Highhopes99
Active Member
And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions
If you can control the scent of your plants, you'll be able to control the scent of the sulfur, which goes away very quickly once the sulfur in the evaporator re-solidifies. The sulfur vapour will also leave an invisible residue on ALL grow room surfaces, which will kill mould spores anywhere they lay & reduce future re-infection events. You going in & out of the room will always bring in some new ones, but they stand much less a chance of blooming with the inhospitible sulfur vapour residue on everything.i will get a suphar burner in 2 months when i move..but rigth now im in a apt building and the grows in my bedroom...cant risk the management asking why my apt smells so shitty
Change to a fully inorganic nutrient. Problem solved.i run flora nova grow/bloom one part mix and it is supposed to be half/half of organic and synthetic ph stable but the problem is it is very thick almost like mud and leaves my res's very dirty and hell of a time to clean. would you just recommend changing to a full synthetic mix so i could use h202 or what else could i do?? thanks again.
Sounds good.other than the general banter you'll find in any thread(s), i've digested & applied your info to the maximus.
ton of questions, good sir.
tons.
straight to business.
6 months into a new lab setup ...straight SOG ...on ebb tables with square pots & hydroton.
rather than four tables, my space allows me to run three tables on a three week rotation ...using strains that finish in 7 to 9 weeks.
I've seen a few of them. My 'system' as it were can be modified in a number of ways to suit the grower, particularly on scaling.nevertheless, there's a few fellows more than i working through your "system" or variations thereof.
If it works well at 800, do eeeet.too, after so much experimentation in various media, i can't see where/how 1000ppm is necessay when i get excellent results @ 800 to 850ppm max (and that's in weeks 7-9).
I run all tanks in the flowering room at 1000-1100 @ 5.8. I can't be fucked mixing differently for each tank. My new clones don't react badly at all to 1000 from the get-go.on the same note, when i go from the cloner to my first tray at anything over 500ppm my plants look like total shit for days & days on end. i cant see how high nute concentrations help at this stage. comments?
so what do you suggest (in general) as base ppm concentrations for each tray in the rotation? i see someone earlier in this thread notes a friend running 1200ppm from beginning to end, wtf?
I've recently been soaking RW cubes for 24h in plain frech tapwater, no pH correction, no H2O2. Been watering clones with the same.do you clone at the same ph as your first table (weeks 1-2 , 1-3 for me) to make the transition easier?
Too right. If you can't get clones to happen reliably, it all falls down.imo, the art of this entire growing method rests on your ability to bust roots on clones.
If a clone is really setting root well, it'll have about 7-10 'nubs' out of the cube on the same day, as first roots. It can be planted right then. In practise, I tend to wait until I have a full batch of 24 with roots out of the cube before I plant. However, don't let a lot of roots develop outside of the cube before planting. They're not supported with media and are easy to damage or dry out. Planting earlier is better than later.often, you discussed going straight from the cloner to the table. with straight tap water, i'm curious as to the type of root development your plants have/had when they hit the table. are we talking nubs or beards?
Early root development is critical to a thriving plant, full stop. If a plant is thriving, it'll easily get to 36"-40" by wk4. Winnow out poor performers before they go to the flowering room.in SOG, early root development is critical to the amount of strech you'll get (outside of genetics) from any given strain ...yes?
If there's good root development on a thriving plant, vegging is not only unnecessary but problematic as it will induce excessive vertical height & branching. The ideal is a batch of uniformly short plants that have their main bud area in the highest light intensity available.regarding the above question, what do you think about extra veg time for the cuts? i'm finding 2 weeks veg time after rooting has a better overall effect on yeild than anything else i've tried.
I don't use anything but nutes, H2O2 and occasional pH Down.what about additives of any kind?
Be sure to reduce your nutrient ppm or eliminate std nutes altogether for the period that you're using any phosphorus-based bloom additives- which, BTW are the only ones that can possibly work. If I see another beeswax & bullshit bloom booster, I'm going to punch some marketing genius in the brain. It's be the same one who thought that 'power balance' bracelets were a good idea...obviously there's a fixed number of plants i can get on a tray. i've been experimenting with with a low concentration (1/4 recommended) of a popular bloom booster to try & enhance yield.
It ain't so. Happy?Wow, al b fuct say it ain't so.
Really no good.So is the bleach thing really no good?
I'd like to fly to the moon with a propeller beanie.I was set on getting a meter to monitor the chlorine in my res. I was excited about killing all my pathogens with a 5 dollar jug of bleach.
