Outdoor grow need tips(grow space is surrounded by bushes )

hello im planning to make my second grow outdoors..

As the title says the grow space is surrounded by some bushes so the plants will be hidden as i grow in a country where cultivation is illegal.
What can i do to protect plants from pests and diseases? last time i had some insects and botrytis.. Should i cut some bushes to let much more air to flow to avoid botrytis?

Thanks in advance
new in the hobby

where are you? im in wales uk, its wet n windy, and plants rarely get to flower fully outside under the eliments. you might try auto's, there ready in 3 monthes and you can get several crops in b4 the wether comes and causes all the rot.
if you can get some big cat shit, zoos sometimes sell them, it keeps most vermin and 4 legged pests away,
genetics is your best friend, dont buy the latest bud of the month, durban poison is a goosd one, any plants recomended for northan growing. look through ther UK GROWE4RS THREAD for outdoor grows, there will be some hardy little bastared plant strains in there that will finish early enough to avoid the worst wether or can handle the bad wether.

BEST CANNABIS STRAINS TO GROW IN GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
Let’s take a look at the 10 best strains to grow outdoors in the United Kingdom.

AUTO DURBAN POISON


Auto Durban Poison is Dutch Passion’s autoflowering version of the original, a sativa hailing from South Africa. This girl doesn’t just exceed expectations indoors and in greenhouses, but outdoors too. Her very short growing cycle of 10–11 weeks makes her an excellent choice for those growing in less than optimal climates, like the UK. Her strong and uplifting effect, along with her sweet liquorice/anise flavour, makes her a great strain to enjoy during the rainy, dark days ahead.



VIEW AUTO DURBAN POISON


PURPLE QUEEN AUTOMATIC


Purple Queen Automatic is a lightning-quick autoflowering strain that's perfect for growing in the fickle UK climate. An effortless endeavour taking just 6–7 weeks to flower, and 8–9 weeks from seed to harvest, she delivers the goods with 100–150g/plant outdoors. She’s not a tall plant, but definitely a beautiful one, with orange pistils and, in about half the phenos, purple leaves and buds. Given her compact nature, she’s ideal for those pokey spaces if you don't want to show her off. With around 20% THC to her buds, she offers up tranquil but suitably powerful effects that go down a treat alongside pine, citrus, and fruity flavours.



VIEW AUTO PURPLE QUEEN AUTOMATIC

WATERMELON CANDY AUTOMATIC


Boasting huge sweet, fruity flavours and aromas, it has to be Watermelon Candy Automatic. This autoflowering beast is perfect for cultivating outdoors, flourishing no matter where you place her. She requires very little in the way of maintenance and delivers a fine yield if given the base level of care and attention. A compact plant, this works in her favour in restricted growing spaces. Taking 9–10 weeks from seed to harvest, this strain doesn't overstay her welcome in the grow-op. Rewarding the grower with a sizeable yield of potent buds, this sativa/indica hybrid is ideal for smoking, vaping, and creating edibles.

VIEW WATERMELON CANDY AUTOMATIC

SPEEDY CHILE


Royal Queen Seeds created Speedy Chile for those who prefer growing a fast photoperiod strain over an autoflowering strain. And fast this lady certainly is. After a flowering time of no longer than 6 weeks, she delivers up to 500g of top weed per plant. Powered by a THC level of 16%, she induces a relaxing effect complemented by an uplifting heady note. Flavours of earth, citrus, and pepper round out the experience.

VIEW SPEEDY CHILE

BLACK WIDOW


Black Widow by Positronics is the perfect choice for indica lovers in the UK. This indica-dominant hybrid grows very fast with a flowering time of 55–66 days. During this period, she can reach up to 2m in height, hinting at the large yields to come. When all is said and done, she will reward you with 300g/plant of very aromatic and super-resinous buds. Beware; with 19% THC, she is quite potent. Light one up, and you can enjoy an awesomely relaxing indica stone!



VIEW BLACK WIDOW



EARLY SKUNK


Early Skunk by Sensi Seeds, just like the original Skunk, is a true all-rounder that reliably grows everywhere, indoors and out. The original Skunk #1 is already renowned for her ease of growth and robust nature, but Sensi Seeds upped the ante by crossing this classic with the resilient Early Pearl. Out comes a turbocharged killer strain that excels in pretty much every environment. This indica-dominant hybrid is very resistant to mould, and requires only 55–65 days of bloom—perfect for the British climate! You can look forward to good yields, an uber-relaxing high, and dank flavour with this one.



