Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
thanks for the feedback, my bone meal doesn't say fish but its 3-15-0 should i still be adding in fish bone meal? and rock dusts..i have gypsum and rock phosphate...so you mean azomite and basalt etc? best place to pick those up..or at the hydro store?

thanks again
I believe a fish hydrosylate will accomplish this for you.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
the knowledge being shared on this thread can put to shame most master gardeners! thanks everyone for sharing.

Ive got 3 more SIP builts on the go, the first I built (thanks to hyroot) is almost ready to harvest and so far it looks really amazing, I top dressed the soil with a bunch of freshly harvested comfrey leaves before I covered the soil with a garbage bag the same day I transplanted and flip to 12/12.

Next time I ll try a top dress of shredded comfrey mixed with crushed oyster shell, organic hay, horse shit, and lots of worms. There was a lot of food/supersoil in the prototype run and I am really stoked to see the plants (2) have totally used it all up and are starting to fade nicely.
Watch the horse poop and make sure it didn't come from a place that used a wormer on the horses. It will kill your worms.
 
Last edited:

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
E
On these forums the thought of Bokashi is quickly associated with EM-1. EM-1 is a super-strong bacterial mix I guess (?), yet it won't last in the environment once you get it home. It won't re-generate well. Why is that, I wonder?

Beneficial Indigenous Microbes
Em1 regenerates reaaaaaaaally efficiently. And EMextended, almost as well. I've made 50gal drums of bokashi with EMextended and it fermented for months, froze over for months, and in spring it came back with an explosion of sweet smelling white molds. In fact, i used the sumpy bottom of the drum and mixed it with peat moss, pailed it, sealed, refermented i, and its back to white mold beautiness. Its been about a year since i made the oeiginal drum size batch.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
It is true. With many variables. While older worm medicines have been shown safe that is only after it has time to sit before use. 7-10 days. If you use it before that you can kill your herd.

The studies that show it safe to use medicated manure in organic farming are for older medicines. Studies are not conclusive for newer medicines.

On the subject of antibiotics it has been shown in studies that 92-99% of the antibiotics will be broken down during composting.

For you to say not true is, well, untrue.

That the reason I said be careful if getting manure from stables and inquire about which wormer is used


Maybe you are ok with trace amounts of those chemicals. I am not and depending on what is used can in fact harm your herd.

I will say using it that fresh will cause other problems like ammonia volatilization.
 
Last edited:

MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
Hello super smart peoples! So grateful for this thread, and a few others that I jumped into because of all this great knowledge here. I've been reading alot the past few days and am starting to incorporate aloe, coconut, and SST's into my garden. Before this season I purchased a very nice housemade soil from the local nursery consisting of the following amendments:

Certified Organic Dairy Manure
Aged Forest Humus
Promix HP
Coco Coir
Perlite
Nitrogen Worm Castings
Dolomite
Oyster Shell Lime
Nitrogen Bat Guano
Humic Acid
Mycorrhizae
Peat Moss.

So far to my understanding if I amend after the season with Pumice, EWC, more compost, glacial rock dust, and a mix of crap, shrimp, alfalfa, Neem, kelp, and fish bone meal, than my pots will be no till? I have quite a bit 100 gallon pots so I really would like to not mess this up. Plus I have time to learn as much as possible. Thanks fellow nerds! It's been hard to sleep these last few nights with this excitement from these pages.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
I said not true simply because I have many friends with horses, all de-worm, all have shit tons of red wigglers in their piles. I would prefer if they didnt use de-wormer, but I have a new rule for gardening, if worms like it, plants will...
For me. it isn't the de-wormers so much as herbicides.

A local grower, known to me, used aged horse manure from his fathers horses and was aware of all medications the horses received. What he wasn't aware of was the weed&feed his dad had treated the pasture with. Went through the horse Ok, composted for a year+, went into the worm bin with no ill effects to the worms. Castings used in mix and applied to garden plants and hell broke loose. Deformed dying plants with no apparent cause. MUCH back checking and research showed that the herbicide in the W&F survived the horse, composting, and the worm bin to do damage well over a year later. Just did not break down, or, break down very much in all that time and exposure.

What really got him was that the worms absolutely loved the manure and thrived in it. The plants, not so much.

