QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
With IR its the same like with green. It's simply not needed!
IR is almost pure radiated heat and it does nothing else as to increase temps, leaf surface temps "and" stretch. Only because HPS has a huge amount of IR(~800-850nm) it means not its needed.
Yes, plants also use heat energy but the light itselfs has already enough stored energy. Light is energy and matter in the same time.
Remember, as soon as light hits a surface its get reflected but a huge part is also converted into heat (according to the color of the surface). IR does nothing else as to add more heat radiation to the spectrum.
We have switched to LED to reduce this wasted energy.

Imagine the following..
With HPS you need 25°C/50% RH to get an optimal leaf surface temperature. With LED you need 30°C/60% RH to get the same LST because there is no IR inside the LED spectrum. This means you need less power for active cooling, exaust fan and dehumidifier to keep your ambient in a good range.
When you add IR to an LED spectrum you would see the same effect as with HPS. LST is increased therefor you need to keep the temps down and you need probably more dehumidification to avoid bud rot and a bigger exaust fan for more gas exchange inside the tent.

It could maybe be used to heat up the tent a little faster and then switch it off. It takes an hour or so until the temps have stabilized. But I don't think it makes a measurable difference in yield to no IR.

An optimal growlight IMO would have 2 white spectrums, tunable from at least 5000-3000°k, an additional blue channel with 430 and 485nm to fill the up the missing blue wavelengths and a 2nd channel with red and deep-red to boost photosyntesis. It also need a separated far-red channel to add far-red over the day(emerson effect) and to use it for EoD treatments(night mode switch). And last but not least UVA and UVB depending on crop! Many plants have trichomes and profit from UV. Think on essential oils and plants like peppermint, basil and other herbs of medical use.
Each channel dimmable, even UV, and at best with a built in controller with spectrometer & display to have better control over the spectrum settings and to save the settings for later use. This way you can create different presets for different plants and plant stages. So in the end you could change the spectrum with just one click..
Beautiful new world..
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
With IR its the same like with green. It's simply not needed!
IR is almost pure radiated heat and it does nothing else as to increase temps, leaf surface temps "and" stretch. Only because HPS has a huge amount of IR(~800-850nm) it means not its needed.
Yes, plants also use heat energy but the light itselfs has already enough stored energy. Light is energy and matter in the same time.
Remember, as soon as light hits a surface its get reflected but a huge part is also converted into heat (according to the color of the surface). IR does nothing else as to add more heat radiation to the spectrum.
We have switched to LED to reduce this wasted energy.

Imagine the following..
With HPS you need 25°C/50% RH to get an optimal leaf surface temperature. With LED you need 30°C/60% RH to get the same LST because there is no IR inside the LED spectrum. This means you need less power for active cooling, exaust fan and dehumidifier to keep your ambient in a good range.
When you add IR to an LED spectrum you would see the same effect as with HPS. LST is increased therefor you need to keep the temps down and you need probably more dehumidification to avoid bud rot and a bigger exaust fan for more gas exchange inside the tent.

It could maybe be used to heat up the tent a little faster and then switch it off. It takes an hour or so until the temps have stabilized. But I don't think it makes a measurable difference in yield to no IR.

An optimal growlight IMO would have 2 white spectrums, tunable from at least 5000-3000°k, an additional blue channel with 430 and 485nm to fill the up the missing blue wavelengths and a 2nd channel with red and deep-red to boost photosyntesis. It also need a separated far-red channel to add far-red over the day(emerson effect) and to use it for EoD treatments(night mode switch). And last but not least UVA and UVB depending on crop! Many plants have trichomes and profit from UV. Think on essential oils and plants like peppermint, basil and other herbs of medical use.
Each channel dimmable, even UV, and at best with a built in controller with spectrometer & display to have better control over the spectrum settings and to save the settings for later use. This way you can create different presets for different plants and plant stages. So in the end you could change the spectrum with just one click..
Beautiful new world..
rb how bout you get a startup going, since it seems none of these light companies have a clue? ..:except for taking samsung/others diodes and putting them on a circuit board...

Maybe even a little customer service, too...if you know what i mean...
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
With IR its the same like with green. It's simply not needed!
IR is almost pure radiated heat and it does nothing else as to increase temps, leaf surface temps "and" stretch. Only because HPS has a huge amount of IR(~800-850nm) it means not its needed.
Yes, plants also use heat energy but the light itselfs has already enough stored energy. Light is energy and matter in the same time.
Remember, as soon as light hits a surface its get reflected but a huge part is also converted into heat (according to the color of the surface). IR does nothing else as to add more heat radiation to the spectrum.
We have switched to LED to reduce this wasted energy.

