Lazy Man's Way to Cleaner Hydroponic Cannabis
- Thread starter Douglas.Curtis
- Start date
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
Yeah, my pics suck, no frost, look all dark and nasty.
Just no idea what clean cannabis is, huh. Why am I not surprised?
I said researchers use bottled nutes, not commercial. I said commercial growers don't dump reservoirs very often.
What thread were YOU reading?
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
that's what you wrote.
why don't you do us all a favor. get your weed analysed and show us what "clean" cannabis is.
and yeah, that pic wasnt' too impressive for a 15 yr grower.
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
Yeah, did YOU read the link? It's not about commercial growers, that's for sure.
Again, this info was in the thread. Yep.
You obviously haven't tried it. I know what cash cropper cannabis looks like, it's everywhere.
This is not cash cropper cannabis. This is amazing, in construction, flavor, aroma and potency.
When someone hands me cannabis with quality of obvious superiority to mine, I'll definitely be listening to what they have to say.
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
Lmao! You are delusional man. That shit looks like ok weed. Look at all the white hairs... smh you need to get out and of the house more often.Yeah, did YOU read the link? It's not about commercial growers, that's for sure.
Again, this info was in the thread. Yep.
You obviously haven't tried it. I know what cash cropper cannabis looks like, it's everywhere.
This is not cash cropper cannabis. This is amazing, in construction, flavor, aroma and potency.
When someone hands me cannabis with quality of obvious superiority to mine, I'll definitely be listening to what they have to say.
If you wont take anyone's advice, please take mine. You come off as a prick, so you might want to tone that down. You need to remember that everyone on this site grows. This isn't your neighborhood where a few idiots might be growing so you get to stand out. Sure, there are idiots on this site as well, but there are a lot of really good growers here too.
I grow both hydro dwc and organic water only soil and there is nothing that you've posted that has taught me anything. I'm just being honest. You just talk a lot of bullshit and think your weed is better than some weed you never tried. Do you see how stupid that makes you look?
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
my last grow. it's clean and it's fantastic!Yeah, did YOU read the link? It's not about commercial growers, that's for sure.
Again, this info was in the thread. Yep.
You obviously haven't tried it. I know what cash cropper cannabis looks like, it's everywhere.
This is not cash cropper cannabis. This is amazing, in construction, flavor, aroma and potency.
When someone hands me cannabis with quality of obvious superiority to mine, I'll definitely be listening to what they have to say.
evergreengardener
Well-Known Member
Yea that nugget shot looks like 3rd shelf bud to me not what I call quality man looks like something I would a smoked in high school haha haha I do believe I've seen pics of Mexican weed that looked better than that nug. After reading this whole thread I say to the op you've got way more learning to do about this plant and if you haven't had any better bud than that in 8 years I feel sorry for you because the pics you posted are not top shelf nugs plain and simple
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i think he said he's in Fairplay. that's A+++ in that shithole of a town. C minus in civilized Colorado. lol
mauricem00
Well-Known Member
anything is easy when your use to doing it and practices have become a matter of habit but the more complicated a thing is the harder it is to do right and the more things there are to go wrong. since Murphy loves hanging around me I prefer to keep things a simple as possibleOR How to Manage Roots In/Out Hydro Reservoirs With Ease
Basics of Hydro
Everyone complains, hydroponics takes a lot of time, is complicated to understand and difficult to maintain. I say hydroponics is simple and takes little time. The difference is in the reservoir management. Regardless of the system used, a few key points make management of hydroponics a piece of cake. (Mmmm... caaaake!)
When each of these key points are understood and applied, the time you spend working with your hydro system drops dramatically. This leaves you more time for working with the plants or other tasks in life. I learned these methods over 15 years ago and they've served me extremely well.
The following information works best in a high VPD environment. I use low temperatures and low humidity (72F canopy temp, 20-25% RH), others use high heat, high humidity. Both methods produce a high VPD environment, causing high transpiration rates.
I believe low humidity produces higher quality, high heat and humidity is much easier to maintain. Low humidity also has significantly lower pest breeding and mold germination rates.
Building Blocks for Any Hydro System
The following are a few key points for all hydroponic systems.
Clean Water
You want easy hydro? You'll definitely want to always use clean water. I prefer reverse osmosis filtered water. R/O is pH neutral and free of contaminants. Everything cannabis needs will be supplied by your nutrient mix. No guessing.
A Balanced Nutrient Profile
Providing an accurate mix of elements, required by a plant, allows maximum healthy growth rates. A properly balanced mix will have sufficient levels of each macro and micro element, without having excess within a healthy pH range. Cannabis can and does bind some elements directly to cell walls in new growth. A balanced nutrient profile produces the cleanest end cannabis through prevention of this action.
