starting small to see whats hapnin
- Thread starter paperfetti
- Start date
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
well pretty slow right now just waiting for my cuttings to root..a few rooted but not most,so will let sit till there ready..i still havent figured if i wanna put my air ducts out my window to cool light or to just cut 2 holes in basement ceiling..i wanna cut holes in ceiling,but still not sure...oh well i have to come to a decision by tomm. cuz i wanna have things up and running to make sure temps are good
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
ok,heres the latest....
my cuttings have a nice root structure going (that EZ-CLONER is fuckn amazing!!),but my thing is...i want to go right into flowering,now i know wants you start that then only expect for the main cola to produce bud (min. 1 OZ. PER PLANT)..now i was just wondering..they say if u wantto get more than a min of an oz then u should vegg. clones for at least a week...my question is..is it ok to vegg plants in ez cloner rather than moving them to the bubbler for 1 week?..i was gone let cutting stay in cloner for an xtra week or so..would this be ok as far as some form of vegg time for cuttings??
my cuttings have a nice root structure going (that EZ-CLONER is fuckn amazing!!),but my thing is...i want to go right into flowering,now i know wants you start that then only expect for the main cola to produce bud (min. 1 OZ. PER PLANT)..now i was just wondering..they say if u wantto get more than a min of an oz then u should vegg. clones for at least a week...my question is..is it ok to vegg plants in ez cloner rather than moving them to the bubbler for 1 week?..i was gone let cutting stay in cloner for an xtra week or so..would this be ok as far as some form of vegg time for cuttings??
Attachments
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
You can vegg in the ez cloner, but the roots will tangle... are you a zen master?
Can you show a picture of your clones... how big are they?
the ones I could see look like they are very small, I have flowered very small clones and I say that they will yield relative to their size... the smaller the plant, the smaller the yield...
to get 1 oz per clone straight from rooting, you need to root some pretty big clones... which is totally doable, but if you start with 4" plants, you will need to vegg longer than a week....
Can you show a picture of your clones... how big are they?
the ones I could see look like they are very small, I have flowered very small clones and I say that they will yield relative to their size... the smaller the plant, the smaller the yield...
to get 1 oz per clone straight from rooting, you need to root some pretty big clones... which is totally doable, but if you start with 4" plants, you will need to vegg longer than a week....
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
lol...zen master?..cuttings are all different sizes..the main cutting (topped cutting) took longer to root than smaller ones,but once it took off it was crazy!!..so here what im thinking..ill start taking cutting all the same lenght and ill let them vegg in ez cloner and try and keep them from getting tangled too bad,but once they go into flower what can i do to stop them from vegging the nxt 2 weeks?..i was researching this product called bushmaster..i was thinking of getting this and a stacker like gravity by the same people (humblots own)..looking at my setup im going to have to have something to cut out that 2 week vegg time,cause im going to have some serious height issues
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
I would suggest LST or supercropping... they will double in size from the time you flower them... plan ahead...
Best of Luck...
growinman
Well-Known Member
....I would think you can veg nicely in that thing IF you can add some veg and micro nute(your kids are already yellowing and getting hungry from the looks).... but like GypsyBush said your going to be un-tangleing roots(zen master). But I will say this: those roots from the aerocloner are a lot more stout looking that mine when they come out of my bubble cloner, so they may be reasonably easy to untangle.
Along with LSTing you might try topping them once or twice, depending on how that strain will stretch in 12/12.......and I find that mine in an AeroFlo more than double in height.......how much height you got to work with?
Along with LSTing you might try topping them once or twice, depending on how that strain will stretch in 12/12.......and I find that mine in an AeroFlo more than double in height.......how much height you got to work with?
