Led Users Unite!

DodgeRamFan73 said:

Thanks a bunch for the info! When you say 400W, are we talking actual draw of 400W, so I need what is advertised as 800W, or 400W with an actual 200W draw?


I've done all the grows in this area. My first grow I had MAD heat issues, but I took care of the ventilation, and the grows after that were all good. I made sure it is well ventilated with cool enough air being drawn in to keep heat around 80-85 F with a 600W HPS running at 75%, in the summer!

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rocknratm said:

400W actual draw. Like i said could get away with 200 or 300w. One of those amares is 300 and i think theres a riu discount so its close to 500. Get the 4 cob one not the 3 cob imo

Its just like car amps back in the day. I hate when companies advertise their max draw or peak. So dumb. All that matters is rms. Real power draw .
Great question btw!

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Diskokobaja said:

Then you have better attic than mine..On my attic it was hell on earth..

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DodgeRamFan73 said:

Thanks Rock! You answered my biggest question that I've had looking at these lights...should I be looking at the actual draw lol. Now I can sit down and actually research what I need! I knew something was up when I saw a light that advertised 1000w, but actual draw was 234w. I just had a gut feeling that I needed to be looking for something around the 400w draw, not what they advertise. It can be VERY confusing!

But this leads me to another question...If I'm running 450w on an HPS and switch to a 400w draw LED, other than the 50w difference, is there really any savings on the electric that is used?

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rocknratm said:

Nope draw is draw regardless. Some people say led put off less heat. I think it dissipates differently. Maybe slightly less heat... Just not as intense at the canopy which helps alot. Although i run mine like 2 feet away from the canopy so maybe even thats the same
I think that with 300w led you could get the same yield as 400w hps. Just my 2c tho. No evidence to back that. I shoot for the old gram a watt and come close with leds but always lose track.
Certainly not like the claims some companies make that are rediculous about replacing big hps with tiny leds. Like the 1000w advertised thats only 234w you mentioned. No way in heck that would yield like a 1000w hps.
I still love all my cobs tho.

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CobKits said:

you can also get them for $50 new in any number of places

it sure seems to be a flood of posts lately with people in a race to the bottom to find the cheapest cheapest of everything.

just remember if all leds and drivers were created equal wed all be using mars and roleadro.

considering you can buy a >160 lm/W cob chip for <$0.20/W and a driver with 7 year warranty for <$0.25/W you guys really wount have liked it a year or two ago when it was considerably more expensive.

as always you get what you pay for. im all for trying out new stuff but if peopel want to buy gear with no specs and act like its equivalent to the better LEDs, just because it can grow some plants are missing the mark. CFLs grow plants as well.

if people want to actually prove any of these as viable options they at least need to demonstrate that they can quantify their efficiency relative to known solutions

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rocknratm said:

4X4 to actually cover it 400w cobs.
You could get away with as little as 200w for 4 plants. Just dont expect great yields.
Tasty leds. Amare. Go green.
Those are my suggestions for cobs (amare cob and blurple combo)
Timber if you are handy and can throw a rail together.
Platinum for blurple but thats a step back imo

I think blurple are good too tho. Platinums are affordable. I dont use mine anymore but will come wintertime.

I know nothing of qb.

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Diskokobaja said:

Will this do the job?? for running one citize 1212 on 50w ?

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Growcob5 said:

Hay dude well i just got offer 320watt 2600mah invantic driver 114volt. 27cash wood buy

An what 1212 clu48 to smaill no what u thinking 1216 i dont have$$ for cree

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Growcob5 said:

Y

... you need to buy the one that has a round knob that turns you can run 120 volts to 220 volts DC AC either or through a light switch Deming spinning knob socket to be cheap about it you would like to damn your light you're gonna need it about something too damn you're late you're not going to be able to lower the wattage that does not have a dimmer

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goofy81 said:

Say you have 5 CXB3590's in series on 1400ma (roughly 34.7v each).
Anyone know what's the best way to replace 1 of the CXB's with a far red cob or far red LED's in series?) ie.
Is it ok if i replace it with any photo red LED (either series or parrallel) as long as its under 35v and can handle 1400ma safely and easily?
And if so, anyone have any LED suggestions for this? I dont mind using a few in parrallel if its underdriving them hard.

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biostudent said:

I got a question about LED wattage.

What's the practical difference between using a 50W cob versus 5x 10W cob? Or using 250x 0.2W chips? Don't they in they end all yield 50W worth of light?

I've always believed from what I've read that the higher wattage chips yield better results, that they penetrate beneath the canopy more. But I don't exactly understand the physics behind this logic.

Let's say I have two scenarios in which identical plants are grown under identical conditions,
A) a single plant grown under a 100W lamp consisting of 2x 50W 6500K chips.
B) a single plant grown under a 100W lamp consisting of 10x 10W 6500K chips.
What would be the difference in the end? And why?

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