Please help me diagnose my Tahoe og.

Hey guys,
Hoping you all can help me once again. Growing Tahoe OG, clones taken from a mother plant from seed. Cali connection. Currently growing under 1000 watters and doing multiple strains but I'm ONLY having problems with my tahoes. I wanna nip it in the bud before it gets any worse. Here goes...

STRAIN: Tahoe OG
MEDIUM: promix hp mixed with ffof
LIGHTING: 1000 watt hps
TEMPS: 74 on 66 off
NUTES: Sensi Bloom 1.3 ec or roughly 880ppm (700 scale) PH 6.4
WATER: RO w/calmag
LIGHT DISTANCE: 12-15"

In week 3 of flower. Have been alternating between feeding and watering until 20% runoff.
The problem I'm having is the upper fan leaves on Tahoe # 1 are yellowing out and they shouldn't be. They're getting plenty of food. I use RO water and add calmag every watering whether I'm feeding or watering.
They're growing well, putting on weight and frosting up well. But the upper fan leaves are yellowing. My first inclination is to say a PH issue but my ph meter is brand new and my ph has been right at 6.3-6.4 every watering/feeding. I also suspected overfeeding but I have zero clawed leaves and no burned tips or edges. I'm stumped. The only other possibility I could come up with was light stress. Perhaps the light was just a little too close? Made by Milwaukee. Are they just heavy feeders? Do I need to kick up the ppm's to 1100 or so with this strain.

I have no clue what this could be and will seriously appreciate at help you guys can offer.

*** Remember, the yellow is at the top fan leaves. The bottom leaves are green and healthy. And it's only a few leaves here and there. I don't want it to get worse.

It's probably the strain, doesn't seem like light stress maybe they are alittle more hungry, but don't jump the ppm too high. Might burn them, I would just continue what you were doing and keep an eye out, they don't look bad to be worried or make a big change you'll end up causing other problems and confuse the situation more. Just raise the PPM maybe 50-75 see if it changes anything, you can also cut those leaves off and see if any other leaves get effected. They will probably stopped making new leaves or just about to stop so just keep an eye out and don't stress it's not a major problem!! Actually it could be pushing the last stretch and usually when it's stretching quickly the leaves are alittle lighter until it develops.

OK, some growers will vehemently deny this, but considering how heavily those plants are flowering I think it's totally normal and healthy for some big leaves to start fading at that stage of the life cycle. It's called senescence. It's entirely possible that you're doing everything right, and your plants are just showing their age.

It is also possible that this is early deficiency of an immobile micro-nutrient judging by it not being yellow on lower leaves, so I would think it could be zinc.

I think promix has some fert in it and I know for that FF ocean forest does too. I think you've over done it on the ferts, the bloom in particular. I think your leaves are yellowing because of high phosphorus which is poisoning them. You don't need to fert so much in soil, especially if your soil has fert in it already. You could probably just use FF for an entire grow after the plants are about 10 inches tall without ferting, because that's what it's made for. The light warrior soil is made for small plants. They grow up some, then you transplant into ocean forest and just give water. People are always adding more fert to ocean forest but the reason why you buy this soil to begin with is because it has fert in it. If you search the web, you'll see words on ocean forest that say: "Ocean forest organic soil is ready to use right out of the bag," and this: "Ocean forest organic potting soil possesses everything in one bag." It doesn't say add more fertilizer." You see what I mean?
Diluting with promix might be a good idea, but adding so much fert later probably isn't a good idea. We see a lot of this, where growers keep adding more fert to FF soil because they're under the impression that this needs to be done, but it just isn't the case. So for these plants, I would just water when the soil is dry until you get a small amount of runoff and let it be and see how things go. Maybe consider transplanting if you want, but at 3 weeks flower, you seem to have more than enough fert in the soil now. It's easy to confuse yellowing leaves with a lack of nurtrients, but over ferting will cause the same thing - as the leaves die, they turn yellow.