VIEW EARLY SKUNK



STRESS KILLER AUTOMATIC


It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to guess what Stress Killer Automatic by Royal Queen Seeds is all about. This cross between the popular Juanita la Lagrimosa, Lemon Haze, and ruderalis exerts a very relaxing effect, despite only containing about 11% THC. Then again, she is very rich in CBD, which gives her good therapeutic potential. Her buds blend pungent notes of fresh lemon with spicy Haze, and are ready to harvest after only 7–8 weeks of flowering. When the time comes, you can rake in up to 160g/plant in optimal conditions.



VIEW STRESS KILLER AUTOMATIC



BLUE DREAM'MATIC


The breeders at FastBuds didn’t just create an autoflowering variant of the popular Blue Dream; they did one better, improving upon the original classic. The result is Blue Dream'matic, a 75% sativa-dominant strain that races to harvest in a short 9–11 weeks, with monster yields of up to 300g/plant. She has a wonderfully uplifting yet mellow effect, which makes her a good all-rounder smoke you can enjoy at any time. She starts you out with a happy, inspiring effect that gradually transitions into a deep stone. Good for sleeping troubles, stress relief, and chronic pain!



VIEW BLUE DREAM'MATIC



BLUEBERRY AUTOMATIC


Blueberry has long been a top fav among cannabis aficionados for her fruity-berry flavour and her relaxing effect that immediately tells the mind to chill out. Zamnesia took this famous strain and gave her the autoflowering treatment. Now she can deliver her award-winning buds in a blazingly fast 8–9 weeks from seed. Blueberry Automatic is just perfect if you want to harvest a cannabis legend before the inclement weather arrives!



VIEW BLUEBERRY AUTOMATIC



CREAM CARAMEL - F1 FAST VERSION


The popular Cream Caramel by Sweet Seeds pleases with very sweet buds and a soothing smoke. Being 90% indica, she offers a very relaxing physical stone that makes her a nighttime favourite. Sweet Seeds’ F1 fast version of this classic needs only 7 weeks to flower, allowing you to harvest early before September is over. A very good strain for indica lovers who want to grow sweet, sultry outdoor bud in the UK.



VIEW CREAM CARAMEL



TIPS FOR GROWING CANNABIS IN THE UK


When growing cannabis outdoors in the UK, the biggest threats are mould and bud rot. Follow these tips so your outdoor grow is successful:

• Germinate your cannabis seeds indoors, and allow them to develop into sturdy seedlings before you set them outside.
• Go with fast-flowering photoperiod strains and autoflowers you can harvest before the rainy weather in autumn. Check strain descriptions!
• Autoflowering sativas with an open and airy bud structure are less prone to mould.
• Ensure good drainage and don’t let your plants stand in water for an extended time. This can cause root rot.
• Grow outdoors in pots so you can move your plants to shelter in bad weather.

Happy growing!

just a few ideas

durban is a popular strain to grow outdoors here in the uk, i recomend it. im now growing in a polly tunnel and have just been given a 50 by7 100 foot area for a new one. im going to put polly tunnels inside a big tunnel, im thinking i can pull off a sativa grow that way.
can you grow at your house?

go go kid said:

where are you? im in wales uk, its wet n windy, and plants rarely get to flower fully outside under the eliments. you might try auto's, there ready in 3 monthes and you can get several crops in b4 the wether comes and causes all the rot.
if you can get some big cat shit, zoos sometimes sell them, it keeps most vermin and 4 legged pests away,
genetics is your best friend, dont buy the latest bud of the month, durban poison is a goosd one, any plants recomended for northan growing. look through ther UK GROWE4RS THREAD for outdoor grows, there will be some hardy little bastared plant strains in there that will finish early enough to avoid the worst wether or can handle the bad wether.

Click to expand...

