Need some Organic Tea recipes for veg and flower!

TitanCannabisArchives

TitanCannabisArchives

Member
Hey everyone noob here. Looking to do a full organic grow and looking for recipes for compost teas for veg and another tea recipe specficly for flower. I have made a verison of subcool super soil with some veriations
6 cuft ffof/sunshine 50/50mix
1 33lb bag worm casting
2.5lb bone meal 3-15-0
2lb bat guano 9-3-1
2.5lb blood meal 12-0-0
1 1/2 cups osyter shell
1 1/2 cup kelp meal 1-0.1-2
1 1/2 cup alfalfa meal 2.5-0.5-2.5
3/8 cup epsom salt
1/2 cup dolomite lime
1 cup azomite 0-0-0.2
1 tbsp powered humic acid
1 cup mykos
I will have this hot soil layered on the bottom half of my pot and the top half will be all ffof
I was planning on using the recipe for Vitals tea but was looking to see if anyone has used it and liked it of if anyone has any better tea suggestions vital tea is
4 cups Baseline granular humic
4 cups Hummus
8 cups Worm castings
4 cups Organic Compost
1/2 cup Azamite
1/2-1 cup Liquid kelp
1 cup Mykos
1 cup Insect frass
Would this tea work all the way through the whole grow or is this tea specifc for veg? To my understanding Teas feed the soil which in turn feeds the plant and i have heard of people saying there are teas for different stages if im wrong please correct me. Thank you for teaching this young botanist apprentice
 
gotkush?

gotkush?

Well-Known Member
You could use that recipe the whole way thru. Rather than trying to isolate specific bacteria and fungi for different stages of the growth process I tend to aim for more of a "full-spectrum" with good balance of fungi and bacteria, from there you can experiment with stage specific amendments, meaning go easy on the N in flower and easy on the P in veg.
As for recipes, no brews are the same, it is all dependent on how I feel, a handful of this a handful of that, never are two brews the same, each one is a custom brew.
 
TitanCannabisArchives

TitanCannabisArchives

Member
gotkush? said:
You could use that recipe the whole way thru. Rather than trying to isolate specific bacteria and fungi for different stages of the growth process I tend to aim for more of a "full-spectrum" with good balance of fungi and bacteria, from there you can experiment with stage specific amendments, meaning go easy on the N in flower and easy on the P in veg.
As for recipes, no brews are the same, it is all dependent on how I feel, a handful of this a handful of that, never are two brews the same, each one is a custom brew.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the great advice! Is there a limit i should give to each plant like 1 gallon of tea per plant of a view cups? And should i dillute it with water before i give it?
 
gotkush?

gotkush?

Well-Known Member
I brew 4 gal at a time, so depending on how much I feel like giving each pot I will either dilute or not. But this is what works for me, others will swear by other methods, some will cite scientific reasons for their methods and teach you about the details for each calculated method. Rasta Roy has a good method already outlined above.
Cool thing about "organics" is that there are so many different sources of what can be used. I just use whats most readily available and if I can gather local sourced stuff for free, that's what I do. Have fun with it.
 
Rasta Roy

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
gotkush? said:
Cool thing about "organics" is that there are so many different sources of what can be used. I just use whats most readily available and if I can gather local sourced stuff for free, that's what I do. Have fun with it.
Click to expand...
That is 100% the way to approach organics.

Fuck buying OMRI certified bottles of fish fertilizer.

Do you eat? Start a worm bin, let your food scraps fertilize your garden.

Are there trees by you? Your neighbors? Rake up your leaves, steal your neighbor's bagged up leaves off the curb (it's not really stealing and you just made those suckers do all the work!), compost that, boom. Fertilizer.

Live near a horse or cow farm? Go ask if you can shovel up some shit and take it for your garden, they'll probably say help yourself. Go compost it or tarp it and leave it out in the sun. Fertilizer.

Know anybody with rabbits? Ask for their litter box contents when they clean them. Boom. Fertilizer.

Empty field by your house? Giant yard at Grandma's? Throw some comfrey seeds all over that bitch. Come back later and harvest. Can the choir say it with me now?

Fertilizer!



Sorry, lol. My weed is very good, makes me a little silly.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
you could even just bubble your soil mix for time, add some outdoor soil too, maybe a rabbit turd, some bird pooh too. even a handful of composted dirt bubbled will rock the bene world.
 
GrowingTheDream

GrowingTheDream

Member
The only time i use teas anymore when i trim my plants as a foliar spray. Other then that just top dress and water in.

But my tea is
1/4 cup of alfalfa, kelp, neem and protek bubbled over night and then i add aloe, coconut, and ful power in 2.5 gallons of water.

Before i use i add another 2.5 gallons of water. I use what i need to foliar feed and the rest goes into the soil.
 
R

Rentaldog

Well-Known Member
Sorry to sort of hijack, but I figure this might fit in to your question as well.

@Rasta Roy , How do you know how much of each amendment to add to your soil for a balanced NPK? Im a little up there right now, and im still very new to organics. Does each powder you add to the mix increase some sort of finite tally of each nutrient? Or does more powder just equal more food for your soil to slowly break down?

I guess Im curious about building a water only soil, or a soil that can pump out great plants on just a few tea feedings here and there. Having a hard time understanding how people come up with their mixes and measurements and amendments. Could you just dump 5 pounds of each of amendment into a pile and call it a day? It all wouldnt be released immediately right, because the microbes and environment have to break it down for it to be ready for the plant?

Sorry if any of this sounds silly, just a random question from a passerby.
 
