Hybridway

Well-Known Member
If you look at the link I provided it shows the top of the 450 and there are two plugs. One for power and one for daisy chain
One for powering the light & 1 for the separate UVB that you can put on a timer if you'd like. Actually I don't think the lights are designed to be daisychained although you can put up to 1400 - 1600 W on one circuit. I run my circuits out around 1200-1300 to not stress them. So a simple splitter will allow you to run more than one light on a circuit but not to pro nine's unless you have a 20 or 30 amp circuit.
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
One for powering the light & 1 for the separate UVB that you can put on a timer if you'd like. Actually I don't think the lights are designed to be daisychained although you can put up to 1400 - 1600 W on one circuit. I run my circuits out around 1200-1300 to not stress them. So a simple splitter will allow you to run more than one light on a circuit but not to pro nine's unless you have a 20 or 30 amp circuit.
Ah my apologies I keep forgetting about the UV bulb in the middle.
 

ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
One for powering the light & 1 for the separate UVB that you can put on a timer if you'd like. Actually I don't think the lights are designed to be daisychained although you can put up to 1400 - 1600 W on one circuit. I run my circuits out around 1200-1300 to not stress them. So a simple splitter will allow you to run more than one light on a circuit but not to pro nine's unless you have a 20 or 30 amp circuit.
Why not? I want to put 2 on a 15 amp circuit. What do I do?

Btw, all johnsins are daisy chainable
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
@Hybridway what fixture do you use for your T5 setup? Not the bulbs but the fixture itself?

also what bulbs would you run for a smaller 4 bulb setup?

Thanks
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Victor said the pro 9 pulls 8.2 amps at 110v. Is that high? What is at at 120v?
I grow with 100amp service using 220v. It cuts the amperage in half. This is my HPS. The new LED room will all be 220v as well.
image.jpg

No LED light over 600 w should be daisy chained in my opinion.
Growing with 220 is the most efficient.
These guys on this forum cry n cry about efficency, then they go run all their gear on 120, but act like efficiency nazis like they have a clue. I get such a kick out of it.
Ha! I can't get into it.
Anyways. You will need to run a cord from another 15a circuit to run 2 Pro-9's it sounds like. No biggie I hope. Good luck! Hope this helps.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Any T-5 fixture from the grow-store or most on-line. I forget what mine are. Here's my current veg a few days ago using my select spectrum that I'm real happy with.
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
As some of these LED companies would say, it's our Propriatery Blend! LOL!

Only Kidding! I'll get back to you w/ that!
Might be earlier in this thread. On page 8 of my SunCloak thread though!
 
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Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro I sent you a message with a couple of questions. I found the fixture I wanted just trying to find the bulbs. I appreciate the help.
 

SoOLED

Well-Known Member
I just stopped using T5's for veg. I had 16 4f lines @ 730 watts. Im just use a single SK 300+ w/120 325 watts

IMHO I feel like they getting faster recovery times from topping. I water less. And don't need the top fan any more.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
67k Coral-life's on the ends for the seedling & clone - small plant - time to get roots going phases / 10k's once they're out of their 6" Potts or 3 weeks in.
The Color-Max's are my replacement for Power Veg's. In conjunction with 10k's.
Always have UGW's present.
It works real well but keep in mind it will be allot different then growing with any straight K-Temps. So expect abnormal compact growth. Kind've like some R+B LEDs but with enough white to keep them right.
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
67k Coral-life's on the ends for the seedling & clone - small plant - time to get roots going phases / 10k's once they're out of their 6" Potts or 3 weeks in.
The Color-Max's are my replacement for Power Veg's. In conjunction with 10k's.
Always have UGW's present.
It works real well but keep in mind it will be allot different then growing with any straight K-Temps. So expect abnormal compact growth. Kind've like some R+B LEDs but with enough white to keep them right.
Thanks for the help bro, I ordered some agromax bulbs last night to try out, if they suck not too much $$ invested and I will give the wave length bulbs a try. But the spectrum will be very similar to what you have described. I will toss my four foot Pure UV bulb in there with the other 7 bulbs. This is getting fun.....

Does the arrangement of the bulbs in the fixture matter?
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Really can't wait to get my Amare back up n running though for veg & flower.
Only had to chance to veg with it for like 5-7 days w/ the big GG's in this thread. The plants loved it though.
The Amare is what inspired me to do this w/ my T-5 as its already set up in the pre-veg room.
Hopefully I'll have another Grow show for everyone soon. Building a new room that will be permanent.
I'll be ordering my new Amare lights shortly.
 

ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
That Illumitex Neosol has really caught my eye... Any interest Hybrid?

What I don't understand is the Pro9 pulls 8.2amps, but the Neosol only draws 500Watts. Why the huge power difference?
 
