It's A Fuct World

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
i will get a suphar burner in 2 months when i move..but rigth now im in a apt building and the grows in my bedroom...cant risk the management asking why my apt smells so shitty
If you can control the scent of your plants, you'll be able to control the scent of the sulfur, which goes away very quickly once the sulfur in the evaporator re-solidifies. The sulfur vapour will also leave an invisible residue on ALL grow room surfaces, which will kill mould spores anywhere they lay & reduce future re-infection events. You going in & out of the room will always bring in some new ones, but they stand much less a chance of blooming with the inhospitible sulfur vapour residue on everything.

i run flora nova grow/bloom one part mix and it is supposed to be half/half of organic and synthetic ph stable but the problem is it is very thick almost like mud and leaves my res's very dirty and hell of a time to clean. would you just recommend changing to a full synthetic mix so i could use h202 or what else could i do?? thanks again.
Change to a fully inorganic nutrient. Problem solved.

other than the general banter you'll find in any thread(s), i've digested & applied your info to the maximus.

ton of questions, good sir.
tons.

straight to business.

6 months into a new lab setup ...straight SOG ...on ebb tables with square pots & hydroton.

rather than four tables, my space allows me to run three tables on a three week rotation ...using strains that finish in 7 to 9 weeks.
Sounds good.

nevertheless, there's a few fellows more than i working through your "system" or variations thereof.
I've seen a few of them. My 'system' as it were can be modified in a number of ways to suit the grower, particularly on scaling.

too, after so much experimentation in various media, i can't see where/how 1000ppm is necessay when i get excellent results @ 800 to 850ppm max (and that's in weeks 7-9).
If it works well at 800, do eeeet. :)

on the same note, when i go from the cloner to my first tray at anything over 500ppm my plants look like total shit for days & days on end. i cant see how high nute concentrations help at this stage. comments?

so what do you suggest (in general) as base ppm concentrations for each tray in the rotation? i see someone earlier in this thread notes a friend running 1200ppm from beginning to end, wtf?
I run all tanks in the flowering room at 1000-1100 @ 5.8. I can't be fucked mixing differently for each tank. My new clones don't react badly at all to 1000 from the get-go.

do you clone at the same ph as your first table (weeks 1-2 , 1-3 for me) to make the transition easier?
I've recently been soaking RW cubes for 24h in plain frech tapwater, no pH correction, no H2O2. Been watering clones with the same.

imo, the art of this entire growing method rests on your ability to bust roots on clones.
Too right. If you can't get clones to happen reliably, it all falls down.
often, you discussed going straight from the cloner to the table. with straight tap water, i'm curious as to the type of root development your plants have/had when they hit the table. are we talking nubs or beards?
If a clone is really setting root well, it'll have about 7-10 'nubs' out of the cube on the same day, as first roots. It can be planted right then. In practise, I tend to wait until I have a full batch of 24 with roots out of the cube before I plant. However, don't let a lot of roots develop outside of the cube before planting. They're not supported with media and are easy to damage or dry out. Planting earlier is better than later.

in SOG, early root development is critical to the amount of strech you'll get (outside of genetics) from any given strain ...yes?
Early root development is critical to a thriving plant, full stop. If a plant is thriving, it'll easily get to 36"-40" by wk4. Winnow out poor performers before they go to the flowering room.

regarding the above question, what do you think about extra veg time for the cuts? i'm finding 2 weeks veg time after rooting has a better overall effect on yeild than anything else i've tried.
If there's good root development on a thriving plant, vegging is not only unnecessary but problematic as it will induce excessive vertical height & branching. The ideal is a batch of uniformly short plants that have their main bud area in the highest light intensity available.

what about additives of any kind?
I don't use anything but nutes, H2O2 and occasional pH Down.
obviously there's a fixed number of plants i can get on a tray. i've been experimenting with with a low concentration (1/4 recommended) of a popular bloom booster to try & enhance yield.
Be sure to reduce your nutrient ppm or eliminate std nutes altogether for the period that you're using any phosphorus-based bloom additives- which, BTW are the only ones that can possibly work. If I see another beeswax & bullshit bloom booster, I'm going to punch some marketing genius in the brain. It's be the same one who thought that 'power balance' bracelets were a good idea...

imo, it's not about running a booster all the time but applying it for a few days (then changing out the rez) at the right time.
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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Wow, al b fuct say it ain't so.
It ain't so. Happy? :D

So is the bleach thing really no good?
Really no good.

