Powdery mildew day 38 of flower

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Son of a... This is why I stay out of the growing section. So many newbs want to act like they know it all. It gets old and frustrating:wall:
It is a shame...... However I do feel that arguing with himself will get pretty old if you know what Im saying ... Think of the kid in the room thats being excluded, he will eventually become tired and give up.
Yuppers - Education by reading the backs of bottled nutrients, as if they have it right anyway!

All the best results I ever got with synthetics. Were nutrient brands that either stayed the same or actually increased N (by less then a percent) in their base at the flip. At week 4 you began a P/K boost and I was always careful to limit the P increase and look for more K....
 
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MisterBouncyBounce

Well-Known Member
I wish i could find a link to a story I read once by the CEO of dynagro. It is somewhere on the internet.

It was a really interesting read, he said ALL of their scientific research showed there is no good reason for a 3 part formula, that an all in one fert performed better. he also said research showed using high N low P for veg and low N and high P for flower wasn't as good as keeping the nutes even through out the grow.

In short he said they found all in one 7-7-7 to be the best formula. he then went on the say they that even though research shows one 777 fert is better, people still wanted to use a 3 part formula and so they had to go that route in order to compete, but the fact is 777 with micros and trace elements is the best formula to use through out the grow.

I wish someone can find that link. I'd really like to read the article again.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
I wish i could find a link to a story I read once by the CEO of dynagro. It is somewhere on the internet.

It was a really interesting read, he said ALL of their scientific research showed there is no good reason for a 3 part formula, that an all in one fert performed better. he also said research showed using high N low P for veg and low N and high P for flower wasn't as good as keeping the nutes even through out the grow.

In short he said they found all in one 7-7-7 to be the best formula. he then went on the say they that even though research shows one 777 fert is better, people still wanted to use a 3 part formula and so they had to go that route in order to compete, but the fact is 777 with micros and trace elements is the best formula to use through out the grow.

I wish someone can find that link. I'd really like to read the article again.
Though the 7-7-7 nute may have performed "better", there is no control in variables from plant to plant (eg.) deficiencies from a plant that feeds outside of the 7-7-7 range.
Most use a 3 part just for that reason alone -control. I think almost everyone has rocked a "Schults' 20-20-20" grow or two when they were beginning though lol. It undeniably feeds plants, but becomes daunting when you run into a deficiency from a P/K hungy flowering plant.....hence the need for a 3 part or a P/K booster.
 

backtracker

Well-Known Member
WRONG! What your referring to is that the plants will grow more foliage and reduce air flow! The reduced air flow in and around the core of the plant CAN encourage PM.

The use of Nitrogen in and of it's self...DOES NOT CAUSE THE PLANT TO BE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO PM!



Your second link is better and yet you stoop to name calling and sarcasm! It's beyond obvious that you know far less then you put out!
Your written word outlines a novice skill set at the very best!

Now get out of the principles office and start acting your age......unless of course, you do, still watch romper room...
No, what I'm referring to is the stored nitrates/nitrites in the leaves that is what causes the problems and if the plants get too much nitrogen it ends up stored in the leaves. The use of LSD doesn't cause flying clowns.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
No, what I'm referring to is the stored nitrates/nitrites in the leaves that is what causes the problems and if the plants get too much nitrogen it ends up stored in the leaves. The use of LSD doesn't cause flying clowns.
??????? Say what? You posted this -
too much nitrogen makes the plants more susceptible to pm.
That's what I responded to!

Now stop flying around with the chemphlem clown......I actually have some respect for you!
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Though the 7-7-7 nute may have performed "better", there is no control in variables from plant to plant (eg.) deficiencies from a plant that feeds outside of the 7-7-7 range.
Most use a 3 part just for that reason alone -control. I think almost everyone has rocked a "Schults' 20-20-20" grow or two when they were beginning though lol. It undeniably feeds plants, but becomes daunting when you run into a deficiency from a P/K hungy flowering plant.....hence the need for a 3 part or a P/K booster.
I still like his point on N in bloom! I have read that piece too! It was well said.....Your point is totally valid Red.....Looks like I'll toy with the Botanicare KIND line a bit this summer. Some friends are doing amazing things with it.....I want to see what I can too.. It's a 3 part.....

Base is 4-0-0 with 5% Ca
Grow is 2-2-4
Bloom is 0-6-6

So if you follow the given charts....Your only dropping 2 points of N. The no reduce N nutrient brands are all right about 4 in N at the flip or when they actually raise their N values anyway.

Some of the things I'm seeing and hearing is that the common late start of the bloom works well.
One person hits it with a 50/50 at the flip and then to bloom at 3. They have had a bit of yellowing on some strains that way and not with others (Sat-Ind)...They are doing a run now with bloom at 4th week.

Some have tried it as charted and had great results with indica's and not so with sativa's.