Professional/Pharmaceutical Grade Nutrients
The cleaner the nutrients, the fewer problems and potential contaminates you have to deal with. I recommend using only pharmaceutical grade nutrients for cannabis. 99.9% free of contaminants.
pH Swing Compatible Additives
Using the natural upswing in pH, as the plants absorb nutrients, is the cleanest way to achieve a full and cyclic pH swing. Additives that alter pH, either directly or though biological activity, must be carefully used.
Roots-In and Roots-Out
Though the basics are the same, there are two general types of hydroponic systems. Roots-in, where the roots are constantly exposed to the nutrient solution, and roots-out, where the roots experience repeated drying out periods. The pH management and correct root zone temperatures are different for each type. Roots-In systems also require oxygenation of the nutrient solution.
Roots-In
Roots-in systems MUST keep the root zone (nutrient solution) between 65F and 68F. Higher or lower temperatures increase work and decrease results. 68F is preferred for maximum growth rates.
A full and cyclic pH swing from 5.4-5.8 MUST be allowed to happen in the reservoir. Allowed, through proper res management, not forced.
Roots-in systems constantly bathe the roots in solution. Since these roots require oxygen, the solution must be sufficiently oxygenated. This is accomplised with airpumps, airlines and airstones. A good rule of thumb is to provide at least 3 watts of airpump power for each 10 gallons of nutrient solution.
Roots-Out
Roots-out systems MUST keep the root zone at 75F-78F, for healthy growth. Temperatures below 75F stall growth and temps above 78F invite root rot.
The healthy pH swing in a roots-out system is a narrower range than roots-in systems. This is due to the pH dropping in the root zone, as it dries out between waterings. The healthy pH range for a roots out system is generally 5.5-5.8.
Reservoir Size and pH Swing
Cannabis responds to a healthy pH swing in the root zone. Cannais responds extremely well to a swing with a 7-10 day cycle. Since the swing is largely based on how fast plants absorb nutrients, a reservoir size needs to be matched to the light and number of plants being used.
The more gallons of nutrients in the reservoir, the longer it will take for the pH to swing. The fewer gallons, the quicker the swing. The standard size for a 1000w HID and a full canopy is 40-45 gallons.
Mixing Your Nutrient Solution
Mixing the nutrient solution is a simple process. Filling the reservoir with water. Adding nutrients, mixing well, adding additives, if any, and adjusting the initial pH.
Add r/o water
Fill the reservoir to the level you're going to use.
Add Nutrients and Additives (if any)
Add your base nutrients in the order your manufacturer recommends. I use a general mix which works well as a general nutrient for 'cannabis,' consisting of 8ml/cc of GH Flora Micro and 16ml/cc of GH Flora Bloom, per gallon of water. (Yes, commonly referred to as the Lucas Formula)
This means I calculate the number of cc/ml's of micro I need and mix it in thoroughly. I then mix in the calculated amount of bloom. Additives are added next. The main additive I always use with Lucas is .5/1g of epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) per gallon.
pH to Lowest Starting pH Level
The starting pH is going to be different for roots-in and roots-out system. I use GH powdered pH up as it works well and is a potassium based product. Roots-in systems are simple at 5.4. Roots-out systems are generally 5.5, depending on the pH drop between waterings.
Daily Reservoir Management
All hydroponic systems require daily tending. It takes only a few minutes to do the following.
- Measure Transpiration Rate
- Top off the Reservoir
- Check the PPM/pH
- Add Nutrient (If necessary)
Measure Transpiration Rate
Once a day, look at the level of the nutrient solution, to see how much has been transpired/evaporated. Watching changes in this rate is an important piece of information regarding your plants. The lower the level in the reservoir, the more water is being transpired and evaporated.
Top Off the Reservoir
Easiest part of the day, add r/o water until the reservoir is re-filled. With automated float valve systems, I lose the transpiration info and the slight pH dip, without adding a way to calculate added gallons and possibly a timer on the fill valve.
Measure pH and PPM/EC/TDS
Once the reservoir is topped off to initial volume, check the pH and ppm/ec/tds. Write these numbers down to chart the progress of the reservoir.
Add Nutrients
When the pH hits 5.8, add nutrients. The nutrients act as a pH down. You'll add enough nutrients to return to your 5.4 or 5.5 starting point.
When Transpiration Slows
This is the point in flower when the plant begins moving from growing larger flowers to producing more oil. You'll notice the plants are not using as much solution, the level in the reservoir isn't as low each day.
