Sentinel climate controller reviews?

Hey guys!

Just got my CHHC-1. I put the sensor in the middle of the room and switched it on. The PPm level says 776. That seems very high but I could be wrong. What's the "normal" PPm in a closed room? ( I didn't breath in the room)

Did you calibrate the unit before using or used it straight out of the box?

Thanks a lot!

FileError404 said:

Hey guys!

Just got my CHHC-1. I put the sensor in the middle of the room and switched it on. The PPm level says 776. That seems very high but I could be wrong. What's the "normal" PPm in a closed room? ( I didn't breath in the room)

Did you calibrate the unit before using or used it straight out of the box?

Thanks a lot!

Click to expand...

I did calibrate mine before using it. 776 for a closed room does seem high. I would calibrate and test again.

KnowledgeSeeker said:

I did calibrate mine before using it. 776 for a closed room does seem high. I would calibrate and test again.

Click to expand...

I think that they come calibrated outta the box, no?

I turned mine on and it register ~350, which was close enough for me - haven't futzed with it since.

Calibrated it on my balcony. Set my base level at 420 since I live on a high traffic street. Running low 500s now in the room which should be normal for a polyed-up room.

Thanks guys!

Anybody running this with a lumatek ballast? If so have you had any problems with the CHHC-1 since the instructions say place no less than an 8 foot minimum when running near a digital ballast.

nuggz said:

Anybody running this with a lumatek ballast? If so have you had any problems with the CHHC-1 since the instructions say place no less than an 8 foot minimum when running near a digital ballast.

Click to expand...

I'm running 4 Sentinel controllers with 2 lumatek 600w ballasts. A CHHC-1, an EVC-2, a UTC-1 and a MDT-1. All have temperature probes, which is what I've found screws up when too close to the ballasts. The EVC-2 is the only one I've had problems with. The CHHC-1 and MDT-1 are two feet from the ballasts with no issues. The EVC-2 was giving me max temps readings of 167, so I moved it farther away (7+ ft) from the ballasts. It was better, but still would report max temp at 167 every once in a while. The problem was solved permenantly after moving the EVC-2 to its own 15 amp service. Haven't had a problem since. I've never had an issue with any of the other controllers, and like stated before, 2 of them are 2 feet away from the Lumateks.

How would you run the CHHC-1 if you only want the co2 injected when the light is on on flowering cycles which is 12/12? As someone mentioned, am i really better off running a CPPM and a EVC-2 so i dont overload the unit? I am going to have a mini split ac in the room so i dont waste any of the co2. I am sure mini-split will run a good amount of amps which will limit me from pluggin in a dehumi or other stuff.

Depends on your split unit. My A/C unit can't be used on the CHHC1 as it resets itself on power down. I just run it on it's own auto settings and it corresponds with the Sentinel within one degree.

sdkid said:

How would you run the CHHC-1 if you only want the co2 injected when the light is on on flowering cycles which is 12/12? As someone mentioned, am i really better off running a CPPM and a EVC-2 so i dont overload the unit? I am going to have a mini split ac in the room so i dont waste any of the co2. I am sure mini-split will run a good amount of amps which will limit me from pluggin in a dehumi or other stuff.

Click to expand...

It really depends on the amps of the mini split and the dehu. I have a 14K btu dual hose portable AC which runs around 12 amps, a 10" max fan, a sentinel CO2 regulator, and a 8" vortex fan plugged into my CHHC-1 and it handles all of those just fine. The CHHC has a light sensor so CO2 is only injected when the lights are on.

I've built applications to read write over RS232 (serial cable) and if someone would like to buy me a CHHC1 I'd be happy to write everyone a custom app to record and track readings, send email/sms notifications if parameters get out of whack, and set options on the unit. I just need a unit to write it against.

Solar Deity said:

I'm running 4 Sentinel controllers with 2 lumatek 600w ballasts. A CHHC-1, an EVC-2, a UTC-1 and a MDT-1. All have temperature probes, which is what I've found screws up when too close to the ballasts. The EVC-2 is the only one I've had problems with. The CHHC-1 and MDT-1 are two feet from the ballasts with no issues. The EVC-2 was giving me max temps readings of 167, so I moved it farther away (7+ ft) from the ballasts. It was better, but still would report max temp at 167 every once in a while. The problem was solved permenantly after moving the EVC-2 to its own 15 amp service. Haven't had a problem since. I've never had an issue with any of the other controllers, and like stated before, 2 of them are 2 feet away from the Lumateks.

Click to expand...

Ive been having this issue with the evc-2 it has recorded 167 and 99 rh, if I turn if off and back on its usually ok. I dont have any digital ballasts only remote, but it is kind of close to them. Also it is not on a dedicated circuit. I love the controler but just want to iron out this issue.

I was hoping to get that software for the chhc-1, but it looks like the url is no longer active. Does anyone know another site to grab it at. Or can anyone post a copy of thier's? I've been wanting to use my computer for this for a while but it's hard to locate. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I like the Sentinel EVC-2 and have only one gripe. The remote sensor should have the photocell. I can't have the controller outside of the environment.

mihjaro said:

I like the Sentinel EVC-2 and have only one gripe. The remote sensor should have the photocell. I can't have the controller outside of the environment.