polishpollack said:

I think promix has some fert in it and I know for that FF ocean forest does too. I think you've over done it on the ferts, the bloom in particular. I think your leaves are yellowing because of high phosphorus which is poisoning them. You don't need to fert so much in soil, especially if your soil has fert in it already. You could probably just use FF for an entire grow after the plants are about 10 inches tall without ferting, because that's what it's made for. The light warrior soil is made for small plants. They grow up some, then you transplant into ocean forest and just give water. People are always adding more fert to ocean forest but the reason why you buy this soil to begin with is because it has fert in it. If you search the web, you'll see words on ocean forest that say: "Ocean forest organic soil is ready to use right out of the bag," and this: "Ocean forest organic potting soil possesses everything in one bag." It doesn't say add more fertilizer." You see what I mean?
Diluting with promix might be a good idea, but adding so much fert later probably isn't a good idea. We see a lot of this, where growers keep adding more fert to FF soil because they're under the impression that this needs to be done, but it just isn't the case. So for these plants, I would just water when the soil is dry until you get a small amount of runoff and let it be and see how things go. Maybe consider transplanting if you want, but at 3 weeks flower, you seem to have more than enough fert in the soil now. It's easy to confuse yellowing leaves with a lack of nurtrients, but over ferting will cause the same thing - as the leaves die, they turn yellow.

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Sounds like a great plan brother!! Back off on nuts, if new growth is normal then problem fixed, if it gets worse then this strain requires more nutes, since your feeding all the other plants the same and this strain is the only one doing it. It's much safer taking this route then to add alittle more fert and end up burning them, I have read that those types of mixes are very hot soil and really just need water all the way through till harvest. Good luck!!

polishpollack said:

I think promix has some fert in it and I know for that FF ocean forest does too. I think you've over done it on the ferts, the bloom in particular. I think your leaves are yellowing because of high phosphorus which is poisoning them. You don't need to fert so much in soil, especially if your soil has fert in it already. You could probably just use FF for an entire grow after the plants are about 10 inches tall without ferting, because that's what it's made for. The light warrior soil is made for small plants. They grow up some, then you transplant into ocean forest and just give water. People are always adding more fert to ocean forest but the reason why you buy this soil to begin with is because it has fert in it. If you search the web, you'll see words on ocean forest that say: "Ocean forest organic soil is ready to use right out of the bag," and this: "Ocean forest organic potting soil possesses everything in one bag." It doesn't say add more fertilizer." You see what I mean?
Diluting with promix might be a good idea, but adding so much fert later probably isn't a good idea. We see a lot of this, where growers keep adding more fert to FF soil because they're under the impression that this needs to be done, but it just isn't the case. So for these plants, I would just water when the soil is dry until you get a small amount of runoff and let it be and see how things go. Maybe consider transplanting if you want, but at 3 weeks flower, you seem to have more than enough fert in the soil now. It's easy to confuse yellowing leaves with a lack of nurtrients, but over ferting will cause the same thing - as the leaves die, they turn yellow.

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Thanks brother. Overfeeding is a possibility I suppose. Last grow I had lock out on a plant so this grow I've been extra cautious applying nutes. I always apply at lower strength than recommended. My only fear is, what if they're not overfed and it is in fact a deficiency. My girls will be starved at the most critical time for development. The promix hp I'm using is completely inert. The ocean forest does, but I vegged them for a full month prior to flowering with only one very low feeding of 400ppm during that time. The ocean forest does have nutes but it doesn't feed your plants forever. After a few weeks to a month, the plants use up all available nutes and you need to add more, correct?

So the consensus is i should back off the nutes?

Thank you guys! I love you guys and I'm so grateful riu is back! P.S. Does anybody know why it was down so long the last time.

