Rurumo's HLG 650R Grow Journal

Hobbes

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
.

Hey Rurumo

I'm running a Scorpion Diablo, It's probably very close to your light.

I have a couple of questions about light height above the canopy and % power on the dimmer.

Last grow I dial'd up to 90% and the top colas were inches below the light. All of my leaves burned off, except the sugar leaves, colas were great. Great harvest 1230 grams with 4 plants under 600 watts.

This grow my canopy is 12" below the light and the leaves seem to be growing ok. Again set on 90% power.

Questions:

1. What height should I keep my light above the canopy? I imagine this is as well a function of light power %.

2. What % power are you keeping your light? What if all the room you have is 12 between light and canopy? What power then?

Thanks!

.
 
NorwayFTW

NorwayFTW

Active Member
Hobbes said:
.

Hey Rurumo

I'm running a Scorpion Diablo, It's probably very close to your light.

I have a couple of questions about light height above the canopy and % power on the dimmer.

Last grow I dial'd up to 90% and the top colas were inches below the light. All of my leaves burned off, except the sugar leaves, colas were great. Great harvest 1230 grams with 4 plants under 600 watts.

This grow my canopy is 12" below the light and the leaves seem to be growing ok. Again set on 90% power.

Questions:

1. What height should I keep my light above the canopy? I imagine this is as well a function of light power %.

2. What % power are you keeping your light? What if all the room you have is 12 between light and canopy? What power then?

Thanks!

.
Click to expand...

there are a ton of tests of the Diablo on youtube
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Hobbes said:
.

Hey Rurumo

I'm running a Scorpion Diablo, It's probably very close to your light.

I have a couple of questions about light height above the canopy and % power on the dimmer.

Last grow I dial'd up to 90% and the top colas were inches below the light. All of my leaves burned off, except the sugar leaves, colas were great. Great harvest 1230 grams with 4 plants under 600 watts.

This grow my canopy is 12" below the light and the leaves seem to be growing ok. Again set on 90% power.

Questions:

1. What height should I keep my light above the canopy? I imagine this is as well a function of light power %.

2. What % power are you keeping your light? What if all the room you have is 12 between light and canopy? What power then?

Thanks!

.
Click to expand...
I think you can get away with a Diablo being closer to the canopy, since the diodes are more spread out-it reminds me more of how you use a bar light, vs more like an HPS/MH, which remind me a bit of my 650R's footprint. I always push my plants until I see some light bleaching on leaves when I test out a new light, and then take note of the % and distance to the bleaching, and I like to do that with multiple strains because some can take more light than others (this also changes within a "strain" depending on genotype.)

It's hard to dial in distance because in a general sense, more light=bigger yields....and that holds true even past the point you start seeing damage at the top of the canopy. And the other funny thing I've noticed, which you also mentioned, is that the leaves get damaged first (and worse) than the buds themselves. My biggest yield ever had significant light bleaching at the very top of the canopy (but really nice buds.)

I don't care about yields except for the self-competition part where sometimes I want to see how much I can push yield using new things that I've learned, so I've been keeping my lights at 80%, which works great for bar lights. If you are seeing bleaching at 90% and 12 inches, maybe cut it to 80% and raise it up to 20 inches (as a starting point in 12/12) and see how they do for a week or so, then start lowering it little by little-and if you have a PAR meter, take measurements with notes on how your leaves look. Give the plants several days between adjustments and watch for little signs that damage is developing. That way you can dial in to the point right before you see damage develop. This will give you a general idea of what works only, because some plants will thrive at that level, while others will burn, or maybe go foxtail crazy or develop late flower nanners.
 
.Smoke

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
Rurumo said:
I think you can get away with a Diablo being closer to the canopy, since the diodes are more spread out-it reminds me more of how you use a bar light, vs more like an HPS/MH, which remind me a bit of my 650R's footprint. I always push my plants until I see some light bleaching on leaves when I test out a new light, and then take note of the % and distance to the bleaching, and I like to do that with multiple strains because some can take more light than others (this also changes within a "strain" depending on genotype.)

It's hard to dial in distance because in a general sense, more light=bigger yields....and that holds true even past the point you start seeing damage at the top of the canopy. And the other funny thing I've noticed, which you also mentioned, is that the leaves get damaged first (and worse) than the buds themselves. My biggest yield ever had significant light bleaching at the very top of the canopy (but really nice buds.)