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
lmao..zen master...i will measure exactly how much i will have to play with,but im lookin at maybe a foot to work with btwn lights and tops,but im going to buy that bushmaster and gravity to make the best of a sog setup..bushmaser will completely stop vertical grow and gravity will pack on the weight and shorten the internode spacing (if im making sense)..another thing...as you can see im tryna open a small mom & pop type bizz. nothing major,but the little bud delivery guys around these parts are lame..im gonna start my own delivery service (if you will).my question is..when people use ebb & flow setups..is it possible to have 3 diff. strains going at once...for instance,im gonna run MY choice of the top 3 strains (AK-47,WHITE WIDOW & JACK HERRER),now i hear its best to run with ONE OR MAYBE TWO strains dealing with an ebb n flo setup because some strains require more attention than the other,so my question is there a way to find which strains are identical to each others grow??..like if 2 strains met the same height criteria is it safe to say that the will do ok running 1 reservoir solution?..now the jack is my 1st choice but my last to actual make the cut because of its low yeilding threads ive read on it so still looking to find that 3rd high yeilding fire power strain that will be apart of this mom & pop store forever..was thinking some type of blueberry but ive read that its such an ez grow that im worried that growing with something sick as "AK or WIDOW" it wont get the attention its gonna need..these are just newbie couchlock thoughts no serious inquries required,but are appreciated
BTW...YEAH! whats up with the yellowing of the fan leaves???...the ones that are yellowing are the ones that have rooted very,very well...i dont get it
ANOTHER COUCH LOCK MOMENT....
about the diff. strains in ebb n flow..what if i foliar fed the difficult strains in tray with a serious serious foliar mixture?..i wonder if that will maintain its special conditions it will need i.e white widow grows better or stronger when conditions are well maintained at "X,Y,Z",so i will keep res. solution at a base level and foliar feed the white widow say maybe twice a day with this special mix..what do you think?
BTW...YEAH! whats up with the yellowing of the fan leaves???...the ones that are yellowing are the ones that have rooted very,very well...i dont get it
ANOTHER COUCH LOCK MOMENT....
about the diff. strains in ebb n flow..what if i foliar fed the difficult strains in tray with a serious serious foliar mixture?..i wonder if that will maintain its special conditions it will need i.e white widow grows better or stronger when conditions are well maintained at "X,Y,Z",so i will keep res. solution at a base level and foliar feed the white widow say maybe twice a day with this special mix..what do you think?
growinman
Well-Known Member
.......yes the clones will yellow when they get roots.......they now need grow nute(very little to start, like 1/4 of reccomended amount)......and I dont really think you want to add it to your cloner unless you have all the clones you want now...... Grow nute inhibits the start of root growth....... but you need to do something to get them nute...... and you wanted to veg in the cloner, right?
It is best to run each strain by itself when going hydro using a res. Unless you have very similar strain that finish real close time wise and will use the same nute mix the same way.......there are just too many variables. If you are able to get folliar feeding figured out well enough that may work. I cant really say because I haven't folliar fed other than misting clones. But I am in a similar situation as you are talking about. I have two strains that run very nice with each other and that helps. But I get around the majority of running different strains by running different systems/set-ups. I have one main harvest a month that will be mostly one strain(if not all) and then I run a couple of dwc buckets for retiring moms if they are special or if I have something new to experiment with. I usually run a new strain a few times with just a single plant in 12/12(and 1 in veg) until I figure out what makes it happy/sad and what the final product will be like. The last seeds I grew were from about 5 months ago- I just now have moms vegging finally so I can do a whole run of them in my AF. I only kept one of seven plants from the original seeds.
If you were running a top feed drip-to-waist set-up you could feed as you wish by adding whatever extra to whichever plant....but you'd want an absorbant medium.....
Something else to consider are your nutes...... The more basic you keep them the more versitile they are......Ie: GH 3 part Flora Series.<----might be the easiest most basic nutes available. You would have a better chance(IMO) getting different strains to grow with same res solution moreso than if you are mixing up some expensive "Blasts" and "Boosts" that some plants want/need(+ -) while at the same time will burn the hell out of another.
It is best to run each strain by itself when going hydro using a res. Unless you have very similar strain that finish real close time wise and will use the same nute mix the same way.......there are just too many variables. If you are able to get folliar feeding figured out well enough that may work. I cant really say because I haven't folliar fed other than misting clones. But I am in a similar situation as you are talking about. I have two strains that run very nice with each other and that helps. But I get around the majority of running different strains by running different systems/set-ups. I have one main harvest a month that will be mostly one strain(if not all) and then I run a couple of dwc buckets for retiring moms if they are special or if I have something new to experiment with. I usually run a new strain a few times with just a single plant in 12/12(and 1 in veg) until I figure out what makes it happy/sad and what the final product will be like. The last seeds I grew were from about 5 months ago- I just now have moms vegging finally so I can do a whole run of them in my AF. I only kept one of seven plants from the original seeds.