I was set on getting a meter to monitor the chlorine in my res. I was excited about killing all my pathogens with a 5 dollar jug of bleach.
I'd like to fly to the moon with a propeller beanie.
My roots turned brown the other day and all my attempts with h202 did not prevent much. I was adding up to 2 ml per liter. ( flood and drain, rock wool pots, flooded once a day when loose half water weight, canna nutes 1000ppm, ph 5.8 but rising daily).
Any slimy feeling on the bottom of the nute tanks? Applying regularly every 3-4 days? Any chance the roots could have been dried out or drowned? I had a timer fail not long back- it was adding a 6 HOUR 'ON' cycle where there should have been none. Pissed me off. It was running in the middle of the night and I wasn't aware it was happening until I had problems with a couple consecutive batches which had run through the tray with the defective timer.

Hey, by the way. So your clones are working better with just yap water. No ph? No h202?
Yep, just plain water.

I found mine worked better the same way straight tap water. And a little powder. I thought your old technique was working like clock work?
Yes, I still use rooting powder, but the other stuff just wasn't necessary. Works better without.

And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions :)
Yeah, cheers for that. xD Every time I pop in, I DO get a deluge. Hope I can keep up. I really only have a couple of days to put into answering questinos, though- then I'm again going to be off like a prom dress.

bongsmilieHey Al no questions i can think of at the moment. I just wanted to tell you that you're the fuckin manbongsmilie
heh, thanks :)
 

jrinlv

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the great info Al,

My latest setup is definitely influenced but mostly your posts, thanks for sharing...JR
 

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
thanks for the answer al i would ask what inorganic line you would recommend but pretty sure i know it would be the canna line up seeings how thats what you are using correct?? think i might give them a go i like the flora nova just to grimy.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
thanks for the answer al i would ask what inorganic line you would recommend but pretty sure i know it would be the canna line up seeings how thats what you are using correct?? think i might give them a go i like the flora nova just to grimy.
I would recommend Canna, strangely enough. ;) No, they're not paying me to say that.. but hey, Canna... if you're listening... there's enough room in my garden shed for a few pallets of gold bars. :D

There's several high quality inorganic nutrient mfrs, though. Someone will chime in and mention their favourite. Just avoid organics.

I laughed out loud at the first post. Nice
Really? I didn't even use any of my 'A' material about rusty nails driven through stems to increase potency...
 

zem

Well-Known Member
holy shit Al i'm glad you're here man. i have been pulling my hair in here from the silly shit advice being given out. i use my tapwater with 35%H2O2 and chemical ferts in powder form. i never seen any 50% grade. i get pissed from the organic bullshit every day and there are few who would jump into threads telling everybody to use bleach instead of h2o2 giving it as a FACT that it's actually better, good luck trying to make things straight in here lmao
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
holy shit Al i'm glad you're here man. i have been pulling my hair in here from the silly shit advice being given out.
How are the LED evangelists doing? :D

i use my tapwater with 35%H2O2 and chemical ferts in powder form. i never seen any 50% grade.
35% will do fine. Low strength H2O2 has a stabiliser added (normally sodium silicate) which is not plant friendly. AFAIK, 35% doesn't require stabilliser, but much lower than that does or the shelf life is rather short (about a year).

i get pissed from the organic bullshit every day and there are few who would jump into threads telling everybody to use bleach instead of h2o2 giving it as a FACT that it's actually better, good luck trying to make things straight in here lmao
I know, it's hard to rest when SOMEBODY ON THE INTERNET IS WRONG. ;)
 

zem

Well-Known Member
yes! the LED evangelists! those are my favorites! i actually analysed their psychology. imagine you have bought a light for like 800-1000$ it will be hard for you to admit that it doesn't work now wouldn't it? worse though is to try convince people to do the same stupid mistake you did lmao up until they swallow their loss and switch to hps they would have convinced a dozen to buy LED all of whom will be telling others to do the same, compounding the inefficiency and the lost efforts. sometimes i ask myself why i even bother, all i care for actually is to have a world with more free weed! haha
 

Japanfreak

New Member
I would like to add one to the fucked up world of hydroponics on-line

deficiencies - You shouldn't have them

All these people running around trying to pick the right def from that useless thing skype's guide, skype? Snype? Sniggles? What ever. get the right ppm/ec and shut up about deficiencies.
 

gudkarma

New Member
al b.

i'm using & prefer a one part nutrient system (http://www.dyna-gro.com/) and have some questions here.

already mentioning i like to suppliment with low strength boosters the the end of a rez cycle i still try to keep the sauce VERY simple.

understanding where you suggest ppms & ph should be, how would you approach using a one part nute system where we have two bottles ...one for grow ...one for bloom.