Imagine the following..
With HPS you need 25°C/50% RH to get an optimal leaf surface temperature. With LED you need 30°C/60% RH to get the same LST because there is no IR inside the LED spectrum. This means you need less power for active cooling, exaust fan and dehumidifier to keep your ambient in a good range.
When you add IR to an LED spectrum you would see the same effect as with HPS. LST is increased therefor you need to keep the temps down and you need probably more dehumidification to avoid bud rot and a bigger exaust fan for more gas exchange inside the tent.

It could maybe be used to heat up the tent a little faster and then switch it off. It takes an hour or so until the temps have stabilized. But I don't think it makes a measurable difference in yield to no IR.

An optimal growlight IMO would have 2 white spectrums, tunable from at least 5000-3000°k, an additional blue channel with 430 and 485nm to fill the up the missing blue wavelengths and a 2nd channel with red and deep-red to boost photosyntesis. It also need a separated far-red channel to add far-red over the day(emerson effect) and to use it for EoD treatments(night mode switch). And last but not least UVA and UVB depending on crop! Many plants have trichomes and profit from UV. Think on essential oils and plants like peppermint, basil and other herbs of medical use.
Each channel dimmable, even UV, and at best with a built in controller with spectrometer & display to have better control over the spectrum settings and to save the settings for later use. This way you can create different presets for different plants and plant stages. So in the end you could change the spectrum with just one click..
Beautiful new world..

sounds good when you taking orders? put me down for 10.:bigjoint:
 

grisbi

Well-Known Member
With IR its the same like with green. It's simply not needed!
IR is almost pure radiated heat and it does nothing else as to increase temps, leaf surface temps "and" stretch. Only because HPS has a huge amount of IR(~800-850nm) it means not its needed.
Yes, plants also use heat energy but the light itselfs has already enough stored energy. Light is energy and matter in the same time.
Remember, as soon as light hits a surface its get reflected but a huge part is also converted into heat (according to the color of the surface). IR does nothing else as to add more heat radiation to the spectrum.
We have switched to LED to reduce this wasted energy.

Imagine the following..
With HPS you need 25°C/50% RH to get an optimal leaf surface temperature. With LED you need 30°C/60% RH to get the same LST because there is no IR inside the LED spectrum. This means you need less power for active cooling, exaust fan and dehumidifier to keep your ambient in a good range.
When you add IR to an LED spectrum you would see the same effect as with HPS. LST is increased therefor you need to keep the temps down and you need probably more dehumidification to avoid bud rot and a bigger exaust fan for more gas exchange inside the tent.

It could maybe be used to heat up the tent a little faster and then switch it off. It takes an hour or so until the temps have stabilized. But I don't think it makes a measurable difference in yield to no IR.

An optimal growlight IMO would have 2 white spectrums, tunable from at least 5000-3000°k, an additional blue channel with 430 and 485nm to fill the up the missing blue wavelengths and a 2nd channel with red and deep-red to boost photosyntesis. It also need a separated far-red channel to add far-red over the day(emerson effect) and to use it for EoD treatments(night mode switch). And last but not least UVA and UVB depending on crop! Many plants have trichomes and profit from UV. Think on essential oils and plants like peppermint, basil and other herbs of medical use.
Each channel dimmable, even UV, and at best with a built in controller with spectrometer & display to have better control over the spectrum settings and to save the settings for later use. This way you can create different presets for different plants and plant stages. So in the end you could change the spectrum with just one click..
Beautiful new world..
look that
https://cirrusledgrowlights.com/why-infrared-is-important-when-growing-indoors/

im still have time to fix the perfect flower boost light mix ehencer on my strip and pcb, we will see, for the moment on good proportion : blue/660/730/ir
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
@Stephenj37826 @robincnn
@Stephenj37826

Received the replacement 96s and pads, thank you.

I will be sending the three defective 96s back as soon as i figure out how to use these new pads.

The pads have clear plastic on both sides. One of those clear sides is thicker and comes off easily, the other, thinner clear plastic side doesn’t seem to detach.

So, four questions:

1. Is the thinner clear plastic cover supposed to remain attached to the pad?

2. If it is supposed to remain attached, which side goes against the circuit board: plastic or pad?

3. If the thinner clear cover is supposed to be removed, how do you recommend that be done?

4. Why isn’t there a set of instructions regarding proper application of the pads included with the replacement pads?

I’d prefer not to have to changeout these pads again.....
Can you answer the questions please...
1. Is the thinner clear plastic cover supposed to remain attached to the pad?
NO
2. If it is supposed to remain attached, which side goes against the circuit board: plastic or pad?
NA
3. If the thinner clear cover is supposed to be removed, how do you recommend that be done?
Finger nails
4. Why isn’t there a set of instructions regarding proper application of the pads included with the replacement pads?
I updated the product page. Does this info help ?
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/qb96-elite-v2-quantum-board-engine

Thermal Pad
3M Acrylic Interface Pad 5590H OR Bergquist GAP PAD HC 3.0 is included.
Remove liner on one side of die cut thermal pad, align screw holes with board and apply pad to board, remove liner from the other side and install of heatsink.

