reasons these are not offered in remote ballasts. It can be done but it should ideally be done by the manufacturer and custom built to the remote distance application. That being said I'm always amazed when the Chinese give such glib answers to what should be detailed and well presented responses to this type of question.

Thanks Chaz,

I did ask tony for specs for DIY (like the Icetron PDF gives in their remote ballest)
or if he sold a kit.
All he said was they didn't sell a kit an it can mounted 5 meters remotely.
Ill ask him if it voids the warrenty and about the problems you presented.


My ballest is already remote mounted to the top of my cab.
The wires were long Enuff from the factory to sit up there.
Whooot!

Has any one ever tried using halogen (or xenon) light to get better red spectranin their flouro grows during flowering?
Here's a pic of the spectra

puffenuff said:

How about iGROW vs. Inda-gro???? That seems like the most important comparison that needs to be done. As someone who is interested in induction lighting, I'd be more interested to know which induction company takes the cake.

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I would like a down to earth no BS no fighting comparison no BS about LED or of HID just strait up induction talk

Doright said:

I would like a down to earth no BS no fighting comparison no BS about LED or of HID just strait up induction talk

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What has not been addressed already in this thread that you are looking for?

Beefbisquit said:

The top link says you need SIX units, to get 1500umoles...

"This means a chamber operating two All-Bright will provide average intensity of approximately 532 µmol/m2/s at a distance of 20” (50cm), and a chamber operating six would deliver approximately 1,595 µmol/m2/s."

My SINGLE AF-240 439W puts out 1700umoles @ 12".

Again, you are an idiot.



The second link the 1000W light puts out 2000umloes, and the 600W light puts out 1100umoles.

More power usage than LED, and less usable light....


Once again, you are an idiot.

The newest, greatest, best Area 51 lights are 145W and put down over 1065umoles. That's over 7.3umoles/watt - beat that efficiency.

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man, I'll tell ya, these sites are going to hell quick, it's always ends with 2 so called experts fighting and saying the opposite of what the other idiot says, 14 threads, 14 fights all ending the same way.

get a grip people, there's more then 1 way to skin a cat, your way, is not the only way, and there are so many other factors to take into consideration.

location in the world, altitude, temperature, the water quality, the ferts used ,size of your pot, the soil you use..too much trimming, too little..and and on it goes..

i swear, everyone under 30 is insane and thinks everyone else is wrong and only they are right.

it's ruining these sites.

get a grip little children we dont give a damn what you think, it''s what you grow that counts.

I think that everyone over 30 insane....im always right....you are wrong (and dont swear)

Hey...welcome to shit fight forums!

Riant 400w induction light still kickn ass.
Group pic of the cab
4-6weeks flowering.




Yall will love this one.
Its a 1990 superskunk f1 from nevils "The seed bank of Holland".
Im prayn it smells like a dead skunks asshole when flowering.

Nah, i'm outa here, better things to do then argue with children...

Apparently not since you keep posting in induction threads about how we are all a bunch of know it alls.... if only we could attain your level of enlightenment...

Patriot have you heard the phrase thats the pot calling the kettle black. 2 wrongs don't make a right. But 2 wrights made an airplane.


Scar that mirror confuses me..lol..... They look dank though.

patriot1776 said:

Nah, i'm outa here, better things to do then argue with children...

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It takes two to actually argue and you're the only one arguing here. About what I don't even know.

I hope you find what your looking for because it's not here.

namaste

Like i said cool as a cucumber lol
edit: just realized this comment pertains to a different thread but I am sure almost everyone reading this atm knows what i mean. and scar plants are looking straight gorgy, really lends credit to what those guys overseas can do, i still like my american warranty though lol

Loonquawl said:

What has not been addressed already in this thread that you are looking for?

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Strait up who's better IGrow Or INDA-GRO

I have skimmed through the thread thoroughly I thought and yet have any thing on IGROW other than the lights are are mfg over sea's????? and there suppousedly American made ok well any thing else???? forget the Dealer and mfg web sight hoopla and the American hoopla and the YouTube videos are the IGROW lights what they claim they are?

No? why not? what makes INDA-GROW so much better?


How is IDA-GROW a better or more cost effective with a special add on Red LED "Pontoon" option is beneficial/and/or needed in flower as compared to to IGROW Bloom bulb?wich can be used for Veg and Flower?

The only one I know that has used both is Spliff.

Id like to know if their ballasts are the same.
Both look like Fjjk lights to me.

Id go with a bloom Igrow or Riant grow light cause they are cheeper.

Strait up who's better IGrow Or INDA-GRO

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If you go to the UL database and type in inda-gro you'll see that inda-gro setup their own board design under UL approval. Then type in igrow. Nothing comes up. So take from that what you will but no legitimate hydro shop would sell a light that did not have UL approval and that approval should list the name, model number of what they're selling or the hydro shop is not looking out for your best interest.

http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/index.html

As to why you would choose the pontoons over a separate flowering lamp as being essentially the same thing would be like comparing a helicopter to a jet. They both fly.

Not having to change induction lamps between veg and flower is the primary difference between these two company's approach. Inda-Gro only uses a single lamp from veg-flower which is fine but if you want to enhance flower the pontoon does what the 'flowering' induction lamp would do if it had a 660nm peak emission and could generate a lights out 730nm exclusive wavelength to trigger the phytochrome switch.

Buy whatever you want based on the best value (cheeper is not correlative to value) from the best information you can find but ultimately it's the plants response that will tell you if you made the right choice. You just gotta listen.