Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

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Does this look rite..my last batch of lacto was looking a bit more yellow. This one smells fine but I was just wondering about the color??
 


    • Okay Fellows...

      Check out these ladies dressed in green and yellow, with sparkling trichomes which makes me mellow...

      MY modified ROLS Blue Cheese 1gal pots in PHOGS, 24 inch tall plants, with about 8 to 10 inches of foliage on top for flowering
      32 days into flowering about another 4 weeks to go...



      DankSwag
    ​




 
Hey guys great thread. I have been Growing using subs super soil for 2 years now with good results. I just came across this thread and I am very intrigued. I'm not looking for a spoon feeding since I know a little about organics. Okay here is my question, when you mix this mix for the first time there is no amendments on top it is mixed into the soil like a super soil then after each grow you simply cut the plant at base dig new hole and plant another in the same pot, and then add your amendments to the top of the pot. Did i forget or misunderstood anything?
 
I just read in this thread people are amending their soil with lyme? Isn't an ideal soil PH 6.5? Most soils naturally want to be at a 7 PH so wouldn't adding lyme increase the PH above 7 creating lockout? I've been adding Espoma Acidifier to keep my PH below 6.8.
 
Some amendments incorporated into a soil mix such as blood meal and guano/manure will lower pH so lime is used to buffer against this as well as provide calcium and magnesium.
 
farsb said:
Hey guys great thread. I have been Growing using subs super soil for 2 years now with good results. I just came across this thread and I am very intrigued. I'm not looking for a spoon feeding since I know a little about organics. Okay here is my question, when you mix this mix for the first time there is no amendments on top it is mixed into the soil like a super soil then after each grow you simply cut the plant at base dig new hole and plant another in the same pot, and then add your amendments to the top of the pot. Did i forget or misunderstood anything?
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You got it. I like to scratch in some dry amendments and then cover that with a layer of vermicompost. I will then throw down some clover seeds as a cover crop which will fix atmospheric nitrogen. When you plug a new clone in there, you can just chop and drop the clover as it starts to get shaded out by your mj plant. The clover makes for a nice mulch.
 
farsb said:
Great info stow I appreciate it. Can I use my used super soil for the start and reammend?
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Absolutely! I usually add about half of the ammendments by volume of what I otherwise started out with when re-using the soil. You can always go light with it and top-dress further in to flower if you feel you need it. To me, a good source of compost layed down on the top is the key. I add quite a bit of minerals/rock dusts when I first build the soil so I don't add any more when re-ammending ..... so depending on how much you initially added you may or may not need to add more. You're gonna love the results. The soil seems to just keep getting better as you recycle it.
 
hyroot said:
bti doesn't work for shit. Just topdress with worm castings and compost. Gnats will be gone within a week.
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WHAT?! My black gold top dressed with crab shell, neem, etc didn't do anything to those annoying effers. Top dressed a quarter chunk of the dunk and made a tea out of the other three quarters and they were done. They fly everywhere after the tea, so I put stickies on top of pots. BTIs absolutely work.
 
RedCarpetMatches said:
WHAT?! My black gold top dressed with crab shell, neem, etc didn't do anything to those annoying effers. Top dressed a quarter chunk of the dunk and made a tea out of the other three quarters and they were done. They fly everywhere after the tea, so I put stickies on top of pots. BTIs absolutely work.
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well california gnats are immune to bti. It never ever worked for me. topdressing with compost and worm castings had the best results. plus bennies and nutes
 
hyroot said:
well caliornia gnats are immune to bti. It never ever worked for me. topdressing with compost and worm castings had the best results. plus bennies and nutes
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I wish the VC/CT worked for me. Woulda saved me 7$ on dunks. I was a little flustered, with all the chitin and VC in my soil, only to have those SOBs gnawing on my roots.
 
I can't stand when those cocky bastards swarm you like it's there turf. I've knocked over solos, bumped my head on filters, burned myself on bulbs...all while swatting or chasing the damn things. I despise them so much, I smoke there dead bodies!
 
RedCarpetMatches said:
I can't stand when those cocky bastards swarm you like it's there turf. I've knocked over solos, bumped my head on filters, burned myself on bulbs...all while swatting or chasing the damn things. I despise them so much, I smoke there dead bodies!
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to me the worst is when you have spider mites and webs. Yet there is zero damage to the plant since they have strong genetics. The spider mites wont leave regardless of what you use.. except for lady bugs. its just annoying... to deal with. not as frustrating as them eating your plants. I think I'm going to add a venus fly trap for the the crickets. I see one at least twice a week. My cat sometimes kills the crickets.....
 
RedCarpetMatches said:
I can't stand when those cocky bastards swarm you like it's there turf. I've knocked over solos, bumped my head on filters, burned myself on bulbs...all while swatting or chasing the damn things. I despise them so much, I smoke there dead bodies!
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LOL! I feel ya. I've wasted hours of my life swatting at those effers.

BTI dunks work like a charm for me too. I sprinkle some of the bits on my soil, lay out a few sticky traps and they're toast within a week or two.
 
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