Pool shock/ nutrient adding order

S

Stomate

Active Member
rkymtnman said:
i use GH pH down too. it's phosphoric acid. don't think it has ammonia in it.

and iv'e used shock with the GH 3 part, maxibloom and dyna gro foliage pro. all with no issues. i think the % of ammonia based N in all of them is very small: most N is from cal nitrate
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Just a thought but maybe a lot of people on here that are adding crazy amounts of chlorine to their systems are only getting away with it due to (say) half of their available chlorine being neutralized because of ammonia based products or whatever. I’ve also read anything below a ph of 6 will cause a very rapid gassing off of chlorine levels.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
not sure about the ammonia or the pH of 6 part but lots of aeration and vitamin C will break down the chlorine very quickly.

i just added 4ppm to my res last week and it had a swimming pool smell for about 3 good days.
 
S

Stomate

Active Member
rkymtnman said:
not sure about the ammonia or the pH of 6 part but lots of aeration and vitamin C will break down the chlorine very quickly.

i just added 4ppm to my res last week and it had a swimming pool smell for about 3 good days.
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I just don’t get it… seems like a decent amount of people on here do the same and when I do even half of that I nuke my roots… it’s very frustrating haha
 
N

Norville Rogers

Member
FWIW some of the pool shocks contain different additives; i always look at the sds safety data sheet. The 3 in 1 is much cleaner than the 4 in 1 as an example. You want the calcium part, not salts. The one i like is 65% and has:

HTH Super Sock It Shock Treatment
Calcium hypochlorite 65 - 75
Calcium chlorate 0 - 5
Calcium chloride 0 - 5
Calcium dihydroxide 0 - 4

Personally i add 10 grams a gallon and then use about 2 ml a gallon every few days. How i measure the chlorine is reading the plants and using an ORP meter to watch the levels go up and down. You basically get a base of your initial water number (mine is 350) and then watch for it to go down or up. Up means more sterile and down means more biological\organic matter. I dose it to around 500 and watch it drift down to under 400 over a few days and then redose. If i add the usual dose and the ORP doesn't increase it means the chlorine is neutralized as it clings to an organic molecule and cleans things. I add a little more until it goes up, but within reason. Sometimes your roots may be getting rot and you need more than just adding more chlorine or else you will overdose the plant and it goes yellow. You just find what works and try to maintain it IMO. An ORP meter is the only method i would trust after alot of trial and error.

I should also add that if you start fresh and put chlorine in the res and the res smells inside like chlorine it's a good thing, but you shouldn't smell it in the room. Once you smell it, it means it has evapourated into the air and is no longer in the water (the free chlorine i think). The same applies in pools and why it smells like strong chlorine but it's ok to swim; because the chlorine is in the air and not the water.

Edit: thanks people. I just noticed what you were all mentioning about Nitrogen and i think you may be on to something. I use 2000gph water pump for chiller and 4 spraybars that has about 3 psi on a guage while running so i'd say fairly high aeration. But, my nutrients are mostly N3 nitrogen except these that have N4:
MAP 12.18% (chlorine goes to hell)
Jacks RO 12-4-16 0.2% (no effect)
Jacks Bloom 10-30-20 5% (i think chlorine goes to hell, i hate this product; no calcium)
Jacks Finish 7-15-30 3% (i don't think i like this one much either but it does seem to work and it may effect the chlorine too, i've had roots that went a little brown right at the end)

Just a weird observation i'll make a note of. The MAP i don't use often, the Jacks RO is fine, and the other 2 i assumed my readings were from transitioning from veg to flower tents (the Jacks Bloom?) and then the Jacks Finish may have caused the late browning that i attributed to end of life.
 
Last edited:
gwheels

gwheels

Well-Known Member
Norville Rogers said:
FWIW some of the pool shocks contain different additives; i always look at the sds safety data sheet. The 3 in 1 is much cleaner than the 4 in 1 as an example. You want the calcium part, not salts. The one i like is 65% and has:

HTH Super Sock It Shock Treatment
Calcium hypochlorite 65 - 75
Calcium chlorate 0 - 5
Calcium chloride 0 - 5
Calcium dihydroxide 0 - 4

Personally i add 10 grams a gallon and then use about 2 ml a gallon every few days. How i measure the chlorine is reading the plants and using an ORP meter to watch the levels go up and down. You basically get a base of your initial water number (mine is 350) and then watch for it to go down or up. Up means more sterile and down means more biological\organic matter. I dose it to around 500 and watch it drift down to under 400 over a few days and then redose. If i add the usual dose and the ORP doesn't increase it means the chlorine is neutralized as it clings to an organic molecule and cleans things. I add a little more until it goes up, but within reason. Sometimes your roots may be getting rot and you need more than just adding more chlorine or else you will overdose the plant and it goes yellow. You just find what works and try to maintain it IMO. An ORP meter is the only method i would trust after alot of trial and error.