Jerro said:

It's probably the strain, doesn't seem like light stress maybe they are alittle more hungry, but don't jump the ppm too high. Might burn them, I would just continue what you were doing and keep an eye out, they don't look bad to be worried or make a big change you'll end up causing other problems and confuse the situation more. Just raise the PPM maybe 50-75 see if it changes anything, you can also cut those leaves off and see if any other leaves get effected. They will probably stopped making new leaves or just about to stop so just keep an eye out and don't stress it's not a major problem!! Actually it could be pushing the last stretch and usually when it's stretching quickly the leaves are alittle lighter until it develops.

Click to expand...

Jerro said:

It's probably the strain, doesn't seem like light stress maybe they are alittle more hungry, but don't jump the ppm too high. Might burn them, I would just continue what you were doing and keep an eye out, they don't look bad to be worried or make a big change you'll end up causing other problems and confuse the situation more. Just raise the PPM maybe 50-75 see if it changes anything, you can also cut those leaves off and see if any other leaves get effected. They will probably stopped making new leaves or just about to stop so just keep an eye out and don't stress it's not a major problem!! Actually it could be pushing the last stretch and usually when it's stretching quickly the leaves are alittle lighter until it develops.

Click to expand...

Thank you brother!

polishpollack said:

I think promix has some fert in it and I know for that FF ocean forest does too. I think you've over done it on the ferts, the bloom in particular. I think your leaves are yellowing because of high phosphorus which is poisoning them. You don't need to fert so much in soil, especially if your soil has fert in it already. You could probably just use FF for an entire grow after the plants are about 10 inches tall without ferting, because that's what it's made for. The light warrior soil is made for small plants. They grow up some, then you transplant into ocean forest and just give water. People are always adding more fert to ocean forest but the reason why you buy this soil to begin with is because it has fert in it. If you search the web, you'll see words on ocean forest that say: "Ocean forest organic soil is ready to use right out of the bag," and this: "Ocean forest organic potting soil possesses everything in one bag." It doesn't say add more fertilizer." You see what I mean?
Diluting with promix might be a good idea, but adding so much fert later probably isn't a good idea. We see a lot of this, where growers keep adding more fert to FF soil because they're under the impression that this needs to be done, but it just isn't the case. So for these plants, I would just water when the soil is dry until you get a small amount of runoff and let it be and see how things go. Maybe consider transplanting if you want, but at 3 weeks flower, you seem to have more than enough fert in the soil now. It's easy to confuse yellowing leaves with a lack of nurtrients, but over ferting will cause the same thing - as the leaves die, they turn yellow.

Click to expand...

So you think even though I didn't feed them for a month, there is still plenty of ferts in my soil even though 50% of my medium is completely inert? That would be 50% ocean forest is hot enough to burn full sized plants 7 weeks later. Seems unlikely based on my knowledge but I am somewhat a newb and I'm not discounting your advice by any means. Just trying to get a firm understanding. I've noticed in veg, when I transplant clones into 1 gallon pots in ocean forest, after around 3-3.5 weeks of only water, they start getting hungry and yellow. I actually have clones that are about 3 weeks old in ocean forest and I HAD to feed them last night. They were starting to yellow from the bottom pretty badly. So maybe it's strain dependent? I did notice the glue was a lot more hungry than the Tahoe # 3...

I will give them straight RO water with some calmag the next couple waterings and see if it gets any better. If it continues to get worse on just water, then I'll bump up the ec. Thank you again everybody. Can't even tell you guys how much I appreciate you! I was lost those weeks riu was down!