Wet
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Because she speaks the truth! She is super direct and can be insulting, but the work she has done researching soil microbiology.... awesome!
Yeah that and gathering all the very specific research together to give us a complete picture AND a handle on how to put all that theory into practice :D
 

CaptainCAVEMAN

Well-Known Member
Hello super smart peoples! So grateful for this thread, and a few others that I jumped into because of all this great knowledge here. I've been reading alot the past few days and am starting to incorporate aloe, coconut, and SST's into my garden. Before this season I purchased a very nice housemade soil from the local nursery consisting of the following amendments:

Certified Organic Dairy Manure
Aged Forest Humus
Promix HP
Coco Coir
Perlite
Nitrogen Worm Castings
Dolomite
Oyster Shell Lime
Nitrogen Bat Guano
Humic Acid
Mycorrhizae
Peat Moss.

So far to my understanding if I amend after the season with Pumice, EWC, more compost, glacial rock dust, and a mix of crap, shrimp, alfalfa, Neem, kelp, and fish bone meal, than my pots will be no till? I have quite a bit 100 gallon pots so I really would like to not mess this up. Plus I have time to learn as much as possible. Thanks fellow nerds! It's been hard to sleep these last few nights with this excitement from these pages.
Yes.
 

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
For me. it isn't the de-wormers so much as herbicides.

A local grower, known to me, used aged horse manure from his fathers horses and was aware of all medications the horses received. What he wasn't aware of was the weed&feed his dad had treated the pasture with. Went through the horse Ok, composted for a year+, went into the worm bin with no ill effects to the worms. Castings used in mix and applied to garden plants and hell broke loose. Deformed dying plants with no apparent cause. MUCH back checking and research showed that the herbicide in the W&F survived the horse, composting, and the worm bin to do damage well over a year later. Just did not break down, or, break down very much in all that time and exposure.

What really got him was that the worms absolutely loved the manure and thrived in it. The plants, not so much.

Wet
This story just goes to show diligence uncovered truth
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Ar
Hello super smart peoples! So grateful for this thread, and a few others that I jumped into because of all this great knowledge here. I've been reading alot the past few days and am starting to incorporate aloe, coconut, and SST's into my garden. Before this season I purchased a very nice housemade soil from the local nursery consisting of the following amendments:

Certified Organic Dairy Manure
Aged Forest Humus
Promix HP
Coco Coir
Perlite
Nitrogen Worm Castings
Dolomite
Oyster Shell Lime
Nitrogen Bat Guano
Humic Acid
Mycorrhizae
Peat Moss.

So far to my understanding if I amend after the season with Pumice, EWC, more compost, glacial rock dust, and a mix of crap, shrimp, alfalfa, Neem, kelp, and fish bone meal, than my pots will be no till? I have quite a bit 100 gallon pots so I really would like to not mess this up. Plus I have time to learn as much as possible. Thanks fellow nerds! It's been hard to sleep these last few nights with this excitement from these pages.
You planting cannabis again in this container? Most people doing no till do monocrops, which is really bad for your soil. For instance, a few weeks ago a guy was.wondering why his roots had nodules. And that he grows in this same spot using the same recipe.over and over woth great success until now. What he had was a fungal infection from monocropping. What you do to prevent this and other problems from insects and such is to plant a legume every other, or every third plant ooooor to not follow up with another crop of cannabis but any other plant family.


But your mix seems good. Just plant something you like to eat for a season. Put in a second set of beds if you really have to grow cannabis every season. No till is ok but shouldny be monocropped. The only you can monocrop is with hydro or using brand new soil. So really they didnt monocrop.

Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
I am hoping someone can clear up a little confusion for me with the SSTs. I know that I discard the water after the initial soak. I am wondering if I save the water from the 2nd soak and use that water when I blend the sprouted seeds. Or do I simply dump the 2nd soaks water too and then blend with fresh water. I will be starting my first SST today with wheatgrass and I'm super excited to see the affects on my ladies.



Thanks Friends!
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I am hoping someone can clear up a little confusion for me with the SSTs. I know that I discard the water after the initial soak. I am wondering if I save the water from the 2nd soak and use that water when I blend the sprouted seeds. Or do I simply dump the 2nd soaks water too and then blend with fresh water. I will be starting my first SST today with wheatgrass and I'm super excited to see the affects on my ladies.



Thanks Friends!
Keep dumping. And blend with fresh water That water the seeds soak in becomes a growth inhibitor
 
Top