My basement corner Aero garden!

I didn't know the covers were supposed to come off...initially I put the foam lids on there because the seedlings were stretching a lot and looked like they would tip over any time.

Yeah...I've been trying not to open it up much. Just trying to figure out how to get even mist coverage.

After some testing on the empty flower tent bins I realized I made a huge mistake placing the mister near the top like that. By placing it much closer to the bottom and aimed toward the center of the lid it fills the entire bin with mist and doesn't leave drops all over the wall like it was doing before.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I didn't know the covers were supposed to come off...initially I put the foam lids on there because the seedlings were stretching a lot and looked like they would tip over any time.

Yeah...I've been trying not to open it up much. Just trying to figure out how to get even mist coverage.

After some testing on the empty flower tent bins I realized I made a huge mistake placing the mister near the top like that. By placing it much closer to the bottom and aimed toward the center of the lid it fills the entire bin with mist and doesn't leave drops all over the wall like it was doing before.
Ya normally the rockwool gets covered with some grow stones or hydroton. It will grow allege if lights hit it. So what you’ve done is good. But there going to get big so you’ll have to cover them with something. Roots look awesome btw.
 
Got the covers off the rockwool cubes. The lower placement of the mist head is 200% better than before. The main reason I kept taking photos of the roots was that I could tell that not all of the root systems looked equally developed and was pretty worried about the areas that lost their hairs. Seems I was so tunneled on just getting the system up and running that I lost track of some of the basics.

The mist head was slightly off-center so the plant closest to it was getting a pretty good blast of atomized mist but the other two were only getting a little bit and the rest of the droplets were hitting the wall and not spreading out evenly. They were growing, but the plants farther away were losing their root hairs further down and looked kind of sparse.

Now, with the mist head about 8 inches from the bottom and aimed at the center of the lid it creates a huge cloud of mist and almost none is wasted at the end of the cone where it reaches the top of the chamber.

I'm done taking root photos for now since once again you can see the very fine hairs all the way up and down the root bundles.. I think I need to dial back the mist time, however. It's currently activating the solenoid for 1.25 seconds. Any time I opened the lid just a tiny bit to look in there you can see the mist floating like a thick fog and the roots kind of sparkle from little spots of accumulation.

I guess it's just a matter of how far back to dial it without going too far. Finally switched them to a 20/4 light schedule. Seems like a bit of a debate over how much light is best, but I notice they definitely perk up after the dark period and slowly "relax" toward the end of the day.

I'm still a little confused about @myke's post because I thought when you clone in HPA and grow in HPA there's no need for a medium at all since the roots are hanging straight down and grow outward around the pot with little extra water pulling them down. Wouldn't the roots/stem just rest on the bottom of the net cup or should I look at getting some hydroton to help distribute the weight? Not going to grow huge monsters.....once the roots are established they're going straight to flower.

Thanks!
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Ya nothing wrong with just the net pots. Hydroton just helps block the light. Just some reflective material will also work.
the roots sure look different then a dwc grow.Pulling up a chair for the rest.
 
Hey everyone! I spent a lot of time reading and absorbing information throughout this past year before finally arriving here. I love the community and all the knowledge sharing that goes on here.

I'm more knowledgeable in electronics engineering and chemistry than biology and genetics so this has been a great learning experience and hope to keep it going!

I constructed a large BOM before making any purchases and revised it several times based on what I learned from other people's mistakes and shared knowledge -- ty to Atom & all the others who shared their years of experience!

I was going to do my write-up on the MIT OpenAg site, but their future sounds uncertain so I'm just going to avoid it for now.

This is only my second MMJ grow. My first one was this summer, in soil pots in my back yard. After having to pick so many random seeds out of my herb I decided to take it inside.

I have some Cookies 'n Kush seeds as well as some Super Bud seeds and will be starting with a couple motherplants and will take cuttings as soon as they are big enough. I also bought a few packs of kale and stevia to try growing if there's any extra space outside the flowering tent.

So far I've got everything except the flower tent lighting and ventilation. I plan to order lighting from Digi-key in the next few days. I'm really liking the sounds of the Gen3 Bridgelux strips that don't require a heatsink when run at low power levels.

I'm not sure how much of a problem the negative air pressure is going to be with approx ~200CFM exiting the flowering tent. The basement isn't directly connected to the house, you have to go through the garage to get down here, but there is a vent into the basement from the furnace/AC.

Here's my BOM and design document: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PBExDBjCWoRktsUr1cME1Rk_sxHIM531YJPWgXNTr10/

I think I am just about ready to mix my first nutes, germinate some seeds in rockwool, and get started but there are a couple final things I have sort out starting with how many more misters I need to order (if any) and what that means for water usage.

If it's possible to situate the misting nozzle directly in the middle of the 32 gallon trash bin it might provide enough coverage to get everything, but when it is connected to 12 inches of tube, facing directly upward it doesn't always produce mist because after a misting or two a bead of water begins forming in the center of the Tefen mist head and on subsequent mistings it just makes the bead bigger instead of spraying outward. (woops!)

