Phosphorus or Potassium during flower???

1gfunk1

Active Member
You don't need bloom boosters if you feed properly. The problem today is the cannabis specific nutrient market and the manufacturers purposely leaving things out so they can sell you another bottle of something. CalMag, PK Boosters, etc... I run calcium nitrate and a micronutrient blend during veg. When I switch to flower I use the same and just add some MKP. It's basically the same thing as any three part system except there is never any need for any additional additives because everything is already present in adequate amounts. I'm not trying to grow crispy leaved plants that half the people out there think look good. I'm growing nice healthy plants start to finish without a dozen bottles of stuff and getting yields as good as those that do. Plant nutrition isn't hard. Farmers have been feeding the planet for centuries without the need for fancy nutes and cool named additives. Cannabis isn't special with regards to feeding it. But slick marketing has many people believing they need a bunch of stuff to grow weed. You don't.
Still doin this or switched things up ? Hydro ?
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Still doin this or switched things up ? Hydro ?
Yes. I'm still using the same stuff I've been using for years. Hydro flood and drain, DWC, coco, and soil. Of course with soil I don't feed every watering. I'm currently mixing up a batch of nutrients to feed my vegetable starts using the same stuff I use to feed cannabis. Plants use the same nutrients. You can mix them in different proportions but in the end the same nutrients can be used for almost all plants. I just choose to buy stuff as dry chemical salts and mix them with water myself rather than paying the exorbitant costs charged by all the fancy label and cool sounding name companies.
 

1gfunk1

Active Member
Yes. I'm still using the same stuff I've been using for years. Hydro flood and drain, DWC, coco, and soil. Of course with soil I don't feed every watering. I'm currently mixing up a batch of nutrients to feed my vegetable starts using the same stuff I use to feed cannabis. Plants use the same nutrients. You can mix them in different proportions but in the end the same nutrients can be used for almost all plants. I just choose to buy stuff as dry chemical salts and mix them with water myself rather than paying the exorbitant costs charged by all the fancy label and cool sounding name companies.
Yeah that's what am atfwr doing myself but get bit confused with it all people saying different npk ratios different ppm elements eg..N 100ppm..P65ppm..K170ppm ..ca.100..Mg..75

What are you ruing mind on you now ? Npk & element ppms ?

Have you used lie the 3-1-5 flower or all way though ? 1-3-2 ratios 1-1-3
 
I did a side-by-side to test additional amounts of potassium (by adding potassium sulfate) to see if it was beneficial over what I was currently running and it led to sturdier plants - no difference in yield though. Try adding some all the way though the plants life cycle, not just in flower, I think you'll like the results. I get fewer snapped branches in flower now.



I guess that happens if the bottles were ever exposed to cold weather (like under 40F). I've seen it happen to other foods from other brands too. DG's bloom is so concentrated that maybe it's more common with that bottle? Before I buy one from the store I give them a shake. Even if I run into chunks, I've never seen plant issues because of it, just a less potent mix out of the bottle.
Did you mean potassium silicate? If not, how much potassium sulfate do you add through different stages? Thanks in advance!
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
The below is elemental ppm (not the same as the ppm on a meter). I guess that is where a lot of confusion comes in for people, as it did for me. They are two completely different values and highlights the absolute bs contradictory or outright wrong info around growing mj.

COCO (Half manually fed, half blumats)

Elemental ppm in veg:

N - 150
P - 38
K - 160

C - 95
M - 60
S - 65

Elemental ppm during stretch, to the end of week 3:

N - 150
P - 60 (bumped up with mpk)
K - 189 (mpk)

C - 95
M - 60
S - 65

Elemental ppm from week 4 to end of week 6:

N - 95 (half the amount of N from Cnitrate since stretch is done)
P - 84 (further increase of mpk as the established bud sites begin to fill out)
K - 216 (mpk)

C - 40 (reduced with cal nitrate, although tap water holds some C too, so ppm will be slightly higher than shown here).
M - 60
S - 65

Elemental ppm from week 7 to end of week 8:

N - 95
P - 60 (dropped to it's previous level)
K - 189 (dropped to it's previous level)

C - 40
M - 60
S - 65

For final week 9 the above ppm of all is cut in half

N - 50
P - 30
K - 95
C - 20
M - 30
S - 32

No flushing is done, since the above final week ppm and previous ppm levels are on the low side, any slight nutrient build ups from previous weeks will sustain (in theory) for the final week. 20% run off is maintained during the last week. Prior to that, with such low over all ppm at any given point, they can go with no run off for more than a few feeding's.

Not saying all of the above ratios is 100% correct, but just an idea of ball park elemental ppm changes from veg and across the 4 flowering phases.


On another note, anybody with more experience who can recommend ratio changes please do so. I always got the feeling K was too high during early/mid with the above, although it's still within the boundaries from everything I've read. It would require a base change to adjust, so been putting that off.
 
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Im a new grower myself and I've gone pretty much all natural so far... using things I've learned throughout the web and combining them based on My own knowledge...

