Rurumo
Well-Known Member
I was the same way, had to try it for myself. I can't wait to see the final weight for comparison purposes and to evaluate for quality. They look just as good as the CMH buds.
Need help adjusting to LED
- Thread starter Nutty sKunK
- Start date
CheGueVapo
Well-Known Member
the hps is an electric heater with a high efficiency... only little energy is lost as PAR light 
CheGueVapo
Well-Known Member
From HPS to White or RB-LED light theres a huge improvement in quality. The spectrum of the CMH looks pretty good to me. I have no experience with them, but i assume from the spectrums i find it should be really good. Maybe better than the White-LED. If you see an improvement, then not a big one. Hope its better, but all respects to the CMH spectrum. Nice!
Nutty sKunK
Well-Known Member
I can imagine dude. The new growth rate is phenomenal with these LEDs. Shoots and bud sites everywhere.
Not really a cost improvement for me just quality wise, or so I thought lol
Im going to have to re-design my room. Instead of exhausting out the room I’ll recycle the air in and out another door. It’s not a sealed room so shouldn’t need an intake too
Milky Weed
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I’m realizing how important temperature is now, how would y’all warm a 5x16 room in a basement?
The only issue I’m thinking of is the air intake comes in from the basement, I would rather not heat the whole basement but if I just throw a heater in the room I’m sure it will be vented outdoors quickly.
Should I just deal with it and run them cooler around 75? It’s a big basement. Running about 1400 watts of led in there but only using about 800 ish in veg.
The only issue I’m thinking of is the air intake comes in from the basement, I would rather not heat the whole basement but if I just throw a heater in the room I’m sure it will be vented outdoors quickly.
Should I just deal with it and run them cooler around 75? It’s a big basement. Running about 1400 watts of led in there but only using about 800 ish in veg.
Er3
Well-Known Member
When I started led was fairly new and everyone hated on them . I went with mh purple at first and cob had just come out so I quickly added 4 50w cree to my 3x3 and it rocked. Replaced the purple with a 150wqband u can't complain. Hard dense buds,long life and no replacing or switching expensive bulbs. Also I need to control my light bill. Good choice for me
Er3
Well-Known Member
I blocked my area off with plastic. Its easier to control a smaller environment and heat,humidity are half your battle.
CheGueVapo
Well-Known Member
Let us know what bangs better
Except the small green and orange peak, this is about where i want to go with my own DIY-quantum board. Adding up the missing wavelength 370, 385, 395, 405 and 430 to enhance the common white-LEDs plus redboost 660...
I think the quality in terms of secondary metabolites and cannabinoids comes from the UVA/deeplblue range... also from royalbluee. Thats why the HPS suck, they are just 80% 590nm yellow.... still they are great for growth because of the much excess heat that promotes the growth metabolism well. It was not exactly the problem of the heat causing only medium quality compared to newer LED, but because the spectrum of the HPS simply was weak in promoting the metabolites and resin, just the growth.
I think the CMH spectrum looks great.... little bit more deep-red... not that green orange peak.... and you are close to the sun!
Also I think with more IR and NIR radiation extra but having the good uva-blue spectrum intensified we can have the growth of the HPS plus the better quality! Find out the dose of IR and NIR to reach that is the goal for that achievement. I try using the excess heat of the LEDs doing that! Not much left lol! But for NIR we definetly would need the chips, as this kind of wavelength only comes from hotter objects radiated.... still colder just warm objects tlike a 40C LED cooler who radiates the heat of down to the plants as IR-C is a good heating source, driving ambient and leafsurface temperature higher. Not to forget that should aim for color temperatures lower than 3000k for better yield and same cannabinoids.... only just color-temperature alone can make a huge difference.
The sun can do it, so it's possible
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Milky Weed
Well-Known Member
Milky Weed
Well-Known Member
that’s exactly what I was thinking, one of those plug in radiator heaters. I’ll give that a try, I may have to turn down my intake fan because it’s moving about 400cfm atm and that will probably negate any heating I do.
On second thought, I wonder if I could screw in some of those red heat lamp bulbs into the 2 light sockets into the room… that would be ALOT of IR. Just couldn’t run them at lights out though.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
75 - 80 is a fine temp to grow pot at unless you are aiming to use CO2 then you want a sealed room to do it right.
My grow room takes up a 7x9' area of the 10x30' basement which is really a 7' high concrete bunker under my house that stays nice and cool even in the hot summer we just had. Never got over 67F down there and the air that goes into the grow room comes from that larger space thru filtered vents.
What you want is a temp/RH and speed controller on your exhaust fan so it only runs when it's told to so you can control the grow conditions within close parameters. I also got a baseboard line voltage thermostat and wired that into a simple light switch box with cords to control my electric heater to keep the grow room from getting too cold during lights out times. I have a 1500W heater with two 750W switches and just have one on and leave it's thermostat on high. My thermostat turns it on and off as needed to raise the temp a bit when it cools down.
