Schwaggy P's Random Stuff

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
hey dr schwaggyP I need a diagnosis. this was by far the best smelling bud and the outlier in many ways for the jabba x ssdd from useful. this burn you see is not nute burn from N I am almost certain but who knows. its only on the 4 'main cola' tops just like this one. I think it is light burn but it didn't seem that bad and wasn't the closest to the light imo. tho it was close to a 600w hps admittedly. I tried correcting with cal/mag organically and seemed to have worked at some point but in the home stretch the burn came back hard despite nothing but water for 4 weeks after a top dress 8 weeks from finish right at flip. anyway this plant has the best smelling buds by a mile im assuming straight tres dawg man its the chem I love whatever it is so I would like to maximize another run of her clones. any ideas what may avoid this so I can see her true potential

oh, it's also not bud rot tho I had bud rot before and the leaves had this exact look. these nugs are in tact and I see nothing else pointing to botritis
I added a pic after I trimmed her for drying. I didtnt want the burnt shit in my sift later so I cut it out. you can she she isn't the prettiest plants but she is dank and smelly and sticky. I got finger hash just from her and its tiny plant
I agree with you that it does not look like nute burn from N or bud rot. Usually the dead leaves associated with bud rot die back completely into the bud. I would guess that with nothing but plain water for several weeks, this may be a joint effort between a phosphorus deficiency and mild light burn exacerbating the underlying P deficiency. The lower leaf with the spotting (first pic lower left hand corner) and necrosis without obvious chlorosis seem to fit. There could be other issues at work here as well, but that would be my first inclination.

Looks like she's going to be great smoke. :blsmoke:
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Pheno hunting in S1's? That's an interesting proposition.. I'm making some S1's right now.. what's the process you go through trying to nail it down? How do you select the P1 from your pack?
I just pop as many S1 seeds as I have room to handle and select the female which best exemplifies what I'd like to refine in the original female. The S1 seeds will produce variations on the genes of the female within a tighter scope than F1 since you're just wading around in the gene pool of one plant. You will see some weaker runty plants, but others may have a more exaggerated aspect of the original female you may find more desirable in it's increased intensity. You could then self the selected S1 plant to further refine into S2.
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Solution ratios and application rates advice?
Have seen mentioned mix to 100ppm but not much documentation.
Have seen others using much higher 500ppm with very messed up appearing plants but some observable success.

I might go with distilled adding in GA3 to 100ppm.
Some people had noted they were applying a week to two weeks pre-bloom and up to a few weeks into flower. Less is more ime so I might start there but I'll wait to hear your thoughts @Schwaggy P
I'm using Ed Rosenthal's GA3 reversal procedure. It calls for 100ppm GA3 with about a weeks worth of spraying before/around flip.
Screen Shot 2019-05-31 at 6.15.37 AM.png
https://www.edrosenthal.com/the-guru-of-ganja-blog/feminized-seeds-the-top-methods-used-to-produce-them

I'll be mixing up the GA3 today for the first application. If you're going to start some today we can track both reversals with updates.
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Freshly flipped table of ladies that will be getting fully pollinated by the Skunky D (Chem D x Skunky Brewster). The ladies include: Chem D, Skunky Brewster #7, Skunky Brewster #8, Chem'91(skva), Chem'91(JB), and HAOG.

The focus of this pollination is really to get a Chem D BX1 and two versions of Skunky Brewster BX1 to reinforce the frost factor using the preferred female selections from the Skunky Brewster F1. Like the HAOG cube project, I'll probably end up cubing the Chem D as well (just not a polyBX).

I figure the Chem mashups would be interesting to hunt through and I had extra on the veg table so they were thrown in.

I generally get better seed yields from hydro runs vs. soil runs, so I'm doing a full tent pollination of hydro for this round.
skunkydpolnflip.jpg

Skunky D
male (Chem D x Skunky Brewster)
SkunkyDmale (1).jpg

Chem D
ChemD (2).jpg

Skunky Brewster #7
(RKS#5 x Iraqi)
skunky7.jpg
Skunky Brewster #8 (RKS#5 x Iraqi)
skunky8 (1).jpg
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
I agree with you that it does not look like nute burn from N or bud rot. Usually the dead leaves associated with bud rot die back completely into the bud. I would guess that with nothing but plain water for several weeks, this may be a joint effort between a phosphorus deficiency and mild light burn exacerbating the underlying P deficiency. The lower leaf with the spotting (first pic lower left hand corner) and necrosis without obvious chlorosis seem to fit. There could be other issues at work here as well, but that would be my first inclination.

