Spider Mite Control
- Thread starter NewGrowth
- Start date
aeviaanah
Well-Known Member
this is the only way to win the war my brother...sounds like they were pretty bad and pissed you offi just ordered some floramite. I have not seen any mites since i used azatrol every 3 days for 3 times but i am gonna keep up the azatrol untill the floramite arrives. Once it gets here i am gonna use it, then set off a c02 cannister in the room, then pyrethium bomb (the commercial kind 4% not the sissy doc. Doom .04%). Then i am going to order the triple threat predetory mites. I put on my fatigues and i am declaring war on all spidermites domestic and abroad!if that doesnt rid me of them then i am gonna just quit growing and become a supertramp!
aeviaanah
Well-Known Member
I am starting week 6 with some 8 week strains and some 12 weeks strains. I just found one single leaf that had about 5 adult mites and 20 or so eggs and a web at the base of the leaf...i plucked it off and continued to look around for any other signs of them and did not see them. Tho i am sure they are there. I have dealt with spider mites in the past and it is a rough battle when they get out of control.
My question, would you let the plants go as is? or spray fan leaves with permethrin, neem oil, azatrol or floramite...i use all four. i will shield nugs from getting sprayed but a little over spray may occur. will mites eat fan leaves then move to buds? i have never seen a spider mite eat a bud, do they? im sure they will as a last resort but they prefer the fan leaves right?
My question, would you let the plants go as is? or spray fan leaves with permethrin, neem oil, azatrol or floramite...i use all four. i will shield nugs from getting sprayed but a little over spray may occur. will mites eat fan leaves then move to buds? i have never seen a spider mite eat a bud, do they? im sure they will as a last resort but they prefer the fan leaves right?
Hayduke
Well-Known Member
Yes they will eat your buds...and worse surround them with webbing and lay eggs, shit and leaves their dead...its a mess. My CO2 method works for plants in flower too far along to use chems...it can damage the plant from frost bite and they will return (does nothing for the room) so if anyone does this and then puts them back to flower, re-treat at harvest to make sure they do not come back in cure.
I hate these bastards...mites are taking over the world! they are not only increasing their numbers in agriculture, but the mites that afflict dogs as well as humans also seem to be on the rise.
Good luck...when you see webs, you are already in deep...
aeviaanah
Well-Known Member
I am not in deep...just on that particular leaf. I have a 30x magnifier and a good eye for mites. I have dealt with them before. The weird thing is I also thought when there are webs they are established and are bad. This was only on one leaf! Not a sign of them anywhere else. Again, i have a good eye for mites. I removed the infected leaf, flushed it. My buddy held each and every plant upside down as i sprayed fan leafs with floramite. We then turned over and sprayed tops of leafs as well.
The only thing i can think of is the insecticides/miticides are doing there job and that one leaf was one that was not treated as well as others? Hopefully not spraying buds wont make them all go to the buds!
They usually hit the buds when there is limited food left from fan leaves right? Ive always seen them colonize fan leaves first and have never let them get too bad to where they go to buds. Seems as if they would go to buds as a last resort of food and not ideal place for them to lay eggs.
The only thing i can think of is the insecticides/miticides are doing there job and that one leaf was one that was not treated as well as others? Hopefully not spraying buds wont make them all go to the buds!
They usually hit the buds when there is limited food left from fan leaves right? Ive always seen them colonize fan leaves first and have never let them get too bad to where they go to buds. Seems as if they would go to buds as a last resort of food and not ideal place for them to lay eggs.
guappy17
Member
i have used them up to a week before harvest. as stated in the originating post...mix it up, use different products in rotation every time...keep them guessing. as for the no pest strips, i would only use them at night. plants respirate less during their dark photoperiod. remove the strip when the lights come one. this will most likely not kill all the pests but it will certainly knock down the population and help you keep them under control. focus on bringing in new pest free crops and having a clean garden. happy growing!
abudsmoker
Well-Known Member
i found no pest strips to be not effective in controling red and black spidermites
guappy17
Member
we only have two-spotted spider mites in my area. i believe that the different types of mites are more or less regional in their populations...are you in the midwest (ohio area)? i think they have red mites there.
everything i have heard about mites is that some stuff works for some people and not for others. experimentation is key. i personally am always looking for a good product to add to my arsenal. i keep those little bastards guessing as much as possible but never using the same attack twice. however, that all being said, floramite is consistently the best product i have found and has worked for everyone i have ever heard of using it.
I too have been dealing with my worst mite problem yet. Im not used to having mites outdoors as nature takes care of them, but with legal grows and being forced into a greenhouse things have changed.