During hot weather your exhaust may need to run all the time but the controller will keep it on if that's the case but shut it off when it's cool so your heater isn't running to keep it warm enough.
I'm looking to get a 600W or better LED to replace a 600W HPS and won't even have to change my settings to keep the room just as I want it.
My analog temp/rh controller and speed controller I made from a ceiling fan controller. Do not use a light dimmer to try and make one of those. Electronic versions can be had on Amazon etc for under $50. The thermostat for the heater is just like the speed controller but uses a 120/240V thermostat and not ones used for your home furnace that use 24V. About 20 - $30Can here.
The speed controller is plugged into the temp/rh unit then the fan is plugged into the black plug. I set the speed around half.
Milky Weed
Well-Known Member
Thanks for taking the time friend, I had never even thought of that. This is exactly what I need! I think inkbird had some controllers that may be right up my alley, I don’t think I have the know how to set up a system like that myself all DIY.75 - 80 is a fine temp to grow pot at unless you are aiming to use CO2 then you want a sealed room to do it right.
My grow room takes up a 7x9' area of the 10x30' basement which is really a 7' high concrete bunker under my house that stays nice and cool even in the hot summer we just had. Never got over 67F down there and the air that goes into the grow room comes from that larger space thru filtered vents.
What you want is a temp/RH and speed controller on your exhaust fan so it only runs when it's told to so you can control the grow conditions within close parameters. I also got a baseboard line voltage thermostat and wired that into a simple light switch box with cords to control my electric heater to keep the grow room from getting too cold during lights out times. I have a 1500W heater with two 750W switches and just have one on and leave it's thermostat on high. My thermostat turns it on and off as needed to raise the temp a bit when it cools down.
During hot weather your exhaust may need to run all the time but the controller will keep it on if that's the case but shut it off when it's cool so your heater isn't running to keep it warm enough.
I'm looking to get a 600W or better LED to replace a 600W HPS and won't even have to change my settings to keep the room just as I want it.
My analog temp/rh controller and speed controller I made from a ceiling fan controller. Do not use a light dimmer to try and make one of those. Electronic versions can be had on Amazon etc for under $50. The thermostat for the heater is just like the speed controller but uses a 120/240V thermostat and not ones used for your home furnace that use 24V. About 20 - $30Can here.
The speed controller is plugged into the temp/rh unit then the fan is plugged into the black plug. I set the speed around half.
View attachment 5001639
Rurumo
Well-Known Member
This is a different topic, but the inkbird mini hygrometers are very accurate, if you're ever in the market for a small hygrometer for a jar.
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
My flower room which was the only grow room before the tent, I have a exhaust fan that use to run all the time. My heat is a non vented 20k btu propane wall heater and in the winter I need constant exhaust. It's just a 4" bathroom exhaust but does the job nicely while also drawing copious amounts of CO2 uncontrollably into the grow room.
This summer I hooked it up the a temp controller. But will have to go back to always on hen the heat is on. So maybe it gets down to 65F ? I run the lights at night usually. So now humidity is my main problem. But not so much in the summer except for the flip flop when lights out but still doesn't get much above 70% except when outside it's 90% like today.
I got a wireless three station weather monitor this summer and keeping it in the grow room and tent is quite informative.
This summer I hooked it up the a temp controller. But will have to go back to always on hen the heat is on. So maybe it gets down to 65F ? I run the lights at night usually. So now humidity is my main problem. But not so much in the summer except for the flip flop when lights out but still doesn't get much above 70% except when outside it's 90% like today.
I got a wireless three station weather monitor this summer and keeping it in the grow room and tent is quite informative.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Look for a combination temp/RH controller. If you're wanting some sort of app control thru your phone I can't help with that but you want something that kicks your fan in when either the temp or RH exceed the settings you have them at. I don't think Inkbird has a combo one or if separate ones can be used in series to do the same job as a combo unit but I never look at that stuff so plead ignorance about that. Should be able to get a heat controller to run a small heater as well.
I've worked in almost any industry or trade you can imagine and have a shop full of tools so DIY everything I can as I have lots more time than money and excellent DIY skills. Anything electrical I build I do to code and in 20 years have never had a fire or even blown a breaker. Bought a book on house wiring and it's not rocket surgery.
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
They have a combo user friendly plug and play model.Look for a combination temp/RH controller. If you're wanting some sort of app control thru your phone I can't help with that but you want something that kicks your fan in when either the temp or RH exceed the settings you have them at. I don't think Inkbird has a combo one or if separate ones can be used in series to do the same job as a combo unit but I never look at that stuff so plead ignorance about that. Should be able to get a heat controller to run a small heater as well.
I've worked in almost any industry or trade you can imagine and have a shop full of tools so DIY everything I can as I have lots more time than money and excellent DIY skills. Anything electrical I build I do to code and in 20 years have never had a fire or even blown a breaker. Bought a book on house wiring and it's not rocket surgery.
Milky Weed
Well-Known Member
Yep that’s the one I was talking about. I might need 2 but one would get me somewhere.