Hybridway
Well-Known Member
Same thing. They run about 50w more though.
Led Users Unite!
- Thread starter project fuoro
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PuffDaily
Member
There really isn't much to chat about LED = $$$$$$$$ HID = $. Nuff said!
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
actually more to say
and in many cases will pay for itself in less than a year[7months for me] in hydro savings
and no more buying bulbs and over the top ac
then there are a few other factors..but 'nuff said'
PuffDaily
Member
Watts are Watts, Heat is Heat depending on your surroundings if you need AC.
MH & HP is what i like to use. Coverage is good production is good price up front is good.
LED is pretty.... and good from what I've seen and read. Not saying they are bad just the $$$$ doesnt add up.
MH & HP is what i like to use. Coverage is good production is good price up front is good.
LED is pretty.... and good from what I've seen and read. Not saying they are bad just the $$$$ doesnt add up.
Diskokobaja
Well-Known Member
yeah my 200$ 200w cob cree doesnt pay up..
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
just the $$$$ doesnt add up.<------what part about the paying for themselves in 7 months hydro did you miss
....been running HID[Mh/hps] since 1979
....been running HID[Mh/hps] since 1979
Diskokobaja
Well-Known Member
htf are u replaying??
retiredmechanic
New Member
I used to use hid back in the days, lately I have been playing with LEDs for about 6 yrs. I got hurt really bad at work about 4yrs ago and decided to retire. I was always good with electrical, so I really started playing. I learned how to use arduino over the past few yrs. How much fun! I've learned a lot over the yrs with LEDs. At this point I have 7" LCD touch screen controller running a 2.4ghz link to my led rails ,SD card datalogging, and relay controls. Each one will run at 12.5 amps @ 55 volts dc, 4 rails total. I run an 220v 3000w power supply to them which I also can control via radio link. Recently rewrote programs due to dead laptop, now run them at 62khz pulsing(on/off), and added more options for sun mode control. The rails, I basically call led engines, they have timing, radiators, fans, temp sensors, amps sensors, radios, and want to add LCD to each rail soon.
I also use a 350w water cooled Bluetooth one in my small room. Just basic with serial com menus and Bluetooth data.
All are cree xhp70's at 6500k with no focusing lenses. If run at 80% or more power load to the main led rails, I get sunburnt in 15minutes working under them and will fry plants 4 feet including our veggie garden stuff. I had to write a function to mimic the sun, that made a world of difference and saved power.
I know they work very well and cut my power costs from 600 down to 200(including house power and CNC machine).
Any ideas on what I should do with what I've done? I know the system could be even refined more, possibly solar powered assistance(i have plenty of programming space left on the old arduino megas for more functions).
I also use a 350w water cooled Bluetooth one in my small room. Just basic with serial com menus and Bluetooth data.
All are cree xhp70's at 6500k with no focusing lenses. If run at 80% or more power load to the main led rails, I get sunburnt in 15minutes working under them and will fry plants 4 feet including our veggie garden stuff. I had to write a function to mimic the sun, that made a world of difference and saved power.
I know they work very well and cut my power costs from 600 down to 200(including house power and CNC machine).
Any ideas on what I should do with what I've done? I know the system could be even refined more, possibly solar powered assistance(i have plenty of programming space left on the old arduino megas for more functions).
Logan Burke
Well-Known Member
The money is saved in the long term by reducing the electric bill....however if you just add a single 200w COB don't expect any kind of amazing result....it's just 200w. But you can expect for it to create better yields than 200w of HID or CFLs.
Logan Burke
Well-Known Member
I am not sure there is any set, official standard for that...it primarily depends on your space, environment, and temperatures. If your temperatures are not getting uncomftorbly warm, I would stay at 24". Personally I think it is a tad bit close, but you know that more than I do (your plants would've told you by now) whether or not it is too close. What are your temps, closed tent or open room, etc?
Logan Burke
Well-Known Member
I think I'm in love....
Nugachino
Well-Known Member
I've got both blurple cobs and their white light counterparts. Blurples do work. However. Their white cousins aren't as much strain on the eyes. And don't skew image hues when trying to diagnose plant issues.
My blurple wasn't cheap. But then again. It does have a whole wad of different lighting controls for selecting what spectrums to output and at what times.
It's only 90w of 2-3w diodes. But, makes for a good starter light if you're not diy savvy. And don't want more than 3 ounces.
My white cobs are a diy kit of two Vero 29, gen7's. Running at 182w. With a kelvin rating of 3500. I picked these because I was told the extra red would benefit me more come flower time, than if I'd stuck with the 4000k option- liked I'd originally planned.
I'm still piecing together the enclosure for the new Veros. Just need to get my fan and scrubber installed. Then I can get around to really testing them out. And yes. I know its all dodgy in there. I'm still working on getting this heavy mofo finished.
My blurple wasn't cheap. But then again. It does have a whole wad of different lighting controls for selecting what spectrums to output and at what times.
It's only 90w of 2-3w diodes. But, makes for a good starter light if you're not diy savvy. And don't want more than 3 ounces.
My white cobs are a diy kit of two Vero 29, gen7's. Running at 182w. With a kelvin rating of 3500. I picked these because I was told the extra red would benefit me more come flower time, than if I'd stuck with the 4000k option- liked I'd originally planned.
I'm still piecing together the enclosure for the new Veros. Just need to get my fan and scrubber installed. Then I can get around to really testing them out. And yes. I know its all dodgy in there. I'm still working on getting this heavy mofo finished.
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miguel7
Member
Its a closed tent with a few vents. Temp fluctuates from 70 to 80.
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Serva
Well-Known Member
I think, it doesn't depend so much on this
than on your LEDs. If you have 3 single 100W COBs, it's completely different, than having 3x QBs at 100W each. A few, but powerful lightsources (3 for the COBs) means, you will have strong hotspots, and an unevenly illumination, thats why you need to get your light up, till you reach the coverage, if you still get lightbleached, you need to move up higher, to avoid the hotspots. But with alot lightsources, because they are "weak" (864 for the QBs), you can go pretty close, because you don't have hotspots, and you already have a good coverage.
But the best thing is: test it out your own!
You can put the light closer, watch 24h, if they are still healthy, go closer again, until you see some lightbleach. Than you found out your personal minimum distance.Otherwise there is only the way to measure it properly, so you can define the most effective height.
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
with no cob reflectors i was able to get a good spread and can go very close to plant tops without any problems
reflectors was a different outcome for me..so i removed them
reflectors was a different outcome for me..so i removed them