I started with a good NPK based mix with premixed perlite, then added to the top of it some used coffee grounds for more nitrogen Later (it takes awhile to break down naturally so I started it early so the release was consistent and equal) i also put a banana peel or 2 on the bottom of the soil layer for a potassium boost later on as well. Once flowering started I added some burnt wood ashes to the top level for (P) ND just kept watering and let nature do the rest... i just read my plant and went from there afterwards adding little bits of those things later. Idk how it will end but so far my results have been very nice for basically just watering them and no powdered or chemical enhancements. ..im hoping it preserves a good natural flavor.

I'm in like my 5th or 6th week of flower now and my buds are huge already and still pushing out little white hairs daily. Im. Going
For quality over quantity too though as my crop is just for me and the wifey... and the grows are my sort of therapy lol. I find d growing very relaxing and calming... super therapeutic!! Anyways


I know people will probably Reem me for my tactics, but for a first time grow in my backyard with no special tools( I got a bucket, the sun, and a garden hose lol) I find it very easy and cheap. Plus if my logic is right, there is a nice reserve of nutes if I ever lose track of them. (And it's basically from leftover stuff I had bought for the family anyways!)

Not to shabby for my first trial and error grow lol
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
No matter what you're growing in you still want P and K levels to be even or K slightly higher in the last 3 weeks,prior to that P levels should be higher than K but Ca is the most important nutrient for early flower
Exactly what I was gonna say apart from the Ca bit which I’ve just noticed switching to LED.

Extra P when buds forming then higher K for flavour, density.
 

KhanTheOG

Active Member
Blue dream in 70% coco , 30% miracle gro potting mix 5 gallon bucket. Protekt once a week. Half maxibloom half maxigro. No boosters added on this plant. But some other plants this year did benefit from P or K boosting
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I'll start off what I know.

For coco

30ppm P seems to be the minimum for veg. I don't know if going any higher in veg is beneficial. In flower some suggest building up to peak P values by week 4. The peak value as far as I can tell is no more than 90ppm P. Then begin ramping down slowly, maybe back to 30ppm during the stage people would call ''flushing''.

K doesn't seem to get much attention in veg, I've only seen limited info on it so call it 100-200ppm K. For flower, from week 6 the K doesn't seem to change much from this, but it would seem leaning toward 200ppm would be better if you were only running 100~ in veg/early flower. Perhaps run slightly more K during end of veg/early/mid flower to begin with, rather than jumping up the K by double.

If you don't understand the ppm values and so forth don't worry, just tell us what nutrients you are using and somebody will be able to convert or give an idea of what/how much you need if you are thinking of changing something.

As an easy answer, P will triple from it's minimum requirement for the peak of flower. K ''could'' double depending on what you were using and how high you decide to go with it.

In relation to each other, K spends a lot of time during veg/flower being at-least double the amount of P.
hundreds of trash talks and finally i met you, my master. thank you^^
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
For chemicals I use a 4-20-39
15.5-0-0 Calcium Nitrate
Epsom Salts
Going by tissue analysis weed likes a 1-1-2 ratio all through its life.

In weeks 2.5-6 in an 8 weeks flowering strain, you can increae the P-K with Monopotassium Phosphate. 0-52-34

When first starting in seedling use a small amount, 10%, and feed every watering. Each week gradually up the fertilizer PPM. I usually go to about 25%-40% of recommended max dosage, and feed each watering.
The last 2 weeks ut the feed in half. Dont flush. Flushing is a myth.
 
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RonnieB2

Well-Known Member
I'm a firm believer in boosters. I have a root booster which is 1/4 tsp silica, 1/8 Kelp and 1/4 of Humic acid...I use early bloom, mid, during and late bloom boosters as well...early booster is 1/8 phosphorus 1/16 potassium, 1/4 OmniA...My booster NPK values are extremely high 20-61-50 so unless you are using the exact nutrients as someone else you'll need to figure out whats best for you...
 

RonnieB2

Well-Known Member
PS> Different plants will respond differently to different boosters but unless you have your plants dialed in, meaning max EC/PPM, you won't know if a booster works or not. I have some plants that eat 2600 Plus PPM and some that show stress at 1500ppm. I increase my PPM my roughly 200 until I see mild stress then back off and I know I am dialed in on that plant. Meaning its eating the max so a booster really helps, but if you have a plant that needs 2600 and you're feeding it 1200 you will not see much difference if any with a booster
 

Stoner 420

Active Member
I check my Ppms after and before every feeding/res top up. Nute strength was no different to any other feeding. Only the Ratio of NPK, ca, mag etc adding the veg nutes.
I had a passionfruit vine that would produce a lot of flowers, but the flowers would never fruit.
I went into the local garden shop and the lady told me they need more pk in flower/fruiting. And she gave me a bottle of liquid potash.
And all of a sudden the flowers stopped dropping off and the plant started producing big plump passionfruit!!
Pk boosters DO help.
And sorry homebrewer but the higher ratio of nitrogen does not help during flower.
Any experienced grower knows that the nitrogen ratio in flower should be backed off as opposed to veg.
Suggesting to a new grower to use veg nutes all the way from start to finish blows my mind tbh.
Exactly what I was thinking. Not you must have had 19 years of larfy bud
 
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