sharing my modified subcool super soil recipe

sidewing

Well-Known Member
heres this current run.. front left jack herer.. front right sonoma coma, back right master og kush, back left kens GDP..
these are on day 18 of flower right now. showing real nice early in flower. lots of nodes, the canopy is thick and pretty even.. so far the heat hasnt been a problem (pushing 110 outside, room stays around 80 degrees max when light first turns on.. by the time it turns off the room is usually back down to 72) but i notice a couple of leaves the colors are fading directly under the middle of the light.. bud shows no damage at all though. im bending those tops right in the middle to keep em away from the heat intensity.
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fattiemcnuggins

Well-Known Member
I'm really liking your technique, it's close to what I do ,same ideas anyways. I don't feel so crazy now. +rep for sharing your recipe
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
this round is going really really well for me. only difference is i filled the rest of the pot with soil mix after transplant instead of plain roots organic.. and just doing 10ml liquid karma, 5ml hygrozyme and 4teaspoons of sucanat.. (mixed into 1gallon of water, and i water 2 gallons per plant once the tray underneath is dry... and i give the first gallon water, the second gallon is the mixture) once a week all thru flower. i think this amount of additives is what i will run from now on, plants seem to be responding well. i also started using a less expensive brand of worm castings, that costs like 9.99 for twice as much, but its still pure ewc. but i think i use a little bit more ewc than before... but part of growing is taking the original recipe and tweaking it to what works for you.. this is whats working for me, if u have to make slight modifications and see better results then that is what works for you. everyones situation is different.

i personally take off all growth below 50% when i go into flower, and i top all thru veg (indicas a little less, sativas constantly) then i just lst once they go into flower, no more topping.. but i do the 'oops i fucked up' method of topping the day i switch em to 12/12.. which is basically cutting right above where the top nodes are growing out from, so they grow back, u dont lose the node, but it keeps em a little shorter, and bushier.. and helps even the canopy. the bottom grows up to where the top is at. and they all grow together.

last round i averaged about 6oz a plant off the medium-high yielders.. the low yielders such as GDP pulled about 4oz.. i think from the way the plants have been going this round, itll be a little higher per plant. buds are really fat, on day 30 right now.. and lots lots lots of healthy hairs. ill post another set of darktime pics around day 56 when they should be pretty much ready.
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
In your opinion how much can alfalfa slow down flowering? Assuming there was a significant amount amended to the soil.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
hard to say, ive never hit the point where it slowed it down.. the way i use it in the mix the plants flower very quickly.. hairs/buds already showing 7 days in. not sure if it would under moderation. the growth hormone naturally found in alfalfa is found in some commercial products that claim to improve bud/oil development. the only thing i can think of that might slow it down is maybe too much nitrogen throwing off the ratios of n-p-k.
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
just curious because i used 50#'s per 9' container and 25# per smaller container. i didnt get the plants as big as id like as starts, nor did i get them plugged into their final container as early as id like. and im kinda hoping they take their time transitioning to flower.to make up for lack of early season growth. i think my n-p-k is good just wondering if the amount of that hormone is relatively high.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
i think alfalfa is used up pretty quickly. its not a slow release. if you make it past any potential initial burning you should be fine.
 

Noora

Member
its hard to say how much it cost.. i buy the ammendments in bulk from a website groworganic dot com that is based here in california.. they are a regular organic gardening site so i feel comfortable ordering from them. id say something like 500 dollars for a few years worth of batches easily. i run about 5 cycles a year. the things i have to buy regularly are 2 bags of roots organic soil and about every few cycles a 5lb bag of happy frog bat guano cuz i cant find a 50lb bag of it anywhere. also have to buy worm castings every time i mix a batch, and xtreme mycorrhizal every few times. other things like the alfalfa meal, kelp, humic acid i just use the 5lb bag down to earth brand. i only run 4 plants under a single 1k, but the mix i use fills a black plastic garbage can about 4/5 of the way.. and when i take out enough soil for 4 plants, i usually have about 1/3 of the can left, so id say u should be able to have enough for 7 plants. maybe 8 maximum.

i just made some killer hash from this trim, fully melts/bubbles.. and looks like peanut brittle.. amazing stuff.

i traditionally do a dry trim, hang the whole plant, this time i just cut the tops and im giving the lower half an extra couple of weeks.. and trimmed em wet, and made bubble from it right away.. only the sugar leaves.. so the hash had no impurities whatsoever, the 160 bag that is usually the impurities was completely empty. i switched to a 4 bag bubblebag 1 gallon from the 5gallon i was running.. because now i can fit the 1gal paint container i use in the fridge and freezer so the water is super cold.. the water is like slushy when i run it through now.


