Jacks (JR Peters) nutrients

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
No, me loves me peat :)
yea i bought jacks hydrophonics 5-12-26 and calcium nitrate 15-0-0 and epsom salt ,im going to also purchase roots organic coco fiber it is already cleaned and phed,not sure how much to give so im going with there directions. you mix fertilizer until disolved then epsom salt completly disolved and then calcium nitrate disolve fully, that is correct right ,i see you also feed 2 other salts ,is that something i need to do also.tystick gave me what he feeds but im not sure what he grows in ,anyway do you still run the gas lantern method with these salts ,i was using the method on my last grow and im not quite sure if im going to run it this next run ,main reason is i have 1 grow space and cant split room for a veg and flower,last run i had a problem with the light cycle because of that. i did get a good harvest though 19 lids out of 3 plants. i also was curious about using soil and salts i didnt no that you could ,i made up a home recipe for my soil and im going to run a side by side of salts and coco and my soil mix with water and tea ,i already no that the coco is going to run off and leave the soil grow but im curiouse of the taste of them both
 

OG Gardenz

Active Member
I think the key to soil growing is Biostimulants! You still need some salt nutrients but the real action comes from chelators like humic, fulvic, and amino acids!

Also silica and kelp...
 

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
I think the key to soil growing is Biostimulants! You still need some salt nutrients but the real action comes from chelators like humic, fulvic, and amino acids!

Also silica and kelp...
what you say is true but on my soil recipe all of that is amended in and cooked for 6 weeks ,with my soil recipe i only use water and tea,im looking to advance a bit that is why im looking into the salts,all those bottle nutrients you buy are just water with the same stuff added, buying the salts will last you forever and i got my own water if you feel what im saying
 

OG Gardenz

Active Member
what you say is true but on my soil recipe all of that is amended in and cooked for 6 weeks ,with my soil recipe i only use water and tea,im looking to advance a bit that is why im looking into the salts,all those bottle nutrients you buy are just water with the same stuff added, buying the salts will last you forever and i got my own water if you feel what im saying
I totally agree liquid nutrients are a joke! All the Biostimulants I use (humic, fulvic, kelp, amino, silica) are all soluble powders. :bigjoint:

Like you say, with the bottles your just paying for water! :wall:
 

Kygiacomo

Well-Known Member
I think the key to soil growing is Biostimulants! You still need some salt nutrients but the real action comes from chelators like humic, fulvic, and amino acids!

Also silica and kelp...
i agree i use all the products u listed plus a product called Vitazyme which is the only water in a bottle i use now lol. this shit is amazeing stuff! i was doing research into Brassinosteriod and that lead me to Vitazyme. check out the plant i tested it out on. the first pic is right before i added the vitazyme and the 2nd pic is 7 days later..its worth checking out for sure! i have also been using a bio-fungicide called Regalia that also could be part of the growth since its designed to activate the plants SAR and i been using Aloe vera at 1/8 tsp..i been using a new product from Bioag that is Humic & Silica together so far so good. i was sick of protekt clouding up on me

* Brassinosteroids, called “a growth regulator of the 21st Century”, are effective at extremely low concentrations. At the standard 13 oz/acre (1 liter/ha) application rate, 30 mg/ha are applied, which is well within the accepted active range of 20 to 50 mg/ha. Effects on plants include: greater seed germination, increased crop yield, improved flowering, enhanced stress tolerance (temperature extremes, salinity, drought, and pesticides), increased leaf chlorophyll and photosynthesis.

* Triacontanol is a well-researched compound found in relative abundance in Vitazyme, at about 0.17 mg/ml. It can activate plant growth when applied at extremely low concentrations, less than 1 mg/ha. Effects on plants include: improved seedling growth, increased chlorophyll and photosynthesis, enhanced dry matter accumulation, increased crop yield.