Having the mist head at a slight angle eliminates this problem, but the bulk of the mist cone ends up being slightly lop-sided for the container. It does seem to cover most of the container when fixed against the wall, but I have a feeling when it's full of roots it may not work so well.

The other option I considered for the Tefen misters is purchasing a solenoid with 1/8" threads and sealing it with silicon tape and placing that in the middle, again held in place with a guide-wire or something else but I think it may have the same "bead problem" anyways. Air-assisted might be the way to go but I don't really have space for an air-compressor here.

Here are a few photos of the bins with active mist. I had to turn the lights off and use a flashlight to really see the spray pattern. There are more here: https://imgur.com/a/UbWZK7s

View attachment 4430554
View attachment 4430555View attachment 4430557

Here's a better view of what the actual grow space looks like, I still have to finish wrapping it in vapor barrier and constructing the tent:

The room itself is 12' x 5' but I only plan to make the flowering tent 4x4.

View attachment 4430560


Any advise, suggestions or tips are highly appreciated. I'll try to take pictures any time I make a major change or see something noteworthy.

Cheers!
Wow! That's amazing! I've always been organic soil but this is quite interesting. I've got to do some research now! Very nice indeed! Thanks for sharing. ... :-)
 
Thanks! Yeah...everything seems to be pretty dialed in for the motherplant bin....I've been taking photos every time the lights turn on and before they turn off. Seeing growth on every photo. Should make a neat time lapse if I keep it up.

Re-adjusted all the misters to prep the flower tent/cloning bin. Hopefully will be able to take clones in the next few weeks.

I think I might be able to turn the mist duration down to 800ms and reduce the interval to 45-50s. Going to give it a few more days and see how they look. Right now they're at 1s mist every 65s interval with lights on and 115s interval when lights off and it seems pretty good, but don't want to waste nutes/oversaturate.

The nodes on the cookies plant have decent size branches already and the other two are a little behind, but the root systems look excellent now. I'm sure they'll all explode soon enough. I tried to bend the cookies over a bit to see if LST was going to be viable but the net pot kinda lifted right up out of the hole. Might just top them instead. In fact, I haven't really considered how I'm going to handle these plants all vegging once I take the first set of clones...probably will have to take one of them out to flower.

A few days ago I reached down and chopped the long runner roots that were growing hydroponically in the pool of solution. Took a couple quick peeks since then, and they have stopped growing down and are mostly getting fatter/hairier now. Can't imagine what it will be like once they've been in there for a few months. Probably going to require lots of root trimming. lol :bigjoint:
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
I have my dry nutes out rn and am about to whip up another batch of nutes for the next week or so.

I just noticed that the gross error on Sulfur is pretty high into negative territory.

The first window on the right shows the breakdown of the substances. As you can see from the 3rd image, if I go to a 2-1-2 solution there's no problems with gross error. It's completely fine if I use K as the degree of freedom. The other choice for DoF is using NO3- since these are the only 2 substances available in more than 1 compound.

Does anyone think that this much of a sulfur deficiency would cause any problems? I read up a bit and I don't *think* it matches the problems the Super Buds are having, but then again I don't have the same choice of compounds available rn that the breeders do.

I just used the default value for S since I didn't notice it mentioned much in any of the nutrient articles...I guess that's the only reason I am questioning it.

I think I'm going to go with this for another week or so, then change the formulation since the super buds should have grown up a bit more. Unless I can find any good info to convince me to change it earlier.

Here's the 2-1-1 formulation I'm currently using:

View attachment 4468018

S as DoF:

View attachment 4468019

Here's a 2-1-2 formula with almost zero deficiencies using K as the DoF:

View attachment 4468028
Why not just replace a portion of the mag nitrate with mag sulphate? Those nitrogen numbers look very high as it is?
 
For sure...once I realized you can get pure epsom salt at the pharmacy I picked some up and that fixed the 2-1-1 nutrient balance to almost no error on any of the elements and have been using that for at least a week now.

Veg2-1-1.png

I was going off the Green House Seed Co recommendation for the young plants. In their video, they only vegg'd a short time then switched to 1-2-1 for flowering.


They seem to be doing alright...just noticed there is a bit of browning on a couple leaves but the growth is so much better now that the roots are growing aeroponically again.

I've actually been thinking a lot about what kind of nutrient formula to use for cloning and trying to find some info on that but apparently cloning gels and other secret sauces are huge profit-makers because internet searches that mention cloning are heavily advertised. I was thinking about just using the same formula and just reducing the EC a bit.

The first pic here has the brown-ish spots highlighted. The second super bud plant doesn't appear to have any and one of the lower leaves on the big cookies plant has a few areas of brown that look very similar....looks a bit different than the suspected fertilizer droplet burns.

