Pineapple Express G13 Lab's Seed to Harvest

GoLdD

GoLdD

Well-Known Member
Hi scotty, Long time fan and follower here, starting with your g13 P.E seed to harvest thread. I had a question and hoped that you would be kind enough to respond. I have always had a problem getting my scrog even, it mostly looks like an elongated letter U, with the larger colas on the outside and kind of cramped with the center being smaller colas and less dense. I was re-reading your P.E thread and was amazed at how uniform your scrog was, if you have any helpful tips or guidance I would me be greatly appreciative. My set up is as follows: 20 inch deep x 36 inch wide x 6 foot tall grow cab with a 400 watt MH/HPS fan cooled hood, plant grow in a single power grower ECO (just a bigger version of the waterfarm), and I use 2 inch chicken wire for my scrog screen. I feel the problem may be the shape of my plants, they are always Christmas tree like by the time they hit the screen and it seems like the side branches never quite catch up, I've had 7 or 8 grows now and it happens everytime. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks GoLdD :leaf:
 
M

Meast21

Well-Known Member
SCOTTYBALLS said:
There are a few things you should do to get it to perform at its peak... You will notice there are 2 buckets the top brown bucket has a few holes in the bottom.. Fix that by drilling as many 1/4" holes in the bottom as posible.. Keep in mind it dose need to be strong enough to support the hydroton and plant just dont get to carried away.. this will allow the roots to grow down in the bottom bucket... also a larger air pump works better then the one that comes with it for more circulation..

However if you want 15oz your going to need a serious enclosure.. I grow in a pretty small cab that is completly coverd in mylar.. even the top and bottom of the cab is coverd in mylar... I run a single 400w HPS normally.. this time im trying out a 400w Ceramic metal hylide.. now that would be considerd by most way overkill in a small cab but not to me.. the trick is keeping the temps down low enough to run a 400 in a small cab.. I do this with a 485 CFM dayton blower that pulls cool air in threw the bottom and exits out the top... also to keep the plants low enough I have a SCROG screen wich I use to tuck and weave the branches under till the whole screen is filled this lets all the branches get just as much light as the others... I pretty much end up with about 20-25 main colas instead of just 1.. And my #1 rule is to not use any additives like Kabloom other additives IMO they are all gimicks.. I use 1 fertilizer and that is GH Flora Nova bloom from start to finish it has everything a plant needs not even a need for flora Nova grow.. and keep in mind less is ALWAYS better.. running up 2000ppm nute solutions will not get you anymore then 1200ppm.. the plant is going to get what it wants.. forcing strong nute soulutions on the plant will just burn roots and hurt the plants ability to bring in even basic's up like water...
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Hey u said u ended of with 20-25 main cola's... My question is since my cabinet is even smaller than yours I got rid of about 8-10 cola's that weren't gonna reach the light around day 12 of flower Leaving me with about 15 main cola's... Was this a good idea?? Will it prob hurt or help my yield ??
 
Dayzt

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't be too concerned - if you're confident they wouldn't have developed due to lack of light, then you made the right decision as the rest of the plant will benefit from that energy being diverted to the rest of the plant. After the first 2 weeks of flower though (while it's doing the most stretching), I wouldn't trim anything else - just let her do her thang...
 
L

LibertyHaze1

Member
SCOTTYBALLS said:
yes i go under the screen then let the tip come up threw another hole once that tip is about 2-3" tall i carfully pull it back down and find another hole further away basically just spreading thr branches secondary growth will start growing faster do to the extra light and fill in the gaps..
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Thanks ScottyBalls! This thread is exactly what I'm looking for! My Liberty Haze just sprouted in rockwool and will go into my WF in a few days. Whish me luck. Thanks again for the help!
 
SirGreenThumb

SirGreenThumb

Well-Known Member
jela10 said:
I really wished I knew...it happens on almost every strain I grow but its only the fan leaves up top that are affected. I had a fan up high blowing down on the tops to help with the heat of the HPS. Also, with buds so thick I worry about bud rot in the last couple of weeks. No big hit to the yield, just the price I pay for pushing it to the limits.
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I know this is from several months ago, but I wanted to say that usually the leaf curl is caused by improper ph. It happens especially in hydro. Also, I noticed that it doesn't seem effect growth at all, but looks very unsightly.

It's called clawing.
 
Eflo

Eflo

Well-Known Member
SCOTTYBALLS said:
IMO its the best hydro system out there Ive done custom built High pressure Aeroponics you name it, nothing has out performed it yet. I have had 15 oz yeilds on a regular with one water farm, 400w hps and one plant.

It works by pumping air in a tube witch makes bubbles the bubbles push water up the tube pushing water with it.. the water enters the drip ring spiting water and air.. I think the reason they work so well is 90% of oxygen in water is picked up threw the surface layer of the water.. well all the water that drips over the hydroton is all surface water.. so its really oxygenated... great system I end up with a brick of roots in the top bucket and a brick or roots in the lower bucket when its done..

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Hey Scotty awesome grow, I am truly amazed just wondering if you have a link to one of these I would appreciate that... I plan on growing in a 4x4 you think I can get away with two of these bad boys in there?
 
Eflo

Eflo

Well-Known Member
SCOTTYBALLS said:
IMO its the best hydro system out there Ive done custom built High pressure Aeroponics you name it, nothing has out performed it yet. I have had 15 oz yeilds on a regular with one water farm, 400w hps and one plant.