Active Ingredients


Here are some active ingredients in Vitazyme (all derived from natural materials):

* 1-triacontanol...................................................................0.17 mg/ml

* Brassinosteroids (homobrassinolide,
homodolicholide, dolicholide, brassinone).......................0.03 mg/ml

* Kinetin............................................................................. < 1 mg/ml

* Gibberellic acid..............................................................0.13 mg/ml

* Indoleacetic acid.............................................................. < 1 mg/ml

* Biotin.............................................................................0.006 mg/lb

* Folic acid.......................................................................0.007 mg/lb

* Niacin............................................................................0.077 mg/lb

* Pantothenic acid..............................................................0.13 mg/lb

* Vitamin B1 (thiamin)......................................................2.03 mg/lb

* Vitamin B2 (riboflavin).................................................0.078 mg/lb

* Vitamin B6........................................................................1.2 mg/lb

* Vitamin B12 (cobalamine)...........................................0.0015 mg/lb

* Glycosides

* Glucans

* Various enzymes
 

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OG Gardenz

Active Member
looks like interesting stuff! i like the profile a lot of hormones in there definitely a pgr i will have a look..

i'm focusing on microbes now and juicing the soil with specific groupings for grow and bloom.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
@garlictrain I noticed you 'liked' my old post where I discussed our head to head run of dry nutrient salts vs House & Garden.

We used four bottles from the lineup; Part A, part B, Multi Zen and Top Booster, timing, ratios and solution strength as recommended by their feed chart.

The run sucked ass; plants were deficient the whole way they, they didn't taste good and the high wasn't as good. And I STILL don't know for sure what I fed my plants because the bottles didn't say!

The Hydrogardens run gave 25% more yield, great high, taste to wax poetic over. Those results (at least for Hydrogardens) have been repeated many times since with uniformly excellent results. The label clearly lists everything in it, right down to the percentage.

Cost; H&G: $220 for the four bottles, which would do between one and two more runs beyond the one in the test. Hydrogardens: $7 for the run.

NOW you know why commercial greenhouses don't buy their nutrients from hydro stores, and why you shouldn't, either!
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
yea i bought jacks hydrophonics 5-12-26 and calcium nitrate 15-0-0 and epsom salt ,im going to also purchase roots organic coco fiber it is already cleaned and phed,not sure how much to give so im going with there directions. you mix fertilizer until disolved then epsom salt completly disolved and then calcium nitrate disolve fully, that is correct right ,i see you also feed 2 other salts ,is that something i need to do also.tystick gave me what he feeds but im not sure what he grows in ,anyway do you still run the gas lantern method with these salts ,i was using the method on my last grow and im not quite sure if im going to run it this next run ,main reason is i have 1 grow space and cant split room for a veg and flower,last run i had a problem with the light cycle because of that. i did get a good harvest though 19 lids out of 3 plants. i also was curious about using soil and salts i didnt no that you could ,i made up a home recipe for my soil and im going to run a side by side of salts and coco and my soil mix with water and tea ,i already no that the coco is going to run off and leave the soil grow but im curiouse of the taste of them both
It's "@Ttystikk" and I grow in hydroton; ebb n flood style for the babies and RDWC for the big'uns. You'll want MKP, aka monopotassium phosphate, as a bloom booster. Add half a gram per gallon in peak bloom, no more, it's plenty strong!
 

OG Gardenz

Active Member
Making your own bloom boosters is the only way to go! I use soluble potassium also add a little soluble B-Vitamin and phosphorus

I make 3 different bloom boosters...

Early Bloom = aprox 1/2g phos, 1/4g potas.

Mid Bloom = 1/4g phos, 1/2g potas, 1/4g B-Vit (Mag Sulfate as carrier)

Late Bloom = 1/4g phos, 1/2g potas, 1/4g B-Vit
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Making your own bloom boosters is the only way to go! I use soluble potassium also add a little soluble B-Vitamin and phosphorus

I make 3 different bloom boosters...

Early Bloom = aprox 1/2g phos, 1/4g potas.

