Paulistinha supersoil

This is my first attempt to build my own supersoil recipe based on the ferts and minerals I have close to me (BRAZIL). Please share your thoughts as I explain my decisions:

50 Liters of Paulistinha supersoil

Requirements:

• Physical properties
  A good soild needs to have aeration and moisture retention (50%/50%). The sustaible approach is to use byproducts like buffered coco coir and carbonized rice husks, but maybe peanut husks could work too. Focus on using byproducts of companies that exist around you so you can save money and make sure soil is loose but can hold water for ate least 2 days. Amend it as you wish later on.
• Chemical properties
  The end goal is to reach PH of 6.0 - 6.5 and initial supersoil runoff of 600 PPM maximum. I'm still learning how to measure these correctly.

Ingredients for BASE SOIL:
40% buffered coco coir ( Calcium Nitrate + Epson Salt ) (20 Liters)
40% carbonized rice husks (20 Liters)

Mix these 2 inert ingredients and save 1 liter or 2 for seedling stage. As result you will have 38 Liters of inert subtrate to work with.

Seedling soil mixture should be able to endure rainy days or be dry for 2 days. I water seedlings daily around midnight.


Final supersoil:

Now you'll add ammendments to your 38 Liters of inert substrate.
20% or around 10 to12 Liters of your final soil will contain ammendments. (this will give you a total of 48-50 Liters of supersoil, enough for 2 big plants.)


Step 1:
Add 5 - 7 Liters of worm castings OR well rotten and composted chicken manure

Step 2:
Add 3 - 5 Liters with the following ingredients:
Bokashi (1 Liter)
Biochar (1 Liter)

Organic fertilizers (1 Liter) - a mixture of:
Bone meal (33% Calcium and 15% P)
Blood Meal (N e Iron)
Seashell (Calcium)
Castor Meal - Ricinus (N, 5%)

Step 3:
The remaining ingredients are 'salty' and need to be used with precaution:

Rocks:
Micaxisto (2 tablespoons)
(siO2) – 30%
(P2O5) – 1,3%
(K2O) – 3,9%
(Ca) – 5,3%
(Fe) – 5,43%
(S) – 1,5%
(B) – 0,10%
(Cu) – 0,01%
(Mg) – 3,0%
(Zn) – 0,03%
(Co) – 8,2 mg/kg
(Mo) – 0,75 mg/kg


Gypsum (calcium sulfate) - 1 Tablespoon
Dolomite Lime - 12% (MgO) and CaO, 25%. 1 Tablespoon

Yoorin (local rock phosfate) - 2 Tablespoons:
P2O5 - 16%, Ca - 16%, Mg - 6,5%, S - 6%, B - 0,10%, Cu - 0,05%, Mn - 0,30%, Si - 9%, Zn - 0,55%

Salts:
Epson salt - 1 teaspoon:
9% (Mg); 12% (S)



Teas:

With the teas I hope to give nutes to plants as they progress. However it is my desire not to use teas over 500 PPM. It is also my wish not to feed plants every day with teas, most of the days I'll water with dechlorinated tap water.


Alfafa tea
Comfrey tea


Calda viçosa - Bordeaux mixture with added nutrients, you can check the info here:
K - 9,0%.
S - 9,0%.
Mg - 1,0%.
B - 3,5%.
Z - 3,0%.
Cu - 9,0%.

Triple superphosphate
41% P e 11% Ca

Chilean Saltpeter
15,0% - N, 14,0% - K


***

I do believe I am covering all nutrients needed and I will add some P and K as plants gets late into flowering stages. Again, please share your opinions as I am a novice trying to save some money ;D

cheers

I forgot to mention I water my seedlings with a product called Aminopeixe raízes (literally Aminofish roots)
1% N, 1%P, 1%K, 1%Ca, 1% aminoacids, 8% Organic Carbon

Also, please mix all ingredients thoroughly

Ok two more things:

Using mycorhiza is baloney
Imperial units can lick my ass

Myco isn't baloney - it is an important part of making soil bio-available to host plant.

I would think that “ soil” concoction would need time to become true base soil ( cook ) - so no compost?

Plus the overkill with gypsum / seashell / lime.

Seems more of chemical dump than a usable mix. Also coco coir “ aids “ in water retention- probably should add an aeration element such as perlite.

MY 2¢ - find a complete local soil then do a simple amendment ( like kelp ) and keep things simpler.

Budzbuddha said:

I would think that “ soil” concoction would need time to become true base soil ( cook ) - so no compost?

Plus the overkill with gypsum / seashell / lime.

Seems more of chemical dump than a usable mix. Also coco coir “ aids “ in water retention- probably should add an aeration element such as perlite.

MY 2¢ - find a complete local soil then do a simple amendment ( like kelp ) and keep things simpler.

Click to expand...

So in my head I've got the microorganisms inside bokashi and the food in biochar. Compost could also work.
For aeration I am focusing on rice husks which are said to provide aeration like perlite. The bonsai guy close to me says he has wonderful results with it.

And you are right about the chemical dump, I feed the pots with 400PPM water and the runoff comes out with 1100-1300 I'll remove epson salt and replace tablespoons with teaspoons for all measures. Thanks for the tips

Ok, update to this recipe.

Diagnosis:
For two/three days I had runoff above 1000 PPM which is far from acceptable for a soil that is supposed to be enriched over time.
I also found soil to have high pH -> 7.6 which also sucks. I am slowly decreasing pH with this method:

Fix
How to decrease soil salinity and high pH at the same time:

In the mornings, I flush 2 plants in clay pots that use this soil recipe. I measure runnoff every morning and flushed them 2 in the initial 3/4 days.
After 9 PM, I always feed them with Aminopeixe (1% N, 1%P, 1%K, 1%Ca, 1% aminoacids, 8% Organic Carbon).

Result:
Runoff has decreased to 400 PPM and pH is close to 7, which is acceptable. I do believe pH will still lower a bit depending on what I feed them from now on.

Next steps:
Decrease amount of rocks that contain Calcium and raise the pH. That results is less rock phosfate and dolomite lime.
Ideally the soil that receives a 3 week old seedling needs to have PPM runoff less than 600, and pH should be close to 6-6.5.
If I ever need some Calcium later on I can always use Calcium Nitrate.