Note: Thermal pad is Tacky and not adhesive. Board requires screws to ensure board is securely mounted to heatsink.





(White) 3M Acrylic Interface Pad 5590H

(Blue) Bergquist GAP PAD HC 3.0

 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
1. Is the thinner clear plastic cover supposed to remain attached to the pad?
NO
2. If it is supposed to remain attached, which side goes against the circuit board: plastic or pad?
NA
3. If the thinner clear cover is supposed to be removed, how do you recommend that be done?
Finger nails
4. Why isn’t there a set of instructions regarding proper application of the pads included with the replacement pads?
I updated the product page. Does this info help ?
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/qb96-elite-v2-quantum-board-engine

Thermal Pad
3M Acrylic Interface Pad 5590H OR Bergquist GAP PAD HC 3.0 is included.
Remove liner on one side of die cut thermal pad, align screw holes with board and apply pad to board, remove liner from the other side and install of heatsink.

Note: Thermal pad is Tacky and not adhesive. Board requires screws to ensure board is securely mounted to heatsink.





(White) 3M Acrylic Interface Pad 5590H

(Blue) Bergquist GAP PAD HC 3.0

Thank you so very much, especially for putting instructions on hlg website!
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
4x4, three 96s, ~650ppfd; 1 4’ agromax 75/25 uvb/a ~100uw/cm sq...20th day from cloner, just topoed for 4 mains yesterday...kickin some big bootay!

F772262B-5A3D-455E-A7F4-7AB249DCAD0F.jpeg

3C535DF9-113C-4A08-AFC7-935176C00317.jpeg
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
look that
https://cirrusledgrowlights.com/why-infrared-is-important-when-growing-indoors/

im still have time to fix the perfect flower boost light mix ehencer on my strip and pcb, we will see, for the moment on good proportion : blue/660/730/ir

Okay, wavelength above 700mA were former called infra red but since we have LED the 700-1000nm range is splitted in far-red(700-750nm, useful for growing) and infra-red(+750-1000nm, almost pure heat radiation, not useful for growing).
You have just mixed it up a bit.
Deep- and far-red means you hit PS-I and II and it drives the emerson effect!
Deep- and infra-red means you hit only PS-I, no emerson effect but much unwanted stretch because of the additional heat!

Infra-red diodes are available in 840 and 940nm and they are used in cameras or night vision devices. Believe me, you don't want them in your groom. Deep- and far-red is the way to go and the closer to 680 and 700nm the two wavelength are the higher the effect! In the end all wavelentgh gets converted into these two wavelength and the closer they are to these wavelength the less effort for the plant to convert it internally.

I would use 630, 660 and 730nm as flower boost and 430 and 485nm to fill up the blue range.
Think on the McCree curve..
downloadfile(1).jpg
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
4x4, three 96s, ~650ppfd; 1 4’ agromax 75/25 uvb/a ~100uw/cm sq...20th day from cloner, just topoed for 4 mains yesterday...kickin some big bootay!

View attachment 4272991

View attachment 4272992

Whenever I have issues with removing such plastic foils I'm using Tesa. Put a little piece of tesa tape on the corner of each plastic layer than pull the plastic foils off with the help of the tesa tape. Think on the screen protectors for smartphones, bro. They also have 2 films to peel off with the help of small tape strips. Works great!
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
Hello @yummy fur

That is a cool set up - very innovative, love it.

Have a great day.

Dan
Thanks Dan, just finished tweaking, and converting my 2 x 3 into a 2 x 4. The driver could also be mounted across the top.

Glad I used solid core wire for the boards, one of the boards was very difficult to put the wire in. I attached a little strain relief tab and then I have used a connector to attach a more flexible two core wire. This way I can thread the power cable through the roof. I'm pretty happy with these lights.

tab.jpg b.jpg
 

Attachments

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
rb how bout you get a startup going, since it seems none of these light companies have a clue? ..:except for taking samsung/others diodes and putting them on a circuit board...

Maybe even a little customer service, too...if you know what i mean...

Believe me, if I could, as I wanted, I would have long had my greencard or even my own US business. Unfortunately, your authorities do not let me in because of my f....' criminal record and there is simply no crazy enough woman who marries me old long haired hippie, lol!