if i was going to do 14 plants, do u think just doubling everything is ok? anything youd recommend changing? thx
 

Noora

Member
just bought every single thing u used to a t. going to use 7 gal pots and everything.. think this will work for me well because you mentioned before 110 degree weather (same here)and got a good idea where you're at lol
 

Rizzo00

Active Member
Why do you pefer roots organics? The guy at the hydro store I get my supplies from suggested it to me so I got a bag. I usually use ocean forest. Right now I have a test going between the two outdoor. I am noticing that the roots organic has way more perlite and dries out way faster than the ocean forest requiring me to water more freaquently. have you used ocean forest? If so what benefits do you see in RO over OF? Thanks
 

Noora

Member
Curious to know how much all the materials ran you?

used amazon for everything except the roots organic..
110$ total off amazon, plus 15$ for each bag of the roots organic..
other than the soil and worm castings, going to have a lot extra for a few more batches.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
i use roots organic because it has always worked best for me. even in the bottled nutrient days early on. i just stick to what works when it works how i want it to.. it gives flowers a great taste, and roots seem to be healthier than other soils ive tried.. plus i get roots organic for 14 dollars a large bag. good price for good soil. i think watering a little bit more is not a bad thing, keeps your roots breathing good and healthy.

the mix is working great for me right now in 100+ degree weather outside.. but i turn the light on at 9pm and run til 9am.. so that keeps temps under control.. during the day room can reach 80-90 degrees.. depending on how hot outside.. 110ish will get the room to near 90 around 5pm.. usually its drop to mid 80;s by the time light kicks on at 9.. and by midnight its down to 75-80.. at sunrise its mid 70's tops in the room... i have 2 big fans blowing upward underneath the plants to blow cool air on the plants, and blow the heat up and away from the plants that is coming from the light. i dont like running during this summer heat but just dont really have a choice. product doesnt seem to last long enough to stop.

but back to roots organic.. mine never has any bug problems, maybe its just a northern california thing (i think thats were subcool resides).. i am in central california.. (is that your guess?? ;)) i dont have any pests for that matter, no mites, no gnats, no aphids.. just a daddy long leg here and there. i dont use harmful pesticides, when i had mites i fought them during the winter when temps were in 60's and their lifecycle was longer.. and i hit em every 3-4 days thru the whole cycle with azamax and sns-217 combo foliar spray.. then i treated the clones when i cut em... i beat mites safe and naturally.. been clean over a year now. now i just spray em when they go into flower with azamax once, not that i need to, but i just do it for good measure as a preventative.

my opinion on guys at the grow shop are they dont know shit.. ive had to educate them i dont know how many times (just to bring some value to myself to lock in my discount) and even then i hate going there. 99% of the people in grow shops know jack shit.. the 1% that do are very valuable though, but very far and few in between.. look for the ones that talk you out of buying a product.. if someone is telling you that you need this and that and you are using 20 things now, its probably not a good thing to listen to their advice cuz they are probably just moving their products.. there was a shop here that is now closed unfortunately where ive gone in ready to buy an expensive product and been talked out of it because it just wasnt necessary. that is a good shop that forever had my loyalty. most products overlap and its just becomes redundant and unnecessary. weed doesnt need anything special.. just a few base things, and thats it.

n-p-k.. your macro nutrients..
your micro nutrients (azomite has almost everything)
bacteria diversity and fungus diversity (kelp is great, i introduce mycorrhizal because it works for me)
and humic/fulvic acids/enzymes to break everything down and make it into a usable form for the plant..
then something to feed your bacteria and keep your soil life thriving (sucanat/molasses)
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
i dont support fox farm because i think their products are garbage and they as a company are sleezy.. such as marking things organic that are not.. everyone ive ever known that has grown using fox farm their weed doesnt compare to roots organic in taste and smell.. i think the only thing good about OF is maybe the humus, but i prefer to just add general organics alaska humus to my soil, or even denali gold (but thats not as readily available here)

alaska humus is good because of the bacteria diversity it contains, and humus also buffers your soil ph.

subcool is not as organic (i think anyway from what ive heard him make reference to in the past) as i live my life.. i eat all organic foods from whole foods/trader joes.. and try to use as much organic as possible.. im not full on tree hugging hippie. because that is just too hard for the location i live and the choices i have to make to survive and support a family. but i do believe organic where ever possible should always be a concern. and if you cant get it organic, then it needs to be a natural source that the only reason its not organic is because it cannot be verified.. but never any synthetics/chemicals added.
 
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