Hear, hear! I ignore a lot of advice I read on cannabis forums. If it sounds even remotely silly, it's bound to give insanely silly results; and not in any humorous way. If plants needed all the stuff people tell you they need, then why do they do so well on their own when left to Mother Nature?
Exactly.
UB, what sites would you recommend for some good reading on botany? Doesn't have to be cannabis related; I want to brush up on basic botany itself.
You'll have to do a search. Regarding the best read on botany, it's hard to beat Mel Franks books and they are cannabis focused. I have his 82 Grower's guide. Without question, he is a master gardener in all respects.
Thanks for the advice, even if it was a little harsh... and even though you really didnt' answer my question but instead took the time to make me feel like another "doomed" amateur.
Unless you tell me what your daily activities are, I can only guess. And again, color means alot to me so the photos under HPS can't be used as a judgement tool.
My plants have been improving since I added the lime.
Again, lime's affect is alkaline. Are you trying to raise the pH, because that is what you're doing.
Could be a result of the foliar. I feel like I have a good idea of what I'm doing here but I was just curious why the runoff was so much lower pH than the water I put in.
Because soil is a powerful buffer, like I said. What is the pH of your runoff? pH adjusted water is for someone that has alot of time on their hands.
I probably did burn them a little early but I really don't think i'm "doomed."
I meant that in the context of taking folks' advice without understanding the shortcomings of your garden and the impact of their suggestions. For example, you're saying your soil's pH is 7.5 (alkaline) but you're doing exactly the opposite of what you should to bring it down to say.....6.5. Having said that,
IF your meter is accurate and you're measuring your soil's pH like you should, then you need to take other measures. To repeat myself, cannabis is pH tolerant. pH only relates to elemental uptake, not leaf curling, etc. A pH of 7.5 is certainly in the range to grow healthy, productive plants. I would not bother to adjust a pH of 7.5, there are much more important issues to concern yourself with like producing and maintaining a healthy root system and lots of foliage.
I also didn't do all those things people suggested, it's just what they suggested. I only did the lime because it acts as a buffer to either bring soil ph Up if it's too low or Down if it's too high.
No sir, lime has an alkaline affect. Dolomite is moderate in its affect and quicklime (hydrated) is radical. All will buffer the pH up, the former is a carbonate the latter a hydroxide, not sulfates.
And they put a lot of chlorine in the water where I live once a month so I think I'm going to keep using my "waste of time" de-chlorinator.
Brita is the easiest and quickest to use if you choose to de-chlorinate your water. It also has a side benefit of removing bicarbonates.
When introducing living bacteria and beneficial microbes to a soil like with organic compost teas you have to use de-chlorinated water or microbes won't LIVE.
Who says? Have you ever done an analysis of the before or after regarding the microbe count, or you relying on a feeling or what someone says? I lived very near a water processing plant so the chlorine amines (or whatever they are called) were at their highest levels at my house as opposed to 40 miles at the end of the delivery system. I never had issues using tapwater, on cannabis or otherwise, and I am an organic gardener who always uses peat moss and manure compost.
Regarding this tea product, gotta a link for me?
BTW, you do understand that organic fertilizers are useless unless they contain the proper nutritional salts or are able to convert into such salts?
Good luck,
Tio