Im in greece and in the beginning of July ive noticed botritys on the flowers.. i dont know if the air wasnt moving correct cause of the surrounding bushes or because i put some fresh cuts of olive trees to make the grow space more stealth and by rotting those cuts botritys start developing on my flowers

could well be too little air movement, i personaly dont like my plants near others, as its all too easy for the plants to transfer spores too your plants.
thats well early for bud rot to start, it usualy doesnt start untill later on in flowering.
do you know what strain it was? these flavour of the month or cup winning strains are generaly for growing indoors, where the encviropment can be cobntrolled so as to avoid and bud rot, and even that isnt garanteed.
but generaly there indoor plants.
i would try a durban poison auto strain, there great at resisting rot and bug attacks. and you will get some bud even in the worst season.
theres bound to be others comming online later who will give you some great ideas from experiance.
ive allways had the luxuary of growing on or in my own land, so ive been able to put pollythene up as a makeshift tent/cover to stop the rain getting into the buds.
see what others have to say as and when they come online as the day progresses. best of luck

go go kid said:

could well be too little air movement, i personaly dont like my plants near others, as its all too easy for the plants to transfer spores too your plants.
thats well early for bud rot to start, it usualy doesnt start untill later on in flowering.
do you know what strain it was? these flavour of the month or cup winning strains are generaly for growing indoors, where the encviropment can be cobntrolled so as to avoid and bud rot, and even that isnt garanteed.
but generaly there indoor plants.
i would try a durban poison auto strain, there great at resisting rot and bug attacks. and you will get some bud even in the worst season.
theres bound to be others comming online later who will give you some great ideas from experiance.
ive allways had the luxuary of growing on or in my own land, so ive been able to put pollythene up as a makeshift tent/cover to stop the rain getting into the buds.
see what others have to say as and when they come online as the day progresses. best of luck

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the strain was royal gorilla auto from rqs and one banana punch auto from a local seedbanker (dont know the breeder). i was thinking to make a small greenhouse so they can be more protected but i dont know is gonna happen when high temperature starts.. ill post later or tomorrow some pics from the place hope that someone gonna give me some good tip..

Bobkatar said:

the strain was royal gorilla auto from rqs and one banana punch auto from a local seedbanker (dont know the breeder). i was thinking to make a small greenhouse so they can be more protected but i dont know is gonna happen when high temperature starts.. ill post later or tomorrow some pics from the place hope that someone gonna give me some good tip..

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You should grow early autos and photos where you are.This will allow some early and late flowers to avoid any wet seasons.Also botrytis is commonly caused by worms or low air flow.Search BT on here.Its a biological control for worms.

buckaclark said:

You should grow early autos and photos where you are.This will allow some early and late flowers to avoid any wet seasons.Also botrytis is commonly caused by worms or low air flow.Search BT on here.Its a biological control for worms.

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I see.. lets say i choose early autos .
Im planning to plant them early/mid april if the weather allow it cause its kinda late this year. It will not be done till end of July. Last time i notice early july i had botritys..

buckaclark said:

You should grow early autos and photos where you are.This will allow some early and late flowers to avoid any wet seasons.Also botrytis is commonly caused by worms or low air flow.Search BT on here.Its a biological control for worms.

Click to expand...

also botrytis couldn't be transferred from other dead plants near in the area with air ? like the cuts from olive trees i had for more protection from other eyes ?

Bobkatar said:

also botrytis couldn't be transferred from other dead plants near in the area with air ? like the cuts from olive trees i had for more protection from other eyes ?

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Botrytis would come from moisture or contamination such as dead material or caterpillar poop.I believe it's more that than being transferred from olive plants.Powdery mildew is and can be easily transferred to cannabis from nearby plants.If your fall is dryer you would be better with photo period plants that ripen later .GL

Better airflow in the canopy helps. If you have a high humidity environment mold/rot is more likely to happen, especially on more dense flowers /plant structures. Like if you grow pure indica from afghanistan in the thailand jungle, you're going to end up with moldy buds.

Caterpillars/bud worms leave poop in the buds that also causes mold/rot. Even if airflow/humidity is not problematic, budworms and other insect damage that leaves dead plant tissue can make places for mold/rot to set in. I grow outdoor and apply preventative sprays weekly from early veg all the way until bud formation (2nd or 3rd week of flower when stretching stops).

Not sure what you have access to over there. For preventative sprays, I mix the following ingredients with water at 1/2 strength and apply weekly.....

Azamax - azadirachtin product (may use neem oil) Acts as antifeedant. Helps control any bugs that eat/feed on the plant.

Monterey BT - Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki. (Controls caterpillars/bud worms)

Southern AG Garden Friendly Fungicide - Bacillus amyloliquefaciens strain D747 (controls mold/mildew and other fungus)

Monterey Garden Insect Spray - Spinosad (I don't use this every time. It kills all buds good and bad. If I see evidence of spider mites or thrips on the plant, I include this in the mix.)