You are using ppm levels that are for hydro, not soil. Potting soil traps nutrients, combined with the fact that ocean forest has nutrients already, leads me to believe you're over ferting. The color looks more like you are probably giving too much phosphorus. Why do you write that you haven't given any food for a month when in your first post you write "They're getting plenty of food." In these forums you should be specific and give all the details, otherwise it's confusing. The leaves look pretty good for the most part, so I would just give water when dry and see how it goes. Another few weeks and they will be done. Don't use hydro ppm levels for soil next time. Hydro is nothing but water and is a high dilution so you need to raise the ppm and it's safe to do so. Soil is a different story.

polishpollack said:

You are using ppm levels that are for hydro, not soil. Potting soil traps nutrients, combined with the fact that ocean forest has nutrients already, leads me to believe you're over ferting. The color looks more like you are probably giving too much phosphorus. Why do you write that you haven't given any food for a month when in your first post you write "They're getting plenty of food." In these forums you should be specific and give all the details, otherwise it's confusing. The leaves look pretty good for the most part, so I would just give water when dry and see how it goes. Another few weeks and they will be done. Don't use hydro ppm levels for soil next time. Hydro is nothing but water and is a high dilution so you need to raise the ppm and it's safe to do so. Soil is a different story.

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That makes a lot of sense. Thank you. Now that I think about it, I was on a feed/water/water schedule my first grow. This time seeing how I'm in a 50/50 mix of ocean forest and promix, I've been on a water/feed schedule believing that promix requires more frequent feedings than soil. Didn't have this prob in my first grow but didn't run OG's either. I'm taking your advice and I'll report back later in the week with the results. I apologize for not being more clear above. I transplanted into 5 gallon pots, vegged for a month, and then started flowering without transplanting. They started getting nutes day 3 of flower. I figured seeing how I used hardly any nutes there wasn't much to worry about. I'm also gonna check my run off, but I think you're spot on and I'm sorry if my reply came across douchy. I truly appreciate your help and mean no disrespect. Do you think sticking to the 850ppm or 1.2 ec is still safe if i go back to a feed/water/water schedule? If not, what ec should I be feeding and how often?

Runbho said:

That makes a lot of sense. Thank you. Now that I think about it, I was on a feed/water/water schedule my first grow. This time seeing how I'm in a 50/50 mix of ocean forest and promix, I've been on a water/feed schedule believing that promix requires more frequent feedings than soil. Didn't have this prob in my first grow but didn't run OG's either. I'm taking your advice and I'll report back later in the week with the results. I apologize for not being more clear above. I transplanted into 5 gallon pots, vegged for a month, and then started flowering without transplanting. They started getting nutes day 3 of flower. I figured seeing how I used hardly any nutes there wasn't much to worry about. I'm also gonna check my run off, but I think you're spot on and I'm sorry if my reply came across douchy. I truly appreciate your help and mean no disrespect. Do you think sticking to the 850ppm or 1.2 ec is still safe if i go back to a feed/water/water schedule? If not, what ec should I be feeding and how often?

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I run pro mix,NO OF though, either grow in soil or grow in soiless. I feed every time I water, but at low ppms of 5-700. I also NEVER use High P in my grows. also, IMO, the first 2 weeks of flower is when they grow the most and need to be fed properly as they grow.

polishpollack said:

You are using ppm levels that are for hydro, not soil. Potting soil traps nutrients, combined with the fact that ocean forest has nutrients already, leads me to believe you're over ferting. The color looks more like you are probably giving too much phosphorus. Why do you write that you haven't given any food for a month when in your first post you write "They're getting plenty of food." In these forums you should be specific and give all the details, otherwise it's confusing. The leaves look pretty good for the most part, so I would just give water when dry and see how it goes. Another few weeks and they will be done. Don't use hydro ppm levels for soil next time. Hydro is nothing but water and is a high dilution so you need to raise the ppm and it's safe to do so. Soil is a different story.

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I just found my notes. Maybe you guys can better diagnose with this info. Looking at the bottom leaves I am seeing a few deficient of mag and nitrogen ever so slightly.

Plant were vegged for a month.
2/16 was Day 1 of flower.
2/20 They had 1st feeding 700ppm or 1 ec
3/2 780ppm
3/10 880ppm.

So I'm feeding roughly every 8 to 10 days. And watering the tahoes every 4.