Mid Bloom = 1/4g phos, 1/2g potas, 1/4g B-Vit (Mag Sulfate as carrier)

Late Bloom = 1/4g phos, 1/2g potas, 1/4g B-Vit
Do your mixes actually boost your blooms? Have you done a side-by-side? I'm asking because I actually grow bigger flowers these days with a formula that contains a lower amount of P and an average dose of K as compared to N.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Do your mixes actually boost your blooms? Have you done a side-by-side? I'm asking because I actually grow bigger flowers these days with a formula that contains a lower amount of P and an average dose of K as compared to N.
I don't need to add much MKP to my nutrient mix to see explosive flower growth. I've done the side by side and I found that dry nutrients work as well or better than water bottles FOR A TINY FRACTION OF THE PRICE. Like less than five percent...

There's nothing magical in those waterbottles! The plants want the same nutes, they give not one shit how much you spent, how cool the label looks or whether you got a 'discount' on the rest of the lineup from the manufacturer.

Plants want (in water soluble form);
Nitrogen
Phosphorus
Potassium
Calcium
Sulphur
Magnesium
Iron
Micronutrients like copper, boron, etc.

That's it. They don't NEED anything else! Plant growth regulators, or PGRs can help plants do what they do slightly faster, but even these are made by plants themselves and the grower need not add them. If your environment is on point and your nutrients are in order, you won't need or want to use PGRs.
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
I don't need to add much MKP to my nutrient mix to see explosive flower growth. I've done the side by side and I found that dry nutrients work as well or better than water bottles FOR A TINY FRACTION OF THE PRICE. Like less than five percent...

There's nothing magical in those waterbottles! The plants want the same nutes, they give not one shit how much you spent, how cool the label looks or whether you got a 'discount' on the rest of the lineup from the manufacturer.

Plants want (in water soluble form);
Nitrogen
Phosphorus
Potassium
Calcium
Sulphur
Magnesium
Iron
Micronutrients like copper, boron, etc.

That's it. They don't NEED anything else! Plant growth regulators, or PGRs can help plants do what they do slightly faster, but even these are made by plants themselves and the grower need not add them. If your environment is on point and your nutrients are in order, you won't need or want to use PGRs.

Who said anything about liquid versus dry? :-? I'm asking specifically about the addition of P and K and why the user above thinks the addition of said elements is beneficial.
 

OG Gardenz

Active Member
Do your mixes actually boost your blooms? Have you done a side-by-side? I'm asking because I actually grow bigger flowers these days with a formula that contains a lower amount of P and an average dose of K as compared to N.
I see a more aggressive flower set during the first two weeks when I use a little more phos then my standard bloom formula already has... and I have certainly seen flowers lack in size and density when I do not provide enough potassium during mid to late flower. I just throw a little B-Vit in for stress and the carrier is mag so prevents any deficiencies there..
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
I see a more aggressive flower set during the first two weeks when I use a little more phos then my standard bloom formula already has... and I have certainly seen flowers lack in size and density when I do not provide enough potassium during mid to late flower. I just throw a little B-Vit in for stress and the carrier is mag so prevents any deficiencies there..
Just out of curiosity, what food are you feeding your plants that seems to be deficient in K?
 

OG Gardenz

Active Member
Just out of curiosity, what food are you feeding your plants that seems to be deficient in K?
As most of us know cannabis is dynamic and has different nutrient requirements at different stages of growth or flower. There is no bloom formula that has enough potassium for mid to late flower. If they did, then early flower would get to much potassium etc. etc....

This is why I use soluble elements and biostimulants! Guarantee you I know my plants better then some company selling me there secret liquid... I use the same inputs except in their pure soluble form, without paying for water!
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
As most of us know cannabis is dynamic and has different nutrient requirements at different stages of growth or flower. There is no bloom formula that has enough potassium for mid to late flower. If they did, then early flower would get to much potassium etc. etc....

This is why I use soluble elements and biostimulants! Guarantee you I know my plants better then some company selling me there secret liquid... I use the same inputs except in their pure soluble form, without paying for water!
Again, I don't know why you folks keep bringing up a liquid vs dry argument, they're the same salts. Anyway, for the last six months I've been playing with the addition of potassium sulfate to my normal feeding regimen and can honestly say the addition has done nothing at all. In fact, my lab results from a while back showed that the average 'veg' food has plenty of K. It may not hurt to add more but that doesn't mean your plants are taking it up.
 
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