I should also add that if you start fresh and put chlorine in the res and the res smells inside like chlorine it's a good thing, but you shouldn't smell it in the room. Once you smell it, it means it has evapourated into the air and is no longer in the water (the free chlorine i think). The same applies in pools and why it smells like strong chlorine but it's ok to swim; because the chlorine is in the air and not the water.

Edit: thanks people. I just noticed what you were all mentioning about Nitrogen and i think you may be on to something. I use 2000gph water pump for chiller and 4 spraybars that has about 3 psi on a guage while running so i'd say fairly high aeration. But, my nutrients are mostly N3 nitrogen except these that have N4:
MAP 12.18% (chlorine goes to hell)
Jacks RO 12-4-16 0.2% (no effect)
Jacks Bloom 10-30-20 5% (i think chlorine goes to hell, i hate this product; no calcium)
Jacks Finish 7-15-30 3% (i don't think i like this one much either but it does seem to work and it may effect the chlorine too, i've had roots that went a little brown right at the end)

Just a weird observation i'll make a note of. The MAP i don't use often, the Jacks RO is fine, and the other 2 i assumed my readings were from transitioning from veg to flower tents (the Jacks Bloom?) and then the Jacks Finish may have caused the late browning that i attributed to end of life.
Click to expand...
Norville Rogers said:
FWIW some of the pool shocks contain different additives; i always look at the sds safety data sheet. The 3 in 1 is much cleaner than the 4 in 1 as an example. You want the calcium part, not salts. The one i like is 65% and has:

HTH Super Sock It Shock Treatment
Calcium hypochlorite 65 - 75
Calcium chlorate 0 - 5
Calcium chloride 0 - 5
Calcium dihydroxide 0 - 4

Personally i add 10 grams a gallon and then use about 2 ml a gallon every few days. How i measure the chlorine is reading the plants and using an ORP meter to watch the levels go up and down. You basically get a base of your initial water number (mine is 350) and then watch for it to go down or up. Up means more sterile and down means more biological\organic matter. I dose it to around 500 and watch it drift down to under 400 over a few days and then redose. If i add the usual dose and the ORP doesn't increase it means the chlorine is neutralized as it clings to an organic molecule and cleans things. I add a little more until it goes up, but within reason. Sometimes your roots may be getting rot and you need more than just adding more chlorine or else you will overdose the plant and it goes yellow. You just find what works and try to maintain it IMO. An ORP meter is the only method i would trust after alot of trial and error.

I should also add that if you start fresh and put chlorine in the res and the res smells inside like chlorine it's a good thing, but you shouldn't smell it in the room. Once you smell it, it means it has evapourated into the air and is no longer in the water (the free chlorine i think). The same applies in pools and why it smells like strong chlorine but it's ok to swim; because the chlorine is in the air and not the water.

Edit: thanks people. I just noticed what you were all mentioning about Nitrogen and i think you may be on to something. I use 2000gph water pump for chiller and 4 spraybars that has about 3 psi on a guage while running so i'd say fairly high aeration. But, my nutrients are mostly N3 nitrogen except these that have N4:
MAP 12.18% (chlorine goes to hell)
Jacks RO 12-4-16 0.2% (no effect)
Jacks Bloom 10-30-20 5% (i think chlorine goes to hell, i hate this product; no calcium)
Jacks Finish 7-15-30 3% (i don't think i like this one much either but it does seem to work and it may effect the chlorine too, i've had roots that went a little brown right at the end)

Just a weird observation i'll make a note of. The MAP i don't use often, the Jacks RO is fine, and the other 2 i assumed my readings were from transitioning from veg to flower tents (the Jacks Bloom?) and then the Jacks Finish may have caused the late browning that i attributed to end of life.
Click to expand...
Jacks 10 30 20 uses urea nitrogen? It can explain why it is irritad when 12 4 16 is not (cal nit based i believe).
 
N

Norville Rogers

Member
gwheels said:
Jacks 10 30 20 uses urea nitrogen? It can explain why it is irritad when 12 4 16 is not (cal nit based i believe).
Click to expand...
5% N4 (Ammonical) and 5% N3 (Nitrate). Same as me, it just clicked when i saw what people were saying about N4 and it made sense. Literally any problems i had were when it was the N4 added. I don't use any with N2 (Urea).
 
N

nxsov180db

Well-Known Member
Norville Rogers said:
5% N4 (Ammonical) and 5% N3 (Nitrate). Same as me, it just clicked when i saw what people were saying about N4 and it made sense. Literally any problems i had were when it was the N4 added. I don't use any with N2 (Urea).
Click to expand...
50/50 NH4 and NO3? I would only use that for soil applications. You need something with mostly NO3.
 
N

Norville Rogers

Member
I agree 100%. I try to only have 5% total N4 at most, like 95 ppm of N3 and 5 ppm N4, but only because the product added it. I'm totally scrapping the product next round.
 
T

Tomatoesonly

Well-Known Member
What's the actual reaction with ammonia? Is the ammonia getting used up as well in the presence of chlorine? Almost all the nutrient formulas have some sort of ammonia in them.
 
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