rootbound = better buds???

Darth Budder said:
In pots or the ground? Have you tried it?
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the rootbound ones in pots.

every year, i have a few charity plants out there in 5g buckets that always mature faster than the same strain in the ground.

and this year, my first run of light dep plants in smaller containers has matured faster than my second run in larger containers. the larger containers have larger flowers, but not as quick to mature.
 
If you are trying to increase THC production or trichome production you are best served IMHO by increasing UVb to your plants. This is the light wavelength associated with trichome productions in plants. Here is some input but if you google or other search engine on this subject there are many studies that have been done on this subject.

Ultraviolet lightis a wavelength of the light spectrum that is shorter than that of visiblelight. UV is on the far end of the violet part of the color spectrum, hence thename ultraviolet. Although humans are unable to see UV light we are aware ofits existence and its effects. Sunburn is the most common result of UV lightdirectly effecting humans, and once you’ve had a good sunburn there is no needfor additional convincing that the rays are real. To block this harmfulelectromagnetic radiation, we put on sunscreen or find a way to shade ourselveson sunny days. Medical marijuana plant’s process the different types of UVlight in different ways, including producing their own sort of sunscreen intrichomes. Let's examine the different types of UV light and their directeffects on plants.
UV-A is the long wave UV light—most commonly seen in ablack-light. Its primary effect on plant growth comes at a hormonal level. Thiswavelength will eliminate or limit certain hormones within the plant, effectingthe plant’s growth. Over millions of years, plants have created a synergisticrelationship with their hormones and UV light. UV-A wavelengths can effect thestructural growth in plants due to the hormones it helps to regulate.
UV-B light is the medium UV wavelength. This wavelength willeffect trichome production in medical marijuana the most. A medical marijuanaplant will create trichomes to protect itself from the would-be harmful rays ofUV-B.
Trichomes are mostly made up of water, which acts as an absorber of the UV-Bradiation. It also contains the majority of cannabinoids, found in a medicalmarijuana plant, including THC, CBN and CBD. In other words, the more trichomesa plant produces, the more cannabinoids (medicine) in the plant.
Many gardeners add UV-B specific bulbs to their indoor gardens to maximizetrichome production. You can purchase UV-B bulbs at any pet shop where they areused for keeping reptiles. Another way to ensure your indoor garden has enoughUV-B is to use metal halide bulbs in your blooming room because they naturallyhave a higher UV light output than high pressure sodium bulbs.
UV-C is the short wave UV wavelength. This frequency can causeadverse effects on plant growth. Receiving an abundance of UV-C light willcause severe radiation poisoning resulting in deformed growth, color loss oreven death.
As biological creatures are concerned, UV light can be good or bad. I believemoderation is key when supplementing UV light in your indoor garden. If youwant to add UV-B specific bulbs, I recommend supplying around 1/10th of thewattage in your garden. For example, if you have a 1000 watt flowering room,add 100 watts of UV-B. Another rule of thumb is to run 1/3rd of your bloomingwatts in metal halide. For example, in a 3000 watt bloom room, have 1000 wattsmetal halide and the remaining 2000 watts high pressure sodium. By addingadditional UV-B light,t you should see an increase in essential oil productionand, in turn, an increase in potency of your medical marijuana.
Not my writing and the author I don't have their name but this goes along with many other studies.
 
i was about to post a thread about the nail in the stem.. not trying to hijack a thread but is this true on buds getting fuller and frostier ???
ilikecheetoes said:
nah it doesnt work. But what does is extremely high P and K, a nail through the stems and flushing your plants for 2 weeks.
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Back to the nails topic... uncle ben recommends a book by mel frank that claims some growers will put nails in their soil for added trace elements. I think iron was the main thing
 
Dboi87 said:
Back to the nails topic... uncle ben recommends a book by mel frank that claims some growers will put nails in their soil for added trace elements. I think iron was the main thing
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Proper root production is key, if you keep them healthy and happy they can be crowded, knowledge is key though. Things happen quickly in a smaller container so watch out. As for better bud or quality...naw sorry. Uncle Ben is not a person to listen to. Good Luck
 
I've ran clones in smaller pots alongside cuttings from the same mother in larger pots- it caused the ones in smaller pots to lower/finish more quickly at the cost of a little yield. Density was the same, if not worse, from the cuttings in small pots. I tried to keep all other factors of the grow as similar as possible.
 