* quick aside, do you know anything about H & Gs component 1? *

so we go > rooted cuts straight from tap water (my city water is 200ppm, ph 8.0) > to tray number one @ 1200-1300 ppm ish (given my starting point) ?

if using a one part nute system, where the bloom mix is low in N, also adding we want to encourage some but not too much stretch, do you reccomend the addition of micro or some of the one part grow to the rez sauce in order to boost N (for plants in the first tray)?

i'm gonna posit a few more questions & bow out...

nevertheless, and back on track, i keep backup for everything & have to dip into the stash for the oversized heater ...my room, i've discovered, night temps are hitting 15-16 celcius... where i normally keep night temps (this time of year) about 20c.

room temps are to be 24 to 27 (ish) celcius constant. in the winter, my lights on temps are perfect whereas lower than expected night temps could be hurting my stretch.

possible?

you talk about temps alot in some of your stickie threads.

so no drop in temps for lights out, correct?

i'm not worried about environmental controls. built my lab room inside a room & sealed style with access to air inside the room & outside the building. ultra handy over here ...just need direction with regard to room temps.

my local climate has four seasons so i have to & can adjust my controls similarly.

a few pics...
 

Attachments

devero420

Active Member
Hi Al, great thread, thx for sharing your eperiences. I recently fell for the jargin and bought sweet I dont think I am going to use it though.

How do you feel about Hygrozyme and Cal-Mag?

Thanks!
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
yes! the LED evangelists! those are my favorites! i actually analysed their psychology. imagine you have bought a light for like 800-1000$ it will be hard for you to admit that it doesn't work now wouldn't it? worse though is to try convince people to do the same stupid mistake you did lmao up until they swallow their loss and switch to hps they would have convinced a dozen to buy LED all of whom will be telling others to do the same, compounding the inefficiency and the lost efforts. sometimes i ask myself why i even bother, all i care for actually is to have a world with more free weed! haha
Seriously, LED evangelists are like PowerBalance band advocates. "WORKS!" they all yell, until put to the test. When proven wrong, the tune doesn't change. Fuck 'em.

View attachment 1375074View attachment 1375073View attachment 1375072hey al i got some? im new to hydro so il lay it out
1) ebb & grow C.A.P system
2) three weeks in
3) GH nutes useing lucas formula ppms at 800 ph 5.8
4) flooding every 4 hours once during dark but im stoping that today
5) thought there was nitrogen def but i added some with no change
i also added cal-mad thinking that might be it no change
kinda lost al need some help running outa hair to pull lol
I really dislike 'Lucas Formula' because it allows (nay, encourages) extreme NPK ratio imbalances. That's part of what's going on here, causing the severe nute burn appearance. The other part is overwatering. Is there only clay pellets in that pot or is there some other absorbent media in there? Never water in lights-off. Just no need for it.

Cal-Mag is almost always unnecessary unless you're using rainwater. There's usually enough Ca & Mg in tapwater to suit plants in hydroponics.

What's a C.A.P system?

Go back to GH instructions for the use of their product.

I would like to add one to the fucked up world of hydroponics on-line

deficiencies - You shouldn't have them
Too right. Any decent quality hydroponic nutrient has everything plants need. What appears to be nute deficiencies are almost always some other fuckup.

All these people running around trying to pick the right def from that useless thing skype's guide, skype? Snype? Sniggles? What ever. get the right ppm/ec and shut up about deficiencies.
Yup.
 

The Waiter

Active Member
Hey al how many clones do you think i can do sog style under a 150w hps in hempy buckets? Without sacrificing yield of course. How about under a 250w?
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
im droping the night feeding, was just hard for me to understand they could go that long without. and there in RW cubes
when these signs started i was on a basic GH feeding program and the burn apperence started my ppm was 1000
and it was sugested to try lucas, problem seemed to go away but as you see its still there im at 800ppms now.
il put up some new pics
 

Luger187

Well-Known Member
* Chlorinated municipal tap water is fine for hydroponics. Fancy water filtration systems are completely unnecessary. Chlorine, in the amounts applied by muni water treatment plants, is completely harmless to plants and people. ]High TDS readings from 'hard' water are caused primarily by dissolved minerals like Ca and Mg, both of which are necessary micronutrients. Any water suitable for drinking is excellent for hydroponics. The only reason one would ever have to ever use expensive RO or filtration systems is if one is sourcing water from a local bore/well, where water may contain high levels of salinity or sulfur. In 25 years of growing dope, I've never once seen tapwater from a municipal system cause problems in a hydroponic grow op.
i would not trust my city to provide me with the right amount of nutrients for my plants. if u use an RO system, u KNOW u have a baseline of zero(or very close), and can add however much nutes u NEED accordingly. if i were to add nutes to my regular tap water, wouldnt it have a ton of Ca and Mg in it?

basically what im saying is regular tap water isnt that reliable. u dont know exactly how much is in it. so adding more could cause problems
 
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