Molasses

^^eww man! dump that shit out and clean your res, I can only imagine what that looks like !! @@not hating , just sayin' !

PassItPlz said:

the molasses mix I made last week is smelling like vinegar, does anyone know if it's still good? It has not hurt anything so far

Click to expand...

"molasses mix" ?! what the heck is that ? i would tell you not to use it but i have no idea what you put in it.


soil

KUShSOurSMOKEr said:

yoOOOO IS HUMBOLT HONEY UNSULFERED MOLLASSES??????? I WAS WONDERING CUZ PEOPLE SAID THAT IS THE MOLLASSES U WANT TO USE???

Click to expand...

yes HH is very good shit , the "problem" is that it comes with a fancy , expensive label. when you run it against regular cheap molasses then you wont see any difference. if you already got it , then fine , but if you dont then go to the grocery store an pick up a bottle. not to mention the HH has a bunch of "filler".

the object is to feed the microbes to keep them healthy. if you feed with synthetic foods then you dont need the microbes help near as much as organic food.


soil

trichome fiend said:

here's what I found on it, it sounds like molasses with some additives.

Guaranteed Analysis

Soluble Potash (K20)……………………………..………………….…..1.0%
Sulfur (S)………………………………………………………………….0.5%
0.5% Combined Sulfur
Derived From: Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed, Lignin
ALSO CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS:
10% Molasses, 5% Glucose, 2% Yucca Extract.

Click to expand...

the seaweed an yucca makes this a lil better then molasses , but definatly not worth the extra money.




soil

Sunbiz1 said:

Hi all,

Just wanted to add something important when using molasses, you can use too much. The following pics are what happened when I decided to use 1/4 cup per gal last summer. This plant was a monster, almost 9'. I figured there was no way it could be harmed with all the surrounding vegetation etc...wrong!. It caused a N lockout, took me a month to correct it. As you can see, it actually was transpiring. Rather than feeding it N that it wasn't using, I took a balanced approach with a straight 10-10-10. It was a guess at the time, fortunately it worked.

Peace!

Click to expand...

i just had that happen to me a few times indoors.
here is my opinion on what happened: "normally" you have a bunch of organic matter in the dirt to supply the majority of the food, then we add carbs (molasses , sugar, paper, ect...) to give the microbes a lil more of what they want so that they multiply an make our dirt come to life.
Now when the microbes are down there feeding on poop an grass an shittin out plant food , they get too much carbs an then instead of creating a balanced diet for the plant, they are eating mainly carbs and leavin the main food supply alone, so your girl is only getting the derivitive of carbs (K mainly i think) and not getting a real diet.

i had the same thing happen and when i pulled them out of the pot , the dirt was very hot. (probably 90F or above) so basically my pot was more of a compost bin then a plant medium! plants were completely locked up.




dont mind me im just ripped an shittin all over the forum right now.




morning all! soil

kvnbeach said:

Yes, I do think the leaves are yellowing a liitle to early, but it is only the bottom fan leaves I believe I am root bound and water can't escape. She's in a 5 gallon container. I used miracle grow for dirt and I use Advanced Nutes. I have sensi-grow A and B and I have sensi-bloom part A & B. 1 teaspoon per gallon and I water every 2nd or 3rd day. I am on ground water. So no additives and it has a ph level of 6.5. I have done nothing else to it. So do you think I should drill some new holes in the container? It looks like the plant is drowning. She only has 3 maybe 4 weeks left, maybe less?
I've been wishing someone would notice that and talk to me about it. There may be nothing wrong with the plant.
Sensi Grow Part A:3-0-0 Sensi-Grow Part B:2-2-5
Sensi-Bloom Part A:4-0-4 Sensi-Bloom Part B:1-5-6

Click to expand...

yes drill a LOT of holes right NOW. aeration is the number one most important factor in growing. if you put just enough water in there then the plant will eat it all before it has time to hurt your roots, BUT you are asking for root rot. i would put at least 20 holes in a 5 gal bucket. (all the way up to the middle) 1/4" or 3/8" holes.

kvnbeach said:

Thanks. I will check it out. Someone else suggested that I use fish emulsion. Problem is when I water, theres no drainage. It used to drain. I poured 3/4 of a gallon of water into the 5 gallon pot and nothing came out. Should I buy a bigger pot and put dirt in the bottom of this. I am going to try the fish emulsion too.

Click to expand...

it used to drain ? so you do have holes. 3/4 of a gallon of water aint much to a 5 gallon bucket. so as i suspected you are not over watering even though your aeration/drainage is poor. good deal. this could have been a disaster and you prevented that.

what you should have been doing awhile back is to wait till you know the dirt is dry then dump a couple of gallons in there so that you know every part of the dirt got moist. then repeat when its time. you should have plenty of runoff that way. (because the roots fill up the pot all the way an create a lil more drainage)

now the best thing you can do is to drill a LOT more holes in the bucket on the sides an shit , then wait till she is all the way dry , then run enough water through the pot to see plenty of runoff.
well she looks good now so even better would be to just drill the extra holes an continue the same diet and amounts you been on. (with slight adjustments for the extra N /def.)


when you look at the plant it looks like there is a lil too much N , going by the bud structure , but when you see the older leaves you see an N def.
its possible you already corrected a N def ? did you up the food lately?





soil

mollasses will drop ph by several points in ur nute solution. Get some ph up if ur gonna use

jpill said:

^^eww man! dump that shit out and clean your res, I can only imagine what that looks like !! @@not hating , just sayin' !

