New Experimental Advanced DIY Designs.

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Guod ,I think Lairds it's better than 3M's ,there ....

Compare them ....

Edit : Although that are some of 3M 's (Thermally Conductive Interface Silicone Pads) with conductivity of 1.0-4.9 W/m-k
(Pcb will need screws or rivets ...They're not adhesive ..." No added adhesive layer.
Pad is tacky and conformable///
")
....


But on adhesives 0.9 W/m.K is highest at 3M ....

While Laird's adhesive pad is 2.9 W/m.K



  • For 60x50 MCPCB
  • Operating température from -20°C to 155°C
  • Thermal resistance : 2.9W/mK/cm²
  • Double-sided tape
  • Easy assembly
  • LAIRD Technologies (USA) quality
 

guod

Well-Known Member
5 x Hyper Red: LH CP7P (4 x 644 nm -1 x 666 and Post #54

i think you misunderstood the Oslon LH CP7P

Wavelength at peak emission > 660nm
Dominant wavelength > 645nm
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
5 x Hyper Red: LH CP7P (4 x 644 nm -1 x 666 and Post #54

i think you misunderstood the Oslon LH CP7P

Wavelength at peak emission > 660nm
Dominant wavelength > 645nm
But Guod ...
I maybe wrong .....
Look at pdf of petunia lens ....
On the array one led has darker red color ....Maybe It's just a "misprint" or "miscoloration" ..

I know about the Wavelength at peak emission > 660nm
Dominant wavelength > 645nm of LH CP7P ..
spectral.jpg
......

Maybe they have different groups ...
( Are they any ? )

Maybe I'm just talking BS...My mistake then ...

Thanx for mentioning it ....
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Something like this attached to something like this. I've got 12VDC, 150mA wallwart to power the fan.
Yes you can use an adhesive pad there ...
As long as the heatsink does it's job pretty good ....
(Although I personally ,would not use an adhesive pad there ...
A silicone maybe -non adhesive- ....)

I have my concerns about the 100 x 1 watt die array ,there ....
Too much heat generated in so small area ...
Cooling has to be really good ....
Otherwise ....
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Reds :

LH CP7P

"Hyper Red "

lh cp7p spectrum.jpg


Power Groups :

2T : min=315mW / max= 355mW
3T :min= 355mW /max= 400mW
4T :min= 400mW /max= 450mW


Spectral bandwidth at 50% Irel max* : 25 nm ! ( quite " wide -band " of a monochromatic led ! )

* The distance of the two points (in nm ) that the spectral curve ,'meets' with 50 % rel. Power "line " at graph ....
We can freely assume that if peak is 660 nm ,then to the sides (25/2 =12.5 ) = +12.5 nm & (672.5 nm ) & - 12.5 nm ( 647.5 nm ),power is over 50 % of relative peak power ( 100% at 660 nm ) ...

LA CP7P

Wavelength at peak emission (typ.) λpeak : 624 nm

Dominant Wavelength:
(min.)λdom:609 nm
(typ.)λdom:617 nm
(max.)λdom:620 nm

Spectral bandwidth at 50% Irel max(typ.) Δλ : 18 nm

la cp7p spectrum.jpg..


Now-now ....
!!
The 624 nm red more "narrow-banded than the 660 nm one .....
Well...
At this case ....

LH CP7P is far more superior for plant growth than the LA CP7P ...


.....To have 'reds' or not to have ?
That's the question .....
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Oh ...


Thermal Impedance: 0.49°C/W

and a bit further down ...

Thermal Resistance: 2.9°C/W


Thermal resistance per cm2=

2.9°C/W

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/40720.pdf
Thermal impendance R has the units (m[SUP]2[/SUP]K)/W.
Absolute thermal resistance R[SUB]th[/SUB] in K/W is a specific property of a component. It is e.g., a characteristic of a heat sink.


http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtlXfV4xfEEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Thermal resistance per cm2=thermal impedance ?

WTF ?
!!!
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
...

I'm thinking something like this : 42 Watt on heatsink.jpg....(modules/led engines are in scale with heatsink surface )


4 of these panels for one square meter .....


each heatsink will have 3 led engines of 10 x WW 2700 K & 2 x NW 5000 K ..( 36 leds in total ) ...
A ebm-papst metal 120 mm fan (directly powered from mains 220 V AC ).
And a power supply of 220 AC 50Hz => 24 V DC , 2 A ( 3 x 0.6A per module = 1.8 A all three ..),to operate the on-board driver ....

A rugged alum frame like Guod's ......

And three swithes per panel , to switch on -off each module in every heatsink .....

So 4 heatsinks x 3 modules each =12 modules (without lenses =cheaper ? )
And can power on-off every individual module ,separately ....
( Instead of dimming .... )
( Now ,there's a red worm eating my brain cells ....Should the central module of each heatsink ,have some hyper-reds LH CP7P s'????
...
Arghhhh ! Shit ! .......)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Ok ...
I've to admit ,that branded high-quality leds ,have another kind of ....something ....

And being able to custom order .. almost everything ....

http://www.led-mounting-bases.com/cms.php?id_cms=16

( Directly from a european company ,for us europeans ....).....

With high quality brands ( CREE ,Nichia,Osram,Ledil lenses ,LedEngine ,Laird Tech/ies ,ect ..)..

That is AWESOME ! ....

Unique for the DIYErs ....


Ok .!

LEVEL UP !

( ....... 80's arcade games ....)



