Seed Production. A Tutorial

grow1620

Well-Known Member
dank hands -

1. at around 4-5 weeks..right when max pistils are showing. I've found that pollinating earlier results in less seeds because the plant focuses on seed production rather then forming new pistils.
2. Yes, as long as you take proper precautions not to get pollen on other parts of the plant..ie, calm room, and protect the rest of the plant with some sort of covering like a plastic bag or something. There's a good chance some pollen can hit the rest of the plant though so I make no guarantees! It takes precision and planning but it can be done.
3.Yes, if you do it in the same room and/or are not careful about the pollen spreading though the air (turns fans off!!) I would pull the single female into another room and lightly brush some pollen on...let it sit for a few hours...then spray liberally with water. This not only washes the excess pollen off the leaves but water will also deactivate pollen...in a way, sterilizing it.
4. A simple wipe down with water or cleaning solution should clear out any left over pollen. Pollen also dies at normal room conditions in a matter of days (I think!!) which is why it needs to be kept refrigerated or frozen to stay viable!! I'd be more concerned with residual pollen being left in filters and such rather then on walls or surfaces.

hope that answers a few Q's even though it's a week late.

and the reason I'm visiting this thread - I've successfully chopped a branch off of a female plant in full bloom, pollinated it with fresh pollen and kept it in a vase of light nutrients, about 1/4 str hydro stuff. I was able to pull a handful of ( barely) viable seeds off of it after about 4 weeks!! This is obviously not a efficient method. I would guess I got about 5 viable seeds (yeh they sprouted) off of a small branch that would have been about 1-2 grams..it's 'sister' plants ..aka 'control group' were about the same sized plants, 1-3 grams each, and produced about 100-150 seeds each, and were finished in coco, rather then a vase of nutes.

Just letting everyone know what's possible! I think some trial and error could discover a better nute str/formula to use on said cutting. ;)
 

SCARHOLE

Well-Known Member
You have to breed with another auto, or do 6 generations selection for the auto trait if starting fresh with Ruderalis x reg plant.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
Hopefully someone is still checking in on this thread. I crossed a few strains last month and now I am harvesting a couple of them early due to a pest invasion I had to deal with. Since I pollenated so early into flowering, I got some ripe seeds half way through. My question is,

I HARVESTED SOME OF THE SEEDS BEFORE DRYING THE BUD BECAUSE THE PLANT WAS INFESTED WITH THRIPS AND SHIT AND I DIDN'T WANT TO DRY THE BUD INSIDE TO COLLECT THE SEEDS. IS THIS OK TO TAKE THE SEEDS OFF THE PLANT WHEN IT IS STILL WET OR WILL IT TOTALLY DESTROY THE SEEDS? THE PODS WERE BROKEN OPEN AND THERE WAS ALREADY A LOT OF AIR SPACE WITHIN THE CALYX AND AROUND THE SEED SO I KNOW IT WAS NOT ATTACHED TO THE FLOWER ANYMORE. I AM REALLY DEPENDING ON THIS STRAIN TO SURVIVE AND AM WORRIED A LITTLE THAT I MESSED UP THE SEEDS BY TAKING THEM OUT BEFORE DRYING THE BUD. IS THIS OK TO DO? IF I GET ONLY A FEW GOOD SEEDS I WILL BE HAPPY ABOUT IT. I ONLY WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS ISN'T GOING TO DEFINITELY DESTROY THE SEEDS BY TAKING THEM OUT OF THE CALYX BEFORE THE BUD IS DRY.