Click to expand...

lol....maybe had some yeast residual in that bottle from making some co2. Changed bottles

molasses is great . Try to stay away from molasses like this if your already using synthetic nutrients.

http://www.wholesomesweeteners.com/brands/Wholesome_Sweeteners/Fair_Trade_Certified_Organic_Blackstrap_Molasses.html

jpill said:

molasses is great . Try to stay away from molasses like this if your already using synthetic nutrients.

http://www.wholesomesweeteners.com/brands/Wholesome_Sweeteners/Fair_Trade_Certified_Organic_Blackstrap_Molasses.html

NUTRITIONAL FACTS (Typical analysis*) Serving Size: measure: 1 Tablespoon (22g) Servings per package: 32 Calories per serving: 60 Calories from fat: 0 Total fat (g): 0 Saturated fat (g): 0 Cholesterol (mg): 0 Sodium (mg): 0 Potassium: 730mg Calcium: 115mg Total carbohydrate (g):14g Dietary fiber (g): 0 Sugars (g): 10g Proteins (g): 0 Iron: 15% RDV Vitamin B6: 10% RDV Magnesium: 8% RDV ​

Click to expand...

why ? molasses is molasses.




soil

cary schellie said:

mollasses will drop ph by several points in ur nute solution. Get some ph up if ur gonna use

Click to expand...

that dont apply to dirt. an molasses in the res is not really gonna help much. its a carb to feed soil. it wont do too much help in water.



soil

wyteboi said:

that dont apply to dirt. an molasses in the res is not really gonna help much. its a carb to feed soil. it wont do too much help in water.



soil

Click to expand...

Good morning,

Here is what happens when too much molasses is used. Now imagine multiplying all the added bacteria out in the woods, and it's of little wonder why my plant wilted and yellowed.

http://www.thesoilguy.com/SG/Molasses

Fuck, this article does not allow text pasting, you'll have to scroll down near the bottom.

Addition of foods that cause rapid bacterial growth can tie-up nitrate nitrogen so fast, and so effectively that plant growth can be harmed, and even stopped. Bacteria win in competition with plants for N in soil, and thus plants can be killed as the result of lack of N. Of course, the solution to this problem is NOT to kill the bacteria, but rather to establish normal nutrient cycling processes once again. How? Get the protozoa and bacterial-feeding nematodes back to work!

Addition of foods that cause rapid bacterial growth can tie-up nitrate nitrogen so fast, and so effectively that plant growth can be harmed, and even stopped. Bacteria win in competition with plants for N in soil, and thus plants can be killed as the result of lack of N. Of course, the solution to this problem is NOT to kill the bacteria, but rather to establish normal nutrient cycling processes once again. How? Get the protozoa and bacterial-feeding nematodes back to work!

The molasses I listed add a lot of potassium,calcium, and iron. I add these myself so it sort of fucks me up. The molasses trichrome fiend listed and the molasses I listed are very different !

jpill said:

The molasses I listed add a lot of potassium,calcium, and iron. I add these myself so it sort of fucks me up. The molasses trichrome fiend listed and the molasses I listed are very different !

Click to expand...

what fiend was talking about was humboldt honey.
your talking about molasses and it says right on your bottle whats in it? they did not add anything to it. it has the same nutrition as any other backstrap unsulpherated molasses.
there is not enough plant food in molasses to matter...... same with the humboldt honey. its a carb thats all.




soil

thanks wyte boi so ur saying that humbolt honey is good shit ? but how is it different then regular mollasses?

KUShSOurSMOKEr said:

thanks wyte boi so ur saying that humbolt honey is good shit ? but how is it different then regular mollasses?

Click to expand...

yes its very good shit. it is a very weak food derived from seaweed with added molasses , glucose and yucca.
molasses is molasses. thats the only ingredient.

they are both carbs to feed the microbes , but the HH has other goodies in it and the molasses is a much stronger carb.

i would stick to molasses unless you already have the honey.




soil

I've used it in the past but didn't notice much of a difference besides sticky ass runoff water. Use too much too often and you're asking for ants. I say skip it.

Placebo effect if you ask me.

True unless you have an active fungal and bacteria community in your soil when a carb like molasses feeds the micro organisms and encourages accelerated nutrient exchange.

the more life in your soil the more stress they can take. .... the more food they can eat , an the more sun they can use. the plant an soil are in a symbolic relationship , so why not treat the soil like you do the plant. plus the soil is in charge of your babies uptake so treat her good!

i recommend molasses for ANY setup using dirt. it dont matter if you can "see" the difference ..... its there.



soil