R00T Pr0n

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
I though I'd share a little follow up on cloning with the Clone King cloners that I posted to my journal. (many in this section may find it useful and otherwise wouldn't see it)

On the cloning front. I believe I have finally cracked the code for running an aero cloner 24/7 with no cloning solutions, Clear Rez, Peroxide, Pool Shock, or any other BS...

What I have done is set up a InkBird Aquarium thermostat with the temp probe stuck in the res of the aero cloner. When the temp hits the set point and activates the cooling output it energizes a 120V solenoid valve hooked into my filtered tap water source and allows fresh cool water to flow into the cloner.
I have placed a 3/4" elbow drain fitting into the side of the cloner at a height to maintain the water level just below the spray bar.
So far this is working out absolutely beautiful and producing clones like gang busters for nothing more than the cost of some tap water! :hump:

I have also found that even with only 2 T5 lamps turned on in the proximity to my clones, it is too much light and yellows them out too quick. So I made up a Shade screen out of a scrap of heavy duty "pet screen" and it gave right at a 50% intensity reduction.

IMG_7065.jpg61722459735__22BE9C60-1513-45F4-AC30-49D7C5E4365B.jpgIMG_7075.jpgIMG_7073.jpgIMG_7072.jpg
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
I though I'd share a little follow up on cloning with the Clone King cloners that I posted to my journal. (many in this section may find it useful and otherwise wouldn't see it)
Do you have a link to that journal. I searched for it, but couldn't find it.

On the cloning front. I believe I have finally cracked the code for running an aero cloner 24/7 with no cloning solutions,
Nice that it works out so well.
What is the temperature that you want to maintain?

I have also found that even with only 2 T5 lamps turned on in the proximity to my clones, it is too much light and yellows them out too quick. So I made up a Shade screen out of a scrap of heavy duty "pet screen" and it gave right at a 50% intensity reduction.
If you have 2 lights, why don't you switch off 1 and also get a 50% intensity reduction?
 
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OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Nice that it works out so well.
What is the temperature that you want to maintain?


If you have 2 lights, why don't you switch off 1 and also get a 50% intensity reduction?
Temp is debatable but 75 working well
2 lamps gives a more even coverage on the shelf of the rack and the cloners don't take up the whole rack so the side without the cloners get a higher light level for post cloner establishment, seed starting, etc

Also, a single lamp that close to the plants has proven to be too much spot intensity in my experience :peace:
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
Great looking roots!
And so many. That is why I asked.

Do you perhaps know what the temperature of your water is?
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
It changes all the time. I'm on the So Cal coast , it's whatever the ambient temperature is.
You didn't prune those with scissors?
It is interesting. I was never able to get those bushy short roots in the Clone King as I had pictured above.
I guess it could also be that I was rooting old clone strains rather than what appears to be seed grown mother stock in your last pic?
:peace:
 

BobBitchen

Well-Known Member
You didn't prune those with scissors?
It is interesting. I was never able to get those bushy short roots in the Clone King as I had pictured above.
I guess it could also be that I was rooting old clone strains rather than what appears to be seed grown mother stock in your last pic?
:peace:
I'm not sure what you are referring to, pruning what with scissors?
IMHO, a clone is a clone, no matter how old the mother is, I've had similar results with 6yr old mothers
 

Munchling

Active Member
It changes all the time. I'm on the So Cal coast , it's whatever the ambient temperature is.
I always had problem with cloning. Can you elaborate a bit and give extra information about your system? Do you monitor the ambient temp? What about the humidity? Do you use humidity dome? How much ph is your tap water is it soft or hard water? You get great results that I wish to replicate.
 
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Wastei

Well-Known Member
I always had problem with cloning. Can you elaborate a bit and give extra information about your system? Do you monitor the ambient temp? What about the humidity? Do you use humidity dome? How much ph is your tap water is it soft or hard water? You get great results that I wish to replicate.
You don't need dome and misting with aero/dwc clones. Tap water with cloramine is all he uses. Think he uses something called "Clone king", a LPA cloner.

Cloning should be the least time consuming thing about growing. I use a simple DWC style cloner with a few drops of bloom nutes and chlorine/bleach.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Do you use any root inoculants in DWC? If you do I suggest you stop adding any living cultures to the reservoir. It will hinder the plant to keep on developing new roots because it think it's already being feed by the fungal/bacterial cultures instead of directly uptake nutrients through the root membrane.