This shows the road to better sativa use alone....It also points to heavy feeder strains really liking this line. I will try a favorite sativa with the run grow till the stretch ends and then drop the grow...It's longer running so I may add some of the bloom as it goes by like 1 part bloom to 3 parts grow.....In late stretch.

I have just about never found that following given synthetic nutrient charts as getting you near a potential. There are a cpl of exceptions to that...

It has higher S then most brands too! That translates to more/better trich's and terps.....I just got to play with it....Should take over a cpl of years to try all the differing ratio's I have in my mind right now....

@MisterBouncyBounce - Nice post to you too sir!
 
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MisterBouncyBounce

Well-Known Member
I still like his point on N in bloom! I have read that piece too! It was well said.....Your point is totally valid Red.....Looks like I'll toy with the Botanicare KIND line a bit this summer. Some friends are doing amazing things with it.....I want to see what I can too.. It's a 3 part.....

Base is 4-0-0 with 5% Ca
Grow is 2-2-4
Bloom is 0-6-6

So if you follow the given charts....Your only dropping 2 points of N. The no reduce N nutrient brands are all right about 4 in N at the flip or when they actually raise their N values anyway.

Some of the things I'm seeing and hearing is that the common late start of the bloom works well.
One person hits it with a 50/50 at the flip and then to bloom at 3. They have had a bit of yellowing on some strains that way and not with others (Sat-Ind)...They are doing a run now with bloom at 4th week.

Some have tried it as charted and had great results with indica's and not so with sativa's.

This shows the road to better sativa use alone....It also points to heavy feeder strains really liking this line. I will try a favorite sativa with the run grow till the stretch ends and then drop the grow...It's longer running so I may add some of the bloom as it goes by like 1 part bloom to 3 parts grow.....In late stretch.

I have just about never found that following given synthetic nutrient charts as getting you near a potential.

It has higher S then most brands too! That translates to more/better trich's and terps.....I just got to play with it....Should take over a cpl of years to try all the differing ratio's I have in my mind right now....

@MisterBouncyBounce - Nice post to you too sir!
Thank you Dr. Who.:)
 

ISK

Well-Known Member
I wish i could find a link to a story I read once by the CEO of dynagro. It is somewhere on the internet.

It was a really interesting read, he said ALL of their scientific research showed there is no good reason for a 3 part formula, that an all in one fert performed better. he also said research showed using high N low P for veg and low N and high P for flower wasn't as good as keeping the nutes even through out the grow.

In short he said they found all in one 7-7-7 to be the best formula. he then went on the say they that even though research shows one 777 fert is better, people still wanted to use a 3 part formula and so they had to go that route in order to compete, but the fact is 777 with micros and trace elements is the best formula to use through out the grow.

I wish someone can find that link. I'd really like to read the article again.
I remember the first Lucas formula was GH MaxiGrow (10-5-14) for veg then MaxiBloom (5-15-14) for flowering.

After a while, the Lucas formula said to only use the MaxiBloom from start to finish.

I don't know what experiments were conducted to come to this conclusion, but it seems to agree with the Dynagro CEO
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
I and starting to see pm spots on upper leaves. I was wondering if I spray green cure along with possibly and spray like serenade would it hold me over till harvest. I like to harvest around day 67 to 77. I was also looking into sulphur burner but I've heard it can affect taste this late into flower. Any ideas what will work. I used green cleaner and it was shit
I don't know if you got your answer but this is what i tried with great results:
Hydrogen peroxide aka H202 -> I made a solution 5-6% and sprayed everything (buds/leafs/stems) and didn't wash or anything just left it that way (it turns to water and oxygen so no cleanup needed) - it cleared about 80-90% in 1 use.

My next suggestion would be Propiconazole + Cyproconazole fungicide - it works as well if the infection is larger and it has curative and preventive effect (I'm sorry if i didn't translate everything well because I'm not a native speaker)

PS I am licensed insecticide/fungicide user (in my country) but I am against such use as a PREVENTIVE option - but if you get a invasion of spider mites or thrips or some kind of mold its better to use it as little as possible to save your crop/operation than loose it. The problem with modern agriculture it they use everything PREVENTIVE and use it in abundance....
 

18B

Well-Known Member
First off...back to the ops original question about what to do?....SIMPLE....do NOTHING but control the pm with peroxide and water...finish the grow...and blast that shit...oil, wax, shatter whatever...bleach clean the entire room and surrounding areas...mold is from spores...treat subsequent plants with INFUSE Bonide during veg...it will be gone by flower...learn from your mistake and be better the next time.
 

CannaReview

Well-Known Member
Potassium Bicarbonate and a wetting agent preferably Yuka based one. If you don't have access go a wetting agent, a bit of unscented ivory dish soap.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Started using greenncure seems to be holding it off
it will prematurely brown your pistols on your buds if you are in earlier flower, but no worries. They will grow in like normal in the next 4-7 days or so. Green Cure is good stuff and should get you to the finish line.
 
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