It works by pumping air in a tube witch makes bubbles the bubbles push water up the tube pushing water with it.. the water enters the drip ring spiting water and air.. I think the reason they work so well is 90% of oxygen in water is picked up threw the surface layer of the water.. well all the water that drips over the hydroton is all surface water.. so its really oxygenated... great system I end up with a brick of roots in the top bucket and a brick or roots in the lower bucket when its done..

Click to expand...
Is it true that the quality of taste and smell diminish when you grow like this? I like to taste my weed and they say soil is the best way to grow when it comes to smell in taste
 
Eflo

Eflo

Well-Known Member
I have read this forum about 20 times and I can't figure out how do you determine how much water your plant is drinking? Can someone help me on this?
 
DrCannaPath

DrCannaPath

Well-Known Member
I read the entire thread in a couple of days. I wish I had read this before starting my (almost over) grow. I too have a G13 labs PE in a 4x4. However its with a sensi NL, BF liberty haze in one bubbler and a purple haze in soil. All are under 600w MH/HPS with cool tube and temps are in the high 70s to low 80s. I use the FloraNova too but I plan on switching to only using bloom. I already did lots of research on the water warm and was sold on it even before seeing this thread. Now that I saw your result, I am purchasing it this week!
I FIMed my PE once and super cropped a few of its branches. It got too bushy to the point of violating all the other plants and pushing them aside. Thus plant is a beast and I definitely recommend it. I'm going to grow it again but copying your method!
Thanks again buddy I'll be following you from now on


https://www.rollitup.org/index.php?threads/841773/
 
ncboy65

ncboy65

Well-Known Member
T.M.B said:
If that offended you I appologize man your kidding me right, how on earth can you be so offended you give hydro advice like you have been doing it forever all I tried to state was their are people having incredible results without pushing ppms being said nutes are only a part of a healthy grow you need all the other variables as well ok?
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you 2 guys sound like 2 black girls. Just be quiet. It's okay to let someone say something that you don't agree with and not reply. It is okay. A real man knows when to just say nothing in reply even if he knows he's right. Now let's see if you are a real man.
 
J

jbeatzzz

Member
SCOTTYBALLS said:
There are a few things you should do to get it to perform at its peak... You will notice there are 2 buckets the top brown bucket has a few holes in the bottom.. Fix that by drilling as many 1/4" holes in the bottom as posible.. Keep in mind it dose need to be strong enough to support the hydroton and plant just dont get to carried away.. this will allow the roots to grow down in the bottom bucket... also a larger air pump works better then the one that comes with it for more circulation..

However if you want 15oz your going to need a serious enclosure.. I grow in a pretty small cab that is completly coverd in mylar.. even the top and bottom of the cab is coverd in mylar... I run a single 400w HPS normally.. this time im trying out a 400w Ceramic metal hylide.. now that would be considerd by most way overkill in a small cab but not to me.. the trick is keeping the temps down low enough to run a 400 in a small cab.. I do this with a 485 CFM dayton blower that pulls cool air in threw the bottom and exits out the top... also to keep the plants low enough I have a SCROG screen wich I use to tuck and weave the branches under till the whole screen is filled this lets all the branches get just as much light as the others... I pretty much end up with about 20-25 main colas instead of just 1.. And my #1 rule is to not use any additives like Kabloom other additives IMO they are all gimicks.. I use 1 fertilizer and that is GH Flora Nova bloom from start to finish it has everything a plant needs not even a need for flora Nova grow.. and keep in mind less is ALWAYS better.. running up 2000ppm nute solutions will not get you anymore then 1200ppm.. the plant is going to get what it wants.. forcing strong nute soulutions on the plant will just burn roots and hurt the plants ability to bring in even basic's up like water...
Click to expand...
What is your feeding schedule with the nova nutrients? And do you flush every week when you change your nut levels.
 
alienrain

alienrain

Well-Known Member
Here's a question...I've got an extremely similar set up. A small cab (maybe a little several inches taller than Scotty), a 400WCMH, and a 485CFM dayton blower like Scotty has here. (There's no carbon scrubber on the fan either)

I've taken a 2 inch notch out of the back of the cab that runs along the bottom. (Had to really study one of Scotty's pics to figure that out.)

My problem is the temps in my cab still reach 113 degrees. I put my digital thermometer under a shield of cardboard so I wouldn't get a mis-read from the radiant heat. The air in the room my cab is in is 75. How can I keep the temperatures in check, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

Thanks for all the help in advance!!
 
mr2shim

mr2shim

Well-Known Member
alienrain said:
Here's a question...I've got an extremely similar set up. A small cab (maybe a little several inches taller than Scotty), a 400WCMH, and a 485CFM dayton blower like Scotty has here. (There's no carbon scrubber on the fan either)

I've taken a 2 inch notch out of the back of the cab that runs along the bottom. (Had to really study one of Scotty's pics to figure that out.)

My problem is the temps in my cab still reach 113 degrees. I put my digital thermometer under a shield of cardboard so I wouldn't get a mis-read from the radiant heat. The air in the room my cab is in is 75. How can I keep the temperatures in check, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

Thanks for all the help in advance!!
Click to expand...
Keep the room your cab is in cold.
 
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