If you were running a top feed drip-to-waist set-up you could feed as you wish by adding whatever extra to whichever plant....but you'd want an absorbant medium.....
Something else to consider are your nutes...... The more basic you keep them the more versitile they are......Ie: GH 3 part Flora Series.<----might be the easiest most basic nutes available. You would have a better chance(IMO) getting different strains to grow with same res solution moreso than if you are mixing up some expensive "Blasts" and "Boosts" that some plants want/need(+ -) while at the same time will burn the hell out of another.
growinman
Well-Known Member
.........duh....... Excuse the rambling in the last post!
So to answer your question, imo, sure it's worth a chance! I think you know the right things to beware of and watch for.
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
yeah i think i do..i had to go and by a printer to print out all of these great post ive been reading/searching,which reminds me plus rep for you for just holding me down "ya digg?"..lol....awesome info. thanx
UPDATE:
transplanted the best 7 (PPP) clones (1/8/09) as some still looked like they can root alot better
-Temps in room were 85 max because when building the room,i overlooked the base board heating,but i will keep a close eye on everything from here on out..will probably put pics up tomm. as i will also be add ing 5-6 more cuttings
UPDATE:
transplanted the best 7 (PPP) clones (1/8/09) as some still looked like they can root alot better
-Temps in room were 85 max because when building the room,i overlooked the base board heating,but i will keep a close eye on everything from here on out..will probably put pics up tomm. as i will also be add ing 5-6 more cuttings
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
man-o-man..what a life!!...1st i had no computer in like forever,which was really killin me cause i couldnt play poker,long story i dont feel like getting into..so lets just get into it
pics are of PPP and new NL cuttings...dont know whats wrong if anything,because i dont see much new growth..im running nutes stc. at a lower rate than normal based on some research i did on here about keeping ph at like 5.1 (5.2 optimal) and ppm is running at like 500-600..as soon as i see new groth i will crank up the ppm's..not much to say been gone for some time so if there people still coming by here (which i doubt) im back andf will post pics tomm.
pics are of PPP and new NL cuttings...dont know whats wrong if anything,because i dont see much new growth..im running nutes stc. at a lower rate than normal based on some research i did on here about keeping ph at like 5.1 (5.2 optimal) and ppm is running at like 500-600..as soon as i see new groth i will crank up the ppm's..not much to say been gone for some time so if there people still coming by here (which i doubt) im back andf will post pics tomm.
growinman
Well-Known Member
......well, surely dont lock out the nutes altogether....and you will at a PH of 5.1. If your currently having any problems as it sounds; start by keeping in mind you want PH at 5.8-not 5.7 or 5.9(which would be okay) but you need to maintain 5.8 and not have large swings up and down. 5.1??????-->maybe for something specific to be absorbed(out of my league), but you only compound the problems-----it'll take on maybe too much of one nute creating lockout of another, vice-versa.....and the PH swings, if too wide, can create as many more problems, hermies, stunting, etc......
5.8......then worry about the nutes, ppm, h2o temps, etc...... You eliminate so many problems just from the PH.......
Oh....what pics??
Glad to see you back on man! This sh*t isn't sounding more complicated, is it? It's NOT! Get some pics up when you can....you still running the same nutes?
Hope all is well and safe!!
growinman
5.8......then worry about the nutes, ppm, h2o temps, etc...... You eliminate so many problems just from the PH.......
Oh....what pics??
Glad to see you back on man! This sh*t isn't sounding more complicated, is it? It's NOT! Get some pics up when you can....you still running the same nutes?
Hope all is well and safe!!
growinman
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
well i got this from the f.a.q's and thought id give it a shot and no big major growth changes in like 20+ days and im getting nervous because i wanted to be ready with at least something to start advertising...heres the post.....What ranges should I maintain for my hydroponic nutrients pH, TDS/EC and temperature?