Looks like she's going to be great smoke. :blsmoke:
thanks man yea it is weird to because it seems to exist in two main areas the very top as if light burn but there is necrosis among the larf to. do you think it could be cannabiliszing itself also?
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
If I can muster the fire to go get some distilled I'll make up a batch today.
Will you ph the water at all pre/post adding GA3?

I'll hit bubba for some pollen, have a few feeted up and ready (wink wink)
The GA3 solution has a pH of around 6.5 at 100ppm, so I'm not adjusting the pH. I have an Appalachian Super Skunk and Blue Cheese transplanted and ready for the first spray today. I found the small instruction insert that came with the GA3 and it says the GA3 has a shelf life of 2 years, but does not specify whether this is in regard to the dry powder or mixed solution.

This will be interesting to do parallel reversals. The Bubba should cooperate nicely :-).
 

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
Got my GA3 mixed up but now I'm confused. Made a mistake and mixed by weight .9gGA3 to ~1L distilled, but my ppms only coming up in the low 70s.

I realized far too late that I wanted .09g not .9g for my 946ml container :lol: but the readings have me baffled a bit, does GA3 not register on an EC meter?
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Got my GA3 mixed up but now I'm confused. Made a mistake and mixed by weight .9gGA3 to ~1L distilled, but my ppms only coming up in the low 70s.

I realized far too late that I wanted .09g not .9g for my 946ml container :lol: but the readings have me baffled a bit, does GA3 not register on an EC meter?
I was getting around 98ppm(0.5) when I mixed it yesterday. The insert said to add one level scoop (scoop included with GA3) to 720mL to get 100ppm.
ga3.jpg
 

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
Ya I got nothing on why my ppms are so low. Perhaps I got some hella cut GA3 :lol:

I'll take another measurement in a bit, maybe things hadn't dissolved yet. My stuff is a few years old but that shouldn't mess with conductivity could it?
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Ya I got nothing on why my ppms are so low. Perhaps I got some hella cut GA3 :lol:

I'll take another measurement in a bit, maybe things hadn't dissolved yet. My stuff is a few years old but that shouldn't mess with conductivity could it?
:lol: It's supposedly difficult to dissolve in straight water, but not impossible. I've read it could take 24hrs to fully dissolve if directly added to water. This GA3 dissolved quickly. If the total amount hasn't dissolved, it could undercount your eventual measurement. I don't think the age would alter the measurement.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Freshly flipped table of ladies that will be getting fully pollinated by the Skunky D (Chem D x Skunky Brewster). The ladies include: Chem D, Skunky Brewster #7, Skunky Brewster #8, Chem'91(skva), Chem'91(JB), and HAOG.

The focus of this pollination is really to get a Chem D BX1 and two versions of Skunky Brewster BX1 to reinforce the frost factor using the preferred female selections from the Skunky Brewster F1. Like the HAOG cube project, I'll probably end up cubing the Chem D as well (just not a polyBX).

I figure the Chem mashups would be interesting to hunt through and I had extra on the veg table so they were thrown in.

I generally get better seed yields from hydro runs vs. soil runs, so I'm doing a full tent pollination of hydro for this round.

Skunky D
male (Chem D x Skunky Brewster)
View attachment 4342777

Chem D
View attachment 4342779

Skunky Brewster #7
(RKS#5 x Iraqi)
View attachment 4342780
Skunky Brewster #8 (RKS#5 x Iraqi)
View attachment 4342781
How do we get any of these??? I don't really know where to get your seeds...
 

Psychonautic83

Well-Known Member
Should I still be seeing pistils pop up on a plant I'm reversing? From what I'm seeing so far I'm wondering if I should abort for now and put a bud producer in it's spot...
 
