where would you find that at.
same material in the back drops used in still photography or portraits, correct?
Just Google "lighting sheet". It comes in many forms, from textured and white(enamels/powder coat, typically) to smooth, bright, and highly specular polished metal(almost always aluminum).
It is sheet used specifically for light reflectors, and more specifically the walls, so that light is not wasted. It comes in various forms. Usually cheaper, less efficient sheet is used for walls. And the higher quality sheet is used for internal reflectors.
It's basically just aluminum sheet metal. There's not really a big difference between regular Al foil and the highest end aluminum reflectors. About 11-14% maximally(400-700nm wavelengths exclusively), comparing ideal surfaces. The main benefit is durability(decades), and consistency, as normal aluminum oxide(tarnish) affects the spectral reflectivity somewhat unevenly, but is a constant decay across the spectrum. Though, this still takes years to become significant, and you can always clean and polish the surface back to like-new.
Depending on the specific coating(s), can greatly change lighting sheet UV(ultraviolet) and IR(infrared) reflectivity. Sometimes for the better, sometimes not. UV is somewhat useful for plants(more so for flowering). If you include some of both of these regions, say 350-750nm wavelengths, then lighting sheet could be over 20% superior to regular aluminum surfaces, or much less, depending on the coating(s).
Mylar films are also, sometimes, used for window tinting, usually with metallic microscopically thin reflective coatings(often tin, Sn, a white metal, as it's a great visible light reflector, near-visible UV and IR not so much).
Tin metalization(Mylar aka polyester aka PET, or nylon films) is how you can keep your privacy, but allow radiant heat in and out, and is often used in films for homes and cars when this is desired.
They also create microscopically thin aluminum films that pretty much block everything(radiance) just about equally(+/- 10%, roughly). With varying degrees: 10%, 30%, 60%, and even over 90%. The thickness of the metalization determines this.
Other metals, and other compounds can be used to fine-tune what(radiance) is blocked and what's not.
I bring all that up because you should understand that the
thickness of your reflective(aluminized) Mylar is crucial to the effectiveness of reflectivity. The thicker, the better. Which is why I really like sheet aluminum.
White paint is decent for lumen measurements. Not so great for PAR measurements. My 2 cents.