Any slimy feeling on the bottom of the nute tanks? Applying regularly every 3-4 days? Any chance the roots could have been dried out or drowned? I had a timer fail not long back- it was adding a 6 HOUR 'ON' cycle where there should have been none. Pissed me off. It was running in the middle of the night and I wasn't aware it was happening until I had problems with a couple consecutive batches which had run through the tray with the defective timer.My roots turned brown the other day and all my attempts with h202 did not prevent much. I was adding up to 2 ml per liter. ( flood and drain, rock wool pots, flooded once a day when loose half water weight, canna nutes 1000ppm, ph 5.8 but rising daily).
Yep, just plain water.Hey, by the way. So your clones are working better with just yap water. No ph? No h202?
Yes, I still use rooting powder, but the other stuff just wasn't necessary. Works better without.I found mine worked better the same way straight tap water. And a little powder. I thought your old technique was working like clock work?
Yeah, cheers for that. xD Every time I pop in, I DO get a deluge. Hope I can keep up. I really only have a couple of days to put into answering questinos, though- then I'm again going to be off like a prom dress.And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions
heh, thanksHey Al no questions i can think of at the moment. I just wanted to tell you that you're the fuckin man
I would recommend Canna, strangely enough. No, they're not paying me to say that.. but hey, Canna... if you're listening... there's enough room in my garden shed for a few pallets of gold bars.thanks for the answer al i would ask what inorganic line you would recommend but pretty sure i know it would be the canna line up seeings how thats what you are using correct?? think i might give them a go i like the flora nova just to grimy.
Really? I didn't even use any of my 'A' material about rusty nails driven through stems to increase potency...I laughed out loud at the first post. Nice
How are the LED evangelists doing?holy shit Al i'm glad you're here man. i have been pulling my hair in here from the silly shit advice being given out.
35% will do fine. Low strength H2O2 has a stabiliser added (normally sodium silicate) which is not plant friendly. AFAIK, 35% doesn't require stabilliser, but much lower than that does or the shelf life is rather short (about a year).i use my tapwater with 35%H2O2 and chemical ferts in powder form. i never seen any 50% grade.
I know, it's hard to rest when SOMEBODY ON THE INTERNET IS WRONG.i get pissed from the organic bullshit every day and there are few who would jump into threads telling everybody to use bleach instead of h2o2 giving it as a FACT that it's actually better, good luck trying to make things straight in here lmao
Seriously, LED evangelists are like PowerBalance band advocates. "WORKS!" they all yell, until put to the test. When proven wrong, the tune doesn't change. Fuck 'em.yes! the LED evangelists! those are my favorites! i actually analysed their psychology. imagine you have bought a light for like 800-1000$ it will be hard for you to admit that it doesn't work now wouldn't it? worse though is to try convince people to do the same stupid mistake you did lmao up until they swallow their loss and switch to hps they would have convinced a dozen to buy LED all of whom will be telling others to do the same, compounding the inefficiency and the lost efforts. sometimes i ask myself why i even bother, all i care for actually is to have a world with more free weed! haha
I really dislike 'Lucas Formula' because it allows (nay, encourages) extreme NPK ratio imbalances. That's part of what's going on here, causing the severe nute burn appearance. The other part is overwatering. Is there only clay pellets in that pot or is there some other absorbent media in there? Never water in lights-off. Just no need for it.View attachment 1375074View attachment 1375073View attachment 1375072hey al i got some? im new to hydro so il lay it out
1) ebb & grow C.A.P system
2) three weeks in
3) GH nutes useing lucas formula ppms at 800 ph 5.8
4) flooding every 4 hours once during dark but im stoping that today
5) thought there was nitrogen def but i added some with no change
i also added cal-mad thinking that might be it no change
kinda lost al need some help running outa hair to pull lol
Too right. Any decent quality hydroponic nutrient has everything plants need. What appears to be nute deficiencies are almost always some other fuckup.I would like to add one to the fucked up world of hydroponics on-line
deficiencies - You shouldn't have them
Yup.All these people running around trying to pick the right def from that useless thing skype's guide, skype? Snype? Sniggles? What ever. get the right ppm/ec and shut up about deficiencies.
i would not trust my city to provide me with the right amount of nutrients for my plants. if u use an RO system, u KNOW u have a baseline of zero(or very close), and can add however much nutes u NEED accordingly. if i were to add nutes to my regular tap water, wouldnt it have a ton of Ca and Mg in it?* Chlorinated municipal tap water is fine for hydroponics. Fancy water filtration systems are completely unnecessary. Chlorine, in the amounts applied by muni water treatment plants, is completely harmless to plants and people. ]High TDS readings from 'hard' water are caused primarily by dissolved minerals like Ca and Mg, both of which are necessary micronutrients. Any water suitable for drinking is excellent for hydroponics. The only reason one would ever have to ever use expensive RO or filtration systems is if one is sourcing water from a local bore/well, where water may contain high levels of salinity or sulfur. In 25 years of growing dope, I've never once seen tapwater from a municipal system cause problems in a hydroponic grow op.