Rasta Roy

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Rentaldog said:
Sorry to sort of hijack, but I figure this might fit in to your question as well.

@Rasta Roy , How do you know how much of each amendment to add to your soil for a balanced NPK? Im a little up there right now, and im still very new to organics. Does each powder you add to the mix increase some sort of finite tally of each nutrient? Or does more powder just equal more food for your soil to slowly break down?

I guess Im curious about building a water only soil, or a soil that can pump out great plants on just a few tea feedings here and there. Having a hard time understanding how people come up with their mixes and measurements and amendments. Could you just dump 5 pounds of each of amendment into a pile and call it a day? It all wouldnt be released immediately right, because the microbes and environment have to break it down for it to be ready for the plant?

Sorry if any of this sounds silly, just a random question from a passerby.
Click to expand...
When building a new soil and adding amendments, I will usually look at the recommended application, go a little under what is recommended. I do a soil test at the end of the grow season or session and then ill know if I needed to add more next round.

And no, you can not just throw whatever in a pile lol.

Too many heavy nitrogen inputs and you'll be starting a compost pile...which if that's your goal that's fine...but just not necessary if you know how to build your soil (you should start a compost pile to create compost to build your soil, but not turn your soil into one).

Aside from that, you just need to provide everything, the numbers don't matter as much as the release times do.

If the only nitrogen source in your soil is bat guano or blood meal, you're gonna run out of N early because they are both highly water soluble. On the other end, if your only N source is Feather meal (which has hardly any water soluble nitrogen), your plants won't have enough N early on.

This is the same reason Epsom salts shouldn't be mixed into your soil, too water soluble.

It is really hard to know exactly where your soil ratios are at without a soil test, but if you understand the properties and effects of your amendments on your soil then its pretty hard to fail.
 
Rasta Roy

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Rentaldog said:
Sorry to sort of hijack, but I figure this might fit in to your question as well.

@Rasta Roy , How do you know how much of each amendment to add to your soil for a balanced NPK? Im a little up there right now, and im still very new to organics. Does each powder you add to the mix increase some sort of finite tally of each nutrient? Or does more powder just equal more food for your soil to slowly break down?

I guess Im curious about building a water only soil, or a soil that can pump out great plants on just a few tea feedings here and there. Having a hard time understanding how people come up with their mixes and measurements and amendments. Could you just dump 5 pounds of each of amendment into a pile and call it a day? It all wouldnt be released immediately right, because the microbes and environment have to break it down for it to be ready for the plant?

Sorry if any of this sounds silly, just a random question from a passerby.
Click to expand...
Ill post a solid water only recipe for you in a sec!
 
R

Rentaldog

Well-Known Member
Rasta Roy said:
When building a new soil and adding amendments, I will usually look at the recommended application, go a little under what is recommended. I do a soil test at the end of the grow season or session and then ill know if I needed to add more next round.

And no, you can not just throw whatever in a pile lol.

Too many heavy nitrogen inputs and you'll be starting a compost pile...which if that's your goal that's fine...but just not necessary if you know how to build your soil (you should start a compost pile to create compost to build your soil, but not turn your soil into one).

Aside from that, you just need to provide everything, the numbers don't matter as much as the release times do.

If the only nitrogen source in your soil is bat guano or blood meal, you're gonna run out of N early because they are both highly water soluble. On the other end, if your only N source is Feather meal (which has hardly any water soluble nitrogen), your plants won't have enough N early on.

This is the same reason Epsom salts shouldn't be mixed into your soil, too water soluble.

It is really hard to know exactly where your soil ratios are at without a soil test, but if you understand the properties and effects of your amendments on your soil then its pretty hard to fail.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the recipe :)

So basically you just provide a good source of N, P, K, and all the other "minor" needs your plants require. Am I following that the more water soluble the amendment the faster its available to plants? So, if you mixed up something with guano you wouldnt have to let your soil sit for very long? Whereas if you mixed in a harder powder the microbes/soil would break them down over time?

I imagine you have to tea both of those mixes, unless you let your soil with the powder "cook" and prepare itself.
 
Rasta Roy

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Rentaldog said:
Thanks for the recipe :)

So basically you just provide a good source of N, P, K, and all the other "minor" needs your plants require. Am I following that the more water soluble the amendment the faster its available to plants? So, if you mixed up something with guano you wouldnt have to let your soil sit for very long? Whereas if you mixed in a harder powder the microbes/soil would break them down over time?

I imagine you have to tea both of those mixes, unless you let your soil with the powder "cook" and prepare itself.
Click to expand...
Yea, water soluble ones are ready right away, so if you have a need right now...they're great. But if you want your plants to be taken care of later you want the ones that break down over time, either through microbes (meals) or weathering (minerals).

You don't have to add a tea to the mixes...adding molasses to a watering would also boost the microbe population. Doing a tea just lets you do it and then add them.
 
hillbill

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Compost teas are just that, just compost and maybe some carbs. Compost though is a lot of different things. Leaf mold or forest litter, soil from my bog garden get bubbled.

I like a light Alfalfa tea with 1/2 tbs in a gallon of water and kelp also. I use molasses in my teas for micro food. Very light tea mix for feeding but produces way beyond the weak NPK. Every kind of plant from herbs to Elephant Ears I have likes it!

I feed some since I am in 7 liter containers. Smaller plants for ease of handling and variety of herb.

Indoor organics is best done in a lighthanded manner. Better a little light on direct nutrient input than heavy. Overwatering is worse than underwatering. Overwatering is one of the worst things you can do. Another is watering too much. Don't overwater!
 
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