Cut back on the amount of nutrients you add or pump out some solution and replace it with r/o water.
The goal is to match the previous transpiration rate.
Those are the Basics
This is the essence of lazy man's hydroponics. Setup is straightforward, daily management is quick and simple, results are smashing.
When Do You Dump the Reservoir?
5 days before harvest, pump that (should be) fairly weak solution out into the garden or on the lawn or flower beds outdoor. Replace the solution with r/o water.
When you start with r/o water and use only clean nutrients and compatible additives, your pH swing is natural and complete and your reservoir stays clean. There is no need to dump a perfectly healthy reservoir, other than before harvest.
Problems?
When all environmental and mentiond hydro conditions are met, and there are no other pest, algae, chemical offgassing or other issues, this method works 100% of the time.
Questions? Ask Below
and I'll be happy to share/help on subjects I have experience with.
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
Yeah, white hairs at 5% amber. Can YOU do that? Lemme see?
This is a thread about proper reservoir management and how easy hydro is. What advice do you see me not taking here, according to this grow method? That I should use tap water? That I should keep a steady pH and grow shit?
You obviously missed how many areas I've been and how long I've been sampling dispensary and street cannabis. I'm not some kid in a tiny town, growing a couple sick plants in the closet. lol Yes, I have an attitude, I'm subjected to low quality cannabis all the time. Cannabis grown by the standard methods pushed on all the growing sites. Yep.
I've always stated I'm looking for superior quality, and that I know it exists. Hell, I had some for a few weeks in 2008, was GREAT! Beat the shit out of anything I'd grown and sourced to date. I grow nearly the same quality now, just trying to bring that to the general table.
Nice you didn't learn anything. Keep your bud out of my bowl, thanks.
(edit: that's the last ignorant reply of yours I'll respond to. The intelligent growers here understand me already.)
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
See, you're an idiot. Tell me about my weed please sir. But I warning you, you're going to end up looking stupid.Yeah, white hairs at 5% amber. Can YOU do that? Lemme see?
This is a thread about proper reservoir management and how easy hydro is. What advice do you see me not taking here, according to this grow method? That I should use tap water? That I should keep a steady pH and grow shit?
You obviously missed how many areas I've been and how long I've been sampling dispensary and street cannabis. I'm not some kid in a tiny town, growing a couple sick plants in the closet. lol Yes, I have an attitude, I'm subjected to low quality cannabis all the time. Cannabis grown by the standard methods pushed on all the growing sites. Yep.
I've always stated I'm looking for superior quality, and that I know it exists. Hell, I had some for a few weeks in 2008, was GREAT! Beat the shit out of anything I'd grown and sourced to date. Just trying to bring that to the general table.
Nice you didn't learn anything. Keep your bud out of my bowl, thanks.
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
Let me see, white hairs on 5% amber bud. That's all. You made a crack about white hairs and nearly every photo I see of folks bud, it's all dark. Mine are usually quite colorful and light to white.
Go find another photo of Twister with white hairs.
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
This thread is really for questions about the hydro method.
Have questions about it you'd like answered, so you can understand it better? Go for it. Have immature crap you want to fluff up the thread with? Leave it at home, thanks.
Have questions about it you'd like answered, so you can understand it better? Go for it. Have immature crap you want to fluff up the thread with? Leave it at home, thanks.
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
Wrong again man. You're the one being immature by thinking you are the best grower and your way is the only way. You even said you wouldn't smoke my weed with out knowing one thing about the way I grow. That tells me and everyone else on RIU how full of shit you are.
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
See, more crap. Still saying I'm claiming to be the best. *sigh*
Come up with a real question and I'll answer it, gladly.
Come up with a real question and I'll answer it, gladly.
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
What makes you think you're qualified to give me advice?
Know your roll. Don't get mad because you're just an average grower.
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
Does this guy really believe that water only 100% organic is dirty weed? Hydrogaurd is dirty too? Wtf is wrong with this guy.
Douglas.Curtis
Well-Known Member
That's a good question. One that, apparently, has not been quantified yet.
I have my own guidelines though.
* Extremely lightweight ash, less than 1/3rd the volume of a tightly packed bowl should remain. This is without touching the ash or packing it down.
* Virtually zero "burnt matter" taste in the cannabis
* Zero nutrient taste when burned
* Zero crackling or sparking
* Zero cherrying. Meaning it goes out on its own when not being toked on.
* Extremely low heat ash. You can put your thumb over a freshly toked bowl and not burn it or even singe it, just get warm to almost hot.
Whatever that ends up testing out at, I'll let people know.