Tap Water suitable for plants in minutes!

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Using anything that isn't intended for human consumption is a risk, especially with cannabis, as it is known as a "cleaner". It will absorb and store unwanted chemicals, heavy metals, etc. Hemp is being planted in Chernobyl to clean radiation from the soil, those plants are highly toxic.

Many, but not all, aquarium products are mixed differently than horticultural product because of the environments they are used in, fish tanks usually have a salt content, even fresh water, which we don't deal with, along with wildly different chemical compositions ( or nutrients).

As long as your tap is consistently under a .2EC and doesn't have chloramine in it, there's no reason it can't be used straight, just need to tailor your nute regime around it.The order and speed you add nutrients can effect precipitation. i wait 1-2 mins between one nute and the next going into a batch to make sure the last one has completely mixed and stabilized. Base, then Cal Mag, any other additive..silica products last after diluting with base water. I ran tap for well over a year with no issues until my town started doing water main work..i had to go RO then.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
silica products last after diluting with base water.
i use the DG pro-tekt and it says to add Si first or else it will precipitate. you don't run into any issues adding it last?

but i do the same. pool shock first, 10 mins later silica, 10 mins later, base A and finally base B.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I've heard either first or last.

My tap is. 2ec and I'm pretty sure it has Chloramine but I don't have any major problems. I don't use chillers and my water temps get up to 75 but I havnt noticed any root issues
i use RO but add chlorine. my hempy buckets get up to grow room temps (high 70's) and i haven't had any root rot since i went to a sterilie res.
 

ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
i use RO but add chlorine. my hempy buckets get up to grow room temps (high 70's) and i haven't had any root rot since i went to a sterilie res.
yea i use hydroguard. might try pool shock next. i run botanicare. like it in flower, but its slow in veg. i run flood tables and a gro flo system
 

ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
definitely give the HTH a shot. i use 0.45 grams per 15 gallons. a one pound bag will last me a decade if not more.

i just use GH flora duo.
botanicare is a little salty too and i have to run it at like 1/4-1/2 max.

im at 1.2 ec in week 3 flower and im using a 55gal res. but i measure out 1/2 strength
 

jarvild

Well-Known Member
botanicare is a little salty too and i have to run it at like 1/4-1/2 max.

im at 1.2 ec in week 3 flower and im using a 55gal res. but i measure out 1/2 strength
That the nice thing about RO, I rarely have to run more than 1.2 ec or 600 ppm with my hydroponic nute's .
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
just putting it out there so everybody can make their own opinion.
i actually add chlorine to my RO to keep a sterile res.
to each his own.
If you are implying that you ADD chlorine thru your r.o. device, that's not recommended as it eats the film in the $75 filter and they go bad quicker. I believe they actually state not to use chlorinated water thru the devices, although I have for many years.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
If you are implying that you ADD chlorine thru your r.o. device, that's not recommended as it eats the film in the $75 filter and they go bad quicker. I believe they actually state not to use chlorinated water thru the devices, although I have for many years.
Pretty sure that's why the units have a charcoal prefilter or yup it destroys the membrane real fast :( but I think he's talking after water had been filtered.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
If you are implying that you ADD chlorine thru your r.o. device, that's not recommended as it eats the film in the $75 filter and they go bad quicker. I believe they actually state not to use chlorinated water thru the devices, although I have for many years.
nope. i add chlorine to my RO.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
i use the DG pro-tekt and it says to add Si first or else it will precipitate. you don't run into any issues adding it last?

but i do the same. pool shock first, 10 mins later silica, 10 mins later, base A and finally base B.
I did initially, it would cloud out and settle. I found somewhere that said to mix the Si with straight RO at a min of a 1:1 ratio, then add it to the res. Been fine since i started doing that. I also have a small pump i throw in my res's when I'm doing changes so it's always mixing as I'm adding water and nutes, nothing has a chance to stay too concentrated and interact oddly or settle.
 

slinkysaurus

Well-Known Member
Okay I've done a few tests today.
Filled 2 tanks from the tap.
EC - non existent.
PH - 7.1

TANK 1 bubbling away the traditional way
TANK 2 bubbling and added my "bond breaker" (I'm not going to promote tetra as I'm sure there are other brands)

Instant results;
TANK 1 - no change
TANK 2 - EC 0
PH 5.8-6.2


I'll post my tank 1 results in 24 hours after its bubbled some more.

I also did a half empty/fill of my system with tap water last night (poor manoflded/mainliners are getting some root abuse) The results were a massive PH flux this morning. Just as I expected, as the PH changes as it bubbles for the 24 hours prior to being used.


WeedFreak, Might I also add that the conditioner BREAKS THE BONDS OF CHLORINES AND METALS. They become obsolete. Once the bond is broken they can evaporate.

There's a case online of some who drank a large amount of this water as it was being treated. They got the shits.

It's non toxic.
Marine life is more susceptible to toxicification than anything else on this planet. It's not Chernobyl, it's just water science :)
 
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SSHZ

Well-Known Member
CHLORINE (CL) TOXICITY IN MARIJUANA PLANTS
Common symptoms of chlorine toxicity include a bronze or yellow color to the leaves, splitting of the marijuana leaves, burnt tips or leaf margins, a decrease in leaf size and a slower rate of growth for the marijuana plant.
 
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