Click to expand...

Thats my gripe too.

Also, its very likely that the ecoplus therm has little if no bearing on reality. All of these small them/hygrometers vary widely from unit to unit.
I have very little evidence or faith, that they can stick within 5 degrees, and 10% of the actual conditions.
They "feel" and look so accurate....but the instrument/elements are junk/crap.

I am new here and new to the thread.
Not sure if it is old news to you guys, but i use an extremely handy little remote-monitor called the TX60U, that wirelessly feeds temps, and humidity readings at pre-determined intervals to a webpage on their server. You can set up alerts on both text and email for min. and max humidity. All of it is very easy to download to excel, and view graphically!!
40-ish dollar range
http://www.weatherdirect.com/temperaturesensor.aspx

gabb said:

I am new here and new to the thread.
Not sure if it is old news to you guys, but i use an extremely handy little remote-monitor called the TX60U, that wirelessly feeds temps, and humidity readings at pre-determined intervals to a webpage on their server. You can set up alerts on both text and email for min. and max humidity. All of it is very easy to download to excel, and view graphically!!
40-ish dollar range
http://www.weatherdirect.com/temperaturesensor.aspx

Click to expand...

of course if you have the Sentinel...you are probably past the need for the tx60, but it is still a very handy little monitor!

gabb said:

of course if you have the Sentinel...you are probably past the need for the tx60, but it is still a very handy little monitor!

Click to expand...

I use both! The CHHC-1 is the best controller out there. I use a similar Weather station with 3 wireless sensors. One in each tent, and one outside at my intake ports (to see what my temp differential is from outside). Currently, I am using it to control my intake/exhaust fans based on temp/humidity. The CO2 function works great too. I have used it with both a generator (Hydrogen), and with a tank and solenoid in fuzzy logic mode. This is a really flexible controller. NOTE: Sentinel (and other companies) make a relay to kick on larger devices with the CHHC-1. Sentinel calls these relays 'power expanders', and they make both a 110 and 220 versions. They have a trigger cable you plug into the CHHC-1, and another cable you plug into the outlet. I used to run a sealed zone in this room with AC. The AC was on a dedicated circuit, but controlled by the CHHC-1 using a Sentinel PXM-1 relay.

I like Sentinel controllers. This CHHC-1 (v.1) has provided 3 years of excellent service.

Sensory overload! This is a new zone, so I am using several sensors while I monitor and dial in the environment.

...when I get older and stop making sense.

mihjaro said:

I like the Sentinel EVC-2 and have only one gripe. The remote sensor should have the photocell. I can't have the controller outside of the environment.

Click to expand...

The CHHC-4 has a remote probe for light, temp, CO2 and humidity. That should have been my purchase.

The Sentinel website.... took me forever to find through all of the google links. They have the product documentation for the whole line in PDF.

http://grow-gps.com/

Hello Everyone! I'm new to RIU (first post). I'm glad this thread is revived and still around. Mucho respect to Knowledge Seeker and Bob Smith for their maturity (in the face of ________ ) and most excellent information. Before ever reading this post i called the online shop I buy stuff from (just putting together a "semi-sealed" room using tents and a portable 2 hose a/c) and asked who made the best environmental controllers... SENTINEL HANDS DOWN I was told. Gave them a call and got a call back from Russ in their tech support. All I can say is I know I will be using a Sentinel... I'm just trying to figure out how to most efficiently use the space.

LionsRoor - I notice in your pic that you have a couple of Speedsters mounted next to the CHHC-1. Are they for air-cooled hoods? If not, what?

Mihjaro - Why can't you have the controller in your environment? I felt the same due to the red LED display interrupting the dark cycle, but was assured by Russ that it has no ill effects. I also felt that the photo cell on the unit wouldn't know day from night if mounted outside the tent. The remote probe on the CHHC-4 solves that I guess. When using the remote probe, is the photocell on the main unit defeated???

Thanks all and let's keep this useful thread going. It sure helped me within the last two days since finding it.

ETW

EnoughTimeWasted said:

LionsRoor - I notice in your pic that you have a couple of Speedsters mounted next to the CHHC-1. Are they for air-cooled hoods? If not, what?

Click to expand...

One is for the speed of the intake fan, and one is for the speed of the exhaust fan. This gives me the ability to not only match my negative and positive pressures within the tents, but it lets me control the amount of air I am exchanging (CFM's). Currently, the weather is cool at night outside, when the lights are on in the tent. I am running the ventilation system at about 70% (and yes, it goes to 11!) haha

Mihjaro - Why can't you have the controller in your environment? I felt the same due to the red LED display interrupting the dark cycle, but was assured by Russ that it has no ill effects. I also felt that the photo cell on the unit wouldn't know day from night if mounted outside the tent. The remote probe on the CHHC-4 solves that I guess. When using the remote probe, is the photocell on the main unit defeated???

Click to expand...

There is no photo cell on the base unit - just on the probe of the CHHC. I used to run my CHHC in my zone - without any ill effects... but after a time, I did add a little piece of panda film taped at the top and draped over the display to defeat the light. Call me superstitious or whatever -- but once your eyes adjust to the light put out by the CHHC, things are quite illuminating! It's bright!