There are a few commercial lights that allow spectral tuning but there are still far too few and they are based on 3 and 5w diodes and can not keep up with modern growlights like the fluence' spiderX or Amare's bar8.
The problem with such an elaborate light would not be the feasibility; the components are all available.
But the final price would probably be very high. We talk about +$3 per watt or so or 3000$ for a DE1000w replacement. For commercials that's maybe not a big issue. The fixture would literally last forever and the diodes are mounted on strips anyway so the fixture could be upgraded easily by just changing the strips against new ones.
But for us hobbiists such a growlight is simply too expensive.

Amara is on the right track IMO. The only thing missing are separated tunable channels and one or two more additional colors but the rest is pretty near to perfect in terms of design, durability, flexibility, aso.

If someone knows a way to leave my country to enter the states (and stay there), I'm here!
I would have done it rather yesterday than tomorrow, lol!
No country for old men..!?
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Whenever I have issues with removing such plastic foils I'm using Tesa. Put a little piece of tesa tape on the corner of each plastic layer than pull the plastic foils off with the help of the tesa tape. Think on the screen protectors for smartphones, bro. They also have 2 films to peel off with the help of small tape strips. Works great!
Thanks man!
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Thanks Dan, just finished tweaking, and converting my 2 x 3 into a 2 x 4. The driver could also be mounted across the top.

Glad I used solid core wire for the boards, one of the boards was very difficult to put the wire in. I attached a little strain relief tab and then I have used a connector to attach a more flexible two core wire. This way I can thread the power cable through the roof. I'm pretty happy with these lights.

View attachment 4273466 View attachment 4273470
Nice dude! Luv those silver subway tiles, too..
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Believe me, if I could, as I wanted, I would have long had my greencard or even my own US business. Unfortunately, your authorities do not let me in because of my f....' criminal record and there is simply no crazy enough woman who marries me old long haired hippie, lol!

There are a few commercial lights that allow spectral tuning but there are still far too few and they are based on 3 and 5w diodes and can not keep up with modern growlights like the fluence' spiderX or Amare's bar8.
The problem with such an elaborate light would not be the feasibility; the components are all available.
But the final price would probably be very high. We talk about +$3 per watt or so or 3000$ for a DE1000w replacement. For commercials that's maybe not a big issue. The fixture would literally last forever and the diodes are mounted on strips anyway so the fixture could be upgraded easily by just changing the strips against new ones.
But for us hobbiists such a growlight is simply too expensive.

Amara is on the right track IMO. The only thing missing are separated tunable channels and one or two more additional colors but the rest is pretty near to perfect in terms of design, durability, flexibility, aso.

If someone knows a way to leave my country to enter the states (and stay there), I'm here!
I would have done it rather yesterday than tomorrow, lol!
No country for old men..!?
You related to melania or the donald? Like way back in time? Lol

Maybe a controller company can come up with a good standalone plug-n-play led board controller to do the switching/dimming/tuning...it’s not friggin rocket science...and shouldn’t be outrageously expensive...enuff channels for qbs, supplemental blue, red, deep red, far red...
 
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grotbags

Well-Known Member
Believe me, if I could, as I wanted, I would have long had my greencard or even my own US business. Unfortunately, your authorities do not let me in because of my f....' criminal record and there is simply no crazy enough woman who marries me old long haired hippie, lol!
hey man its 2019 you dont have to marry a woman haha, anyone on here in the states fancy taking one for the team!!! lol
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
You related to melania or the donald? Like way back in time? Lol

Maybe a controller company can come up with a good standalone plug-n-play led board controller to do the switching/dimming/tuning...it’s not friggin rocket science...and shouldn’t be outrageously expensive...enuff channels for qbs, supplemental blue, red, deep red, far red...
quick question would there be any benefit to keeping the red and deep red on separate channels? obv not talking about far red.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
quick question would there be any benefit to keeping the red and deep red on separate channels? obv not talking about far red.
So you can vary the relative amounts, which does matter....i think this has been discussed on the far red thread...
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
Question on setting an A type driver. I want to run the 96Elite at 1/2 power, so I set the current to minimum which should be a maximum draw of 1.75A (50%) since it's rated at 3.45A and I put the Voltage pot to minimum then I kept increasing the volts till it looked like it was as bright as it was going to get. I check the volts and it was reading 50.35V which if I multiply by 1.75 gives me 88W so that seems about right.

Then I set the other one up by putting the current pot at maximum and then setting the voltage to be as close to 50.35V as I could (which turned out to be 50.2V)

Is there any difference between these two methods?



Nice dude! Luv those silver subway tiles, too..
I know right, they come folded down into this tiny piece. Usually I don't like plain mirror finish but the multi facets all catch the light on the edges and create a bunch of almost point light sources. And the other side is a gold colour if you want to warm the lights up a bit, or just because of the bling.

Just invented a self supporting scrog mod. The sticks exert enough tension to support the mesh.

scrog-mod.jpg
 
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