Why You've Been Seeing a Lot More Rye Whiskey
by SAM DANGREMOND –Town and Country-JUL 22, 2019
Centuries before the bourbon boom, rye whiskey was America's spirit. Rye was what George Washington himself distilled at Mount Vernon, and if it weren't for Prohibition, when bootlegged Canadian whiskies took the place of rye, Americans may have never lost their penchant for the spicy and bold spirit.
Now, Americans' palate for rye whiskey—which must be made from at least 51 percent rye grain—is decidedly restored. Sales volumes rose by more than 1,000 percent between 2009 and 2018, according to the Distilled Spirits Council. In 2018, 1.1 billion cases of rye were sold.
What accounts for the resurgence in popularity? Ask experts, and one man's name comes up again and again: Dave Pickerell.
The New York Times dubbed Pickerell, who died of heart failure last November at 62, a "master of whiskey and rye." The paper also noted his nickname: the Johnny Appleseed of American whiskey. Pickerell, a West Point graduate and chemical engineer, spent 14 years at Maker's Mark before leaving to consult with craft distilleries.
When Mount Vernon embarked on a mission to produce rye whiskey at the reconstructed distillery that George Washington had built there 200 years earlier, leaders at the historic landmark sought out Pickerell as an expert, along with other master distillers like Chris Morris of Woodford Reserve and Jack Daniel's and Jimmy Russell of Wild Turkey.
"Over the course of nearly a decade, Dave became a valued part of many other projects at our distillery, including the production of apple and peach brandy, Scotch, and our aged rye whiskeys. Each year, Dave continued to teach and assist in the production of George Washington rye whiskey, single malt whisky, and brandies," the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association, which maintains the historic landmark, said in a statement after Pickerell's death.
After reestablishing the distillery at Mount Vernon, Pickerell turned his attention to a start-up rye operation based on a farm in Shoreham, Vermont. WhistlePig hired Pickerell as its master distiller in 2009.
"Dad was a history buff, and he loved that rye was America's spirit earlier in American history," Dave's son, Micah Pickerell, told me. "He didn't like that our national whiskey was all but gone from the market [at the time]. He saw it as a big opportunity in the market for growth."
"One of the really big ideas that he wanted to bring to market was really good rye whiskey, and WhistlePig was his baby in that regard," Micah said. "It was really well received in the market right from the beginning, and that was vindication for him."
WhistlePig's CEO, Jeff Kozak, echoed that sentiment, adding that with Dave as master distiller, WhistlePig was able to blur the categories of traditional rye whiskey.
"Nobody had ever finished rye whiskey in exotic barrels, and Dave's short finishing technique was what allowed all the complexity of Sauternes, Armagnac, Calvados to shine through but not over power rye's inherent spiciness and richness in WhistlePig's Boss Hog and Old World Series," Kozak said.
Earlier this year, WhistlePig released PiggyBack, the last whiskey on which Pickerell ever worked. The six-year-old whiskey is made using rye grain from WhistlePig's Vermont farm, where it is also distilled and aged in Vermont white oak barrels.
In addition to WhistlePig's latest release, larger whiskey makers launched ryes this year. Bulleit introduced a 12-year-old rye and Basil Hayden’s debuted a Caribbean Reserve Rye. Dan McKee, who was recently promoted to master distiller at Michter's, announced that his first release would be a 10-year-old single-barrel rye whiskey. The rye craze seems to be here to stay.