I don't care about yields except for the self-competition part where sometimes I want to see how much I can push yield using new things that I've learned, so I've been keeping my lights at 80%, which works great for bar lights. If you are seeing bleaching at 90% and 12 inches, maybe cut it to 80% and raise it up to 20 inches (as a starting point in 12/12) and see how they do for a week or so, then start lowering it little by little-and if you have a PAR meter, take measurements with notes on how your leaves look. Give the plants several days between adjustments and watch for little signs that damage is developing. That way you can dial in to the point right before you see damage develop. This will give you a general idea of what works only, because some plants will thrive at that level, while others will burn, or maybe go foxtail crazy or develop late flower nanners.
Click to expand...
Hey @Rurumo
Do you happen to have a lux meter you can toss under the light for a second to give an idea of what #'s you're seeing @ your current settings please?
 
King Avitas

King Avitas

Well-Known Member
Rurumo said:
I think you can get away with a Diablo being closer to the canopy, since the diodes are more spread out-it reminds me more of how you use a bar light, vs more like an HPS/MH, which remind me a bit of my 650R's footprint. I always push my plants until I see some light bleaching on leaves when I test out a new light, and then take note of the % and distance to the bleaching, and I like to do that with multiple strains because some can take more light than others (this also changes within a "strain" depending on genotype.)

It's hard to dial in distance because in a general sense, more light=bigger yields....and that holds true even past the point you start seeing damage at the top of the canopy. And the other funny thing I've noticed, which you also mentioned, is that the leaves get damaged first (and worse) than the buds themselves. My biggest yield ever had significant light bleaching at the very top of the canopy (but really nice buds.)

I don't care about yields except for the self-competition part where sometimes I want to see how much I can push yield using new things that I've learned, so I've been keeping my lights at 80%, which works great for bar lights. If you are seeing bleaching at 90% and 12 inches, maybe cut it to 80% and raise it up to 20 inches (as a starting point in 12/12) and see how they do for a week or so, then start lowering it little by little-and if you have a PAR meter, take measurements with notes on how your leaves look. Give the plants several days between adjustments and watch for little signs that damage is developing. That way you can dial in to the point right before you see damage develop. This will give you a general idea of what works only, because some plants will thrive at that level, while others will burn, or maybe go foxtail crazy or develop late flower nanners.
Click to expand...
I couldn't agree more. Last grow I pushed everything in my new room with all new gear, including the addition of CO². I wanted to see what was possible with my set up. I ran 1420ppm CO² and ran my par levels at 1400-1500μmol @ 90% power and a 2.8ec. It produced great weight, quality was ok but not as good as I was used to. One strain started to fox tail and both strains that were run got nanners late into flowering causing me to harvest about 2 weeks early in an attempt to avoid any potential seed development.

My current grow is a sorta a quest for quality. Living soil, still 1420ppm CO² but lighting is never above 1250μmol. This is attainable for me with 3x SF4000 lights running at 65% power and about 14-16" above the canopy. My growth is much slower than last time but bud development is looking very nice and getting super frosty.

Btw I love the detail you give in your journal. Very informative and your buds look top shelf. Nicely done. :bigjoint:
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
King Avitas said:
I couldn't agree more. Last grow I pushed everything in my new room with all new gear, including the addition of CO². I wanted to see what was possible with my set up. I ran 1420ppm CO² and ran my par levels at 1400-1500μmol @ 90% power and a 2.8ec. It produced great weight, quality was ok but not as good as I was used to. One strain started to fox tail and both strains that were run got nanners late into flowering causing me to harvest about 2 weeks early in an attempt to avoid any potential seed development.

My current grow is a sorta a quest for quality. Living soil, still 1420ppm CO² but lighting is never above 1250μmol. This is attainable for me with 3x SF4000 lights running at 65% power and about 14-16" above the canopy. My growth is much slower than last time but bud development is looking very nice and getting super frosty.