What ranges should I maintain for my hydroponic nutrients pH, TDS/EC and temperature?
Added by: MisterIto Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 588 timesRated by 43 users: 8.77/10I follow and highly recommend the following parameters for hydroponic nutrient solutions for aeroponic, “bubblers”, drip, ebb and flow, NFT, passive, rockwool and wick systems.
PH 5.1-5.9 (5.2 optimal)
TDS 500-1000ppm, EC .75-1.5
Temperature 68-78f, 20-25c (75f, 24c optimal)
The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.1 and pH 5.9, then nutritional deficiency and/or toxicity problems can occur. For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.2 for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. These pH and TDS/EC recommendations may seem low relative to the normally suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from "Hydroponic Nutrients" by M. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and my experience has shown discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.2 over higher levels.
On page 100, Hydroponic Nutrients displays both the assimilation chart for organic soil applications and another for inert medium hydroponics, which depicts the vastly different scenarios. The widely accepted soil based chart is frequently misapplied to water culture applications. His research and that done by others, documented in Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient solutions at pH levels above 6. Stay below a pH of 6 by all means to avoid this problem and benefit.
The nutrient assimilation rate is further enhanced by the reduction in solution TDS/EC, which reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots to draw the nutrients "easier". Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The TDS is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, TDS is further raised to 1000-1100ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower TDS/EC when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates.
The optimum temperature for hydroponic solutions to be is 24c/75f. At this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric oxygen is most readily dissolved. Although increases in temperature increase the rate of photosynthesis, avoid exceeding the maximum listed of 25c/78f. Elevated temperatures make some elements more available, but reduce the solution's dissolved oxygen capacity, increasing root disease likelihood.
I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW IF THIS METHOD HAS WORKED OUT FOR SOMEONE OTHER THAN THE GUY WHO POSTED IT...ANYWAY,I GOT 1 EVEN WORST..I CALLED MY HYDRP STORE GUY AND HE SAID MAINTAIN SOLUTION AT A HIGHER RATE THAN I EVER HEARD OR READ!!...HE SAID 6.5!!!..IM LIKE WHOOAAA!..MY TAP WATER COMES OUT AT 6.8..THIS IOS WHY I END UP SOOOO CONFUSED,BECAUSE I REALLY NEED TO GET THAT SOG STYLE GROW TO WHERE I CAN GET AT LEAST AN OZ FROM EACH,BUT IT DOESNT LOOK THAT WAY..ANOTHER THING...WHEN I USE CRAPPY CAM. PHONE TO TAKE PICS...ITS LIKE I GET THESE "RADIATION LINES" GOING THROUGH THE PIC..CANT GET CLEAR SHOT UNLESS IM REALLY UP ON A PLANT AND AT THAT POINT U CANT SEE GARDEN..ILL TAKE A PIC SO U GET AN IDEA...AND THANX FOR STILL CHECKING IN FOR ME HOMEY
What ranges should I maintain for my hydroponic nutrients pH, TDS/EC and temperature?
Added by: MisterIto Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 588 timesRated by 43 users: 8.77/10I follow and highly recommend the following parameters for hydroponic nutrient solutions for aeroponic, “bubblers”, drip, ebb and flow, NFT, passive, rockwool and wick systems.
PH 5.1-5.9 (5.2 optimal)
TDS 500-1000ppm, EC .75-1.5
Temperature 68-78f, 20-25c (75f, 24c optimal)
The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.1 and pH 5.9, then nutritional deficiency and/or toxicity problems can occur. For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.2 for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. These pH and TDS/EC recommendations may seem low relative to the normally suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from "Hydroponic Nutrients" by M. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and my experience has shown discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.2 over higher levels.
On page 100, Hydroponic Nutrients displays both the assimilation chart for organic soil applications and another for inert medium hydroponics, which depicts the vastly different scenarios. The widely accepted soil based chart is frequently misapplied to water culture applications. His research and that done by others, documented in Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient solutions at pH levels above 6. Stay below a pH of 6 by all means to avoid this problem and benefit.