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Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Should I still be seeing pistils pop up on a plant I'm reversing? From what I'm seeing so far I'm wondering if I should abort for now and put a bud producer in it's spot...
You can get some pistils popping in the early flowering period while the reversal is taking place. You should see the production of male parts become all that develops. Here are some early shots in the reversal with some pistils
pistilreversal.jpg

If you're using up a valuable flowering spot, consider flowering her in a clear tote with splash over light or some other light source. That way if you can keep going with the reversal and if you later decide to abort, you didn't miss out on the flowering spot.
toteflowers.jpg
This tote process is described more in depth here (first half applies, the second half is more for male plants).
I would like to share my method of pollen collecting and targeted single branch pollination. If you decide to replicate this process for yourself, please be warned that having a male dropping pollen requires great care. I have organized this information into 3 sections: Flowering the Male, Collecting/Storing Pollen, and Pollinating a Single Branch.

FLOWERING THE MALE
View attachment 4257042

I usually take clones of males to keep their size manageable. Once they are rooted, I plant them in a 3” square pot and put them in a clear storage tote (pic 1). You will want to keep the tote lid slightly ajar to allow for air exchange.

Where to keep him depends on whether you have a free tent, separate veg space, or just another room with sunlight. For times when all tents are taken, I keep the male in my veg area (pic 2). It is important to remember that he will be separated from the flowering females.

:idea: In the corner of your veg room or peripheral splash over light is just fine to trigger the male. There’s no need to put him 3” beneath a 1000W DE, I’ve flowered males from the spillover light of a T5.

If you have a single tent with females flowering, the ambient light in another room is enough to accomplish our task.

The 12hr dark cycle is achieved by placing a box over the male’s clear tote (pic 3). This 12/12 box covering will trigger and maintain flowering through the entire process until you’ve collected enough pollen.

:idea: Make sure the box is large enough to cover your storage tote before you begin.

If you are triggering a male for a one-time pollination without storing pollen, then timing will be important. Males will usually develop flowers pretty quickly relative to their female flower setting counterparts. Since we want our females to have a decent flowerset to accept pollen, we have to give her some time to develop them. With most strains, weeks 3-4 will give us the best window to have both nice flower setting and early enough to give the seeds time to mature.

:idea: Don’t trigger your male until about day 10 of flower for your females. This gives females the head start to ensure there will be nice sized buds to give you seeds, as well as not have to deal with and worry about a male dumping tons of pollen too early.

This 12/12 box cycle will continue for the duration of pollen collection.

:idea: You want to approach most things in this process slowly and carefully. There is no extra credit for speed. Being gentle and deliberate with him will ensure any pollen stays within the tote. Pretend you’re doing tai chi at the senior center when you interact with him.

As you gain confidence and success with this process, you can flower multiple males simultaneously (pic 4).

View attachment 4257043
Keep in mind, the goal here is to be aware of his maturity in order to collect pollen long before he creates dust storms. At first, his flowers will be small balls (pic 5) that are not much of a threat to your females at this point. As they begin to develop, you will notice that they cluster and start to hang (pic 6). Usually this timeline window can be from 10-20 days. As the male flowers begin to individualize from the clusters you are now on pollen watch.

:idea: This is the point at which you will need to be very careful about moving him around and watering him.

Once you begin to see the male flowers open, the yellowish anthers will be visible (pic 7) but not drop pollen just yet. The pollen is only hours away at this point, so remain vigilant. If you try to collect pollen as soon as the male flower opens, you’ll find no pollen freely drops, so wait until you see the anthers go from a tight smooth sheen, to bloated matte yellow (pic 8 ).

If you find that you are having issue timing the pollen drop, you can wait until one of the flowers releases pollen onto a leaf below (pic 9).

The male flowers will reach maturity at different rates, which we can use to our advantage. The older male flowers will be first to drop and keep in mind we are only needing a few flowers worth of pollen in order to pollinate multiple single branches. By collecting the first few pollen drops, we are containing the threat of stray pollen.
 

Psychonautic83

Well-Known Member
You can get some pistils popping in the early flowering period while the reversal is taking place. You should see the production of male parts become all that develops. Here are some early shots in the reversal with some pistils
View attachment 4343426

If you're using up a valuable flowering spot, consider flowering her in a clear tote with splash over light or some other light source. That way if you can keep going with the reversal and if you later decide to abort, you didn't miss out on the flowering spot.
View attachment 4343427
This tote process is described more in depth here (first half applies, the second half is more for male plants).

Damn, nice.. I happened to already buy a clear tote for later to prevent pollen spreading. Moved a girl to flower and I'll see if my mix works or not.
 
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