Never want a root bound plant it will stunt growth and if that happens then you might as well start over with bigger pots
 
I have run tests on this topic, and have found that the rate of moisture requirements go up as well as nutrient uptake. If you are going to grow with this style, use low ppm's to avoid salt buildup as the medium dries out very quickly, and foliar feed often. If the technique is locked down for the specific strain,( ppm, ec , ph , temp , co2 and lighting) one can get huge results in very little time. That paired with a little bit of photo period tweaking can do amazing things indoors. Outdoors I prefer the Earth.
 
i agree. In my eyes what your aiming for in a small pot is more air uptake which is a big rootball in a small pot, making it hard to overwater and fast to re-water. The inbetween is the air ratio you want for the best growth and in SOG systems it's what you want.
with a big pot there are more times where the root mass is overwatered and you water less, which is easier but what i think that it comes down to is watering more. Which means higher PPM's like said above..

Not against people keeping it simple as i think it would be a pain in the ass to water a bunch of pots without some sort of system
 
The more the root and foliage mass the more the production. Simple botany.

Growers can claim what they want. Doesn't mean it's correct. Witness this forum.......

UB
 
UncleBuck said:
but in all seriousness, i have noticed my "rootbound" outdoor plants mature much faster than the ones with unlimited soil.

i know an outdoor grower who does swear by ceasing/limiting waterings toward harvest time and whose results are not matched by any grower i've seen on RIU.

i can only speak from my own experiences though.
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i would think that not watering for a few days would help if grown in soil outdoors. Wouldn't the roots keep growing in search of water making a bigger root system? Bigger roots= bigger buds??
 
Uncle Ben said:
The more the root and foliage mass the more the production. Simple botany.

Growers can claim what they want. Doesn't mean it's correct. Witness this forum.......

UB
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bigger does not mean better, and better was the question posed.

i know i'll take a smaller amount of perfectly finished bugs over some gigantic glop of leafy, airy bud.
 
UncleBuck said:
bigger does not mean better, and better was the question posed.
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I never said "bigger". :dunce:

It's obvious you have never grown a pure sativa. Great high, you should "attempt" it sometime rather than sucking up to mutt pollen chuckers who prey on sucker bets.

UB
 
Nizza said:
with a big pot there are more times where the root mass is overwatered and you water less, which is easier but what i think that it comes down to is watering more.
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True, also depends on factors like root mass, foliage mass and of course air movement, temps and RH. I've said this before, if you have a robust root mass with plenty of foliage which will wick off excess soil moisture, it is almost impossible to over water a plant. Where folks get into trouble regarding their root rot problems is not having the knowledge to grow a healthy vigorous plant in the first place.

The following plants wick off an incredible amount of soil moisture such that I had to water the 5 gal. pots twice a day with a qt. of water each time. I would often add clay powder to my pots in order to tighten up the soil and cut down on maintenance.

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UB
 

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if you want harder nuggets i suggest Hempy's, ever since i started growing hempy my nugs have been nice and full and a small one breaks out to a bowl, insead of smushing a fat fluffy nugget into it. Soil to me is very rapid and hempy's slower, with a denser product. Genetics, light intensity, air movement, training and co2 avail all have to do with how dense your buds are going to get.
In my opinion though, forcing may give you problems and you should focus on the other things for now, then come back and try a run out with your usual vegitative times and try a few different pot sizes, and compare yield vs square footage.
 
Uncle Ben said:
True, also depends on factors like root mass, foliage mass and of course air movement, temps and RH. I've said this before, if you have a robust root mass with plenty of foliage which will wick off excess soil moisture, it is almost impossible to over water a plant. Where folks get into trouble regarding their root rot problems is not having the knowledge to grow a healthy vigorous plant in the first place.

The following plants wick off an incredible amount of soil moisture such that I had to water the 5 gal. pots twice a day with a qt. of water each time. I would often add clay powder to my pots in order to tighten up the soil and cut down on maintenance.

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UB
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I hope one day I grow a plant that looks like that
 
As long as your plant isn't root bound before the plant quits producin new roots,it will finish its life cycle without ill effects on flower production. Around 3 weeks into flower for indicas and 4+ w/ sativa dominant and 6+ for pure sativas<<<<<This isnt backed information from any University study but mere personal observations made with strains I have experimented with. As a whole, there are absolutely no benefits from allowing your plant to become root bound and not removing the old spun out roots. If your roots spin-out the old roots encircling the mass will "strangle" the mass making nutrient uptake a lot more difficult. However if your plant does become rootbound you can remove the old spun out roots and new healthy roots will develop.UB, does RM3 still have his site going? Could you pm me a link please if so?
 
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