They've been getting water in between feedings. I feed other strains way more than this and even have some deficiencies if I don't which is why I was hesitant to suspect over fert to begin with. Maybe they're just really sensitive feeders. Above is all the food they've had so far and they're pushing 5ft tall not counting the pot. Getting either the Titan flo n gro today or a 4x4 flood setup to play with hydro and experiment. I feel like hydro will really allow me to get to know this strain and it's needs.

Dr.Nick Riviera said:

I run pro mix,NO OF though, either grow in soil or grow in soiless. I feed every time I water, but at low ppms of 5-700. I also NEVER use High P in my grows. also, IMO, the first 2 weeks of flower is when they grow the most and need to be fed properly as they grow.

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Thanks brother. I only got the promix because my shop ran out and didn't have enough for one or the other and I was already super behind on transplanting clones. When you say you don't mean high P, are you saying you don't use additives or boosters? You only use base nutes? That's what's weird. I'm watering between feedings and having problems where you feed every time with none. And my ppms aren't that much higher. Is OG known to be a heavy feeder. Or og crosses? I'm still stumped. Every time I over fed in the past I had curled or burnt tips. This is the very first time over ferting had presented itself in this manner.

Runbho said:

Thanks brother. I only got the promix because my shop ran out and didn't have enough for one or the other and I was already super behind on transplanting clones. When you say you don't mean high P, are you saying you don't use additives or boosters? You only use base nutes? That's what's weird. I'm watering between feedings and having problems where you feed every time with none. And my ppms aren't that much higher. Is OG known to be a heavy feeder. Or og crosses? I'm still stumped. Every time I over fed in the past I had curled or burnt tips. This is the very first time over ferting had presented itself in this manner.

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all plants are different feeders, but og's can be really tough sometimes. I actually just popped 3 cali con tahoe Og's, so I will know more as I go along. so far, they are growing faster than my bodhi strains. As far as MY feedings, I add earth worm castings to my pro-mix, that takes them thru veg. then In flower, I only use a 3-1-2 all in one nute, no additives.
If I wanted to add anything, I would wait until week 6 to do so, But i like a nice healthy happy plant when I finish. ALSO, I Use R/o and quit using cal/mag. My base nutes have enough of those in them.

Dr.Nick Riviera said:

all plants are different feeders, but og's can be really tough sometimes. I actually just popped 3 cali con tahoe Og's, so I will know more as I go along. so far, they are growing faster than my bodhi strains. As far as MY feedings, I add earth worm castings to my pro-mix, that takes them thru veg. then In flower, I only use a 3-1-2 all in one nute, no additives.
If I wanted to add anything, I would wait until week 6 to do so, But i like a nice healthy happy plant when I finish. ALSO, I Use R/o and quit using cal/mag. My base nutes have enough of those in them.

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Thank you for the info. That's crazy. Everybody and their mom says always use calmag with RO. Sounds like you're pretty well dialed in. I guess I'll go ahead and tone the nutes down after checking my runoff ppm and ph.

Runbho said:

Thank you for the info. That's crazy. Everybody and their mom says always use calmag with RO. Sounds like you're pretty well dialed in. I guess I'll go ahead and tone the nutes down after checking my runoff ppm and ph.

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if your nutes don't provide enough, then you may need to add some occasionally. Every watering is too much.

fox farm !!! ding ding ding!
beautiful strain
beautiful substrate
shitty nutrients all around

chemphlegm said:

fox farm !!! ding ding ding!
beautiful strain
beautiful substrate
shitty nutrients all around

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Fox farm are shitty nutrients? I'm not using fox farm. I'm using sensi bloom. Are you saying sensi bloom is shit? I will agree that Advanced sucks as a company and their gear is way expensive, but aside from that, they're great nutes. Their base nutes kicks ass. Anybody being honest with themselves will admit it. If advanced was the same price as botanicare, Advanced would be #1. Great product, shitty company with shitty ethics.