Thank you, any insight will be appreciated.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Hopefully someone is still checking in on this thread. I crossed a few strains last month and now I am harvesting a couple of them early due to a pest invasion I had to deal with. Since I pollenated so early into flowering, I got some ripe seeds half way through. My question is,

I HARVESTED SOME OF THE SEEDS BEFORE DRYING THE BUD BECAUSE THE PLANT WAS INFESTED WITH THRIPS AND SHIT AND I DIDN'T WANT TO DRY THE BUD INSIDE TO COLLECT THE SEEDS. IS THIS OK TO TAKE THE SEEDS OFF THE PLANT WHEN IT IS STILL WET OR WILL IT TOTALLY DESTROY THE SEEDS? THE PODS WERE BROKEN OPEN AND THERE WAS ALREADY A LOT OF AIR SPACE WITHIN THE CALYX AND AROUND THE SEED SO I KNOW IT WAS NOT ATTACHED TO THE FLOWER ANYMORE. I AM REALLY DEPENDING ON THIS STRAIN TO SURVIVE AND AM WORRIED A LITTLE THAT I MESSED UP THE SEEDS BY TAKING THEM OUT BEFORE DRYING THE BUD. IS THIS OK TO DO? IF I GET ONLY A FEW GOOD SEEDS I WILL BE HAPPY ABOUT IT. I ONLY WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS ISN'T GOING TO DEFINITELY DESTROY THE SEEDS BY TAKING THEM OUT OF THE CALYX BEFORE THE BUD IS DRY.

Thank you, any insight will be appreciated.
youll be good fonz i do it all the time. the most important thing and the thing that causes the most problems(at least in my case) is thats the pollen use was not viable, stilgenerated seeds but they would not germ or would germ and die, bu besides that i pull my seeds out of the bud all the timer so my bud can ripen and my seeds can be safly dried and stored away. so you are fine your not the first person to harvest the seeds b4 drying honestly i think i would lose all my seeds if i dried b4 taking them out and i grow a limited # and i want every one..... so take b4 they dry and you got to smoke all the bud to find em.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
I tried germinating a few seeds a few days after I pulled them from the buds and they didn't sprout. Then I tried again only this time I took my fingernails and I "cracked" the seed open by pinching on each side of the seed where the two halves come together and sure enough they sprouted in a few days. They are now doing very well as plants. I found this to be true a few other times with seeds I have obtained. It seems as though some seeds need a little help cracking open, which I wouldn't recommend if you only have one seed because you risk crushing the insides. It does work however, and I've had to do this a few times that seeds didn't sprout. You pinches the edges together just enough to "open" the seed up. Much like cracking open an almond or something.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
i take a syringe or a needle and scrape across the line where it is supposed to open for just he reasons you mention fonz.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
i take a syringe or a needle and scrape across the line where it is supposed to open for just he reasons you mention fonz.
Probably a lot safer to do it that way huh. lol I've never tried the scratching method. How hard do you have to push with the needle?
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
not hard at all once you soak them in water, try to scratch at a few spots around the edge several times lightly till its at a depth you like. dont try to get it all in one swipe, youll either a)stab your finger or B) stab thru the seed.

also dont know if you got any forceps, with seeds and tiny thing they are the bomb perfect for planting a seed or just holding one. i got a pair of 8" angl tip ones for under 4 buck during a sale.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
not hard at all once you soak them in water, try to scratch at a few spots around the edge several times lightly till its at a depth you like. dont try to get it all in one swipe, youll either a)stab your finger or B) stab thru the seed.

also dont know if you got any forceps, with seeds and tiny thing they are the bomb perfect for planting a seed or just holding one. i got a pair of 8" angl tip ones for under 4 buck during a sale.
Do you scratch parallel or perpendicular to the seem of the seed? I've always wondered how to do this. Thanks!
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
so if you where looking at as seed from stem side, you will see where the seed tops meet they will make kind( of a line around the seed to the point, make your scratches on this "line" so if a seed was laying flat on a table stem side off the table or whatever cuz thats how they sit your scratches would be horizontal.


darn never thought i would be so difficult to describe the shape of a seed.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
^^^^^^^^Right, like scratch the line where the seed opens when it hatches to give it a "push." What brand of needle do you use? lol j/k
 
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