Btw I love the detail you give in your journal. Very informative and your buds look top shelf. Nicely done. :bigjoint:
Click to expand...
Thank's King! I like the sound of your current approach, I think that's a great strategy to go for quality and strong/lasting terps. I know I've blasted plenty of terps away with too much light and too much air flow. Thanks for posting the details of what worked for you, I love to see what works for other people.
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Not the best pic, but looking nice and chunky. This one is ripening up fast and gaining density daily, having to keep tying it up because the buds are way too much for the thin stems. This is the one thing I don't like about small pots and short veg times. Unfortunately, there will be a huge gap in ripening times with the others, but I'm glad I found a terpy short flowering Cindy pheno. Unfortunately, I've had to keep my RH at 45% (50% in tent) due to the below average temps we've been having. It has made a big difference in my window condensation, but just going from 50% to 45% causes my Dehumidifier to really crank up the heat.

20221210_173402.jpg
 
MtRainDog

MtRainDog

Well-Known Member
Rurumo said:
This one is ripening up fast and gaining density daily, having to keep tying it up because the buds are way too much for the thin stems. This is the one thing I don't like about small pots and short veg times.
Click to expand...
I have the same issue. I cram 18x 1 gallon pots in a ~5x3 space. I used to do about 4-6 tops per plant, but was often running into lankiness issues like you describe. I switched to running single colas and it helps a lot. Disclaimer: I don't really care about maximizing yield.
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Hobbes said:
What kind of dog? He has a racing dog look about him.
Click to expand...
Sorry Hobbes, I missed your comment! He's a "husky mix" according to the Humane Society, when I adopted him. He had 6-7 brothers and sisters all being adopted out at the same time, they had been removed from the owner because they were being a nuisance to livestock and some ranchers were going to take matters into their own hands. Luckily they all found homes quickly because they all looked very similar lol. His brother lived in the same apartment complex as me for the first year after I got him, it was really good for them to see each other for a while. He was really muscular when he was young, but super lean, definitely could have some whippet or greyhound, his ears remind me of a German Shepard though.
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
We're at week 10 exactly now. Turning down the lights was the right move, everything is ripening nicely now. I'm just feeding .8 EC nutrient solution, which, for 3 gal of my tap water (140 ppm starting, 40 ppm Ca) I use 6 g Maxibloom, 2 grams Epsom, and 3 g Corn Steep Liquor, plus about 1/2 teaspoon of the ferti-fulvic powder I've been testing. That fulvic acid adds about 30 ppm. Very mild nutrient solution.

20221217_045139.jpg
I put this pic first because I like it. Left is my grapefruity C99, right is the #2 pheno of TRSC Palmyra. My friend popped the 2 Palmyra, but they were growing too big for his tent, so I swapped out my smallest plant for this one. Both phenos look incredible in their own way, it's going to be fun to compare them.

20221216_181611.jpg
Another of the Palmyra

20221217_045822.jpg
Another of the C99 and Palmyra, Palmyra is the two purplish buds at the bottom of the pic. I still can't believe how much heat my new dehumidifer puts out, I think this is the first time I've tacoed leaves in the winter. The Palmyra actually loved it, the heat triggered the purple to develop in both the buds and the leaves, almost overnight. Very cool to see because I'm more used to the opposite, anthocyanins triggered by cold.

20221217_044951.jpg
Next two, C99 Grapefruit pheno. I haven't really seen any more nanners develop since I turned the light down a bit.

20221217_044903.jpg
Oh, just saw the seed, neato!

20221217_044632.jpg
Next 3 pics of different Sweet Tooth #4 buds

20221217_044557.jpg

20221216_182143.jpg

Thanks for stopping by!
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Jeffislovinlife said:
Awesome looking you said 10 weeks how long are you going to be going?here's is mine at about 2 1/2 weeks View attachment 5238828and by Christmas is lady should be ready View attachment 5238829View attachment 5238830Hopefully you are doing well :hump: :peace:
Click to expand...
I'm doing great jeff, I hope you are as well. Your plants are looking dank and getting close! Are you planning for a Christmas harvest? I'm going to be shoveling snow nonstop from now through Christmas I think. Well, probably half the country will be lol.

I'm not sure when my first plant will come down, but it will probably be another 2 weeks for the Cindy and Sweet Tooth and maybe another 4 weeks for Palmyra and other Cindy to finish. My friend's other Palmyra pheno looks like it will take a few weeks longer than mine, so I'm hoping one of them ends up with the THCV trait since the two phenos are looking so different, both different, but both look excellent.
 
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