Edit :
Right now,I 've a strange urge to trash my cheapo-panels ,out of the window ...
Weird ....
 

guod

Well-Known Member
oslons from germoney

http://www.reichelt.de/OSRAM-Oslon-SSL/LCW-CQ7P/3//index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=5286&ARTICLE=111584&SHOW=1&START=0&OFFSET=16&&SID=13UP8m9H8AAAIAAAY9Ews54476c5f6d35ec2fcbe7df57e47e6456&LANGUAGE=EN

http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Osram/Osram-Oslon-SSL-c_206_207.html

220V fan on a full metal case, bad idea in a growroom and you need a second cable. airflow is also to much.(noise)
you have 24V on the moduls, there are some fans with this voltage or go my way with 2 fans in series.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Thanx for the links ....You 're making this thread really valuable !!!!

Now ...

220V fan on a full metal case, bad idea in a growroom and you need a second cable.
Yes..you're right .I need " Earth " grounding also in every metal part ....
airflow is also to much.(noise)

Also right about that one ...A friend has two ebm -papst (metal -220 V ) ...Great fans ...Really powerful..But kinda noisy ...


Now ...
Basically the design is 2 x " L " profile angles ...
( http://sketchup.engineeringtoolbox.com/equal-leg-angles-c_40.html )

A plate ...

And .... two small flat bars ....

( Roughly the whole design,in S.up ...not much precision there ...)

new project 1.jpgnew project 2.jpg

Correct ?



What about air-flow ?


What do you suggest at this case ?

new project blow 1.jpg......or .........new project blow 2.jpg

you have 24V on the moduls, there are some fans with this voltage or go my way with 2 fans in series.



That's even better ...One will work if other fails ....
Yes,I prefer your way ....
But not in series ..Parallel ( 2 x 24 Volts )


Edit:

This cheapo of a fan ,runs at 24 V and needs 0.30 A ..
P1235894.JPG..

I do not think 2 of much better quality ,will draw more than 1 A ..
So .Power supply has to go to 3 A ....

24 V , 3 A .....

Tricky .....
Mean well ...

And fans have to be of 80 mm ....not 120 mm..

80 mm ,24 V ,0.3-0.5 A .

With double ball bearings preferably ...
:-P
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
O k ....

You have remote phosphors from Intematix ,at many dimensions and K temperatures (with a sweeeeeeeeet 2700 K one.. ) ,from Digikey....

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/optoelectronics/optics-remote-phosphor/525582?k=intematix


Oslons SSL family has 3 different blue leds (with their groups ..)

http://catalog.osram-os.com/catalogue/catalogue.do;jsessionid=EA1F03673725D4097A50FE90D908BC10?favOid=00000002000339de06680023&act=showBookmark


They ... http://www.led-mounting-bases.com/ .. can custom -make (probably really small orders also... ) almost everything ....


One has to match a pcb and a RP with some blue leds ...

Only the " mixing chamber " remains a problem ....

But we're close enough ,by now ,to RP tech ....

PS: By using ,( The really modular ) ,Guod's "box" design ..
(Aluminium L angles ,flat bars and plate ..)
One can make easily ,a proper "fixture" for both mixin' chamber and RP screen ,also.....
(still using heatsink-'lower part',this time- as part of the frame ....
Like Ducati uses motor as part of the framework !
;-) )
Superb,indeed !
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
"New project blow 1," imo. Definitely push air into the heat sink.

Oh, and -fwiw- this CPU cooler has some interesting data attached to it. There's a graph with thermal resistance vs fan rpm vs noise level. With 100W LED at room temp everything should theoretically run at 45'C (@ 1600rpm, 26dBA), when most of these multichip LED's are rated at Ta=25'C, absolute maximum operating temp of +60. Anyway, I'll leave you guys to your work.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Yes...
Once you're into CPU coolers ,you'll come across with some powerful designs there (i.e thermaltake ...ect )

This one-linked- seems really good ..

Copper heatpipes to alum fins ....

Coupled with a nice fan ...

Way good for an array ....

Still .... 100 x 1 Watt ..

I kinda feel is way much ..
Also for the phosphor layer to handle ...
Dunno ....
Maybe ,I'm talkin' bull ,again....
But ...100 Watts in so small area ,are not ... an "easy-going " power ,at least with leds ....

....
Just my stupid thoughts about it ...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Anyway, I'll leave you guys to your work.

I thought ,you were part of it ,also.....
Your design is not of less importance,there ...
It seems really New Experimental Advanced DIY Design

...
Isn't that so ?

....

P.S. :
Ok...Since it is asian array ,and not a really expensive one ....
Invest in a good cooling system (heatsink+fan) ...
Then try the array ....

I guess you'll gain the much needed, first-person ,experience ,so
to judge better in a possible -more advanced future design - ....

DIY journey with leds ,is way long ....

Maybe ,you'll find out that ,a really good cooler can support ..

i.e. .... 75 Watts of leds ....

Then you invest in a better array ...


(and also more "spectral" balanced if you wish so ....)

..
You never loose ...

On the contrary ....

We all gain something from it ...

DIYers or not ....
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Anyway, I'll leave you guys to your work.

I thought ,you we're part of it .....
Your design is not of less importance,there ...
It seems really New Experimental Advanced DIY Design

...
Isn't that so ?

....

:hump:

Thanks stardust. It's "new," I don't know if it's "advanced," but I'm definitely psyched to start working on this stuff, that's for sure!
 
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