LED Strip Thermal Paste

boilingoil

Well-Known Member

skoomd

Well-Known Member
So at least for the strips running the lmc561c it looks like 25C is their testing standard for those chips.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201607/Data_Sheet_LM561C_Rev.7.0.pdf

So going by the individual chip specs, I say thermal management is important for these chip as you can see by the decline in luminous flux as the temps increase.
At least if you are trying to run them as efficiently as possible.
I think the flux and all of that is taken at 65c. I could be wrong though.
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
So at least for the strips running the lmc561c it looks like 25C is their testing standard for those chips.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201607/Data_Sheet_LM561C_Rev.7.0.pdf

So going by the individual chip specs, I say thermal management is important for these chip as you can see by the decline in luminous flux as the temps increase.
At least if you are trying to run them as efficiently as possible.
That's the spec sheet for the LM561C LED. Try looking at the spec sheet for the strips. It clearly states what temp they are spec'd at, which is 65C.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
That's the spec sheet for the LM561C LED. Try looking at the spec sheet for the strips. It clearly states what temp they are spec'd at, which is 65C.
That's correct but if they are using 561c diode's and those diodes are binned at 25 C where does the difference come from?
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
Sounds like you could benefit from the par meter. Lmao blaming everyone else as a bro bro but you fit the description 110%.
I have a number of them. Hydrofarm, Lic-cor and some that are just sensors connected to various manufacturers data loggers.

What's your definition of a 'bro bro' so we are all clear?
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
I never understood why Samsung tests those things at 65C. Even when I simply attached them to a simple alu U-channel (with no thermal paste) they run at below 50C.

Unless they expect manufacturers of lights with those strips to do even less in the way of thermal management than that.
 

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
Wrong like the paper I linked right? Are only the bridgelux data sheets correct? All hail bridgelux! Go eat your thermal paste dude. And inject it in your veins while your at it.
Lol he knows everything. Cant fuck with a know it all. Have yet to see any proof to back up any of his claims though. All he does is run his yap.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
That's correct but if they are using 561c diode's and those diodes are binned at 25 C where does the difference come from?
LM561c test are done with single diodes and for this tests usually 25 or 85°C case temps are used. It's also a pulsed measurment! 85° tests are made to get close to reality results.
An F-strip is a ready to use light module, many diodes are mounted to a PCB with copper core. The tests are done at 25°C T.ambient and with the bare strips running at nominal current(1,12 or 2,24A).
Case temps did stabilized at 65°C.
This means that single diodes must be additionally cooled(PCB, heatsink), while mounted on a PCB no further cooling is needed. The copper core PCB is already enough to keep the temps low!
The diodes in my lamp get about 60mA (SR 2ft f-strips @ 525mA = 58.33mA per diode), which is 5° below the test current and glued on a 1" c-channel they run with a maximum of 36°C(T.solderpoint), 35° on center measuring point(T.case)! The c-channels are only for stabilization because they are so flexible, but they are not really needed to cool the strips.

Try Samsung LED tools, they are very helpful in configuring a lamp.

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/support/tools/calculator-pkg
http://www.samsung.com/led/support/tools/engine-calculator/

And this PPFD calculator converts raw data of a light source to expected usable photoactive radiant power at different heights.

http://dev.edman007.com/~edman007/pub/par-dli-cal.html
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
Wrong like the paper I linked right? Are only the bridgelux data sheets correct? All hail bridgelux! Go eat your thermal paste dude. And inject it in your veins while your at it.

Did you get a PAR meter yet? Talk to your dad? Inquiring minds want to know!
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
LM561c test are done with single diodes and for this tests usually 25 or 85°C case temps are used. It's also a pulsed measurment! 85° tests are made to get close to reality results.
An F-strip is a ready to use light module, many diodes are mounted to a PCB with copper core. The tests are done at 25°C T.ambient and with the bare strips running at nominal current(1,12 or 2,24A).
Case temps did stabilized at 65°C.
This means that single diodes must be additionally cooled(PCB, heatsink), while mounted on a PCB no further cooling is needed. The copper core PCB is already enough to keep the temps low!
The diodes in my lamp get about 60mA (SR 2ft f-strips @ 525mA = 58.33mA per diode), which is 5° below the test current and glued on a 1" c-channel they run with a maximum of 36°C(T.solderpoint), 35° on center measuring point(T.case)! The c-channels are only for stabilization because they are so flexible, but they are not really needed to cool the strips.

Thank you for that explanation.

From my findings running the F-strips On the 3/4" u-channel the back of my channels run 44-46 C when running each 22" single row strips at 1.1 A. Using 1" heatsinks they run between 30-32 C with ambient temps at 75 degrees.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
Now for a little hijacking question. Why does it seem my plants are struggling under the strips.
DSCN0847.JPG
To me this looks like a heat or light intensity issue, but the strips are 18" above the plants and temps between 75-78 degrees.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Now for a little hijacking question. Why does it seem my plants are struggling under the strips.
View attachment 4129854
To me this looks like a heat or light intensity issue, but the strips are 18" above the plants and temps between 75-78 degrees.
check your watering habits imo...........also should paint the walls flat white or put up reflective material, it makes a difference

good luck
 
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