The nutrient assimilation rate is further enhanced by the reduction in solution TDS/EC, which reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots to draw the nutrients "easier". Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The TDS is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, TDS is further raised to 1000-1100ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower TDS/EC when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates.
The optimum temperature for hydroponic solutions to be is 24c/75f. At this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric oxygen is most readily dissolved. Although increases in temperature increase the rate of photosynthesis, avoid exceeding the maximum listed of 25c/78f. Elevated temperatures make some elements more available, but reduce the solution's dissolved oxygen capacity, increasing root disease likelihood.
I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW IF THIS METHOD HAS WORKED OUT FOR SOMEONE OTHER THAN THE GUY WHO POSTED IT...ANYWAY,I GOT 1 EVEN WORST..I CALLED MY HYDRP STORE GUY AND HE SAID MAINTAIN SOLUTION AT A HIGHER RATE THAN I EVER HEARD OR READ!!...HE SAID 6.5!!!..IM LIKE WHOOAAA!..MY TAP WATER COMES OUT AT 6.8..THIS IOS WHY I END UP SOOOO CONFUSED,BECAUSE I REALLY NEED TO GET THAT SOG STYLE GROW TO WHERE I CAN GET AT LEAST AN OZ FROM EACH,BUT IT DOESNT LOOK THAT WAY..ANOTHER THING...WHEN I USE CRAPPY CAM. PHONE TO TAKE PICS...ITS LIKE I GET THESE "RADIATION LINES" GOING THROUGH THE PIC..CANT GET CLEAR SHOT UNLESS IM REALLY UP ON A PLANT AND AT THAT POINT U CANT SEE GARDEN..ILL TAKE A PIC SO U GET AN IDEA...AND THANX FOR STILL CHECKING IN FOR ME HOMEY
DKskater75
Well-Known Member
NO POKER?!?! ON NOOO!!!!! i dont know what id do haha. uhhh sorry to say man it sounds like the dude at your hydro store is an idiot. ive never heard of having your ph that high for hydro. it should be around 5.5 not 6.5! oh and try turning off some lights before you take pics. my hps really fucks with pics.
paperfetti
Well-Known Member
DK!!!,my A-ALIKE..how you been man?..hows the tables been treating you??..and hows buisness? (if you get my drift),but yea my hydro man is really retarded..my thing is..im going to have 3 diff. strains in there and im trying to find a range that will suit all strains..where should i be maintaining ppm's at for plants thats 20+ days old? im running at 5-600 ppm..doesnt seem strong enough cause the VERY tip of leaves are starting to turn in color
P.S. TOOK THE BEST PICS I CAN..SORRY
P.S. TOOK THE BEST PICS I CAN..SORRY
Attachments
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
Hey dude.. long time no see...
I was just reading... I keep my PPM at 1400 for ALL of my floewring plants on EBB/FLOW...
You guys should take a peek at this thread...
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/109497-sog-growers-wanted-61.html#post2060866
Lots of good EBB/FLOW Fuct style talk there..
Cheers...
I was just reading... I keep my PPM at 1400 for ALL of my floewring plants on EBB/FLOW...
You guys should take a peek at this thread...
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/109497-sog-growers-wanted-61.html#post2060866
Lots of good EBB/FLOW Fuct style talk there..
Cheers...
DKskater75
Well-Known Member
sweet that looks good, im still tryin to get my ebb n flow up n runnin haha. got half soil on the other side right now 2 weeks into flower, ill try to get some new pics up laterrr 
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
Dude.. don't mind Spark... he is... special....
Just ignore them (bugs too) because there is a lot of good info there... or better yet, there are some really knowledgeable people there...
I felt bad... but just get over it and ask your questions...
I know I'll always reply.... and the will too... they are just weird like that...
Anyways...
Cheers bro..!
Oh! almost forgot... ... click on the red square for my latest update...
Just ignore them (bugs too) because there is a lot of good info there... or better yet, there are some really knowledgeable people there...
I felt bad... but just get over it and ask your questions...
I know I'll always reply.... and the will too... they are just weird like that...
Anyways...
Cheers bro..!
Oh! almost forgot... ... click on the red square for my latest update...