Modified Jacks 321 schedule

rkymtnman said:
what ratio do you prefer?
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I prefer 2-1-2 or 2-1-3 (N-P2O5-K2O) all the way through at an EC of 1,2-1,3 (daily fertigation in a peat/perlite/vermiculite based soilless substrate). Nowadays i lean more toward 2-1-2 (after years of 2-1-3) as it was recommended by Dr. Bruce Bugbee from Utah State University for cannabis and so far it is working like a charm. That corresponds roughly to elemental N-P-K ppm of 120-26-100. Prior to trying this i was a bit sceptical about those low P and K numbers but it seems more than adequate and yield and quality are really excellent. Although i don't see that much of a difference to 2-1-3 which works equally as good in my experience.
 
rkymtnman said:
you can incorporate anything you want. but my question would be why? i run the same NPK ratio from start to finish with Jack's RO formual. what do you think the potassium sulfate and mkp would do?
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I was just asking. Im totally fine with running jacks only. Do u increase ppm/ec as you get farther into flower? Seems the plants would need something a lil extra in flower.
 
rkymtnman said:
you can incorporate anything you want. but my question would be why? i run the same NPK ratio from start to finish with Jack's RO formual. what do you think the potassium sulfate and mkp would do?
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Also I see tons of others incorporating mkp and potassium sulfate! So that's why I asked!!!
 
I just wanna keep it simple. I'm good with Jack's at 50% all the way through. Just seems I should lower the N and raise the P as I get farther into flowering.
 
This my first run with Jack's. I started full strength with the regular formula in my coco DTW. I started adding fulvic acid when it arrived from the seller which was about 3rd wk into the grow.

I use an 80% formula for the autoflower.

The plants seem to love it.
 
Offmymeds said:
This my first run with Jack's. I started full strength with the regular formula in my coco DTW. I started adding fulvic acid when it arrived from the seller which was about 3rd wk into the grow.

I use an 80% formula for the autoflower.

The plants seem to love it.
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I tried 3 2 1 exactly and burned the piss outta my plants in veg. Now it's more like 1.8, 1.2, .6.
Once I'm in flower shouldn't I reduce nitrogen and increase potassium.
 
Vonkins said:
Also I see tons of others incorporating mkp and potassium sulfate! So that's why I asked!!!
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i dont think you need to increase P or K. PK boosters are overused IMO. and Epsom would give you the Sulfur w/o the xtra K
Vonkins said:
I was just asking. Im totally fine with running jacks only. Do u increase ppm/ec as you get farther into flower? Seems the plants would need something a lil extra in flower.
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no, i feed mine dtw so i dont' increase strength.
 
rkymtnman said:
i dont think you need to increase P or K. PK boosters are overused IMO. and Epsom would give you the Sulfur w/o the xtra K

no, i feed mine dtw so i dont' increase strength.
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Take a look at this video from Utah State University. At 10:30 mins they show data that shows NO INCREASE in yield or THC/CBD if using 100 ppm phosphorus over 25 ppm P. So 25-50 ppm is all that one would ever need if at all. There is just no benefit in using more. Consider that some even push P as high as 200 or even higher that's almost 10 fold. That is by far not needed, it is just a waste and could even be detrimental by antagonizing/Interfering with calcium etc. So P "boosters" are indeed just a marketing invention, there even is no need for a special flowering formula. The industry wants people to believe it is but real scientific research shows it is not.

 
Audiofilet said:
Take a look at this video from Utah State University. At 10:30 mins they show data that shows NO INCREASE in yield or THC/CBD if using 100 ppm phosphorus over 25 ppm P. So 25-50 ppm is all that one would ever need if at all. There is just no benefit in using more. Consider that some even push P as high as 200 or even higher that's almost 10 fold. That is by far not needed, it is just a waste and could even be detrimental by antagonizing/Interfering with calcium etc. So P "boosters" are indeed just a marketing invention, there even is no need for a special flowering formula. The industry wants people to believe it is but real scientific research shows it is not.

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agreed.
i tell people if they need a PK booster, they need better base nutes.

i've gone from Lucas 1-2-2 (label NPK) to 3-1-4 using Jack's RO and my plants have never been happier
 
Audiofilet said:
Take a look at this video from Utah State University. At 10:30 mins they show data that shows NO INCREASE in yield or THC/CBD if using 100 ppm phosphorus over 25 ppm P. So 25-50 ppm is all that one would ever need if at all. There is just no benefit in using more. Consider that some even push P as high as 200 or even higher that's almost 10 fold. That is by far not needed, it is just a waste and could even be detrimental by antagonizing/Interfering with calcium etc. So P "boosters" are indeed just a marketing invention, there even is no need for a special flowering formula. The industry wants people to believe it is but real scientific research shows it is not.

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It's funny to me that they would make such a determination, when the data they post seems to indicate a 10% increase in TCH @ 100mg/L vs 25mg/L..

Screenshot (56).png
 
The money is better spent preventing pests, fungus, disease IMO. I'd also rather have garden tools & trimming tools before any supplements. I'm back to basics & simplicity with an eye on the VPD chart.

Are you ready for fungus gnats or caterpillars today or will you have to order something online & hope it gets here fast? Having some yellow cards, BTI & coarse vermiculite on hand sure beats gnat larvae eating your roots.
 
Offmymeds said:
The money is better spent preventing pests, fungus, disease IMO. I'd also rather have garden tools & trimming tools before any supplements. I'm back to basics & simplicity with an eye on the VPD chart.

Are you ready for fungus gnats or caterpillars today or will you have to order something online & hope it gets here fast? Having some yellow cards, BTI & coarse vermiculite on hand sure beats gnat larvae eating your roots.
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Silica helps to prevent pests, including PM and bud rot.
 
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