Ive used mite-rid multiple times and it does a great job. Really knocks them back and kills, yet doesn't fully eradicate (says no worry about getting bottoms of leaves but i got bottoms and tops best i could). I used SNS-217 i believe the mite spray is called, and that too knocked them back more and killed a lot of the eggs, but again not all. I've now stripped the bottom 2.5-3' of the plants off and removed any badly damaged leaves, and put in 4 no shot pest strips in a 4x8x7 greenhouse.. Today i found dead beetles tweaking on the ground, but haven't had chance to look at the mites yet and see if they're dyeing.. I plan to look for any mite damaged leaves that i had left, and spray the bottoms with liquid lady bug
Ive used mite-rid multiple times and it does a great job. Really knocks them back and kills, yet doesn't fully eradicate (says no worry about getting bottoms of leaves but i got bottoms and tops best i could). I used SNS-217 i believe the mite spray is called, and that too knocked them back more and killed a lot of the eggs, but again not all. I've now stripped the bottom 2.5-3' of the plants off and removed any badly damaged leaves, and put in 4 no shot pest strips in a 4x8x7 greenhouse.. Today i found dead beetles tweaking on the ground, but haven't had chance to look at the mites yet and see if they're dyeing.. I plan to look for any mite damaged leaves that i had left, and spray the bottoms with liquid lady bug
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Tetrasan, Avid, Floramite. Systemic miticides are a must for any serious grower. Add them into a smart IPM (Integrated Pest Management) plan and you will not see mites. In vegetative states plants can be safely treated with systemics. Rotate miticides every spray interval (range from 30-60days depending on pest load). In flower plants can be treated with more mild biological based products such as Azatin (Azadiatrin) or Conserve SC (Spinosad). Both of these are approved up to the day of harvest, leave no residue or taste. If your garden is perpetual it becomes harder to manage for pests. I recommend doing 'runs' and then cleaning out your flower room before bringing in the next round.
Evironmental controls also work well, keep the area around your grow clean. Clean up debris in your yard where mites overwinter. Don't allow pets in and most importantly don't take plants from someone else's garden without a quarantine period and treatment with a miticide.
Evironmental controls also work well, keep the area around your grow clean. Clean up debris in your yard where mites overwinter. Don't allow pets in and most importantly don't take plants from someone else's garden without a quarantine period and treatment with a miticide.
RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
Ehhem.. .Let me chime in here and direct you to the solution ->> https://www.rollitup.org/bugs/456635-spidermite-death-100-newproduct.html
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Don't fall for marketing, I want to kill mites not scare them off or make them smell good. Mites are tenacious and in a large garden can quickly destroy thousands of dollars worth of hard earned product. Have a plan in place before you get mites. And an effective spray plan. The only hydro store product I would endorse for this purpose would be azadiatrin.
RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
What are you talking about. Mighty Wash is better than every other poison you have listed ^_^ your loss bro I am just here to help, one day you will use it & never look back. You're obviously behind the times, So Cal Vet growers here don't use anything else. Enjoy your poison.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
What socal 'vet' growers would those be? Azadiatrin and spinosad both have little to no toxic effects on humans or animals. Miticides can be sprayed in a safe responsible manner. Give me the science and botany behind your mighty wash and I would be happy to examine it further.
I certainly apreciate effective mite control and know from experience that there is a ton of crap on the market.
I certainly apreciate effective mite control and know from experience that there is a ton of crap on the market.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Yeah static electricity will not kill mites man. You need long term control NOT knockdown when it comes to
mites. If you are waiting till you have an infestation you are simply not a 'vet' grower or very professional.
Mites are very small, mobile and breed VERY fast. Contact treatments are ineffective because you can't guarantee even coverage or track down all the little buggers. Why do I use an IPM plan because it works, is safe, and my product has never tested positive for ANY 'poison' residue.
mites. If you are waiting till you have an infestation you are simply not a 'vet' grower or very professional.
Mites are very small, mobile and breed VERY fast. Contact treatments are ineffective because you can't guarantee even coverage or track down all the little buggers. Why do I use an IPM plan because it works, is safe, and my product has never tested positive for ANY 'poison' residue.
RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
The majority of So Cal growers man, we have Grow warehouses with everything you could need to grow, you meet some Vets in their buddy.. Trust me when I say true connoisseurs frown upon the poisons you're used to using.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Don't be fooled by snake oil salemen! This industry is full of it. I encourage people to do research and demand facts from product manufacturers. And for gods sake do not spray poison! Instead use all the proper safety precautions, institute environmental controls, and follow re-entry guidelines for 'caution' or 'warning' labeled products. Use minimal mixing rates and diversify your control methods to prevent resistance in mite populations. These are not controlled products on most states. The claims of poison! Are ways for marketeer to scare you away from a product that is quite safe if used responsibly. If you have ever purchased plants from a nursery they use these products, peaches are sprayed with accramite (floramite). Nobody is dying as a result. Using the product at te proper time allows ample time for the miticide to break down. The application rates of these products is VERY low!
So let's re-examine: products proven 'food safe', there is no measurable residue from any of these products when used properly, and Scientifically PROVEN to be effective! What's the downside? If you are mixing high doses not following application guidelines and creating resistant populations it is unhealthy and irresponsible. If that is the case then by all means pick up a jug of mighty wash and drink it!
So let's re-examine: products proven 'food safe', there is no measurable residue from any of these products when used properly, and Scientifically PROVEN to be effective! What's the downside? If you are mixing high doses not following application guidelines and creating resistant populations it is unhealthy and irresponsible. If that is the case then by all means pick up a jug of mighty wash and drink it!
RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
I think you're just mad you made this thread thinking "ooh ooh, ill make a useful thread". But then Big Bad Raw comes along and "Shuts Shyt Downnnnn" as usual with good info, by giving your thread its long awaited answer on the 14th page.. Now that you have nothing to discuss you are understandably upset.
RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
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