I can get better pictures when the lights are back on, but I'm not super concerned about it yet...

superbud1.jpg

Also snapped a couple quick root shots with my phone the other day when I was doing a quick checkup. The smallest plant looks to have the healthiest, highest ratio of fuzz/roots.

superbud2.jpgcookies.jpgfuzzyroots1.jpgfuzzyroots2.jpg
 
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OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
For sure...once I realized you can get pure epsom salt at the pharmacy I picked some up and that fixed the 2-1-1 nutrient balance to almost no error on any of the elements and have been using that for at least a week now.

View attachment 4477666

I was going off the Green House Seed Co recommendation for the young plants. In their video, they only vegg'd a short time then switched to 1-2-1 for flowering.


They seem to be doing alright...just noticed there is a bit of browning on a couple leaves but the growth is so much better now that the roots are growing aeroponically again.

I've actually been thinking a lot about what kind of nutrient formula to use for cloning and trying to find some info on that but apparently cloning gels and other secret sauces are huge profit-makers because internet searches that mention cloning are heavily advertised. I was thinking about just using the same formula and just reducing the EC a bit.

The first pic here has the brown-ish spots highlighted. The second super bud plant doesn't appear to have any and one of the lower leaves on the big cookies plant has a few areas of brown that look very similar....looks a bit different than the suspected fertilizer droplet burns.

I can get better pictures when the lights are back on, but I'm not super concerned about it yet...

View attachment 4477648

Also snapped a couple quick root shots with my phone the other day when I was doing a quick checkup. The smallest plant looks to have the healthiest, highest ratio of fuzz/roots.

View attachment 4477649View attachment 4477645View attachment 4477646View attachment 4477647
Definitely a bunch of Secret Sauce bro products on the market.
I wouldn't think you would need to go much over 1.0 ec in your aeroponic setup.
Could be a bit of burning on those leaf tips but it is odd that the plants overall aren't much darker green with the nitrogen ppm levels you have posted :peace:
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Your micro nutrient concentration look a bit low compared to what would be considered some what "standard" in hydroponics

4-18-38 2.4g : G.png
 
Hmm...maybe it is a little burning at the tips. Here are some closer up pics of the areas of concern:
DSC_1032.JPGDSC_1033.JPGDSC_1034.JPGDSC_1036.JPGDSC_1037.JPGDSC_1038.JPGDSC_1039.JPGDSC_1040.JPG

I'll dilute the nutes down a bit and see if that helps.

As for the micros, I just looked through the different formulations in HydroBuddy and picked ones that seemed "about average" and not too low. I don't really know how much they need.
 
Ok so the leaf-burn is spreading a little now and after briefly reading some of the trouble-shooting posts on here I'm moderately confident that this was because of too high nute levels.

I did drain the the tank before switching to the lower PPM nutes yesterday. I also reduced the mist-time to 750ms every 60s instead of 1000ms every 65s.

The EC is now about 1.0 and I also put an additional full dose of micros in along with the dilution. (I had prepped the usual 1.5 EC nutes but after these last few posts, decided to dilute it down) I guess I need to do some more research on micros... Berries, melons and peppers all have wildly different amounts for certain micros in hydrobuddy....not sure if that part is more art than science. :blsmoke:

These are the ones I think are nute-burned.

DSC_0004.JPGDSC_0005.JPGDSC_0006.JPGDSC_0007.JPG

These young leaves on the big plant appear to be curling a bit....is this what gets described as cupping?

DSC_0002.JPGDSC_0011.JPGDSC_0012.JPG

Finally...the smallest plant isn't showing any signs of stress at all....it missed most of the mist at the start of the grow and has almost all aeroponic roots:

DSC_0009.JPG
 
Welp...I've definitely learned my lesson on over-feeding.

Spent the weekend digging through all the old posts and finally found the one where Atom was talking about the nutrient levels he uses in his HPA system. For tomatoes and strawberries his EC is only 0.4-0.5. He mixes it at 1.5 - 2.0 then dilutes it for putting in the tank.

Even after draining the tank and reloading it at EC1.0 the burn areas continued to grow and I even noticed some areas starting to burn on the two plants that seemed mostly immune so far.

Of course, I realized that once the roots were mostly covered in the aeroponic hairs is when the nute burn began to set in....

I didn't drain the tank today, but I did dilute it down to about EC 0.3. I think I may actually flush it overnight tomorrow with just plain RO water.

I also topped the cookies plant since it already has 5-6 solid nodes and the youngest leaves were showing signs of burn and I didn't want to see how that played out, since I was thinking about topping it anyways so it would bush out some. If these two strains appear to have such different nutrient requirements, I might just flower one strain at a time so I'm not battling nutrient problems when it matters the most.

crisped.jpgcrispybud.jpgouch.jpg

Here's a couple pics of the freshly topped cookies:

tipsup.jpgcookies.jpgfreshtopped.jpgtop.jpg

Today I noticed the runt-sized Super Bud plant appeared to have droopier leaves than normal...not sure what that's about. Maybe just in my head. You can see a tiny bit of tip burning on it, though:

droopybaby.jpgbabybud.jpgsuperbud2.jpg
 
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