I also add 1/4 strength nutrients to the mix for foliar feeding.

Mix all together in water at 1/2 strength. I put 1tsp of dawn concentrated dish soap in 4 gallons of mix as an emulsifier. If you use neem oil, you might need to put a little extra soap to emulsify better. I mix it in a bucket with a mixer attachment on a high speed drill. I apply with an electric sprayer, but you can use a pump sprayer. Thoroughly cover all parts of plant and soil surface surrounding the plant.

ONLY APPLY SPRAYS AFTER SUNSET! If sunlight gets in the plant when wet with the spray, it will burn the crap out of it. I discovered this the hard way.

Where I am, outdoor gardening is a challenge. There are lots of bug pests and the weather rarely cooperates. My plants seem to do well with the above regimen.

Bobkatar said:

the strain was royal gorilla auto from rqs and one banana punch auto from a local seedbanker (dont know the breeder). i was thinking to make a small greenhouse so they can be more protected but i dont know is gonna happen when high temperature starts.. ill post later or tomorrow some pics from the place hope that someone gonna give me some good tip..

Click to expand...

just make a covour of pollythene sheeting attached to several poles poked into the ground, this way, heat wont build up, temps wont be an issue, it keeps the rain off, so botriytus wont be a major problem, as plenty of ventalation around the sides.
thats how i made my first outdoor grow tent, well cover, worked a treat and i got all the bits from skips, just asked the home owner if it was ok to take from the skip outside there home. you can pick up copper piping/cable, aluminium/steel/iron/wopod, pollytheen sheeting/bags. all manor of stuff, that soon builds up into saleable lots for the recycling place, so you can start to save up for a nice pollytunnel or something like that to grow in.

Tracker said:

Better airflow in the canopy helps. If you have a high humidity environment mold/rot is more likely to happen, especially on more dense flowers /plant structures. Like if you grow pure indica from afghanistan in the thailand jungle, you're going to end up with moldy buds.

Caterpillars/bud worms leave poop in the buds that also causes mold/rot. Even if airflow/humidity is not problematic, budworms and other insect damage that leaves dead plant tissue can make places for mold/rot to set in. I grow outdoor and apply preventative sprays weekly from early veg all the way until bud formation (2nd or 3rd week of flower when stretching stops).

Not sure what you have access to over there. For preventative sprays, I mix the following ingredients with water at 1/2 strength and apply weekly.....

Azamax - azadirachtin product (may use neem oil) Acts as antifeedant. Helps control any bugs that eat/feed on the plant.

Monterey BT - Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki. (Controls caterpillars/bud worms)

Southern AG Garden Friendly Fungicide - Bacillus amyloliquefaciens strain D747 (controls mold/mildew and other fungus)

Monterey Garden Insect Spray - Spinosad (I don't use this every time. It kills all buds good and bad. If I see evidence of spider mites or thrips on the plant, I include this in the mix.)

I also add 1/4 strength nutrients to the mix for foliar feeding.

Mix all together in water at 1/2 strength. I put 1tsp of dawn concentrated dish soap in 4 gallons of mix as an emulsifier. If you use neem oil, you might need to put a little extra soap to emulsify better. I mix it in a bucket with a mixer attachment on a high speed drill. I apply with an electric sprayer, but you can use a pump sprayer. Thoroughly cover all parts of plant and soil surface surrounding the plant.

ONLY APPLY SPRAYS AFTER SUNSET! If sunlight gets in the plant when wet with the spray, it will burn the crap out of it. I discovered this the hard way.

Where I am, outdoor gardening is a challenge. There are lots of bug pests and the weather rarely cooperates. My plants seem to do well with the above regimen.

Click to expand...

