Lady J's 12 / 12 From Seed Perpetual Closet CFL Grow

ScoobyDoobyDoo said:
i've never tried them before but i have some friends that are just raving about them. the theory makes sense to me about getting more air in the root zone. plus, if you water slowly with them you can basically see as the pot gets moist and therefore never waste any nutes. and i'm gonna try the 7 and 10 gallon pots...larger root zone means larger yields. i like experimenting with new stuff so i think they are worth giving a shot.
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Am going to try some 2 gallon ones for this grow...like the idea of not wasting any nutes :)
 
Go with smart pots as opposed to airpots. Airpots are a superb pain to water and to keep moist. (well, outdoors. I keep forgetting y'all are strictly indoor)
And the fabric is nicer to look at than plastic!
 
Looking good :). Plastic pots will do the job just fine....but the more things you dial in on your grow, the more it will be above average. If air pots help give me a better yield / quality...I'm down!
 
Kronika said:
Mine too.. uneducated plastic!
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but look what these dumb pots can grow...g 13 widow.......
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Sup guys, decided to do a little update. The Blueberry is on Day 6, and the Skunk is on Day 8. Here are the babies:

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C99 (Cinderella 99) has just started peeking through the soil and I hope to wake up to her unfurled tomorrow morning. I put a Big Bud #2 seed in a rockwool cube that has been soaking in 5.0 PH'd water for 24 hours just for shits and giggles. I had mentioned before that I scrapped it after finding out it was a poor choice of plant to grow from the few growers I can find on the net who've tried it...but I have only tried to germ in rockwool once, in a bubble system, and it was short lived so just want to experiment and get a feel for things. The next seed I germ will be Pineapple Express :)....but going to wait at least a couple weeks for that.

Am going to start experimenting with making my own teas!

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It's a 5 gallon bucket but I only filled it up to 2 gallons so that there wouldn't be any splattering on my walls or floor. I used tap water and have been letting it aerate for 24 hours in order to rid it of chlorine (chlorine kills beneficial microbes). I'm just learning, so am starting with worm castings and molasses. Took 1/4 a cup of castings and put it in a stocking....wrapped electrical tape around a couple bamboo sticks...then I tied the open part of the stocking around the middle of the stick, and let the bulk of it dip in the water, suspended by the bamboo. After that, I added 1 tablespoon of unsulphered molasses. I have heard people mention that they use molasses to make their plants sweeter...I don't know about all that, but molasses feed the microbes in the tea so you get a better brew :). I believe it should be done in 24 hours, but am going to wait until I see some foaming on the top, then will mix with equal parts water (since I used such a small amount of material) and see how my flowering plants like it. I think I will choose a plant to only ferted with tea in order to really experiment...Big Bid #2 might be perfect for that...


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Nice! Your gonna like it.

Have you any mycorhizzae? They should be a part of every microherd. :)

The molasses will help, as long as you didn't buy sterilized soil. But the wormcastings will introduce bennies(beneficial bacteriums) (that's right, I said bacteriums! What?) so it's just my mind unravelling for all to see..
 
Theowl said:
Nice! Your gonna like it.

Have you any mycorhizzae? They should be a part of every microherd. :)

The molasses will help, as long as you didn't buy sterilized soil. But the wormcastings will introduce bennies(beneficial bacteriums) (that's right, I said bacteriums! What?) so it's just my mind unravelling for all to see..
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Nope, don't have any mycorhizzae though I plan to add them soon...was just trying to avoid ordering anything else online and was hoping there might be some at Wal-Mart...course it isn't lol.

Um Owl...you high? lol :)
 
Lady.J said:
Nope, don't have any mycorhizzae though I plan to add them soon...was just trying to avoid ordering anything else online and was hoping there might be some at Wal-Mart...course it isn't lol.

Um Owl...you high? lol :)
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they sell them at hydro stores to, I got some good stuff for cheap, I definitely saw a difference in my plants when using mycorrhizae.. did one grow with and without and it was unbelievable how much smaller the roots are without mycorrhize.
 
Oh hell yeah, get that! Outrageously good price!
Ive bought some as high as $8 for two teaspoonfuls. But that was a local company and I try and support my local economy.
 
So I did a bit of thread "research" and came across 2 threads: https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-m...izal-fungi-applications-cannabis-caveats.html, https://www.rollitup.org/general-ma...question-about-mycorrhizae-inoculant-rep.html. The second thread is less detailed, but provides pretty much the same info. Here's a quote from UB in the first thread:

  • "Just a few comments - the endo/ecto hyphae can not be seen by the naked eye. If you're using a rich organic mix that has compost or a manure product in it, the native microbes in your mix will "eat them suckas"..... stuff you put in, too much of a good thing is many times not only expensive and is big waste, but if it makes you feel good, then go for it. Remember, plants grow well under conditions that they are getting the right salts in the right ratio, essential nutrients. There are some beneficial nutrients that might enhance disease resistance and such.......

    Bacteria are found in abundance in the soils of grass fields, prairie plains..... fungi amongst trees, forests. BTW, if you're using a decent compost, you don't need any of this stuff, not that it necessarily improves plant anyway. Adding peat moss and compost or castings to your potting soil and you're good to go regarding your desire for humates, microbes, etc. This fungi is found naturally in soils unless they are sterilized with something like heat or Vapam.

    I had a Dr. of Horticulture tell me I was wasting my time and money adding myco products to my soil. In fact, he said I could actually be doing harm to the ones already present. Had another expert say that when you add some of these microbial/myco products, the native ones "just eat 'em."


    Have fun,
    UB​


 
I guess I can't edit a post if I copy a post that way, weird. Here's if you think the soil that you use lacks any microbes:
ElectricPineapple said:
no. because many of the soils that you buy are bagged are sterilized. thus kiiling all bacteria and fungi good and bad. now if the soil company put any of them back like ff light warrior and the soil you are using then maybe you did. but most bagged soils you buy dont have them.
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Uncle Ben said:
Who might that be and how? Most composted soils that are bagged for public consumption are heated to 170F via natural composting action which kills weeds and such but preserves "good" microbes. I don't know if it is cost efficient for manufacturers who produce potting soil by the ton to steam inject their mixes.

Just saying.....
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Also: http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Bonemeal.pdf
• Bone meal supplies high levels of phosphorus and calcium, elements that are rarely limiting in
non-agricultural soils.
• Phosphorus, from bone meal or other sources, does not “stimulate” plant growth; it is only a
mineral, not a plant growth regulator.
• High levels of phosphorus, from bone meal or other sources, will inhibit growth of mycorrhizal
fungi.
• Before you add any supplementary nutrients to your landscape, have a complete soil test
performed first.

Also I'm sure you guys know how much validity of saying this stuff works vs not using it w/o having a control group at the same time. Anecdotal evidence is anecdotal. Just sayin :)
 
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