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ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
Screw it. I'm going with the Pro9 for now and then picking up the new Johnson Grow light in a few weeks and throwing them both in my 5x9. I just hope I have enough Amps! The Pro9 runs at 8.2 already!
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
You should get some Tasty Lights to compare :P
They are to small for me & it's compromise in my eyes to use white only over enhanced when I'm now done experimenting & know what's best for me. They are great lights though. My room is going all Amare, I cannot afford to Yeild anything less then my plants fullest potential I can accomplish. The enhanced spectrum or full PAS lighting is the only way to accomplish full morphology. Probobly not the right word but I hope you get you get what I mean. Plus the high levels of light delivered & removable lenses with reflectors allows me to control my intensity. (These put out tons of umols) if they charged a $1 a umol at almost any hight under 2' w/o lenses, they'd be too expensive. Personally, I want to activate every receptor in my plants photosynthetic abilities the best I can.
To me half the point of growing with LED is to be able to use the spectrum you & your plants want. Not limited.
But the all white lights will give you great results. Allot better then my Hydroponics Hut light that has a "spectrum that will exceed the growth of the sun itself"! LMFAO if I wasn't the victim. I knew one would do better then the other but damn, that's just too much!
I was going to do the side by side to see exactly how much the differance is but I have a good idea just from growing experience & what I've seen using different types of light sources.
That Illumitex Neosol has really caught my eye... Any interest Hybrid?

What I don't understand is the Pro9 pulls 8.2amps, but the Neosol only draws 500Watts. Why the huge power difference?
I liked The Illumitex when I first started learning about LED growing but not so much any more. Last I knew, they weren't very efficient & BML blew them away IMO. Mad $$$ too.
The Pro-9's are designed for professional or commercial applications. Not that they have to be but following basic electrical guidelines while building your room will help you significantly. So, most Pro-9 owners would run it on 220v which would equal 4.1amps. Easy-peacey. It's Actually not hard at all. Save money on your electric bill too.
That's why I laugh at the efficiency nazis here that run off 110-120 n 15 amps then cry they have the most efficient light out. Maybe they could but not the way they run it. So, they just wanna bitch n puke data sheets that they don't understand. Efficiency equals Yeild per/Watt used. If I get a higher Yeild n quality with an all green 530nm light at the same wattage as its comparator, no matter what the data, then it's more efficient as the goal is highest quality yield. Get me? So many don't understand cuz their so caught up n data & being know it all's. What Yeilds you the most with the same electricity is what is most efficient. End of story. I don't care if it says it's only 25% efficient on a data sheet compared to a 50-60%. Fact.
 
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Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
They are to small for me & it's compromise in my eyes to use white only over enhanced when I'm now done experimenting & know what's best for me. They are great lights though. My room is going all Amare, I cannot afford to Yeild anything less then my plants fullest potential I can accomplish. The enhanced spectrum or full PAS lighting is the only way to accomplish full morphology. Probobly not the right word but I hope you get you get what I mean. Plus the high levels of light delivered & removable lenses with reflectors allows me to control my intensity. (These put out tons of umols) if they charged a $1 a umol at almost any hight under 2' they'd be mad expensive. Personally, I want to activate every receptor in my plants photosynthetic abilities the best I can.
To me half the point of growing with LED is to be able to use the spectrum you & your plants want. Not limited.
But the all white lights will give you great results.
I was going to do the side by side to see exactly how much the differance is but I have a good idea just from growing experience & what I've seen using different types of light sources.

I liked The Illumitex when I first started learning about LED growing but not so much any more. Last I knew, they weren't very efficient & BML blew them away IMO. Mad $$$ too.

I know bro was just jazzing you, we have discussed the full spectrum thing before and I am in agreement.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
The al white COB huggers will go as far as to argue there is no supporting evidence that HIGH CRI has a benefit to our plants. That's funny. It's plenty of documentation with LED that's selectively ignored. But how bout the huge Yeilds of dank people are getting off one 315 CMH in comparison to a 400 watt HPS. Bith throw out such low umol that we shouldn't even be able to flower properly with them. But the CMH smashs it almost as good as a 600 HPS. That's full PAS lighting as we can achieve it today.
More ignored data.
Whatever though. To each his own. That's the busty of it. With LED, there's always an option that suits what you desire. I know I'm trying to give my girls all I can as they give me sooooo much love in return!
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
The al white COB huggers will go as far as to argue there is no supporting evidence that HIGH CRI has a benefit to our plants. That's funny. It's plenty of documentation with LED that's selectively ignored. But how bout the huge Yeilds of dank people are getting off one 315 CMH in comparison to a 400 watt HPS. Bith throw out such low umol that we shouldn't even be able to flower properly with them. But the CMH smashs it almost as good as a 600 HPS. That's full PAS lighting as we can achieve it today.
More ignored data.
Whatever though. To each his own. That's the busty of it. With LED, there's always an option that suits what you desire. I know I'm trying to give my girls all I can as they give me sooooo much love in return!
Me too buddy, my CMH shipped today as well as the new tent and my new T5 fixture. So hopefully this weekend I will be like a kid at Xmas setting up a new flower tent. Then the big question, who goes into the new tent with the cmh......... decisions, decisions..........

again thanks for your help and advice via PM.
 
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