I have access on these:
1) Agrobacterias- Amanitha (EX OIDIO KILLER)
(Aqueous concentration of amino acids from enzymatic hydrolysis of vegetable proteins. its special combination gives the plant a powerful recovery effect from stress and physiological diseases produced by fungi in plant leaves, especially those produced by Oidium.
ADVANTAGES OF APPLICATION
•Prevent the formation and proliferation of powdery mildew in the treated plants
•Producing active metabolics that stimulate plant growth and production.
•Reduce the stress caused by environmental adversities and harmful organisms.
•Stimulating the growth and vigor of the treated plants.
•Reinforce the plant's defenses.
•Successfully diminish the action of pathogenic organisms.
•Increase the proliferation of useful microbial life around the plant.
Repeat the application after 10 days to improve the result. Suitable for ecological agriculture.
100% natural )

2)Agrobacterias- Spider Plant (Ex Spider Killer)
(SPIDERPLANT aqueous formula rich in free amino acids, to be powdered on the leaves. The product stimulates the general metabolism of the plant during the vegetative phase, strengthening the plant and helping its recovery after external attacks such as mites and insect wounds. its application to the leaves renders the aerial tissue of the plant unfavorable to these wounds. )

3)Kanaplant - defense 2 -Mites
(
Natural solution for the defense of plants from mites or red spider mites.
Based on thyme extract and mole soap flavored with orange cinnamon
Thyme extract (Thimus vulgaris) 0.5% v / v and soft soap 0.5% v / v.

Thyme (Thimus vulgaris) and soft soap flavored with orange and cinnamon. Applied on plants, thanks to its composition rich in flavonoids, phenols and potassium, it helps them in their natural defense to protect themselves in the presence of mites. Thyme enters the lymphatic flow of the plant, where it creates an enzymatic stimulation of a protective nature with the production of natural defense substances, while soft soap penetrates through the cuticle (external part of the insect), causing it to rupture. The flavoring with cinnamon and orange also performs a repellent action, making them prefer other plants for their nutrition.
)

4) Diatomaceous earth

5) BACTECIN (Thuringia Bacillus)
(Organic insecticide for catrpillars )

6) Neem oil

I dont know if i need them all but they sounds good to me..

I’m an outdoor grower and like the OP I also use other plants growing around my spot to help conceal that I’m growing cannabis.

Let me start by saying that sharing your grow spot with other plants is detrimental to your cannabis plants. Crowding with other plants creates air flow problems, but worse that that it allows insects a pathway from those cover plants and your cannabis. In spite of these drawbacks I still use cover plants all around my grow.

When the legal status changes where I live I’ll totally open up my grow spot and devote it solely for cannabis.

Chief_Broom said:

I’m an outdoor grower and like the OP I also use other plants growing around my spot to help conceal that I’m growing cannabis.

Let me start by saying that sharing your grow spot with other plants is detrimental to your cannabis plants. Crowding with other plants creates air flow problems, but worse that that it allows insects a pathway from those cover plants and your cannabis. In spite of these drawbacks I still use cover plants all around my grow.

When the legal status changes where I live I’ll totally open up my grow spot and devote it solely for cannabis.

Click to expand...

What if i make a construction with window net ?

Bobkatar said:

What if i make a construction with window net ?

Click to expand...

That would help keep some larger bugs (moths that make budworms, grasshoppers, leaf hoppers) to a minimum, but it wont help if humidity is a problem. I would still apply sprays for bugs and fungus. Mites can still work their way in there. Mildew/mold can still get in there.

In Greece you could have ideal conditions, I was thinking about buying land in greece only because of growing. Search for space with low humidity, avoid river shores, pond, deep valleys, etc. On the other hand, you have to watter plants during summer. April seems to soon to me, but i´m in CZ, I would plant pre-grown seedlings out in begining of may in Greece. Growing spot is the most important, when choosen properly, It will sort most of your problems. Mold in july is a strain thing, not normal even in humid conditions. You could try 3-4 spots and then decide which is the best for next season. Count with about 2/3 losses because of animals, molds, rippers or other idiots.

I used to grow guerila for about ten years, then I bought my land and growing there, but still illegal here, I don´t care much...

Pardon my English, hope is unerdstandable, I´m drunk again, It was such a great day today.

Tracker said:

That would help keep some larger bugs (moths that make budworms, grasshoppers, leaf hoppers) to a minimum, but it wont help if humidity is a problem. I would still apply sprays for bugs and fungus. Mites can still work their way in there. Mildew/mold can still get in there.

Click to expand...

i don't remember exactly if July had too much humidity.. i remember the roots when i chopped the one with botrytis it was a little darker then the others two.. But i dont know if you fucked up the roots if you gonna have botrytis or something else.. Also is kind of difficult in me area to find other location because all the villagers of the south area in my island are in the fields for other type of grows..