From my experience it's much more important to have a clean rootzone for optimal root development than adding any myco or living products. They work against each other and go against basic principles in hydro IMO. I know people will disagree on this but it's my observations and personal opinion.
I don't necessarily disagree. I used hydroguard in dwc and my root ball was the same size as the bucket they were in. I'd be less skeptical if you had some data to back up your statement. Again, not saying its not true or that you're not right. It's kinda like the whole faith thing... lol:p
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
I don't necessarily disagree. I used hydroguard in dwc and my root ball was the same size as the bucket they were in. I'd be less skeptical if you had some data to back up your statement. Again, not saying its not true or that you're not right. It's kinda like the whole faith thing... lol:p
Just anecdotal. Manufacturers are good at marketing soil products for hydroponics. Why people spend money on inoculants when there's nothing to inoculate is beyond me? You just combating bad bacteria culture with "good one".

Hydroponic nutrients is already in readily available form. You don't need bacteria culture as a carrier. Sure people have great results either way, but again not needed and will leave you with more work in the long run.

I don't want to spend time removing algae growth and biofilm between runs. I don't want to use enzymes in a controlled environment, I use an oxidizer instead. I hate dirty, algae stained roots, biofilm should not exist in any hydroponic system.

I just say it's not needed an goes against basic hydroponic principles IMO. You remove as many variables as possible to create optimal pH stability and surface tension. I dont want any living cultures deciding and affecting pH stability and surface tension.
 

BobBitchen

Well-Known Member
I always had problem with cloning. Can you elaborate a bit and give extra information about your system? Do you monitor the ambient temp? What about the humidity? Do you use humidity dome? How much ph is your tap water is it soft or hard water? You get great results that I wish to replicate.
No secret sauce. IMHO, a healthy mother plant/donor is 90% of the game, the other 10% is patience.
A dome on an aero is not recommended , nor should you need to mist, cut leaves, ect.
I haven't PH'ed in a few years, but I believe my PH is/was around 8+, with PPM @ 800+, but PH shouldn't matter because they are not feeding.
Also as mentioned above I use a clone king cloner (recommended ) & plain tap water with no additives, just as grandma used to place a cutting in a glass of water on the window sill. I don't monitor my water temps, they run with my ambient air temps. I believe 76° to be the sweet spot, but not essential.
IMHO, most cloning problems come from people wanting to mess with the process.
I have in the past used KLN & pro tekt @ 5mil per 3 gal rez with success but found for me, it wasn't needed. I also see a lot of people using pool shock, I have no experience with it.
Just how I do it, YMMV.

good luck.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Just anecdotal. Manufacturers are good at marketing soil products for hydroponics. Why people spend money on inoculants when there's nothing to inoculate is beyond me? You just combating bad bacteria culture with "good one".

Hydroponic nutrients is already in readily available form. You don't need bacteria culture as a carrier. Sure people have great results either way, but again not needed and will leave you with more work in the long run.

I don't want to spend time removing algae growth and biofilm between runs. I don't want to use enzymes in a controlled environment, I use an oxidizer instead. I hate dirty, algae stained roots, biofilm should not exist in any hydroponic system.

I just say it's not needed an goes against basic hydroponic principles IMO. You remove as many variables as possible to create optimal pH stability and surface tension. I dont want any living cultures deciding and affecting pH stability and surface tension.
Ok. What you say makes complete sense. I run hydroguard as a preventative. I feel chlorine and h2o2 are too strong. I know it can be done... it's just that hydroguard worked for me. I know what you mean about the biofilm though. I do deal with it.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Ok. What you say makes complete sense. I run hydroguard as a preventative. I feel chlorine and h2o2 are too strong. I know it can be done... it's just that hydroguard worked for me. I know what you mean about the biofilm though. I do deal with it.
Many ways to the finish line. That's what's so damn interesting about this hobby. Chlorine is a weaker oxidizer than you think. Safe range is typically between 0.5-5ppm. I've seen some guys go as high 10ppm to treat root rot.

That's over 20x the effective dosage. Just to give you some perspective.
 
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