A few days ago I reversed airflow (as in pulling new warm air from top, exhausting from bottom. Got temps to 75-80 lights on / 66-70 lights off.small is good - but a solid, well insulated chamber with a reduced min. airflow will help you to keep higher temps.
real 300W led-light still means ~225W (~75%) of produced heat + ~75W(~25%) light, which then is converted to heat on the surface of the inlighted area, if it doesn`t serve for photosynthesis.
Avoid cool incoming air blowing onto wet roots. Keep them as dry as possible .They are the most sensitive part of a plant against cold. The micro-organisms don`t like it cold either
and insulating the bottom of your pots with a piece of rigid foam can help to keep them more activ.
In summer it`s good to have the incoming air at the bottom and outgoing at the top.
In winter you should use some meters of fan pipe to manage your airflow vice versa.
Some growers using the heat of the outgoing air to heat up the ingoing air with a selfmade heatexchanger.
I now added in another light and have temps 80-84 lights on / 66-70 lights off.
I'm kind of pissed they dont put the recommended temps on their site along with all the other relevant info such as height you should keep light. (they recommend 85-87 degrees)
I would have saved money and used the HPS I already own since its winter. I'm roughly half way through flowering and it's looking like yield is going to greatly suffer. (up until about half way lights on temp was 70-72/lights off 65-68 (I knew this was too cold but didnt realize how much worse these temps are for LED). These only seem to be good for growing when its warm. I really don't understand how small time growers can use these things in the winter when house temps are like 72 at best.
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